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Discussion Starter #1
Good Afternoon,
I have a Mitsubishi 55" wide screen, rear projection TV model # WS-55809 manufactured in October 2001. This morning I turned it on and after about 30 minutes, the TV powered off by itself. I tried to turn it back on, but it would not power on. I unplugged it, left it alone for hours and tried again, but no luck. The timer light will come on for 3 seconds and then go back off. I can hear a "click", as if it were trying to power on, but it doesn't. I read in a previous thread to hold the menu and input buttons at the same time and take notice of the light flash sequence. I did this and the sequence is 2 flashes, a pause and then another 2 flashes (2-2). Any input on this matter would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks!
Mike
 

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2-2 is a short protect, meaning one of the low voltage supplies is out of reference range. The most common cause of this is a convergence IC causing a load on the + or - 24v line.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks for the info Leonard! I was using my multimeter and poking around a bit. I found that I am not getting any continuity across 2 fuses labeled F9A04 and F9A05. Could this be a result of one of the Convergence IC Boards being faulty?
 

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It is unusual to have both fuses open, but yes, it could be due to bad ICs. I would remove the ICs and replace the fuses and see if it runs normally to be sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just wanted to give an update. I ordered the 2 pico fuses (F9A04 and F9A05) and the 2 Convergence IC's (STK392-570). After replacement, the TV powered on normally and my convergence problem has been fixed! Thanks for your help Leonard!
 

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Dirty Sound but no Picture at all...

I ordered the 2 pico fuses (F9A04 and F9A05) and the 2 Convergence IC's (STK392-570). After replacement, The tv powers on with no error codes (did have the 2-2 error before IC and fuse replacement), but there is only sound and it sounds dirty, crackles. I'm gonna go over the main board and try to find anything out of the ordinary. What else could this be? Thanks for any help.
 

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Update on post.... Disregard dirty sound. Rear sound inputs work fine. Still no video. The front inputs don't seem to work either. No error codes, and no video after replacing ic's... no blown fuses either.
 

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I found this article, but need help making sense of it...

Re: Sound but no picture (black) on Mitsubishi
WS−55805 RPHDTV
Source: http://sci.tech−archive.net/Archive/sci.electronics.repair/2006−08/msg01169.html
From: "Motorman" <[email protected]> •
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2006 02:39:43 GMT •
Here some tips from repair world hope they help: they are kind of crunch up
but I think you can read them.
Top of Form 1
&&&&&&&&&Search the Database
Category Manufacturer
Bottom of Form 1
TELEVISION MITSUBISHI WS55805 NO CONVERGENCE REPLACED BOTH STK392−040
and 2 120 OHM RESISTORS. ALSO FOUND OPEN 5A PICO FUSE ON −24V LINE − LOCATED
ON SWEEP BOARD!!! −DAVE NAHUM, YORK ELECTRONICS 8/2006
TELEVISION Mitsubishi WS55511 VS21 Won't turn on Unplug front keyboard
and if set works with the remote, check S7L22 the enter switch and replace,
also check for loose connections on LF plug.
TELEVISION Mitsubishi WS−55857 Color and tint is off...Looks like a gold
or bronze color Found that the pins on the jungle board were
"ringed"..Board is located on the pwr/defl board..Resolder pins all ok...
TELEVISION Mitsubishi WS−55511 Blue Convergence off− left and right side
(red ok) replace R8C21&R8C22 (3.9 ohm 1 watt) IC8C00 STK393−110 Mits.
part#267P155010 (use original) also check for bad solder conn. on socket VU,
Rays TV
TELEVISION MITSUBISHI WS−55313 SHUTDOWN AFTER HOT OR UNIT WONT TURN ON
C5A64 (22uF/16v) IN HV REG CKT HAS HI−ESR rcb
TELEVISION MITSUBISHI WS−55313 SHUTSDOWN REPL IHVT 334P281010 rcb
TELEVISION MITSUBISHI WS−55313 when power up, screen goes bright red with
retrace lines and shuts down. replace focas and screen control module
#129P070A10 I USED #129P059050 and it worked good. J.D.W.
TELEVISION Mitsubishi ws55807 sound no pictuce/ set in shut down shorted
green tube
TELEVISION Mitsubishi WS55511 Dead found open fuse on line to
convergence module, 9A04, also replaced conv. module STK 393−110 JVP
TELEVISION Mitsubishi ws−55311 dead set Lightning replace Volt reg IC
STRF6428 Paul @ Greves TV
TELEVISION Mitsubishi ws55311 front keyboard will not work after
lightning. Press Menu, 2−2−7−0 select power restore :ON then exit.
TELEVISION Mitsubishi WS55859 Has sound no pix 2HDW Board 935C966001 Ken
Re: Sound but no picture (black) on Mitsubishi WS−55805 RPHDTV
Re: Sound but no picture (black) on Mitsubishi WS−55805 RPHDTV 1TELEVISION MITSUBISHI WS55313 NO COLOR, INTERMITTENT COLOR REPLACE
DOUBLER, OR RESOLDER IC'S ON DOUBLER
TELEVISION Mitsubishi WS55313 No Video Check clock/data line to IC2K01.
clock coming in bad. trace at connector JB showing high resistance. Remove
line and add jumper lead. Also had to replace doubler board. Pix poor and
digitized.
TELEVISION SONY KP57WS550 Green color gets bright with retrace lines, tv
shotts off ***Replaced CRT board p#A1405079A***
TELEVISION Mitshubishi WS55819 Dark Pix − might be intermittant
ReplaceC9A65 (10uF/250V)
TELEVISION Mitsubishi WS−55809 vertical bars replace 2hdw pwb part#
935c966002
TELEVISION mitsubshi WS55809 dead−lighting D9A54 leaky
TELEVISION mitsubshi ws55311 no video has high voltage and audio no
filament found bad solder connections on Q5a26 on power board
TELEVISION Mitsubishi ws−55805 No Pix, No OSD blue tube leaking coolant
on plug RS and IC 703, cleaned plug, and signal board, pulled tube, changed
coolant, sealed tube .
Best regards
.
Re: Sound but no picture (black) on Mitsubishi WS−55805 RPHDTV
Re: Sound but no picture (black) on Mitsubishi WS−55805 RPHDTV 2
 

