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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
In the general DIY sub thread, I already did some preliminary questioning but now that it's starting to come together, I'm going to keep track of my progress in this thread since I will be building a ported design.

I'll start off by summing up my criteria:
- costing no more than 850$ (over here in Europe that comes down to 630€)
- Tube design
- Able to get Epik knight/eD A5-350/AV123 MFW15 on its knees... or at least have the knees bent somewhat :rofl2:
- Emphasis on deep extension while maintaining high SPL around and below the 20Hz mark. Accuracy/musicality is of less importance
- No port chuffing (or at least as little as possible)

So far I've come up with this:
- Tempest-X (335CAD$/211€)
- Behringer EP2500 (270$/200€ - used amp)
- Sonotube enclosure (+-18€ per meter depending on diameter)
- MDF (0$/0€ since my dad has some thick stuff still lying around)
- Various (speaker terminal, wire, glue, damping material, etc.)
- EQ???
- Port

The questions I have for now are the following:
V Is there a tube calculator (incl port calculator) for the Tempest-X? WinISD doesn't do cylindrical if I'm correct...-> nevermind, found it at Collo's page (http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/)
V What size tube or volume will I be looking at in order to beat the aforementioned commercial subs... -> Thx-a-bunch Mike P.!!!
- Will I need an EQ and can someone point me in the right direction as I have no clue whatsoever about this...
- If I need an EQ, since I'm using a HTPC can I use REW with my sound card and sucky SPL-meter for this to save some money?
V what material can I use for the port? -> used another piece of sonotube for this... thx again Mike ;-)
V Does the port have to be flared? -> flared the endcap mdf somewhat
X Will the Tempest be enough for my goals? -> changed driver to IXL18

Thx in advance for your help!!! :mooooh::yay::jump:
 

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I saw your post that you weren't interested in LLT, but your requirements certainly fit one well! You would get great extension, great output and great sq all at the same time. If you can fit a large enclosure this is your best bet.

Some initial modeling is 15 cubic feet tuned to 17 hz looks pretty good. 115db at 20 hz. I don't know what driver that ED sub has in it but for the money I'd venture a guess that the Tempest would be superior.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I saw your post that you weren't interested in LLT, but your requirements certainly fit one well! You would get great extension, great output and great sq all at the same time. If you can fit a large enclosure this is your best bet.

Some initial modeling is 15 cubic feet tuned to 17 hz looks pretty good. 115db at 20 hz. I don't know what driver that ED sub has in it but for the money I'd venture a guess that the Tempest would be superior.
Actually, I wouldn't mind a large enclosure once we have built our house but I really want a sub now 'caus I'm tired of waiting for that subby feeling :D
On the other hand i will only be doing this once I'm afraid soooo.... decisions decisions ;)

With my limited understanding of subwoofers in general and of sonosub.exe I came to the following:
9.18 cubic feet, tuned to 15.6.
Diameter of the tube 1' 7 11/16 and height 5' 1...
Dunno where you can see how much theoretical db you'll be getting at a specific frequency though ;)
Size-wise this looks to be ideal, but I have no idea how this will perform in real-life...

When you say 115db at 20Hz are we taking anechoic or in-room?
Anechoic would mean that it blows the eD clear out of the water purely in terms of output me thinks.
This is the link to the driver that I think they are using in the A5-350: http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?t=2&products_id=36

Could you give me the height and diameter you are getting from the model you created?
The diameter I mentioned in my calculation is sort of what I'm aiming for circumference-wise (sligthly more could be ok too), but height can go up to or slightly above 5' 10 7/8 for all I care...

Could you also enlighten me as to what a SDX15 might bring me that the Tempest-X wouldn't?
Teking into consideration that it is 135$ more expensive over here, would that be worth the added cost?

Oh, and thx for the first calculations and having taken the time to reply both here and in my other thread... much appreciated!!!
 

