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MFW 15 sub help (amp died)

6163 Views 24 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  theJman
My MFW-15 sub amp died. I tried to fix the amp & it didn't work. I am looking for a cost effective way to get the sub working again. I see there is a turbo kit (upgraded amp & driver for $800) but that is way to much for me.

I was thinking of getting the inuke 1000 dsp amp. Should I upgrade the driver too? I could probably get both for $400 of just the amp for $200.

What i have found on the internet about the stock sub
- is about 3 cubic feet internal (net). I am not sure about this though. The outside measurements are 22" * 24" * 18" and it has a slot port.
- stock amp was 350W RMS
- stock driver is 4 ohms

What other info do you guys need to help me out? Any suggestion for me on the amp & driver?

THANKS!
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If you are happy with the sub then just replace the amp with the inuke. To replace the driver as well would require finding one that would be happy in the enclosure you already have.
You want to triple the power yet use the same driver? My guess is that would end badly, so you might want to reconsider it. Unless you're very judicious with the volume knob I don't imagine the driver will last too long under those circumstances.

Having heard the Turbo upgrade myself -- one of them is sitting not 5 feet from me as I type this -- I can attest to what it's capable of, so if you like the MFW cabinet the upgrade is certainly worth a second look.
Thanks Jman, I assumed (rightly or wrongly) that the user would be aware of the fact that the amp was a lot larger than the original and they would limit the level to what they had previously used.
However, I still believe it is an acceptable solution since it then allows an upgrade path in the future, when funds permit, to replace the sub and/or enclosure to ones more suited to the amp.

I guess if they upgraded now they could offer the old driver for sale in our classified section. :cool:
Thanks for the replies.

The Jman - The Inuke Amp says it has triple the watts of my original sub. But, the inuke amp is rated at peak watts where the original amp is RMS watts. I think the Inuke RMS watts would be close to the original sub amp???

Robbo - you are correct. And I have no idea how to match a new potential driver to my original box. I also don't know how important that is.

Jman - in regards to the turbo. If I had the money I would consider it or one of the new HSU 15 inch subs (VTF 15H MK2 of VTF3 MK2). The specs on the new HSU's look impressive!

Any other suggestions or advice for me?
Thanks Jman, I assumed (rightly or wrongly) that the user would be aware of the fact that the amp was a lot larger than the original and they would limit the level to what they had previously used.
Probably few would be able to exercise such restrain. Drop a blown Hemi into a Hyundai and what's the first thing most of us (myself included) would do? Floor it! :D
Any other suggestions or advice for me?
What's your budget? That will strongly influence the direction you can go in.
I guess my budget is to get the best bang for my buck. The Inuke 1000 dsp $200 amp will get my sub working again. If there was an amazing driver (that worked with my enclosure) for around $200 I would get it.

I don't really really want to spend $800 on the turbo.

I am new to DIY. I have been reading LOTS about but there is so much to learn to DIY a subwoofer. It is confusing.
Honestly when building a subwoofer the least expensive part is usually the enclosure. If you buy an amp (Inuke 1000 dsp will have watt limiter which is usefull) it might be worth it. But if you are looking at a 800$ turbo upgrade you might just go the DIY way and scrap what you have get an Inuke 1000 and a SI HT18 and go sealed or ported. Then sell your damaged subwoofer at a low price. You will get a great subwoofer for less than the turbo kit.
It seems like the SI HT 15 would be a good drop in driver, but I'm not sure if they are available anymore. If you can find one, that would be a good match for the inuke.

See this old thread I found, where Mike P discusses a similar situation: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/ported-subwoofer-build-projects/71165-av123-mfw-15-help.html
Steeve-O,

Its not the price of the enclosure that bugs me. Its the time to make it! Plus I don't trust myself. I was playing with WINISD and if I put in one parameter wrong I will screw up the whole thing. I was thinking about buying a pre-cut kit (the one where you glue it together) and throw in a amp & driver (kind of like you suggested). I want it ported but don't really want a huge box either though. My sub is 5.5 cubic feet (outer measurement) and that is big enough. If I do all this it may just be best to pay $800 for the turbo kit.

Pav26,

I will call the SI guys and see they have a 15 inch leftover because they don't sell them anymore (or look for a used one). Also, I am shocked by that graph in your link. When I bought my sub I saw graphs that showed my sub was flat to 20 HZ. I think it was at 90 or 95 DB though. Maybe the graph in your link is MAX SPL and so it has a huge drop off below 40 HZ. The sub drops 16 decibels between 40 HZ and 20 HZ! That sucks! But, it does the same thing with the other drivers (just at a higher volume).

