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Discussion Starter #61 (Edited)
If you read a few pages of starting from here...
OK, I see it now. I apologize for being in a hurry and not looking more carefully at all 8 pages of that PDF document. Apparently I had a major brain fart. :dontknow: It certainly does couple the driver to the box via the magnet brace.

Interesting concept. I don't think that it would be trivial to implement, though, because you'd have to be pretty much "spot on" (as the British say) with the dimensions to ensure a snug fit into the magnet.

Progress report: all 24 panels (to make both boxes) have been cut! Time to fire up the router.

Bradley

P.S. If this box design turns out to be a flop, I can always order up some 24" or 30" sonotube. ;)
 

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The vent on the back of the driver should ideally have clearance equal to its diameter as well
Do you know the diameter of the pole vent on the Rl-p? I can't find that spec anywhere. I know TC just recommended a min of .8" clearance for the TC-2000.
 

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Discussion Starter #64 (Edited)
Do you know the diameter of the pole vent on the Rl-p? I can't find that spec anywhere. I know TC just recommended a min of .8" clearance for the TC-2000.
The magnet vent hole is flared so that makes it harder to measure. Earlier today I just grabbed a tape measure to get a quick approximate measurement. Seemed like about an inch and a half. But I will see if I can get my caliper in there and produce a more accurate number.

Edit: it's no more than 1.375 inches. I stuck the jaws of the dial caliper in as far as I could while keeping it square with the back of the driver and the hole. I think I got close to the "bottom" of the flare, so that number probably isn't too far off.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
I guess I will just compromise and move the tube back half an inch. It's not the end of the world if the port outlet is 7.5" from the rear wall instead of 8. It has ample clearance in all other directions: 11.5" to side wall, 8" to top and bottom walls, 10.625 to front wall. Also, the MDF brace doesn't look like a "wall" to the magnet vent. Moving half an inch away will put it 1 3/8" from the vent hole instead of the ideal 1 1/2 inches. That isn't too bad considering a) the brace is only 3/4" thick and will have rounded edges, and b) the port tube outer wall (a much more significant "obstacle") will sit 2 5/8 inches from the rear of the magnet.
Update:

Since the magnet vent hole seems to be 1 3/8" diameter, the center brace is now exactly one diameter from the vent hole. :T

Measuring precisely from the edge of the main port opening (and not even thinking about the port wall thickness) to the rear wall is 7 9/16". The port I.D. is right around 8 3/8". So the discrepency in port placement is 8.2%. I don't think I'm going to lose sleep over that.

(note: this picture diagram doesn't take into account port wall thickness of approx 1/8")

 

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I don't think that running a clipped signal of 500-600 W will/can do any harm to the RL-P18, It will sound very vey bad though!... And I would never be afraid of bottoming out an RL-P18 (80 mm P-P:eek:) with such power even tuned at 16 Hz....(I'm using 2KW amp/driver...) Trust me:yes:
 

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Bradley said:
Since the magnet vent hole seems to be 1 3/8" diameter, the center brace is now exactly one diameter from the vent hole.

Measuring precisely from the edge of the main port opening (and not even thinking about the port wall thickness) to the rear wall is 7 9/16". The port I.D. is right around 8 3/8".
I salute your effort to get it done right :clap:
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Cut my first circle last night! :jump:



What a mess... :eek:



If I don't die from MDF dust poisoning, these subs are gonna rock. :D

 

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Discussion Starter #71
Posted these pics over on AVS, if anyone didn't see them already...







Getting there. That is/was certainly the most complex piece in the whole "puzzle".
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Thanks. I love the Audi too. ;) It's a 2002 S4. Twin turbo V6 and all-wheel-drive... go together like peas an' carrots. :D I'm a little bit ashamed that I don't take better care of it, though. The paint has taken quite a beating: so many rock chips and scratches. No door dings, though! (Knock on wood.) A few years ago used to look like this.

OK, finished my cup of coffee. Better head back down to the "shop" (garage) and resume the MDF pulverization process. More pictures to come later today or tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Here it is... the fruits of my labor. Almost everything I need to build these two 17 ft^3 (net volume) subs:





May not look like much, but was it a lot of work! I can't help thinking about how much easier a sonotube would have been. ;) But I'm finally ready to start gluing things together.

On a side note, my flush trim bit isn't looking so hot! To think it was sparkly fresh and new just a week and a half ago.





Sure do have a LOT of scraps left over. Already thinking about what I can make out of these leftovers. Hmmm...

 

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Discussion Starter #79
Well, this past weekend the bearing fell right off my flush trim bit! :eek: Luckily I realized there is a small screw that holds it on and was able to put it back together. :) My 1/4" cutting bit is getting pretty dull, that's for sure.
 

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Man I need to buy some extra router bits. Isn't mdf dust great.

Question for you are you using wood glue or liquid nails for glue up.
 
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