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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all.

I've set my heart on mixing and evaluating a so called "simple mix" paint with ingredients found in Sweden. Ideally we can find ingredients found in all of Europe.

So, its all based on the research of Harpmakers and HTS gurus.

The silver ingredient I have bought is from http://www.pandurohobby.se. It's called "Hobbylack". The odd thing is that you can not find it on their homepage. But looking in their web version of catalogue:
http://viewer.zmags.com/showmag.php?mid=hpgqf&preview=1&_x=1#/page218
You find it as color number 69. It is a "no-rainbow-effect" acrylic silver.

I am investigating the correct OEM name, because the Swedish company has their own lables on it and refuse to talk about were it comes from.

...to be continued...
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
new intel...

I managed to squize my self into the company headquarter and get hold of some one in the purchasing dept. To my astonishment, they actually buy the silver paint prelabled directly from Pebeo. So, my bad.

What I instead did was to ask for their health and safety information about this paint. Hopefully I will be able to match this one to one of the paints on Pebeos home page.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Another day in the glorious search for the holy N9 :)

During normal shoping withv the wify, I slipped into a paint shop. There I saw that they do sell gold and silver paint by the litre. Still pricy, about the same volume-price I payed for the 250ml bottle. They had painted samples. The dry sample was silver shiny with no identifiable flakes. Just silver.

Is that what I should be looking for?

Anyway, at home I took a deep breath and mixed white gloss 5 with the silver I bought previously. Ratio 2 white : 1 silver. Up with the sample board. One coat before going to bed and another coat this morning. I will take pictures.

Now, a question to the likes of Harp and mech....and please excuse me for my ignorence...why the silver paint? Are we using the silver paint to obtain a perfect color balanced N9? So the actual "shiny" property of the silver is not relevant here. We are not creating a "dark mirror", right? It's just a way to obtain gray that otherwise is very hard to create?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, all I can say, it seems to work :yay2:

My sample board has cured 18 hours beside a very gentle heating element.

Up on the wall it gently deepens the black but still gives "punch" in the white. I have not tuched the calibration. It is impossible to do that with such a small sample 0.5m x 0.8m. So for my naked eye it seemed that very bright scenes, every so littlte tilted to the blue but with basically the same brightness.

Up really really close to the screen with a bright picture you can see millions of tiny tiny flakes shining back at you :T

The positive effect is more obvious if you let some stray light in. Then you clearly see that the black on the white is grey and the black on the grey is darker than the black on the white which is grey :coocoo:

Just kidding, the grey effect is very clear in romms with lack of light control.

So, anyone said that they could analyse my mix? :praying:

PS I will try to get pictures...just have to steal the cam from my kids...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
About curing, yes you are correct.

After fooling around yesterday the sample actually felt "damp" even though it was dry to the touch. I have again put it against our heating element in the kitchen again to let it cure 100% for a couple of days. The fact of the matter is that I applied the color with a paint brush. And I rushed the second layer after only 10 hours drying (without heat). So I have two thick layers that need curing.

On the “to do list” of the day, I am going to get my hands on a sample of ultra-flat white paint. I felt the gloss of the sample was “borderline” for me. Then I shall do a small sample mix to be analyzed.

Secondly I am going to get in touch with the engineers of the large suppliers in Sweden of Silver Paint. This to determine whether they use mica (iridescent) or aluminum. (my guess is that they do not use pure silver :p)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Curing finished after several days close to a heating element of my house. Now it is really dry to the tuch.

Unfortunatelly the battery charger of the camera is misplaced. I will try to get another camera somehow.

In my opinion there is a viewing cone attached with this mix. Whith my flat pure white wall I get very close to a lambertian spread of reflection. But with the mix you have to sit down to increase the gain. Now if this is due to resulting exess in gloss or a result of the aluminum flakes or lastly due to the fact that I painted my sample with a paint brush, I do not know.

My problem is that we use our screen for games as well, and not to seldom standing up (guitar hero, and various wee-games). So I am afraid that I will loose gain standing up. Any way, I will shortly send a few samples for spectro-analysis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
To Harpmaker ; custard ; mechman ; wbassett

Fantastic feedback on my mixes I sent. Can you post the diagrams on my thread?

I will buy another silver (with guaranteed aluminum) and another white base soon and send it to you.
 
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