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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So my dedicated HT will be started next week as well as a separate play room for my kids (In basement) :bigsmile: The HT is going to be 30x11x8’6”, so it’s pretty long. The back 8’ will have a 10 person poker table for Monday night football/poker night. I have attached a sketch. The projector (Epson 8500UB) will be ceiling mounted at 14’ from the screen about 8” down, the screen will be the wall itself and anywhere from 90”- 112”. Audio is comprised of ONKYO HTIB 9400THX 7.1, front speakers will be front wall mounted at 40” high. The side surrounds will be wall mounted 6’ high at 1’ behind seating position. The rear surrounds will also be wall mounted 6’ high and 9’ behind seating position. The angles will be exactly as recommended, 22° for front, 100° for side and 150° for rear. The sub is TBD.

I have a few questions regarding HVAC and sound proofing. The room will be in the basement of a 2 story house, all bedrooms are on the 2nd floor. I want to sound proof as much as I can and even though I would love to use whisper clips as well as DD/GG my budget does not allow it. I’m limited to R13 for walls and R19 for ceiling with 5/8 drywall on walls and ceiling. The reason DD/GG is out of the question is that the GG alone is $900 for coverage of 33 panels, cost prohibitive at this point. I could however just use two layers of drywall with no GG. Would this be a good idea or will it cause more harm than good? If so do I go with two layers of ½ , 3/8, 5/8 , or a combination of the three? They also sell this joint gasket tape (link below) that is supposed to decouple and dampen sounds, not as good as whisper clips but better than nothing I guess. Would this tape be beneficial? I also read that I can use GG on studs and joist in place of the tape, since this won't req. to much this option is also doable. So which is better on studs prior to hanging drywall GG or Joist tape? I could also use acoustical caulk for all the edges since I won’t require too much. Would this also be a good Idea? Oh and I will also be using putty pads on gang boxes.

Now on to HVAC, the basement is naturally cool all year round, the original plant was to run a dedicated send and return to both halves of the basement. I know fear that by doing so the noise in the HT may travel through the ducts to the rest of house especially bedrooms. I think I have two options, the first is to not put a return or send in that room and just keep door open when not in use to avoid air getting stale and bringing in some cool/warm air. The second is to somehow recirculate the air from the other half of the room into the theater room. Similar to the door being opened but more efficient I guess. Any ideas:scratch:


http://www.tmsoundproofing.com/gasket-tape.html

View attachment Sketch.pdf
 

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I would just build dead vents between the 2 spaces. Make them from duct board with a couple of bends in them and a fan to help circulate the air out in the other space. Put it in the return end to pull air out rather than trying to force are in.

Double drywall will still certainly help by increasing the mass and lowering the resonance of the structure/cavity. Using 2 different thicknesses is a myth. Use as heavy as you can. 2x1/2 or 2x 5/8"

If you want a way to help a little bit, you can use DC-04 clips around the perimeter walls so they're somewhat decoupled from the rest of the structure.

Bryan
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I would just build dead vents between the 2 spaces. Make them from duct board with a couple of bends in them and a fan to help circulate the air out in the other space. Put it in the return end to pull air out rather than trying to force are in.
Totaly lost me on this, looked up dead vents and I'm still not sure how to build it. So will there be 2 dead vents or just 1?

Double drywall will still certainly help by increasing the mass and lowering the resonance of the structure/cavity. Using 2 different thicknesses is a myth. Use as heavy as you can. 2x1/2 or 2x 5/8"
OK, I'll do 5/8. its only an additional $200.

If you want a way to help a little bit, you can use DC-04 clips around the perimeter walls so they're somewhat decoupled from the rest of the structure.
So if I understand this correctly, these DC-04 clips are used to attach the wall studs to the top and bottom plates essentially separating the drywall that will be attached to them from the rest of the framing? With my room size that means about 80 clips, so about $400. Wife will axe that in a heartbeat. Is the tape or using GG on the studs themselves not beneficial. That would run about $100 which the wife will OK. So, if the DD and tape/GG on studs will work I may just go that route.

never thought there would be so much involved with building a HT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This sounds like it's going to be a good build! Looking forward to seeing some progress next week!
It won’t be fancy though, no pillars, stage or curtains. At the most maybe some HT Sconces but the cost may be too much for those as well. Can lights are cheaper. But it will still be a sweet hideaway.
 

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It won’t be fancy though, no pillars, stage or curtains. At the most maybe some HT Sconces but the cost may be too much for those as well. Can lights are cheaper. But it will still be a sweet hideaway.
I've really enjoyed seeing the all-out crazy HTs shacksters put together here, but honestly, what it sounds like you are going to do is more in the realm of reality, and more of what I would like to do in the future in my basement, so it will be good to follow along with you.

