Home Theater Forum and Systems banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

Seems like I change my mind on how I'm going to proceed every week here... But I put up the 4x8 of MDF and was just not happy with how small I had to reduce the overall picture size to get it to fit. So... I'd said phooey on it, and I decided to just paint the wall. And started work immediately.

The problem is the wall has heavy texturing... and so I've just spent the last 4 hours sanding down the wall with a power sander... and I am still not done. I bet I have another 2 hours to go... It really really sucks to sand down large areas like this.

After (if) I finish sanding it down, and patching one large hole from a door being swung open way too far, I am going to give it a coat of Kilz. Do I really need to use my low nap special 9'' roller for the prime coat or can I use the regular roller and save the low nap one for the paint? I'm guessing its best to use the low nap one all the way through. After the first coat of Kilz there will probably be a few low areas from the power sander taking a divot out here and there so I'll use some mud to fill those in, let dry, sand smooth. Then I am planning on putting down a 2nd coat of Kilz, sand smooth, and then hopefully be ready to paint this beggar. :) I'll update with pictures as I go.

E.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,234 Posts
Welcome to the Shack and sorry to hear about it being so hard to make up your mind... there are lots of good options though!

I wish you would have spoken up first though because I may have been able to saved you a ton of time and heartache as well as you might even be watching your projector right now!

Rough walls can be a killer, but it is definitely manageable and can be easier than people think. I speak from first hand experience here! Just about everything anyone needs to know can be found in the stickies, such as a link to working with rough walls. I'm not sure if you are finished, this method is definitely worth looking into if not.
 

·
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
3,772 Posts
I've never done what you are doing and never worked with drywall so my advice only holds until something better comes along. :)

Try to be very careful about making divots in the wall, but I understand if you get some; sanding like that for hours is a lot of work!

When it comes to painting your wall, I would use a 1/4" nap roller for the primer as well as the screen paint. The lower the nap on the roller the smoother the paint finish. If you use a higher nap for the primer you would have to sand it down to get it as smooth as if you used a lower nap roller to begin with so I would think using the lower nap to start would save time.

As I understand things (I'm sooo not a roller, I spray) if your wall is smooth you shouldn't have to sand the second coat of Kilz.

The one thing I do know is that the final finish is only as smooth as the roughest coat, don't depend on a smooth coat making up for a rough coat. In my experience it doesn't work that way.

OK, I see Bill answered while I was writing this. Just ignore what I said and go with his advice. :bigsmile:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
I just got done doing this exact same thing myself. I actually went the opposite route and built up my wall, rather then sanding it down. I put two coats of taping compound, sanded the second coat, put a coat of topping compound, and then sanded that too. The whole time I smoothed the wall out with a largest blade I could find and a level I taped to the blade to make sure I was as straight as possible. After that, I put my primer coats on and then the final screen paint coat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks for your replies gentlemen,

I did read the sticky about working with rough walls.. but it was like 10pm and I wanted to get working. I also didn't think it would take me 6 hours to sand down a wall hhahaha but anyways, the wall is smooth now. I am waiting for some joint compound to dry in a marble sized hole in the dry wall so I will be out of action for at least a couple of hours.

Give me 5 Mins and Ill upload some pictures to this post. :)



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Ok so, sanding complete..
Here's a picture of my projector btw... with a cheap ebay mount that is supposed to be for proj upto 22lbs, but doesnt come anywhere near being able to hold pitch, roll, or yaw adjustment for my 17 lb Planar. I think it would actually be functional for like a 10lb'er. So anyways, I had to balance it using rolls of nickels discretely hidden in the cable bay. Its ok but I obviously try to avoid touching it at all costs.




Here's a fun shot of the projector on against the weird multicolor wall at the moment. Kind of cool looking.


I put down the first coat of Kilz. It was very difficult to get a nice even coat using the tiny 9" low nap roller. But after a while this is what I got:
I am not sure what that square spot it, I think its just a darker section... Ill make sure I get it well with the 2nd coat...


Thoughts and advice? Please :)

Edit: Im having troubles with roller marks, I will improve my technique on the 2nd coat, but its very difficult to get a good result with the 9'' roller .. I also tend to run out of paint about halfway down a vertical stroke with this smaller roller...it just doesnt hold alot of paint!

I think I am done for the night.. .I have a multilayer perceptron neural net calling my name from MATLAB :(
 

·
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
3,772 Posts
It looks like things are coming together. :T

I would put as many coats of primer on as is necessary to get a fairly even appearance to the screen before I put on the C&S. From my limited experience rolling, the C&S will go on easier than the primer.

My guess would be that the square block is an area that for one reason or another is absorbing more primer than the rest of the wall. :dontknow: One of the jobs of a primer is to seal areas that do that. Wait until the first coat is dry before putting on the second coat otherwise this sealing effect will be lessened.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Cream and Sugar - 2 Coats.



