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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have a small project with an EHQS 8 and a 70 W Dayton Plate Amp with a 4" Dia. port at 13" long to give a tuning of 25 Hz in a 12" Dia x 36 " Long tubing. Problem is I would like to mount the amp in the tubing and I have been fiddling with ideas on how to do this. Any one ever did anything like this and have a step by step guide as to how they went about it. Pictures of this would also be appreciated as well. The idea to just mount the amp on the other end was bought forward to me already, the sub will be down firing and I don't find that configuration that appealing, especially with a little son that is very inquisitive about my other system these days. Thank you again for your input.
 

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Not really. It's basically an MDF box with a curved back that I glued directly to the tube. Getting the curve right took time but wasn't hard. There is a small hole drilled to pass the wires through the side of the tube. I wanted to cut into the side of the tube as little as possible because I didnt' want to compromise it's strength.

I have more pictures of this part - I'll post them when I get home.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How did you go about building the box and attaching it to the tube? Please excuse me if I am asking too many questions but I really am interested in doing this.
 

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Basically made a box that was open on two ends. The flat end was sized so it just fit the size of the amp (which screwed right into the sides of the box). The other open side was curved to fit the contour of the sonotube. That side was glued directly to the cardboard of the tube. The amp was mounted and the wires run through a small hole drilled into the side of the sonotube (and then sealed with Amazing Goop). The inside of where the box mates with the tube was also sealed with Amazing Goop.

It is not flush fit like the SVSound ones. I have no idea how to do that in a way that would be strong enough / worthwhile. This way sticks out by however deep the amp is (3" or so for the PE 70 watt amp).

I found the pictures I was looking for on another forum. I hope these help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Whoa thank you. Just this morning I was looking through the PE catalogue for the amp dimensions. What dimensions did you use to make your box, I would like to have a guideline to follow please. The thing about cutting into the tube is no issue really since it's going to be some very dense PVC but I don't have the tools to cut into it any ways so the box idea is good and I can always rasp and sand to get the contour right after I cut and mock it up. Then it would probably be a matter of using some kind of small "L" clamps to attach it to the tube and glue it down for over kill. What do you think?
 

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I don't recall the dimensions - I measured the amp and made it to fit. I imagine to attach to PVC you could use epoxy or drill holes and screw it in from the inside. I thought about doing the latter with the sonotube but I thought the cardboard wouldn't take it well. PVC should take is without any problems. In fact that is how I attached the tweeter baffle on my frankenspeakers (see link in my sig).
 

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PVC is way stiffer than cardboard. If you wanted to make the amp more flush mounted I bet you could cut a hole to fit the amp into. You'd still have to make an "amp box" so the flat amp can seal around the curved surface of the tube but it wouldn't stick out so much.

Double check the amp isn't too wide first of course.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well the PVC is a 12 inch Dia. so I do not think the amp would be too wide. I am more worried about cutting into the PVC because that seem to be the most miserable task of all. All I have access to is a Jig saw at the moment so I have not been able to find another saw that would do the trick.
 

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Anyone thought of attempting to match what SVS does on their subs? I'm thinking of cutting a hole in the tube to pass the amplifier through, and making a box to fit on the inside of the tube. You would be matching the inner curve, rather than the outer and would have a lip to attach the amp to. The important thing to do would be to seal the enclosure properly.

Think of the upper and lower portions of the inverted amp box as curved fronts to match the I.D. of the tube and square back edges. The sides would be slightly beveled to match up with the curvature of the tube. You would attach the new sub box by glueing and screwing to the tube (possibly Liquid Nails or PL400?) I would imagine you may need to do some fairing to the edge of the tube with bondo or other like material. Then you would make a box which would essentially attach to the existing box which would form the lip for the amp to sit against and attach to. Same type or screwed and glued attachment (probably all assembled first, then attached to the tube.

I'll be busy during the holidays, but I'm going to give this a shot after New Year's. I'll keep you all posted if it works out.
 

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Anyone thought of attempting to match what SVS does on their subs?
Actually and easy way to get the curve to match the inner diameter is to cut it close, but a little proud. Use some spray glue to attach sandpaper to the inside of a piece of scrap sonotube. Now you have a sanding jig that will fit the exact curve of the sonotube. Slide your slightly oversized piece up and down that jig and voila! A perfect match.

I have never done this because even my small 70 watt amp is 10" wide. The largest sonotube I've used is 16" so the hole that I would need to cut would be very large indeed! In this case I'd be too scared of compromising the self-supporting strength of the tube.

In the "Stubby" sub above the hole that was cut into the sonotube was much smaller - a 1/4" drill bit to pass wires through.
 

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That's exactly what I was talking about! Looks so nice and clean. Theoretically the box shap should take all the load for the removed section of tubing. I like the bracing idea too, I'll probably incorporate that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well this project got initialized about 3 or 4 days ago and I made alot of progress today. Details: EHQS 8 (1), Dayton 70 watt plate amp, PVC 37" long; 12" external Dia. (11.6875" internal Dia.); 0.5" Thick (it's really heavy without all of the other stuff in it). Made the end caps, mounted a box for the amp (it was supposed to be flush with PVC but due to miscalculations I now have a vent will be covering the top and the bottom of the amp box with some sort of metallic grille painted black so the hole created can act like a vent). It will have a 3.75" Dia. port at 22" long tunig it to 25 Hz or there about. These are some shots I took of it just a while ago.

Top



Side



Amp box mounted



And one of the legs just for you to get an idea of the thickness of this thing

 
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