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The Star Wars movie was good in Blue Ray. I finally got time Friday to play with the Mic & all. The UMIK-1 seems to work as advertised. (I'm now into the REW learning curve.) I've got a Camera Tripod that I hardly use which works for the Denon Audyssey Mic and of course won't fit the UMIK-1. I guess I'll try to make an adapter. I do remember seeing something about one on this forum (on eBay?). Perhaps I'll go find that thread again.
 

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The Star Wars movie was good in Blue Ray. I finally got time Friday to play with the Mic & all. The UMIK-1 seems to work as advertised. (I'm now into the REW learning curve.) I've got a Camera Tripod that I hardly use which works for the Denon Audyssey Mic and of course won't fit the UMIK-1. I guess I'll try to make an adapter. I do remember seeing something about one on this forum (on eBay?). Perhaps I'll go find that thread again.
Hi Jim,
Not too impressed with that movie sound and video good, but to watch not too much different to the original so I was a little disappointed.
The mic adaptor, strange I got a mic stand originially for the Denon Audyssey Mic and a standard camera mount adaptor to go onto the stand which screws into the Audyssey Mic fine, the Mic clip supplied with the UMIK1 fits that same adaptor perfectly.
Getting to grips with REW can be a trial but plenty of help on here look out for the REW + HDMI Output thread good starting point been looking for the link but can't find it. It is also on the MiniDSP UMIK1 site complete with download link for ASIO4ALL which you will also need. I actually have to cut and run going out to dinner tonight shortly and will suffer severe wrath if I am not ready.
Finally I wrote my UMIK1 serial number to text document using note pad and put it and the two calibration files, which are also text documents, on to a CD which is stored with all my other important software in a secure archive, to me that seemed the most secure way being physical storage rather than relying on emailed or other similar electronic copies. I just feel it is more secure than it being on a hard drive somewhere, they can crash or be inadvertently wiped. But that's just me I guess.

I found the link to REW + HDMI Output the link is in Sonnies post located here and takes you to the guide on miniDSP site http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/spl-meters-mic-s-calibration-sound-cards/72911-using-umik-1-rew-hdmi-output.html#post676855
 

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Thanks Rick,

I wasn't expecting much from a movie franchise that goes back almost 40 years. It's like a new Bond film, the bar has been set and I just go along with it. (That's why I said it was just Good and no higher.) It was really about seeing it with my son. He's well beyond his teenage years and we don't do that much together anymore, so it was important for him that he showed it to me. (He saw it in the Theater when released.)

I already found most of the links as I've been wading through what seems like hours of web pages. I found the MiniDSP site on the UMIK-1 + HDMI page after I struggled for a few hours and got it somewhat sorted without it. (I was using a PDF manual I'd found and the REW help files. The MiniDSP site would have made it so much simpler.)

My Tripod has the standard camera mount adapter at 1/4" 20 threads per inch which fits my Denon Audyssey Mic, whereas the UMIK-1 Mic clip came with a 3/8" 16 threads per inch mount. I tried to remanufacture a 3/8 bolt I had, but without a drill press, the hand drill bit wandered off center too much to even bother trying to tap it. So I'll head to a Camera store or Home Depot to see if I can find something suitable in the next few days.
 

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Thanks Rick,

My Tripod has the standard camera mount adapter at 1/4" 20 threads per inch which fits my Denon Audyssey Mic, whereas the UMIK-1 Mic clip came with a 3/8" 16 threads per inch mount. I tried to remanufacture a 3/8 bolt I had, but without a drill press, the hand drill bit wandered off center too much to even bother trying to tap it. So I'll head to a Camera store or Home Depot to see if I can find something suitable in the next few days.
Hi Jim
Glad to hear you are getting pretty much sorted, the actual REW site is also a very good place to peruse with lots of helpful information.

Yes I understand now about your Star Wars viewing, I was really quite disappointed because all the time I knew what was coming, just a few different faces.