I wanted to go with Scorpion N8 for a short time but after an extensive calling around and my inability to find AAA-fine locally, I just decided to go with C&S for now. I put down 2 coats of C&S on top of 4 coats of primer - all with a foam roller. The foam roller doesnt put down a lot of paint but with the right technique does not leave visible roller marks.
If I had to do it again, I would have gone with Liner Paper, it was nearly impossible to get the surface totally flat, it currently has some small irregularities in it but only visible under normal light inspection.. everything looks great with the projector on.. and thats all that really matters. That and the liner paper wouldnt have required 6 hours of power sanding.

Finished Product.



I built a border using pine-it was difficult to get straight pieces but it was significantly cheaper than all the other options. I did some straightening as I nailed it into place using the studs and nail positioning.

For the border I covered it in velveteen. Velvet was just way too expensive and I thought I'd give this a try. I didn't buy a continuous piece but instead bought several 3'' x ~54'' strips and staggered them with some overlap around the frame. Wrapping the corners of the pieces nicely was a total PITA. It looks good with the lights out and projector on. But in the daylight I can see the overlapping pieces.. I'm sure this bothers no one but me.. but it does bug me. Not enough to pay $80 for velvet though. The velveteen does indeed soak up a lot of light though. I was impressed.

As far as C&S goes... I'm not thrilled with the black levels (with all other lights out- I do all my viewing in the dark, no ambient light) (my white ceiling could also be contributing to this)...but everyone else around my house, who doesn't know much about projectors, says it looks great to them. I have a thing for really inky blacks and I can't say I'd recommend C&S for people who really feel the same way. I may switch to Scorpion or BW in the future but that would require moving the border which is currently nailed in place..... so I'm just going to enjoy it as is for now.

I'm going to update this with some action shots when I can borrow a better digital camera.

Thanks again for all the information and those who put hard work into developing C&S and all the rest of the knowledge available around here.

:)

E.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,234 Posts
As far as C&S goes... I'm not thrilled with the black levels (with all other lights out- I do all my viewing in the dark, no ambient light) (my white ceiling could also be contributing to this)...but everyone else around my house, who doesn't know much about projectors, says it looks great to them. I have a thing for really inky blacks and I can't say I'd recommend C&S for people who really feel the same way. I may switch to Scorpion or BW in the future but that would require moving the border which is currently nailed in place..... so I'm just going to enjoy it as is for now.

Congrats on the build! :)

As far as the above, I'm not sure I would say people that don't know much about projectors... At this point it is also a matter of tastes and preferences. Some people prefer whites as white as possible, while others want their blacks as dark as possible.

One of the beauty of DIY is that it doesn't cost people an arm and a leg to audition various shades to determine what they like the best. I'm in your camp, I like blacks to be like a black hole if possible!
 

·
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
3,772 Posts
As far as C&S goes... I'm not thrilled with the black levels (with all other lights out- I do all my viewing in the dark, no ambient light) (my white ceiling could also be contributing to this)...but everyone else around my house, who doesn't know much about projectors, says it looks great to them. I have a thing for really inky blacks and I can't say I'd recommend C&S for people who really feel the same way. I may switch to Scorpion or BW in the future but that would require moving the border which is currently nailed in place..... so I'm just going to enjoy it as is for now.
Black levels are something that is quite subjective. I am like you in that I want my blacks as black as I can get them, which never seems to be black enough. I'm one of the few that mourn the passing of CRT television sets for just that reason.

As I mentioned in the first post of the C&S thread, I was originally using CSMS to try and get a darker mix than BW when the potential N9 mixes we were testing failed for one reason or another. I then decided to try using CSMS to make an N9 and the rest is history.

Since C&S isn't giving you the blacks you desire even in lights-out conditions I would recommend either going with Scorpion N8 or even moving straight to BW depending on how much darker you want your blacks.

It might make an interesting experiment to get some inexpensive black fabric and temporarily mount it on your ceiling to test how much it is a factor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Congrats on the build! :)

As far as the above, I'm not sure I would say people that don't know much about projectors... At this point it is also a matter of tastes and preferences. Some people prefer whites as white as possible, while others want their blacks as dark as possible.

One of the beauty of DIY is that it doesn't cost people an arm and a leg to audition various shades to determine what they like the best. I'm in your camp, I like blacks to be like a black hole if possible!
Sorry, to clarify "those who dont know much about projetors".... I meant my roommates who would think it looked the exact same if it was on on the white textured wall or on a dark grey piece of slate... they just don't have the discerning eye, if you know what I mean. But, I admit, it is a matter of preference as you said, and I lean towards the blackhole black persuasion.

But I'd still reiterate to anyone who reads this, if you like black blacks.. think about going darker than C&S. Thanks Harp for your thoughts, I think in the near future I will follow up on them.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top