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costing no more then $850
Able to get Epik knight/eD A5-350/AV123 MFW15 on its knees... or at least have the knees bent somewhat
I don't know how big your room is or how much room you have for subs, but for $850 you could consider a pair of Mach 5 Audio IXL-18's and a EP2500 to drive them. A pair of them would crush the Epik knight/eD A5-350/AV123 MFW15. The IXL-18's sell for $265 shipped in Norh America, contact Mach 5 to see how much shipping a pair to you would be. Just another option to get the most out of your $850.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I don't know how big your room is or how much room you have for subs, but for $850 you could consider a pair of Mach 5 Audio IXL-18's and a EP2500 to drive them. A pair of them would crush the Epik knight/eD A5-350/AV123 MFW15. The IXL-18's sell for $265 shipped in Norh America, contact Mach 5 to see how much shipping a pair to you would be. Just another option to get the most out of your $850.
Hi Mike, I had initially discounted 18" drivers since I'm afraid they'll just make a sonotube seem to big.
I'd rather build the sub a bit higher and keep a smaller footprint then have it standing reasonably low but with no room to put it ;)

Do you know what a tube enclosure's minimum circumference needs to be to accomodate an 18" driver. If it's not too much, I may reconsider

The room the sub will end up in is about 21' by 12'. Once we start building, and with the plans we have now, it'll probably end up in a room that's even smaller... but at least then it'll be a fully dedicated HT whereas now I have to share it with a sort off walk-in closet :D
 

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A 18 inch sub can be made to fit in a 20 inch tube but 22 inch would be better. That way the legs can be integrated into the base plate. If you're going to end up in a room smaller than 21' by 12', then a Tempest-X should be more then enough, unless you're looking for "extreme" low end output.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok so I updated a little, since a new driver came in to play. I'll be going for the IXL-18 now since, great price aside, it also happens to bring the performance I'm looking for with it.

Enclosure will probably be as per recommended by Mach5: 350L and 15Hz tune.
Therefore this will end up being a tube of 22"x56"...

Since I'm all set for the amp and now the driver as well. I only need to make sure of the exact numbers so I can get my tube ordered. From there it's easy sailng right :D
 
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For the future you can do (Pi)r^2 times height and figure out liters, then model a box of that displacement in WinISD with your T/S params. A tube or a box will do the same thing as far as the modeling formulas go, correct me if Im wrong mike.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm finally back after being down and out following a motorcycle accident, but Mike got me back on track ;)

So after some more calcs, I've finally settled on a 400l enclosure with a 13Hz Highpass filter and a 20cm port. It's going to be a 60cm diameter tube that's 178.8cm high according to sonosub (endcap to endcap that's 166cm high btw), which is close to my own height which i thought was cool ;)


Port speed is great and cone excursion only slightly surpasses the limit but should be ok.

No dual set-up for now though. If this turns out ok, I might be tempted to use the full extent of my EP-2500 and order another driver :D

A big thanks goes out to Mike for all the help! :mooooh:
 
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No dual set-up for now though. If this turns out ok, I might be tempted to use the full extent of my EP-2500 and order another driver :D

A big thanks goes out to Mike for all the help! :mooooh:
Dual will make you a believer... Next to each other (within half of the shortest wavelength anyway) for free dB boost across all freqs... In different parts of room for more even coverage... but let me tell you two is twice as good as one :yay: Sonos are a bit tricky for feng shui and WAF to do "colocated" unless you're hiding them behind some screen.

My achievable goal is to have dual 15s in front, and dual 15s in rear (wired in reverse, aimed at you) for what I believe will be a bassgasm. Won't really be a waste of space since there will always be a TV stand and the rear can be another kind of table :scratchhead:

Grats on the build, also waiting for some pics...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok, long time since I've been around but as promised to Mike, I'm making up for the absence by continuing my build thread ;)

I've already routed all my endcaps and the driver fits neatly inside it's nest :)
Pictures soon to follow!

I eventually ended up settling for a 365L design, but it should be more than plenty.

I'm about to start lining the inside of the tube, but I now see on the packaging of the egg crate foam that it is open celled polyether-based. I remember reading somewhere that open celled polyester-based is preferred, but can I get away with what I have?
I don't want to be putting the wrong stuff in there since once glued up there's no way back ;)
 

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My achievable goal is to have dual 15s in front, and dual 15s in rear (wired in reverse, aimed at you) for what I believe will be a bassgasm. QUOTE]

Do you mean out of phase?
If so, they all need to be in phase, otherwise you will get cancellation.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
My achievable goal is to have dual 15s in front, and dual 15s in rear (wired in reverse, aimed at you) for what I believe will be a bassgasm. QUOTE]

Do you mean out of phase?
If so, they all need to be in phase, otherwise you will get cancellation.
I'm not even going the dual route so I don't have to take any of this into consideration :)
I do however have some spare MDF circles lying around from this build though. Could be good enough to make a second, smaller sub while I'm at it to throw into the living room :)
I'll measure it up and see what kind of driver would fit in there.
 
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