Anyway I must have had a cerebral shut down or a defrag is required :eek:lddude::dontknow:. I just checked the microphone stand and right enough it's as you state above and fits the UMIK1 Mic clip perfectly I had forgot the mic stand came with an adaptor for a camera mount which fits the Audyssey Mic. The stand cost me all of your equivalent to 12 bucks and has been worth every penny, short version about 39" tall with the cross arm fully adjustable around 30" inches long, great to get to the main LP and then the other measuring positions but also great for direct speaker measurements. I used a camera tripod initially but just too unwieldy, then I made a fixed height one and it was not flexible enough.

Anyway don't know how you have got on but I now have speaker plots and room plots for both systems. The main system though I could not have the room as normal with the door open for the room sweeps, wait till her indoors is out for the golf, but it does look as I suspected I have a bit of treble lift above 4kHz not too excessive but enough to be noticeable on some of the over compressed recordings around these days. I did run the Runrig album 'Mara' and that sounded great having been a decent recording with very clear treble from cymbals and clean deep bass and no noticeable lisp from the vocals which seems to suit my old hearing so I am unlikely to change much although I can experiment in the Denon's graphic mode, I don't have any other means of adjusting the frequency response so will have to do but what I want to do first is compare the speaker plots to the room plots to see what is really happening.

all the best
Rick
 

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Hi Rick,

Sounds like you have the same issues with the Misses as I do.:heehee: Glad to hear you got some measurements done.

I didn't get to muck about last weekend but hope to this weekend. I finally solved the UMIK-1 Mic clip mounting issue on my Tripod yesterday (the standard camera mount adapter at 1/4" 20 threads per inch which fits my Denon Audyssey Mic, whereas the UMIK-1 Mic clip came with a 3/8" 16 threads per inch mount). I went to the local Camera store, and the manager there said I should head over to Long & McQuade (the largest chain of musical instrument retailers in Canada) as that's where he got his adapter. So a few days later off I go but when I get there the clerk says "I wish that guy would stop sending people over here as we don't stock them." He suggests I go to Home Depot as they have them. So another trip there, and scour the shelves for half an hour, but can't find it. I even get the "Hardware Specialist" to check and he advises they don't stock anything like that.

So home I go thinking I'm headed to eBay or Amazon. But I decided to again try to make my own. I find a 3 inch piece of 3/8 16 threads per inch redi rod in an old tool box I haven't used in 20 years. I go to a smaller pilot hole than before (about 1/8"), and use a No.7 tap drill afterwards. I didn't have a tap handle so I improvised with a Crescent Wrench and got it done. I could cut it down so it just fits into the Mic clip but it works without it and gives a couple inches of height to the assembly.



I'll try it as is and see if I want to cut it down later. :wink2:
 

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Hi Rick,

Sounds like you have the same issues with the Misses as I do.:heehee: Glad to hear you got some measurements done.

I didn't get to muck about last weekend but hope to this weekend. I finally solved the UMIK-1 Mic clip mounting issue on my Tripod yesterday (the standard camera mount adapter at 1/4" 20 threads per inch which fits my Denon Audyssey Mic, whereas the UMIK-1 Mic clip came with a 3/8" 16 threads per inch mount). I went to the local Camera store, and the manager there said I should head over to Long & McQuade (the largest chain of musical instrument retailers in Canada) as that's where he got his adapter. So a few days later off I go but when I get there the clerk says "I wish that guy would stop sending people over here as we don't stock them." He suggests I go to Home Depot as they have them. So another trip there, and scour the shelves for half an hour, but can't find it. I even get the "Hardware Specialist" to check and he advises they don't stock anything like that.

So home I go thinking I'm headed to eBay or Amazon. But I decided to again try to make my own. I find a 3 inch piece of 3/8 16 threads per inch redi rod in an old tool box I haven't used in 20 years. I go to a smaller pilot hole than before (about 1/8"), and use a No.7 tap drill afterwards. I didn't have a tap handle so I improvised with a Crescent Wrench and got it done. I could cut it down so it just fits into the Mic clip but it works without it and gives a couple inches of height to the assembly.



I'll try it as is and see if I want to cut it down later. :wink2:
Hi Jim

Yup this Missus don't like funny noises, so I kick her out to play golf >:) that keeps the marriage sane.

