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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My five year old Mitsu will not power up...The timer light blinks for about 5 seconds and then goes away. Pressing "Device" and "Menu" yields an error conde 2-3, "Loss of Deflection" per the user manual. Prior to dying, it had a similar episode; I had disconnected the TV for a long weekend out of home, and when returned and connect it, it won't start. I unplugged it for several minutes and connected it back and then it powered up. A few weeks later it finally died.

One point that may or may not be relevant is that I had notice for the last several months , in one of the inputs, a sort of a greenish tone in one of the screen edges. In another input, I tried the advanced convergence that improve this. I was not able to try it in the other input.

This is my third Mitsu HD RPTV set in about nine years. The first two were under extended warranty, but this one is not.

I am trying to see if I can get any DYI recommendations that I would be able to implement in order to save this set. The repair shops would normally replaced the board, and are not willing to troubleshoot and repair the board. Replacing a board will be very expensive, if you are lucky to find them.

Any help is appreciatted.:help:
 

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My five year old Mitsu will not power up...The timer light blinks for about 5 seconds and then goes away. Pressing "Device" and "Menu" yields an error conde 2-3, "Loss of Deflection" per the user manual. Prior to dying, it had a similar episode; I had disconnected the TV for a long weekend out of home, and when returned and connect it, it won't start. I unplugged it for several minutes and connected it back and then it powered up. A few weeks later it finally died.

One point that may or may not be relevant is that I had notice for the last several months , in one of the inputs, a sort of a greenish tone in one of the screen edges. In another input, I tried the advanced convergence that improve this. I was not able to try it in the other input.

This is my third Mitsu HD RPTV set in about nine years. The first two were under extended warranty, but this one is not.

I am trying to see if I can get any DYI recommendations that I would be able to implement in order to save this set. The repair shops would normally replaced the board, and are not willing to troubleshoot and repair the board. Replacing a board will be very expensive, if you are lucky to find them.

Any help is appreciatted.:help:
Start with the Lamp or Color Wheel. Both are pretty easy replacements.
 

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Start with the Lamp or Color Wheel. Both are pretty easy replacements.
As said above, wrong technology. It is also VERY rare to have a bad color wheel in a Mitsubishi DLP, and on many of the early sets you could not buy them as discrete parts anyway, you had to buy the light engine. The newer sets have the CW available.
 

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Deflection problems are often hard for DIYers. There are not many symptom-repair relationships that do not require some troubleshooting skill and possible test equipment that most don't have. You can check for obviously shorted large output transistors, open fuses, and burned components, but beyond that I would have a professional check the set.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Deflection problems are often hard for DIYers. There are not many symptom-repair relationships that do not require some troubleshooting skill and possible test equipment that most don't have. You can check for obviously shorted large output transistors, open fuses, and burned components, but beyond that I would have a professional check the set.
I had contacted a Tech. He said over the phone that it may probably be either the power/deflection board or the signal board. The deflection board was available from Mits for $375+ship/taxes. The signal board, not so lucky, its not available. Of course, he would need to come and check the set which I may have him do. However, it appears as a big expense to repair this set that route as I could end paying probably arount $600 (close to the cost of a 720P 50 inch plasma?) when all is said and done, and there is always a risk of another board failing, maybe next time the signal board, which is not available as a replacement.

As mentioned, I would probably have the tech come and check it out (about $50 expense) and explore with him other options, although he did not seem open at troubleshooting at the board level, he would just replace the damaged board.

So, that means I would probably be open to try at least some basic things. For now, I am trying to see if there is any coolant leakage, which I have not been able to see. I have read some posts about cleaning and checking the boards, that have worked.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/mitsubishi/5966-mits-vs-50805-problem.html

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/mitsubishi/5966-mits-vs-50805-problem.html

BTW, I can understand the gripe from one of the guys with the "class action suit" in one of these posts....This is my third Mitsu TV in nine years. The second one lasted two weeks, and since it was a new, extended warranty replacement from the first one, Sears replaced with another new one, which is the one that is now damaged, after about five years. Qualtiy of these sets resulted very poor.

To make matters worse, I had just order a Mitsu HC6800 PJ, before the TV died...so I am very upset about the whole situation. I wrote Mitsu a letter trying to get their help with the TV repair being a repeat customer, etc...no luck......just excuses from their part. In fact, the last set was under extended warranty with Mitsu until last year, when they did not renew it, because I called after 30 days to do so. Once the tech provides me details about the repair, I plan to pursue this further with Mitsu....

In the meantime, I would appreciatte if you can point me to any post or if you have any advise of some things I might be able to try on my own....

Although I received indications that this is not a cap related issue, is there any hope that it may help to replace the caps, fuses, etc.; where are they located????, etc. I have also read, that this error messages are not that precise in pointing out the real cause of the problem???so why not try that???

Thanks, and apologize for the long post
 

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My first advice is to find a different tech. Anyone who jumps to changing boards in these sets is not someone you want to do business with. You want someone who can troubleshoot the problem. You can change boards yourself.

I can't tell you what is wrong with your set. As I pointed out, there are not clear symptom-repair relationships for 2-3 error codes in these sets. The error code points you in the right direction. From there you need to troubleshoot it to figure out what is specifically wrong. Deflection problems are usually not difficult for an experienced TV tech with the right equipment, but are not easy for DIYers without these advantages.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My first advice is to find a different tech. Anyone who jumps to changing boards in these sets is not someone you want to do business with. You want someone who can troubleshoot the problem. You can change boards yourself.