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So does the set power up? Have high voltage, vertical deflection, horizontal deflection, filaments, menus?
 

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The set powers on and audio works. The guns do not even turn on (don't even think there is a click or any other sound) Here is what happened... It was giving me the 2-2 fault. I ordered new ic's. A local electronics dealer sold me 7amp pico fuses and told me that it wouldn't hurt to use them instead of five amps (overcharged me and didn't have five amp fuses). I replaced the fuses and the set tried to turn on then gave me the same error, but didn't re-blow the fuses. The ic's came in and now tv turns on with audio but no video. It gave me a 2-3 (hor conv error?) error once after replacing ic's, but won't shut off or post any errors now. Sorry about the confusing post. Thanks for any help. Merry XMAS :)
 

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If you have sound, then the main power supply is running. Sounds like a secondary low voltage regulator that might be down, but just a guess. This requires more troubleshooting that is beyond the scope of this forum.
 

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Hello, I'm new here. I found this thread while Googling for a solution to my brother-in-law's Mitsu power-on problem.

I'll go ahead and source the parts and get them ordered. I have no problem reworking the board that they're on. However, does anyone have a set of photos that show which of the circuit boards the convergence IC's and the fuses are mounted on?

They were practically given this tv, and since they're really hurting financially right now, I'd really like to get it back up and running for the kids.

Any pointers would be helpful. Thanks.
 

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Please start a new thread and include the details of the model number, the symptoms, the troubleshooting and observations you made, where you are getting parts and for how much, etc. More detail will prove more helpful to others and will result in you getting the most effective help if someone has what you need. Keeping the threads separated keeps the forum better organized.
 

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Sorry. I have the same symptoms and model as the OP in this thread, that's why I jumped in here. I'll post the source as soon as I have a chance to find one -- hopefully this evening.
 

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Thank you!

Parts will be ordered in the morning.

However, I could still use some pointers towards which board those fuses live on. I'm sure with enough light, I can find the convergence IC's. Also, since my bro-in-law lives 4 hours away, I want to make sure I have everything I need -- are the chips socketed or soldered to the board?

Thank you.
 

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Hi Malessi,

Where did you order the fuses and ICs? Online or at local store?

Thanks!
Yang

Just wanted to give an update. I ordered the 2 pico fuses (F9A04 and F9A05) and the 2 Convergence IC's (STK392-570). After replacement, the TV powered on normally and my convergence problem has been fixed! Thanks for your help Leonard!
 

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Look at the link in post 15 above for suggestions for reliable parts distributors.
 