Glad you got your adaptor resolved, neat bit of work on your behalf, amazing what you can find hidden away, I'm not a hoarder but I do keep (IMO) what I think might be useful. If I were you though, I would seriously look out for a cheap mic stand it really it so much easier, we have high backed clubman type chairs (really bad choice for audio, sit back and the sound stage becomes a bit constricted with reflections from the backs :frown:) but so easy to adjust the mic position I got mine from eBay for about £12 would probably cost you about the same in $. Very simple folds away with 3 legs and a boom with a threaded end that fits the UMIK1 adaptor good also for room calibration with the Audyessy mic.

Got some more sweeps done (now with the room door open which is our usual listening condition and the way I calibrate the AVR) direct from the MLP with the UMIK1 pointed at the speakers for stereo. They look reasonable, may be the bass looks a bit high but using ASIO4ALL with HDMI my AVR goes to multi channel (Denon) and I have made the sub woofer output level a bit hotter in the AVR in that mode to give a bit more bass on multi channel music (SACD/BD), but the treble is a lot closer to the mid range which makes me happy and confirms more or less what I am hearing. However got some strange results for phase which I need to look into. I have measured these speakers before, both close up for speaker response and from the MLP and the phase was OK, which it should be, they are Tannoy Revolution XT8F with the combined coaxial tweeter/mid driver and phase with these speakers really should not be a problem. So I will look into the instructions 'again' to see what I have done wrong or not done that I should have.

The main reason I bought the UMIK1 was to have a decent reference, after looking at the Audyessy results to confirm my suspicion that the room was probably a bit over damped, which it appears to be, but nothing much I can do about that, it is our living room and the furniture, pictures, paintings etc. in there need to stay. On the other hand I prefer that to a bright room, I do really like the sound I am getting and so do other people who hear the system, floor shaking bass in the movies and clean tuneful bass mid and upper for music. Now a fix for my ears :coocoo::help::eek:lddude:

Next check will be sub woofer phase, once I have sorted the phase problem above, to see what I can achieve by tweaking it, it may make no difference but no harm in trying as I am a bit limited on location for that, but I think it is pretty much in the right place

Rick
 

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Thanks Rick,

I wasn't expecting much from a movie franchise that goes back almost 40 years. It's like a new Bond film, the bar has been set and I just go along with it. (That's why I said it was just Good and no higher.) It was really about seeing it with my son. He's well beyond his teenage years and we don't do that much together anymore, so it was important for him that he showed it to me. (He saw it in the Theater when released.)

I already found most of the links as I've been wading through what seems like hours of web pages. I found the MiniDSP site on the UMIK-1 + HDMI page after I struggled for a few hours and got it somewhat sorted without it. (I was using a PDF manual I'd found and the REW help files. The MiniDSP site would have made it so much simpler.)

My Tripod has the standard camera mount adapter at 1/4" 20 threads per inch which fits my Denon Audyssey Mic, whereas the UMIK-1 Mic clip came with a 3/8" 16 threads per inch mount. I tried to remanufacture a 3/8 bolt I had, but without a drill press, the hand drill bit wandered off center too much to even bother trying to tap it. So I'll head to a Camera store or Home Depot to see if I can find something suitable in the next few days.
Hope I am not too late.
Here is where I found mine:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Thread-Adapters-Fittings/ci/14722/N/3991602298
 

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Hi FargateOne
Nice find, hope Jim is looking at this. He has actually made one but he might find what you suggest better. I did suggest he should look seriously at a mic stand so much more convenient than a photo tripod (the legs get in the way for some locations) for doing AVR room calibrations and using the UMIK1 still need an adaptor for the Audyessy Mic, never know if I spell that right:ponder:.

I did a quick search on that site for tripods and found one similar to what I use, so I will answer his post with the link there may of course be others cheaper but a good starting place
 

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Hi Rick,

Sounds like you have the same issues with the Misses as I do.:heehee: Glad to hear you got some measurements done.

I didn't get to muck about last weekend but hope to this weekend. I finally solved the UMIK-1 Mic clip mounting issue on my Tripod yesterday (the standard camera mount adapter at 1/4" 20 threads per inch which fits my Denon Audyssey Mic, whereas the UMIK-1 Mic clip came with a 3/8" 16 threads per inch mount).
I'll try it as is and see if I want to cut it down later. :wink2:
Hi Jim,
I deleted some of your post to save a bit of space just left the relevant detail.