I can't tell you what is wrong with your set. As I pointed out, there are not clear symptom-repair relationships for 2-3 error codes in these sets. The error code points you in the right direction. From there you need to troubleshoot it to figure out what is specifically wrong. Deflection problems are usually not difficult for an experienced TV tech with the right equipment, but are not easy for DIYers without these advantages.
This was the tech listed in the Mitsu website. The other one listed wanted $243 just for checking the set. I will see if can get a Tech willing to troubleshoot the boards. Will have to rely on the yellow pages...

I will really hate to throw the set away,,,but that may be my only option. Just to "throw it away" is going to cost me,,,,,its on a second floor...weights 340 lbs.., and then its appropiate disposal...Thats an incentive in trying to fix it...

Thanks for your prompt reply....
 

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Call around to the local techs and see who will work on it and what kind of rates they have for an estimate. You can also pull the light box out and bring in the whole thing without the cabinet, mirror, and screen. I t might cost you less that way. They won't be able to do convergence on it after the repair, but you can likely do that yourself.
 

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Call around to the local techs and see who will work on it and what kind of rates they have for an estimate. You can also pull the light box out and bring in the whole thing without the cabinet, mirror, and screen. I t might cost you less that way. They won't be able to do convergence on it after the repair, but you can likely do that yourself.
Thks for your prompt feedback....Although the replacement boards may not be available from Mitsu..should the tech be able to get the individual/discrete components to fix the boards from other than Mitsubishi? I assume these are regular components available in the marketplance???

I will pursue looking for another TV repair shop to see if they are willing to troubleshoot/repair the boards/TV....

I looked as best as posible with a flashlight w/o taking out the main chasis were the boards are located and was not able to spot any fluid leakage (i,e; coolant?), but I will have the tech took a look as well. My first Mitsu WS-85809 died due to coolant leak and was replaced under extended warranty.

thks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I guess this would be a good opportunity to clean the lenses?? Upon visual inspection, they have some dust. What precautions/protocol should be taken to avoid damage to the lenses while cleaning them? Is this something the end user may do succesfully?
 

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Use a microfiber cloth, wipe once with a cleaner made for lenses or other safe cleaner, then change the area of the cloth. Always wipe in one motion, then change the area to a clean part of the cloth to keep from scratching the lens with the dust and debris.
 

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My first advice is to find a different tech. Anyone who jumps to changing boards in these sets is not someone you want to do business with. You want someone who can troubleshoot the problem. You can change boards yourself.

I can't tell you what is wrong with your set. As I pointed out, there are not clear symptom-repair relationships for 2-3 error codes in these sets. The error code points you in the right direction. From there you need to troubleshoot it to figure out what is specifically wrong. Deflection problems are usually not difficult for an experienced TV tech with the right equipment, but are not easy for DIYers without these advantages.
I took the back and front cover of my set looking for leaks/anomalies and took some pictures. Some of the pictures are from a covered sectionof the DM board (I think its the DM board, although on my set is different form that illustrated on some of the Cap fixing protocols I had seen). This board has the connections for the service port, the IEEE1394, antenas, digital audio, and cable card, on the back of the TV. These pictures shows an area with what appears to be corrosion, as if had been splashed by something??? However, as far as I can tell, it does not appear to be other traces on the boards or elsewhere of potential coolant leaks, although I have not been able to remove the main chasis to look more thorughly. I did poke on the back and front access openings with a flashlight a few times. In addition, this section of this board has a top (protective?) cover and its about a ft from the location of the CRT guns. A fan is on top of this cover. In addition, I took a shot at what appears to be the now, infamous, Jamison caps, four in this model. Are you able to see physical anomalies in the caps (the typical bulging cited elsewhere)..although from what I read that does not mean they are ok????

Based on your experience, what does this corrosion type spot looks to you coming from? What is the "gray box" that can be seen in some of the pictures with all that corrosion?

I am guessing this has obviously to do with the problems in my set.

I contacted another tech and am expecting a call back to see if they are able/willing to troubleshoot this problem, but would appreciate your impressions from these photos. This is my first time with photobuket, so let see if the link works...

Thks for your patience with a "newbie" on this affairs.....

http://s942.photobucket.com/albums/ad270/mariokrt64/Mitsubishi%20WS-65515%20Photos/
 

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Looks like bugs and related debris from sources external to the set.

These sets do not typically have leaks that cause corrosion, and I don't know how you could have this due to a spill of any sort and have it get to that area.

Beyond changing the DM caps and convergence repairs, the troubleshooting needed to fix these sets is likely beyond most DIYers.
 

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Looks like bugs and related debris from sources external to the set.

These sets do not typically have leaks that cause corrosion, and I don't know how you could have this due to a spill of any sort and have it get to that area.

Beyond changing the DM caps and convergence repairs, the troubleshooting needed to fix these sets is likely beyond most DIYers.
That's what I thought, a difficult spot for a leak to get in...but I did'nt thought about the posibility of bugs....since the set is kind of closed...don't see openings of any size for bugs to get in....unless there were many small bugs...but I have never seen bug traffic around the set....anyway..this looks an area for the tech to look at....BTW...how much would typically be the cost of this board....aprox...based on your expereience. Looks maybe the problem likes here..just to have an idea...

Thks.........
 

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Do you have a deflection error code or not? If you do then the DM is likely not the problem. The set needs troubleshooting to figure out what is wrong.
 
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