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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys. I am new here, and would like to thank MHI for showing me this forum. Respect to all you guys for all the hard work, and sharing your experience and knowledge with others.

Like i mentioned at the beginning, this is my first post ( not counting paddle thread posts), and would like to hear your opinion and advice regarding plans for my first projection system.

At the beginning, i planned, to make my screen, just like MHI did, using adhesive vinyl. The only problem was, that the screen size is kind of limited up to 95in. Than I saw, that MHI went Black Widow Ultra route, and from what I have seen, I am very impressed. Even MHI said that compering those two screens is like night and day.
So I decided that i could do the same.

Since it is a living room setup, and we will be watching movies/sports/tv, I need a screen that could perform well in ambient light.
My PJ is Panasonic AR100u (2800 lumens), which will be ceiling mounted 12-16ft from the screen. We have creamy/magnolia walls (sorry I am not good withe the colors), but they can be painted as well.
Now here is the tricky thing regarding seating distance and picture size.
I got three couches positioned in U shape, the furthest one will probably be 15ft from the screen.
Now the screen size. Before i bought this projector, my plan was to make 95in vinyl screen. As soon as a fired my PJ up, i already knew that I can go bigger than that. However my wife and I have slightly different visual perception. So I decided, instead of making a fixed screen, just paint the whole wall with black widow ultra paint. This will give me some flexibility in screen size, based on the contest we will be watching, based on my and my wife perception, and how many people will be watching, as they gonna seat in 8-15ft range.
The wall that i will project is 12ft x 8ft but i can only use 12 x 5 since i have to put speakers and all audio equipment underneath.

I have read, that with a bright projector you recommend a grey paint without AAA base. However I really liked the results on MHI pictures.
If you can give some advice, regarding paint, and other things, since you have more experience than me

Thanks in advance for all instructions and tips. I really appreciate your help. I will try to upload some pictures to show my current setup..
 

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I think you've got a good handle on things. You really probably could go either way - with or without the AAA. But the AAA doesn't really add all that much to the cost so why wouldn't you? How big is the wall that you're painting?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the whole wall is 12 x 8, but i will only be able to use 12 x 5 as a screen.

how much will AAA improve the brightness with ambient light or in daylight?
 

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I've never completed the full fledged testing on BW Ultra™ so I'm unsure how much it improves the brightness. The old AAA used to bump up the whites roughly .4 or so while keeping the same black levels as a similar shade of gray.

With ambient light, you're really just looking for the gray of the screen to help with the blacks. With your pj, you may be able to go all the way down to a N7. I'd recommend getting samples of a N7 and N8 though and seeing which might work best for you with some test panels.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Mech.

So i can use Sherwin-Williams ProClassic satin tinted with either veil or dover grey and AAA base fine in 4:1 ratio.
Please correct me if i am wrong.
 

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I'd wait for Harp on that Sherwin Williams selection. He is our finish guy for a lot of different paints. If it were a Valspar, I could point you the right way. But I've never used Pro Classic Satin. Satin usually hotspots.
 

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Thanks a lot.

In the meantime, which valspar paint would you recommend?
We are currently recommending the use of Valspar Signature in matte finish. If you want to use a more highly regarded paint by professional painters then go with Sherwin-Williams Duration in matte finish.

When I sprayed several test screens with SW ProClassic satin I didn't get any hot spotting, but later some people that rolled their ProClassic said they did see some. :dontknow: I would NOT add AAA-F (or any other reflective agent) to ProClassic even if I sprayed it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Really appreciate your input guys.
I am going to check dover grey and veil, and decide which one works better for me.
What kind of material do you usually use as a testing panel?
 

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Really appreciate your input guys.
I am going to check dover grey and veil, and decide which one works better for me.
What kind of material do you usually use as a testing panel?
If you're going to paint the whole wall, I'd just use that. :T
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sorry for the delay. Been a little busy lately
Here is a quick update.
Did some testing, which shade of gray should i to with. Narrowed it down to either vail or dover grey. It was hard to compare as I painted 8 A4 format adhesive paper (from home depot), and sticked to the wall. From my observation, dover grey is they way to go.

I have patched whole wall. Just put the second coat. As soon as it dries, I am going to sand it down using 220 sand paper.

Now, i have two question regarding spraying. I will use Valspar signature paint, do I need to put primer before, or since this paint is already primer+paint i can skip it?

Also, what is the best way to check that the paint has proper thickens, before spraying it on the wall.


My wife, gave me a deadline till Thanksgiving, to finish up with this project. Any final tips are welcome.

thank you guys for help.
 

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Hey there!!

I am in the same process on a home that will be a living room theater. Right now all the walls are simi-gloss and tan / peach color at that (bought the home with that color).

So for me, I had to use primer (can) by Valspar called "high hiding primer" and rolled it over the simi gloss paint. Then the paint I chose to roll over the high hiding primer is the Valspar Ultra, paint & primer; Color "Modest Silver" in flat finish.

So to answer your question it really depends if you need to use primer and then apply the paint w/ primer. The paint you have on the wall glossy? If so, i think going w/ the process I did is probably recommended. Yes its more patient / process to do this two step process and costs more $, but this way the satin / simi gloss will be gone when applying your new paint.

I am just sharing what I did and was recommended by the valspar rep that was hanging out at my local Lowes Dept store. ;)

Good luck

Sorry for the delay. Been a little busy lately
Here is a quick update.
Did some testing, which shade of gray should i to with. Narrowed it down to either vail or dover grey. It was hard to compare as I painted 8 A4 format adhesive paper (from home depot), and sticked to the wall. From my observation, dover grey is they way to go.

I have patched whole wall. Just put the second coat. As soon as it dries, I am going to sand it down using 220 sand paper.

Now, i have two question regarding spraying. I will use Valspar signature paint, do I need to put primer before, or since this paint is already primer+paint i can skip it?

Also, what is the best way to check that the paint has proper thickens, before spraying it on the wall.


My wife, gave me a deadline till Thanksgiving, to finish up with this project. Any final tips are welcome.

thank you guys for help.
 
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