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Discussion Starter #1
I've been looking at mdrake's Mal-X horn specs, and wondering how I could fold the 96" long part into 48" or less. My goal dimensions are 48" long (half the 96"), 40" tall (twice as tall as before folding), and 16" deep (I think that was how deep it is.). Is there a way that you can fold a 96"x20"x16" into 48"x40"x16"?

Can someone do/demonstrate how to fold it like that? I've tried many times, but I haven't been able to get it right yet.
 

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I would post it for you but it is at home on my laptop. :) Here is the hornresp.
 

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Without looking too hard at this, I think you might be able to do ~48" x 20" x ~32". This is based on my assumption that the speaker is an 18" driver that needs to go against the 20" surface.

The folding might get a little tricky, but not too difficult.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Without looking too hard at this, I think you might be able to do ~48" x 20" x ~32". This is based on my assumption that the speaker is an 18" driver that needs to go against the 20" surface.

The folding might get a little tricky, but not too difficult.

Paul
Would it have to be 48"x20"x32"? Or could the last dimension (the depth) be kept at 16" and the heigth be bumped up to 40" instead of 20"?
And yes it is an 18" driver that mounts on the 20" surface.
 

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My understanding and I could be wrong is the key areas to look at are the S1, S2, S3, and S4, as well as the line length. From my understanding the S1, S2, S3, and S4 are in area measurements hence the 400 is 10 x 40 so 400 sq centimeters. So, I believe you have to keep those numbers correct and then fold the line length.

Hornresp for me is even harder because I am used to inches not centimeters. :scratch:

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My understanding and I could be wrong is the key areas to look at are the S1, S2, S3, and S4, as well as the line length. From my understanding the S1, S2, S3, and S4 are in area measurements hence the 400 is 10 x 40 so 400 sq centimeters. So, I believe you have to keep those numbers correct and then fold the line length.

Hornresp for me is even harder because I am used to inches not centimeters. :scratch:

Matt
That's what I'm not understanding; how to fold it and keep the horn effectively the same as if it wasn't folded. Horns are a lot harder to understand than traditional boxes :D
 

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That's what I'm not understanding; how to fold it and keep the horn effectively the same as if it wasn't folded. Horns are a lot harder to understand than traditional boxes :D
Amen!!!!!! They are much more complex.

Here is the inside of a tapped horn. See the way they folded the end? That is basically what we have to do is fold the end up like an accordion. Let me look at this during my lunch hour, this gives me an idea.

 

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tapped horns remind me of a weird mix of a 6th order band pass with a transmission line and horn opening instead of ports
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Amen!!!!!! They are much more complex.

Here is the inside of a tapped horn. See the way they folded the end? That is basically what we have to do is fold the end up like an accordion. Let me look at this during my lunch hour, this gives me an idea.

Matt, if needed, I can make the box up to ~50" tall, 20" wide, and 16" deep. I can also increase the depth to ~40" if that helps any.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
My apologies for changing the dimensions that I had stated in the first post. Basically, as long as either the width or depth is kept below 20", I can just change the orientation of the horn in my room to accommodate it. So like I can do ~50" high, 20" wide ( up to 48" if the depth is kept below or at 20"), and if the width is kept at 20", the depth can be up to 48".

Does that make any sense?? :D
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Amen!!!!!! They are much more complex.

Here is the inside of a tapped horn. See the way they folded the end? That is basically what we have to do is fold the end up like an accordion. Let me look at this during my lunch hour, this gives me an idea.

Were you able to think of anything Matt? Sorry for asking, I'm just wanting to get this built when I can because I'm very busy with school.
 

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This is a Very interesting thread, I have a Mal-X 18" that's not being used right now so this could be it's new home:hsd:
 

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I think you'll beat me to it, I am still a few weeks away from completing another build before I can start a new one.

Looking at the dimensions I would have to buy new tools or build a panel saw. Wait a minute, didn't the drawing change or is Matt still working on the #'s?

Thanks for taking the time Matt and thanks for the idea Dylan.
 

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Dude, I am trying but it is next to impossible. Still trying but my brain hurts.

Matt
 
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