See the post above from FargateOne all sorts of adaptors on that link, really good of him to post it.

So I had a look and then checked out tripods, eBay may still be cheaper but I did a search with a price range and this one came up which has been discounted similar to what I use but extends higher see it here http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/290489-REG/Ultimate_Support_15159_MC_40_Microphone_Boom_Stand.html should you be interested

All the best

Rick
 

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Hi Jim,
I deleted some of your post to save a bit of space just left the relevant detail.

See the post above from FargateOne all sorts of adaptors on that link, really good of him to post it.

So I had a look and then checked out tripods, eBay may still be cheaper but I did a search with a price range and this one came up which has been discounted similar to what I use but extends higher see it here http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/290489-REG/Ultimate_Support_15159_MC_40_Microphone_Boom_Stand.html should you be interested

All the best

Rick
Thanks Rick,

That is a decent price for a stand. If my Tripod fails me maybe I'll try this instead. We'll see how it goes on the weekend. :wink2:
 

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Thanks Rick,

That is a decent price for a stand. If my Tripod fails me maybe I'll try this instead. We'll see how it goes on the weekend. :wink2:
Hi Jim
Looks good, just remember that whatever you are using for the UMIK1 you need to be able to position it both vertical and horizontal, some camera tripods may not let you do position it vertical depending on the camera mounting part, one of mine has a big square base which would prevent the UMIK1 going vertical. One other point if you go for a mic stand check out any additional shipping charges, I noted in my research particularly on eBay Canada shipping charges were quite high (and most were coming to Canada from the US) in some cases more than the actual stand :frown:

All the best and good luck with your measurements at the weekend

PS I think I sorted my phase anomalies but just need to check a little more, also my group delay problem has gone away must have been a rogue measurement, maybe extraneous noise or something the latest ones are just about ruler flat with a minor deviation at the lowest frequencies around 15 to 20 Hz, so pretty pleased with that.
Rick
 

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Hi Rick,

I did a couple of sweeps but I messed up a Bit. I'll post about it over at the REW forum.

My Tripod worked out quite well. Here's a couple of photos illustrating how it works with my "adapter".
 

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Hi Rick,

I did a couple of sweeps but I messed up a Bit. I'll post about it over at the REW forum.

My Tripod worked out quite well. Here's a couple of photos illustrating how it works with my "adapter".
Hi Jim
Yeah that looks quite good you got all the orientation you need and as long as your adaptor doesn't mean you can't get it down to ear height looks like you are good to go. I did see your post on the REW forum but now there have been more so will have to do a search to pick it up, but I noted you were saying with the surrounds you could not do a sweep without the sub. It is maybe because the surrounds are set to small so your AVR is adding in the sub automatically, try setting the surrounds to large in the speaker setup menu that may alleviate the sub problem otherwise switch the sub off and adjust your sweep at the lower frequencies to match your surrounds frequency response.

I am getting some strange results on my sub using ASIO4all doing a direct sub only measurement (selecting display speaker 1.4) with quite high 2nd harmonic distortion at one frequency from memory I think it is about 90Hz, if however I run the main speaker with the sub and set my sweep 20Hz to 120Hz and set the Xover to 120Hz to just see the sub the 2nd harmonic distortion is way down less than 1% a bit weird so I may raise that as a question on the REW forum and see what folks think. I am wondering if it is something to do with ASIO4all or some other factor. The way I see it, at the moment, using the second method I am still measuring only the sub
 

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Hi Jim
Yeah that looks quite good you got all the orientation you need and as long as your adaptor doesn't mean you can't get it down to ear height looks like you are good to go. I did see your post on the REW forum but now there have been more so will have to do a search to pick it up, but I noted you were saying with the surrounds you could not do a sweep without the sub. It is maybe because the surrounds are set to small so your AVR is adding in the sub automatically, try setting the surrounds to large in the speaker setup menu that may alleviate the sub problem otherwise switch the sub off and adjust your sweep at the lower frequencies to match your surrounds frequency response.