Wow. So much to learn. You gave you been really helpful to me.
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Yes, I agree - the graph doesn't really look too great. I'm not surprised though, 2.75-3 cubic feet for a single 15 is really, really small. Apparently the port is tuned to 22Hz too. Bear in mind the graph does not account for the room gain - aka boost you get below 30Hz, though even with room gain I can't see the graph being much flatter.

I will try modelling it myself if I get a chance, but I doubt Mike P modeled it wrong (he is one of the most knowledgeable guys around). If the max output was 95db though, I can see it being flat by all the frequencies above 20Hz being "cut down" to create a flatter response. Maybe that EQ to do so was incorporated in the amp, it's possible.

No worries - that is what we are here for. About building an enclosure - you really don't have to worry much, that's exactly why you have forums like this - you can always post your findings/designs/questions to ensure you get as much as you possibly can right when you build a new enclosure for a sub :T
Pav26,

I think I may have confused you. I saw a graph of my sub (when i bought it) at 90 or 95 DB (and the sub was flat to 20HZ). This was not max SPL. I have hit 120 DB with my sub. I think Mike's graph is max SPL and that is why the sub drops down so much at 20 HZ. Correct me if I am wrong but I thought all good subs will have a flat response at low to medium volumes (90 or 95DB). Its when you play them loud (over 110 DB) that's when they still are loud at 40 HZ but drop alot of DB at 20HZ. Maybe I am wrong though.
One more thing. I looked at the thread you linked and the port measurement seems wrong. It says its 16 1/2W by 1 1/2 H by 44 1/2 H. The 44 1/2 seems too long. Also, the external volume is 5.6 cubic feet. Can the internal volume really only be 2.8 cubic feet. That seems too small.

Here is a link where someone cloned my sub (so you can see the internals of it). http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?221293-MFW-15-Clone-Project
Mike's graph is a model of the subwoofer in an anechoic environment, and also does not include the effects of EQ the stock amp would have had on the response. The quoted performance figures for the MFW15 are 103dB at 20Hz, and 115dB from 35Hz and up (1M measurement)- see here: http://www.audioholics.com/subwoofer-reviews/av123-mfw-15

That matches up quite well with Mike's graph. The turbo package includes a Dayton 1000w rackmount amp - it is also mentioned by Kevin that the amp has modifications to best suit the specific enclosure airspace and driver. Most likely with the inuke, if you plan on that, you will have to use some EQ to get the flat response you must be used to.

5.6 cubes gross and 2.8 cubes net is perfectly realistic, as is the port length. with those dimensions, the specific tune is 21.4Hz. That makes sense, the port is folded in the enclosure. I cannot say if it is actually 44.5" since I don't own a MFW15, but I can assure you it is realistic.

The port, driver, and any bracing will take up a lot of space in the enclosure - not to mention the thickness of the cabinet walls itself. Let's see:

External dimensions: 18.125" x 23.25" x 22". This gives us 5.4 cubes.

Now, let's assume 3/4" walls all round. That reduces internal volume to 4.3 cubes.

Now for the port. The port is 16.5" wide, 2.25" in the enclosure (1.5"+0.75" MDF height) and 44.5" long (or so it seems). Including the port displacement, the volume is now 3.3 cubic feet.

Finally, including the driver displacement, amp displacement and bracing will bring us down to right around 3 cubic feet. As you can see, yes, the internal volume can really be as little as 2.8 cubic feet. I did not account for a double baffle - if the mfw15 does have one, then that reduces internal volume further.
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I knew the driver, port and bracing take up box room but I didn't expect it to be 50%. But, I guess that's what it is.

Here is the graph from the linked post.
http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...s/45178d1385218451-av123-mfw-15-help-mfw15.jp

I am surprised the sealed 18 has a many DB in 20 HZ to 30 HZ range as the ported 15. I guess the bigger driver helps out. More importantly if the 15 ported had a bigger box I think it would have many more DB in this range??

I wonder how many more DB I could get in this range by using an EQ? 5 DB? 10 DB? I guess I could try until the driver bottoms out & then back off a bit?

Pav26,
You have taught me a lot here in a few posts. More than I have found out myself in the last week of doing my own research. That just confused me more.
Yeah it's mainly the port that always takes up the most room in the enclosure, it can take up quite a lot depending on overall box size.

