Specs:
Cabinet: 214L, 20" sonotube
Tuning: 15.4 Hz
Driver: 15" Dayton DVC385-88 (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-190)
Port: Precision Port 4" flared port
Binding Posts: Dayton Audio Gold Speaker Binding Post
Speaker Grill (for port hole): 10" 2-pc steel mesh speaker grill
Endcaps: 1.5" MDF - 1" inside, 0.5" outside
Endcap Finish: 2 coats of grey primer, 8 coats of black gloss spray paint, and 4 coats of clear lacquer - wet sanded with 600 grit between every two coats
I tuned it with a BFD.
It currently attached to my Panasonic 54" RPTV, but is scheduled to move downstairs to my soon to be finished dedicated Home Theatre.
The pics are very old, and I have no build pics.
The sub is 50.5" tall. Here it stands next to one of my PSB Century 600i main speakers.
The 4" flared Precision Port vents out of the top endcap. To cover the hole I routed a 0.5" circle and inserted the 10" steel mesh speaker grill for a flush look.
I decided to mount the endcap to a baseplate using a tripod configuration. The legs are made of 2" oak cut to 4.5" length.
I mounted three leg brackets to the endcap. I bought double threaded bolts at Home Depot which I screwed into the top of the leg and then into the leg bracket. Then I simply drilled three holes through the 0.75" base plate and bolted the base to the bottom of the legs with big lag bolts.
Its pretty solid!
I used these gold speaker binding posts. The rear post is only 1" long so I had to countersink the posts a little on each side of the 1.5" thick endcap.
I think I purchased all the parts at Parts Express at the time.
Its a 250W plate amp. I think it came from MCM Electronics back in the day... It has no back cover for it so I had to make a little MDF square thingy it could sit in. I remember it had an artificial bass boost that could be eliminated by changing a resistor on the board.
The sub has a black sock over it now so looks a little better than the cheesy paint I had on it. I bought some seamless t-shirt material stuff from a local fabric store and stretched it over.
Oh, and the amp is fed by a BFD. I just discovered the Room EQ Wizard here on this site!! I'll have to read up on it as the sono is scheduled to move downstairs to the new dedicated Home Theatre (basement is just being finished).
I recall many moons ago spending about 4 hours with an SPL meter, a CD of test tones and a spreadsheet mapping out the response and EQing it flat. Drove my wife insane...
Oh, and the amp is fed by a BFD. I just discovered the Room EQ Wizard here on this site!! I'll have to read up on it as the sono is scheduled to move downstairs to the new dedicated Home Theatre (basement is just being finished).
I recall many moons ago spending about 4 hours with an SPL meter, a CD of test tones and a spreadsheet mapping out the response and EQing it flat. Drove my wife insane...
That's funny!!! My wife want's to be GONE if I'm doing testing (not always good since it usually involves her shopping). I try to do most of it very late (after 11:30pm) when she's fast asleep - works fine if all the doors a shut.
:huh: i don't know if i'm doing this PM right if not can you help me...thanks
i would like to say that your sonotube subwoofers are the perfect size for me and i really like the build. it looks quite professional.
i'm new to subwoofer building and the home theater shack, and i saw your sonotube subwoofer and i would like to build a pair for my self. would it be possible for you to share full details of your build to me.
Well, you didn't PM me, you posted to my build thread, but that's probably good considering your question.
Unfortunately, I built my sub over 7 years ago. I don't really have any more details available than what you see above. To be honest, there's not much more to it than what you see up above....
Get some sonotube, make some plugs for each end of the tube, cut out the holes for the driver and port, line it with some dampening, paint the plugs, assemble.
There's some technical details WRT tuning it for the port length and internal volume, these calculations will vary based on your choice of driver, so you'll need to know the specs of the driver you choose. I think I used WinISD to do this step.
It was a fair bit of learning, and I have likely forgotten it all, but if you break the project down into baby steps, you can usually find some good info in threads here or on other HT forums.
If you have specific questions I can try to answer them.
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