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Discussion Starter #1
So this thread is going to chronicle my "MartyCube" build. The "Marty" style box is fairly popular on AVSForum with about 4 different variations (see links/info at bottom below)

I am going with the "MartyCube" which is basically a 2x2x2 box that after subtracting bracing and ports measures in at 4.75 cubic feet.

I am using a Stereo Integrity D2 b-stock woofer (yes they still have some of these left) that is on the way to me.

This woofer measures similarly to the 18" Dayton 460HO, enough so that its a cheaper substitute for me.

I will be using a Dayton SA1000 amp instead of the iNuke 3000 DSP. Mainly because there are some used models of this amp out and about, and by saving a couple bucks here I can get a MiniDSP & UMIK-1 mic with the savings from the amp and driver.

I will be updating this as I go along, but it will be a bit as my buddy thats helping me build the box is booked solid with work and other engagements till the beginning of June.

However I figured you guys here might appreciate the "Martycube" and all its info so I thought I would start my build thread here.

Some Martycube info found at the link below:

Graphs, pics and WinISD graphs

4 different varieties (with 3 diff names) of box style

1) Full Marty 2' by 2' by 4' ~ 17hz tuning in 11cuft box
2a) MiniMarty 2' by 30" by 36" ~17hz tuning in 10cuft box
2b) MiniMarty 2' by 2' by 40" ~17hz tuning in 9cuft box
3) Martycube 2' by 2',by 2' ~20hz tuning in 5 cuft box
 

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So this thread is going to chronicle my "MartyCube" build. The "Marty" style box is fairly popular on AVSForum with about 4 different variations (see links/info at bottom below)

I am going with the "MartyCube" which is basically a 2x2x2 box that after subtracting bracing and ports measures in at 4.75 cubic feet.

I am using a Stereo Integrity D2 b-stock woofer (yes they still have some of these left) that is on the way to me.

This woofer measures similarly to the 18" Dayton 460HO, enough so that its a cheaper substitute for me.

I will be using a Dayton SA1000 amp instead of the iNuke 3000 DSP. Mainly because there are some used models of this amp out and about, and by saving a couple bucks here I can get a MiniDSP & UMIK-1 mic with the savings from the amp and driver.

I will be updating this as I go along, but it will be a bit as my buddy thats helping me build the box is booked solid with work and other engagements till the beginning of June.

However I figured you guys here might appreciate the "Martycube" and all its info so I thought I would start my build thread here.

Some Martycube info found at the link below:

Graphs, pics and WinISD graphs

4 different varieties (with 3 diff names) of box style

1) Full Marty 2' by 2' by 4' ~ 17hz tuning in 11cuft box
2a) MiniMarty 2' by 30" by 36" ~17hz tuning in 10cuft box
2b) MiniMarty 2' by 2' by 40" ~17hz tuning in 9cuft box
3) Martycube 2' by 2',by 2' ~20hz tuning in 5 cuft box



What about a MARTY TUBE???
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What about a MARTY TUBE???
The height needed is a killer. That and I think if it was something like a SVS sized tube (16" diameter) I might be able to get away with it, but given the size I need (closer to 18" I would guess) and the height its just not super possible.

I like Sonotubes personally and think they are pretty cool, I just cant see my wife liking something that is that big (height wise) as its MUCH more visible and visually demanding than the squareish box I will be building (which I may let her use to put pictures on, etc).
 

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The height needed is a killer. That and I think if it was something like a SVS sized tube (16" diameter) I might be able to get away with it, but given the size I need (closer to 18" I would guess) and the height its just not super possible.

I like Sonotubes personally and think they are pretty cool, I just cant see my wife liking something that is that big (height wise) as its MUCH more visible and visually demanding than the squareish box I will be building (which I may let her use to put pictures on, etc).
I was thinking of like a 18" or 20" tube that a guy could get locally, and you made all the rest to finish it. Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was thinking of like a 18" or 20" tube that a guy could get locally, and you made all the rest to finish it. Just a thought.
No worries mate, I do sincerely appreciate the suggestion. I have kinda run this idea (for my application) into the ground for quite some time (in other threads here and elsewhere) and it seems like the box while more expensive is more WAF friendly for me.

Others may find a Marty-Tube a better option.

I may build one in my 2 channel room just for giggles someday....
 

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However I figured you guys here might appreciate the "Martycube" and all its info so I thought I would start my build thread here.
Definitely will appreciate info. I'm considering doing my first DIY sub and this is high on the list. Looking forward to your updates. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Definitely will appreciate info. I'm considering doing my first DIY sub and this is high on the list. Looking forward to your updates. :)
Be glad to share as I go, but I am FAR from an expert and on AVSForum there are TONS of example build threads that you might find MUCH more informative than mine in he meantime.

If you click on the link in the first post its to a thread about the MartyCube Flatpacks...
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
So you will be going with 5 cu.ft. tuned to 20 hz?
Yup. Its actually a 2x2x2 box with a slotted port that starts about 3/4 the way up the backside and continues on to the front of the box. I have a WinISD file using the Dayton Driver that I used to model the Stereo Integrity D2 in and it models decently close. After subtracting the bracing and port it ends up being 4.7 cubic feet.

Lots of info here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1529375/martysub-flatpacks-veneer-speaker-stands
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I should rephrase... I was sent a project file that used the Dayton 18" 460HO driver, but had the specific box size, port dimensions and EQ/filters applied to it that I needed.