I am getting some strange results on my sub using ASIO4all doing a direct sub only measurement (selecting display speaker 1.4) with quite high 2nd harmonic distortion at one frequency from memory I think it is about 90Hz, if however I run the main speaker with the sub and set my sweep 20Hz to 120Hz and set the Xover to 120Hz to just see the sub the 2nd harmonic distortion is way down less than 1% a bit weird so I may raise that as a question on the REW forum and see what folks think. I am wondering if it is something to do with ASIO4all or some other factor. The way I see it, at the moment, using the second method I am still measuring only the sub
I m not an expert (a lot of them in Rew threads better than me) but I did the same mistake and John, Rew's author, said that Asio4all channel 1.4 send only LFE signal which is by definition 0 to 120hz.
Jtalden said that to measure the sub, you have to make full range sweep 20 -20Khz and disconnect the speaker choosen in Asio4all lets say channel 1.1 = front left.
 

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I m not an expert (a lot of them in Rew threads better than me) but I did yhe same mistake and Joh, Rew's author, said that Asio4all channel 1.4 send only LFE signal which is by definition 0 to 120hz.
Jtalden said that to measure the sub, you have to make full range sweep 20 -2Khz and disconnecte the speaker choosen in Asio4all lets say channel 1.1 = front left.
Hi FargateOne,

That is a great reply, taken a load off my mind. Had all sorts of strange ideas the latest being maybe my .1 channel on the AVR was causing the problem and was going to sweep that this afternoon. So I was basically part way there. Just to confirm, you say a full range sweep 20-2kHz or should that be 20-20kHz which would be the normal definition of full range.

Again thanks for that very useful information.
Rick
 

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Hi FargateOne,

That is a great reply, taken a load off my mind. Had all sorts of strange ideas the latest being maybe my .1 channel on the AVR was causing the problem and was going to sweep that this afternoon. So I was basically part way there. Just to confirm, you say a full range sweep 20-2kHz or should that be 20-20kHz which would be the normal definition of full range.

Again thanks for that very useful information.
Rick
Sorry for the typo: 20hz to 20 000 hz of course. The full range sweep helps when you want to see how the sub helps or not the transition between the sub frequencies and the fronts at the xover region. So you need a full sweep for the front alone (sub main switch to off), a sweep for the sub alone (front disconnected) and a sweep for Front left and sub together.
 

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Sorry for the typo: 20hz to 20 000 hz of course. The full range sweep helps when you want to see how the sub helps or not the transition between the sub frequencies and the fronts at the xover region. So you need a full sweep for the front alone (sub main switch to off), a sweep for the sub alone (front disconnected) and a sweep for Front left and sub together.
Thanks for taking the time to clarify, really appreciated, now I know where I am going:smile:.

Rick
 

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Mic or Z Weighted SPL Meter.

John, first off, thank you so much for this wonderful software program that you've created!

I know that I'm digging up an old post, but I've searched for clarification and this is the closest that I have found...

I know now to set the initial setting to Z Weighted when we first setup the soundcard info with the Umik-1 USB Microphone. My question/observation deal with what happens afterward when Im just using REW's internal SPL meter function on it's own. It seems like even if I selected the Z weighted option initially, the default setting for the SPL meter is C Weighted. When I then switch it to Z weighted via the radio button, the noise floor(?) registers almost 10dB greater than C Weighted did. Since the instructions for measuring my setup call for me to raised the output signal level roughly 40dB above the noise floor of the room, using Z Weighted pushes my AVR to a much higher playing level (10dB higher) just to meet that spec. surprisingly, beyond the difference measured for the noise floor, when I play and measure the final signal, the levels appear to be the same for both C and Z weighted.

So my questions is... does it make a difference if I leave the setting of the SPL to C weighted after having indicated that the USB Mic is Z Weighted?
 

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The mic setting tells REW what kind of device is connected. It is independent of the SPL meter weighting setting. With the SPL meter on Z weighting you will see the influence of very low frequency content which is de-emphasised using A or C weighting. However, "measure 40 dB above..." is not good advice. Measure at a comfortable listening level, 75 dB is more than sufficient.
 
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