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Hey Malessi,

Could you please let me know where you ordered the fuses and ICs? From online or local store? And when you ordered, did you go by part number, or the electric parameters? For example, did you order fuses by F9A04, or 5A 25V?

Thank you.
Yang

Just wanted to give an update. I ordered the 2 pico fuses (F9A04 and F9A05) and the 2 Convergence IC's (STK392-570). After replacement, the TV powered on normally and my convergence problem has been fixed! Thanks for your help Leonard!
 

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Worked like a charm.

Since nobody posted instructions on how to get to or find the parts, here's a quick synopsis (All of this assumes that you've unplugged the set and let it sit for at least a week. You don't want to get anywhere close to the HV power supply if anything still has a charge left....)

First, you need to remove the fiberboard back of the set. Once that's done, you will notice that the three main circuit boards are all on a removable plastic frame. There are three large wood screws across the bottom edge that keep it in place. Remove those screws, and then feel at the front right and left edge of the frame for plastic catches that hook into slots in the bottom of the cabinet. Once those are released, you can begin the process of de-harnessing the frame so that you can pull it out.

I unplugged every harness and connecting cable with the exception of the HV leads for the CRT guns. These are the heavy red wires on the right side of the frame, and one heavy white one. You can gently slide the frame out and rotate it away from the cabinet if you're careful -- just don't damage the HV leads. Note that I used my iPhone and a flashlight to document each and every harness that I removed to prevent fatal brain lock upon reassembly...

The two convergence IC's are big, heavy, flat-pak chips with a single row of pins, clamped to the main 4" by roughly 8" finned heatsink in the middle of the middle circuit board. To unsolder them, you really need to remove the middle board from the frame. Locate the screws that hold the board down, including the two that also hold down the perforated metal cage near the back. Undo the three screws that hold the IC clamping bar to the heat sink. Pull the bar away. Then remove the three hold-down screws for the heat sink. It will tend to flop back at this point -- you can genly pry it away from the chips and place it somewhere where the thermal grease won't mess up the wife's good tablecloth...

Notice the ribbon connectors along both edges that connect the center board to the outside boards -- they are soldered on the outside end, and are plugged into sockets on the center board. Very gently pop the plugs from the sockets and bend them back just enough to clear the board. You can then very gently remove the center circuit board from the frame and place it somewhere sane like a kitchen table covered with newspaper or a real workbench.

Conveniently, both the IC's and the two fuses are on the center board, and are actual components with leads, not tiny little surface-mount stuff like you have on the two outboard circuit cards... Whew.

Once you have the board inverted and properly supported, use a good, fine-tipped soldering iron (I have a Metcal professional reworking iron with a 1/16" tip, so it's easy to hit one pin at a time) and the solder sucker of your choice (mine is a nice heavy Soldapullt) to desolder both IC's. If you've done the job right, they should practically fall out of the board. Then carefully put each replacement in one at a time, prop it up from underneath, and solder it back in taking care not to bridge any traces. Then solder the second one in.

Now locate the two fuses -- their names are silk-screened on the top of the board, so it's pretty easy to follow them to the underside. Desolder them and remove, then using a fine needle-nose pliers gently form the leads on the replacement fuses, insert and solder, again making sure there's no bridges and none of your desoldering splatter is stuck to the board.

Clean the old thermal goo off the heat sink, put fresh goo in both spots.

Now carefully replace the board in the frame and replace the screws. Put the heatsink back in place, taking care that the IC's are positioned flat against it. Once the three hold-down screws are in, put the clamping bar back on and tighten those screws in rotation so the chips are evenly clamped to the heatsink.

Carefully reconnect the ribbon connectors, slide the frame most of the way back into the slots and start reconnecting the cables, putting them back into the looming loops as best you can. Like any good project, there's no possible way to get everything tied up the way it came from the factory, so just do your best....

then slide the frame all the way forward until the catches snap back into place, replace the three wood screws along the front, replace the back board, and then perform the Magic Smoke Test.

Essentially, make sure that there is nothing blocking your path to the nearest door and plug the TV back in. have someone hit the "on" button, and if no Magic Smoke escapes from the back, you should get a picture.

My nieces and nephews are now convinced that I'm some sort of minor deity. And I found out later that my sister-in-law's brother, who watched the whole thing, just refused to believe that I wasn't an actual TV repair guy.

Oh, well. That's what 30 years of electronics, computers and Ham Radio will get ya...
 
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