If you are happy with the sub then just replace the amp with the inuke. To replace the driver as well would require finding one that would be happy in the enclosure you already have.
Probably few would be able to exercise such restrain. Drop a blown Hemi into a Hyundai and what's the first thing most of us (myself included) would do? Floor it!Thanks Jman, I assumed (rightly or wrongly) that the user would be aware of the fact that the amp was a lot larger than the original and they would limit the level to what they had previously used.
What's your budget? That will strongly influence the direction you can go in.Any other suggestions or advice for me?
Yes, the bigger driver does help out. You are also right - if the 15" SI HT was given a larger box (say 2x, so about 5-6 cubic feet) it would outperform the single sealed 18 in terms of SPL 20Hz and above. The MFW 15 is a very small enclosure, although it may not seem like it. It has to be though - it was a commercial subwoofer designed to meet the needs of most normal HT buffs, i.e not be the size of a giant coffin! There are always tradeoffs to be made. Since the box had to be made so small, the right driver was needed and the tailoring of EQ was needed to get the response flat to 20Hz. That's why the graph looks bad, in it's raw form without EQ and room gain that's more or less the response you'll get. When we built DIY subs, we model with the goal of using least EQ as possible, that's why graphs for builds on this forum will look "better". Because DIY subs don't need to be size restricted, we can get the most bang for the buck by using a large enclosure and as little EQ as possible. Ideally, for me at least, the only EQ used should be to tame room peaks/dips in the response of a subwoofer.I am surprised the sealed 18 has a many DB in 20 HZ to 30 HZ range as the ported 15. I guess the bigger driver helps out. More importantly if the 15 ported had a bigger box I think it would have many more DB in this range??
The way to do it would be to first measure the raw response of your sub with the new amp with no EQ (and driver, if you get one) and go from there. The amount of EQ you can get away with depends on your room size as well as even personal preference. Some people prefer a response so flat you could set a beer on the graph of one. Others prefer what's called a "house-curve". See this very informative thread to learn some more about that: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/rew-forum/96-house-curve-what-why-you-need-how-do.htmlI wonder how many more DB I could get in this range by using an EQ? 5 DB? 10 DB? I guess I could try until the driver bottoms out & then back off a bit?
Ironically, both the SBE-118 and MFW Turbo are within 5 feet of me as I type this message. How many people have ever been in a position to say that?jman, im in a similar situation, one mfw smoked and another humming loudly. I am close to pulling the trigger on the turbo upgrades. after reading I came across your reviews. You are the only one I see that has heard the chane sub and the mfw turbos. It looks like for the money I have a choice between the 2. What do you think for running duals? Im in a sealed designated room designed by bryan pape, double layers of 3/4 suppress drywall and green glue etc etc... thanks for any input.