I created a new project with the SI D2 file off this site but then applied those same filters and EQ to the WinISD model so I was seeing a true A/B of the two different drivers in the exact same box, with the same filters, wattage, port sizes, etc...

That make a bit more sense :).
 

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I see. Are the B stock much of a savings? I didn't know those we're available. I just received two 15D4s yesterday.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I see. Are the B stock much of a savings? I didn't know those we're available. I just received two 15D4s yesterday.
They are cheaper than the D4's (dont want to advertize by how much). I would contact Stereo Integrity if you wanted to know more on price.

For me it was more about the ohm requirement. I wanted a 4 ohm load and the D4's only are a 2 ohm or 8 ohm load.

The amp I am using (Dayton SA-1000) isnt rated for a 2 ohm load, and at 8 ohms you only get 497 watts and I would prefer to max out the possible wattage.
 

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Awesome. I cut my mdf today, so I'll be a'gluing this weekend. I'll be running two D4s off of one channel of my Behringer EPQ2000 at 4 Ohms and 2 SVS 12s off the other channel.

I'll be watching your thread with interest since we're building at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Awesome. I cut my mdf today, so I'll be a'gluing this weekend. I'll be running two D4s off of one channel of my Behringer EPQ2000 at 4 Ohms and 2 SVS 12s off the other channel.

I'll be watching your thread with interest since we're building at the same time.
Your a month ahead of me lol......

My buddy just discovered he knows someone with a CNC machine.... Life just got LOTS easier for both of us hehehe.......
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update

Today was "delivery" day for a couple nice little pieces of gear...

Up first was my All the way from Hong Kong delivery..










I paid for it on May 6th, May 7th I got my order number and tracking, website says on May 8th it left Hong Kong and arrived in the US on May 9th. Got it today. Not too bad.​

Second was my Stereo Integrity Delivery.

I have to say, its by far one of the BEST packed boxes I have gotten. This is how a driver should be shipped.

Outer box



Double Boxed & to boot surrounded by a custom fit styrofoam casing. This I like!



Bare Driver:



Driver with a 12oz Soda can for comparison



First impressions.

1. This thing is moo HEAVY! Its got to weigh at least 30 lbs by itself!
2. This thing is moo HUGE!. You dont really realize how big a 15" woofer is until you actually have it in your hands.
3. Build quality looks phenomenal. I cant wait to get it home to get some more light on it.​

So I know what I will be doing this weekend... some REW sweeps of my existing setup trying to see if my Left & Right placement is correct. Then onto testing my driver with my amp to make sure its all working right.
 

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I too was impressed with the packaging.

1. It weighs 35 lbs.
2. It measures 15.5 inches from edge to edge.
3. It looks great in the ambience of your listening room.

Ha!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So I got the opportunity to BRIEFLY test out the sub (free air) with the Dayton amp hooked up to my HTC One. Threw on Breakin a Sweat by Skrillex.....

I WISH I HAD WOOD FLOORS DOWNSTAIRS.

Just face up with the gain at maybe 5 and my phone volume barely turned up 50%, the floor was doing WAVES :) :D... My wife yelled up "Are you trying to Wake up Skye" which means she felt the vibrations through the ceiling hehehe....

This is gonna be FUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So slightly off topic, but not, I had a LITTLE bit of time today to play with my MiniDSP and UMIK-1 mic and REW.

So I decided it would be good if I had some before graphs and after graphs. So here is what I got....

I already know I am going to have some issues until I get my DIY sub built. The Crossover frequencies are a bit messed up but here are the best two graphs I have. Here is how I obtained the EQ for this system.

1. Connect the LFE to Input 1 on the MiniDSP.
2. Connect sub LFE to Output 1 on MiniDSP.
3. Connect MiniDSP to USB on laptop
4. Place UMIK-1 MIC in Main listening position
5. Connect UMIK-1 MIC to laptop
6. Connect Laptop via HDMI to AVR
7. Set AVR to HDMI input from Laptop
8. Set AVR to Stereo (which is both mains and sub for me)
9. Turn off amp
10. Run REW measurements which will measure the SUB ONLY
11. Use REW EQ settings to create EQ Filter files for MiniDSP software
12. Import REW file into MiniDSP program on Output 1
13. Sync file to MiniDSP
14. Turn amp back on
15. Run EQ again for entire system with Audyssey engaged.
16. Save out file
17. Repeat to tweak sub or main crossovers, remeasure after each tweak

**Note**
I also went into my AVR and turned Audyssey EQ off and ran a measurement of both my mains and sub combined, then back on. The differences we so minuscule I just left it on. If I had more time to devote to things, I would turn it off, get my decent measurements, EQ my sub then run Audyssey to help correct what remained... but my time is EXTREMELY limited right now and I am just starting out...

Also keep in mind 2EQ doesnt apply any filters to the sub at all, so I can leave Audyssey on when EQ'ing the sub as it has no effect. Other Audyssey EQ's are different and require additional steps..
**End Note**

So here are my initial results.

Note the MASSIVE dip in this graph between 40-50 hz compared to the rest.... Also this is on my Carver AV-705x because my M1.0t took a today... cant wait to be using a single newer AVR with power included... so much simpler.....




So I said, well I cant cross my mains at LOWER than 40 hz, so lets try full range.... Then look at the BUMP I got in that range lol...



Any other crossover than 40hz resulted in a larger canyon between 40 hz and whatever crossover I set. I moved my sub over a bit and it did not clear up the issue.
 
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