I am surprised the sealed 18 has a many DB in 20 HZ to 30 HZ range as the ported 15. I guess the bigger driver helps out. More importantly if the 15 ported had a bigger box I think it would have many more DB in this range??
Yes, the bigger driver does help out. You are also right - if the 15" SI HT was given a larger box (say 2x, so about 5-6 cubic feet) it would outperform the single sealed 18 in terms of SPL 20Hz and above. The MFW 15 is a very small enclosure, although it may not seem like it. It has to be though - it was a commercial subwoofer designed to meet the needs of most normal HT buffs, i.e not be the size of a giant coffin! There are always tradeoffs to be made. Since the box had to be made so small, the right driver was needed and the tailoring of EQ was needed to get the response flat to 20Hz. That's why the graph looks bad, in it's raw form without EQ and room gain that's more or less the response you'll get. When we built DIY subs, we model with the goal of using least EQ as possible, that's why graphs for builds on this forum will look "better". Because DIY subs don't need to be size restricted, we can get the most bang for the buck by using a large enclosure and as little EQ as possible. Ideally, for me at least, the only EQ used should be to tame room peaks/dips in the response of a subwoofer.

I wonder how many more DB I could get in this range by using an EQ? 5 DB? 10 DB? I guess I could try until the driver bottoms out & then back off a bit?
The way to do it would be to first measure the raw response of your sub with the new amp with no EQ (and driver, if you get one) and go from there. The amount of EQ you can get away with depends on your room size as well as even personal preference. Some people prefer a response so flat you could set a beer on the graph of one. Others prefer what's called a "house-curve". See this very informative thread to learn some more about that: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/rew-forum/96-house-curve-what-why-you-need-how-do.html

You will be able to get equal, if not better response from an SI HT 15 and the inuke in that enclosure compared to stock for sure. (Once you EQ it, that is).
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jman, im in a similar situation, one mfw smoked and another humming loudly. I am close to pulling the trigger on the turbo upgrades. after reading I came across your reviews. You are the only one I see that has heard the chane sub and the mfw turbos. It looks like for the money I have a choice between the 2. What do you think for running duals? Im in a sealed designated room designed by bryan pape, double layers of 3/4 suppress drywall and green glue etc etc... thanks for any input.
jman, im in a similar situation, one mfw smoked and another humming loudly. I am close to pulling the trigger on the turbo upgrades. after reading I came across your reviews. You are the only one I see that has heard the chane sub and the mfw turbos. It looks like for the money I have a choice between the 2. What do you think for running duals? Im in a sealed designated room designed by bryan pape, double layers of 3/4 suppress drywall and green glue etc etc... thanks for any input.
Ironically, both the SBE-118 and MFW Turbo are within 5 feet of me as I type this message. How many people have ever been in a position to say that?

They're two completely different animals really, so it depends upon what you're looking to achieve. Since they both use the same SA-1000 amp that's essentially a draw, although the one supplied with the MFW Turbo has been modified specifically for their setup. But the core is the same, so we'll call that one a tie. For total output and "in your face" bass I would probably give the nod to the Turbo, while refinement and purity goes to the SBE-118. Neither lacks in too many areas though, so it comes down to what you're looking for really. Each has abilities beyond what it costs you to buy them, that's for sure.

Are your MFW cabinets from the 'good' batch? The one Mark Seaton gave me to evaluate is from the era where AV123 was supplying very nice woodwork, and as such this one is quite impressive - one of the better subwoofer cabinets I've seen to date actually. The MFW cabinet is taller and deeper than the SBE-118 is, but the latter is wider. For all intents and purposes they take up about the same amount of space though.

To be honest, I'm not certain either would be a bad choice. It's more along the lines of which would be better for your particular circumstances. I really enjoyed both of them. Not sure my house feels the same though... :D
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I dont really know what Im trying to achieve. I have not really heard anything outside of big named subs like the jl fathom, Klipsch, m&k. I actually have no experience at all with any like chase, seaton, etc etc. So I dont know what to expect. I do know that my mfw-15 in my particular room sounded great and impressed anyone that heard them, They moved my clothes on more than one occasion. Bryan had them front and rear center facing each other. I also know I want to feel it more I want that chest punch, hair moving power. Not sure if this describes the turbo. How does refinement and purity translate in the subwoofer world?

I hope my cabinets are from the good batch. How would I tell? I just bought the matte black finish, a year or two before they folded
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