1. Buy a "MiniDSP in a box". I got the balanced flavor since I wanted to have high drive voltage for my EP4000.
2. Get the "Stereo 2-way, 2 way crossover, Advanced" plugin.
3. Dig a 12v wall-wart out of your "box of junk I may use somday (~1% chance)".
7. I'll let you follow MiniDSP's directions to launch the plug-in software, configure, sync to MiniDSP. Make sure you do all the initial syncing while not connected to the rest of your system. After the first sync, you can connect it up and then modify the settings in real time (cool!).
8. After getting it up and running, I watched the input level while driving a pretty high volume from my Onkyo. It was barely bumping up from -inf. So I needed to move the jumper to high-sensitivity (0.9v-max instead of 2.0v-max).
Play around with some of the other settings. Like, I use one band of the PEQ @ 1kHz/low-Q(wideband) to cut some hum. Oops, I just looked at my pictures and I see that I connected the +(black) wire of my XLR cable to the (-) terminal. Doesn't matter of course.
Anybody want to buy my FDP?
Good luck,
--Myles
2. Get the "Stereo 2-way, 2 way crossover, Advanced" plugin.
3. Dig a 12v wall-wart out of your "box of junk I may use somday (~1% chance)".
- 1A should be plenty of drive. Spec sheet says 150mA, but that seems light.
- WARNING: Use a volt meter to check the voltage. The first so-called 12v transformer I tried actually put out 8v. The 2cd one was a solid 12v (a selectable-voltage model from RS).
- While unplugged, chop off the connector and strip the wires. Plug it in. Use voltmeter to check the voltage and determine the polarity.
4. I'm driving the MiniDSP with my Onkyo AVR (RCA, single ended).- Chop off your RCA connector and strip it down so that you have the signal and shield twisted and nicely separated.
- You will also need a little piece of wire to short the shield input (S) to the neg polarity input (-).
- In my pictures, you see 2 RCA cables. That's because I use a 30ft stereo RCA cable to run my LFE signal. I use a Y at the AVR and a Y at the MiniDSP so that I use both L and R in parallel (30ft seems like a long run. 1/2 the R just feels better.).
5. If you're driving a pro amp like mine, get an XLR cable and chop off the female end.- Strip it all down so that the black, white and shield (carefully unbraid it using something like a jeweler's screwdriver) are all nicely twisted and the same length.
6. Now connect everything to the MiniDSP connection blocks. Pretty straightforward.7. I'll let you follow MiniDSP's directions to launch the plug-in software, configure, sync to MiniDSP. Make sure you do all the initial syncing while not connected to the rest of your system. After the first sync, you can connect it up and then modify the settings in real time (cool!).
8. After getting it up and running, I watched the input level while driving a pretty high volume from my Onkyo. It was barely bumping up from -inf. So I needed to move the jumper to high-sensitivity (0.9v-max instead of 2.0v-max).
- Remove the 4 screws from one end of the box.
- Pull the connector blocks straight off of the box. Then you can remove the face plate and the top plate. Then move the jumpers as marked on the ckt-board/manual.
9. Fire up REW and follow the MiniDSP's website directions to dump your EQ settings into your plugin software PEQ settings (export to a file, then import that file into the plugin software). I used the PEQ after the crossover, but I don't think it matters (does it??).Play around with some of the other settings. Like, I use one band of the PEQ @ 1kHz/low-Q(wideband) to cut some hum. Oops, I just looked at my pictures and I see that I connected the +(black) wire of my XLR cable to the (-) terminal. Doesn't matter of course.
Anybody want to buy my FDP?
Good luck,
--Myles
