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Discussion Starter #1
Pardon the length of this- I am very new to all the acronyms and specs required to build a home theater sub but I am a fan of what they do and a semi accomplished carpenter. I have a Def Tech Supercube II that has some internal issues that I don't care to have fixed. So the parts I have are: 1-8" driver from said subwoofer, 2-8" passive radiators and as it happens I also have an 8" driver from a Supercube. I would like to use what I have and buy a plate amplifier. The primary use of the sub will be home theater. I am open to varying deigns but am not into researching/learning a whole new language. Any help would be very much appreciated and I will upload photos of my project. If it matters my room is 14'x16' and I am married so the size can't be overwhelming, LOL.
 

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I am open to varying deigns but am not into researching/learning a whole new language.
That's probably going to hamper you then, because without knowing what you're doing and why you're doing it the prospect of success is pretty slim I'm afraid. The amp, driver(s), alignment and cabinet size are all intertwined. If the equation isn't balanced among all of them you can be almost certain it will end badly.

It sounds as though the "internal issues" you mention are structural, seeing as how you're able to reuse the driver and PR's. Is the problem actually related to the cabinet itself?
 

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I agree with Jim. You'll be driving in a blizzard on a road you don't know, and who knows where your destination will end up. I think your smartest money would be at parts express. They're having good sales right now on drivers and probably flat packs too. I wouldn't bother with 8" anything. Is the room connected to any others? I know the questions revolved around salvaging the super cube stuff but you will be able to build something that can destroy a super cube and probably not be a lot larger in size, and I can't recommend use of the parts you have. Sorry. Show your wife a new svs 16" ultra and then tell her you could build one 1/2 as big. Then it might not hurt so bad when she sees the new one! Lol
http://www.parts-express.com/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=G+-+Brand+-+Main&utm_group=G-Brand-Main-Exact


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I do like parts express. The room is connected to another small dining room maybe 11x15. I am totally into a build. I didn't mean to seem lazy in saying I didn't want to research, I just don't want to reinvent the wheel when there are so many out there that know these things backwards and forward. If buying new components is the best route, I'm in. Would You recommend any of the diy subs from parts express or just parts and another plan?
 

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Lol. Agreed, there are plenty of point and shoot options and it probably makes the most sense to find one you like and make it happen, vs designing from scratch.(which isn't that bad either) I would recommend diy options from PE. While I have used parts from them for builds, I haven't purchased a "kit". What I've heard and read about through, is many people have had great luck with them. The ultimax driver is on sale, and is a real good value. I'd take a nice long gander and see what stands out to you. Do you have a budget in mind, or is that something that's evolving as you go? Lol


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Along with PE there's the DIY Sound Group, with options for sealed and ported. When you click on any of them there's actually a list of recommended drivers, so there's no guesswork for that part. Both PE and DIYSG offer a lot of value for the person willing to get their hands a little dirty, which it sounds like you're fine with.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This is definitely a developing idea and no real budget has been set. I am looking at the PE page on the ultimax drivers now. If from this forum I could get help on a design, I would rather build something more interesting than the "kit" boxes on PE. I am sure that their kits work fine but I would rather have a discrete piece of furniture than another black box in the corner. Where as, I cannot design the thing, I can build anything from wood. Design for me does not have to use exotic materials but at least an interesting design. Would you match either the 10" OR 12"(ultimax) with the dayton plate amp 500w, or 1000w?
 

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Another question: -I've been seeing things about t line boxes and like the thought of what goes into the interior of them- Are they more for music than home theater? I know that question is showing what I lack in knowledge but that design is intriguing just because I know what is inside it.
 

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I may not get back to this until tomorrow but I wanted to say thanks for the info and I'm looking forward to more input so that I end up with some serious output!
 

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Another question: -I've been seeing things about t line boxes and like the thought of what goes into the interior of them- Are they more for music than home theater? I know that question is showing what I lack in knowledge but that design is intriguing just because I know what is inside it.
A transmission line, from the guy who doesn't want to learn the lingo? :yikes: Man, have you ever gone down the rabbit hole... :D

Transmission line subwoofers are designed to get the most out of the least, driver wise, but their main goal is output; lots and lots of output. They're quite large and very complex to design too, so unless you download somebody else's plans I'd skip right on by that option.
 

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Well the design is cool, but I understand that the variables may be too complex. So- all cards on the table, I'm such a newbie that I am just findInglet out that my issues may be two blown drivers. One is my original one and one I bought as a replacement from ebay :(. I brought he a multimeter and the ohms are all over the place on both drivers.

A: if the above is true; would a dayton ultimax 8 do ok in the supercube box?

B: if the above is true, could I use the amp and crossover from the supercube to build setting better?
 

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I'd be pretty wary of dropping a non factory-direct replacement woofer into a box with passive radiators. Those change all of the math on how the system functions as a whole, and the odds that a different driver would function acceptably are pretty slim.

As for designing your own subwoofer, the simplest thing to do is build a sealed box that is the same as or larger than the volume required to give you an F3 right around your driver's Fs. (The F3 is the frequency at which the system produces a level 3dB down from your average output at reference level, and Fs is the driver's resonance in open air). PE is pretty good about listing box volumes for sealed and ported enclosure volumes as a reference for many of their drivers, and I've had plenty of success simply taking those volumes and designing boxes around them. Don't forget to account for the volume displaced by the driver itself, and of any bracing you add internally... all that will subtract from your total box volume, which ends up working against you in that regard.

Building a ported box adds a level of complexity in that you have to tune the port to a specific frequency while being mindful of the volume of air it displaces inside the box and try to keep the air velocity at the port opening low enough to avoid "chuffing"... clearly this can be done, but it's more to think about.

If you want to make the box look cool, I'd keep the design of the thing as simple as possible internally and restrict "coolness" to the exterior... there are a million different ways to add something to the outside of a box to make it look different, but there are a limited number of ways to build a cool-looking box that is also functional acoustically.
 
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