A simple and clean layout to me is what I like. Not to bag on people that do the all out, but having pillars and star lighting, a popcorn machine, etc. doesn't really entice me. Maybe if I had the funds :bigsmile:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've really enjoyed seeing the all-out crazy HTs shacksters put together here, but honestly, what it sounds like you are going to do is more in the realm of reality, and more of what I would like to do in the future in my basement, so it will be good to follow along with you.

A simple and clean layout to me is what I like. Not to bag on people that do the all out, but having pillars and star lighting, a popcorn machine, etc. doesn't really entice me. Maybe if I had the funds :bigsmile:
This room will also double as a bedroom when we have guests so even though it will be primarily a HT it does have to stay functional as a BR.
 

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Alex, I can't give you a pro opinion on the gasket tape or GG/caulk on studs, but I think I remember reading somewhere that it wasn't the best idea... I just don't remember why. I know it won't isolate because you'll have the screws going right into the studs, but I would think it might help a little bit with panels possibly vibrating? Maybe with enough screws that won't be an issue anyway.

I think double drywall will be a big help if you can swing it, and also consider putting "strips" of drywall up between the joists before you do the rest of the ceiling/insulation. I know I've seen that on here before, and it should add a little bit more mass for the sound to travel through.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Alex, I can't give you a pro opinion on the gasket tape or GG/caulk on studs, but I think I remember reading somewhere that it wasn't the best idea... I just don't remember why. I know it won't isolate because you'll have the screws going right into the studs, but I would think it might help a little bit with panels possibly vibrating? Maybe with enough screws that won't be an issue anyway.

I think double drywall will be a big help if you can swing it, and also consider putting "strips" of drywall up between the joists before you do the rest of the ceiling/insulation. I know I've seen that on here before, and it should add a little bit more mass for the sound to travel through.
Thanks for your input. I'm probably going to forgo the GG or Gasket tape. Probably not worth the limited improvement. DD will be enough for me, who am I kidding I'm no HT aficionado. I got caught up in all these great rooms forgetting that there is a budget and that the main reason to finish the basement was to add a play room for my kids. So I decided that if I go over budget it will be in the kids room. Adding a swing, mini tree house and zip line for them. :)
 

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Sorry - lost track of this thread. My apologies.

GG on the studs won't do much except spend money. If you want better isolation, you can use 1x3 slats perpendicular to the studs and screw the drywall into those. Not quite as effective as clips and channel but definitely an improvement in isolation and you only lose 3/4" on each wall in doing so.

2 dead vents. Gotta have a way to get air in and a way to get air out.

Bryan
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorry - lost track of this thread. My apologies.

GG on the studs won't do much except spend money. If you want better isolation, you can use 1x3 slats perpendicular to the studs and screw the drywall into those. Not quite as effective as clips and channel but definitely an improvement in isolation and you only lose 3/4" on each wall in doing so.

2 dead vents. Gotta have a way to get air in and a way to get air out.

Bryan
I decided to just tap into existing HVAC and add a silencer to each as well as using a long run of 6" FLEX hose. DD and insulation will be all I do and going with Sconces vs. can lights to minimize noise seepage. Also sealant on all edges and electrical boxes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Started on the walls today as well as the bathroom. Also decided to add a zipline, tree house and climbing wall on the kids side of the basement. This is the reason I had to scale back on the soundproofing. So no GG for me :(
 

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Also decided to add a zipline, tree house and climbing wall on the kids side of the basement.
You have got some lucky kids! Can't blame you at all for that re-allocation of funds, keep the kids playing outside and active as long as you can. I'm sure they'll love those additions. I know I would have!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You have got some lucky kids! Can't blame you at all for that re-allocation of funds, keep the kids playing outside and active as long as you can. I'm sure they'll love those additions. I know I would have!
Yea, the WI winters are long and cold. Going to be a mini playground down there. Plus the zip line will be rated up to 250 :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
WTF WTF WTF

WTF, so we've lived in this house since it was built in 2008. Never so much as a hint of basement water leaking. Today after 2 days of rain I find water in one corner of the basement. Lucky that only the framing has been done. Guess its good this reared its head now rather than once everything was done. Possible causes are two, the first is that when nailing the PT floor plate it caused a crack that aided the water seepage. Unlikely though, the other is that the gutter on that corner of the basement was not far enough. This could be compounded by the fact that the empty lot next to us is finally being built on so they excavated the area and possibly disturbed something.

Solutions are to fix the gutter and then remove the framing and add drylock and other leak stopping materials. I'll also make sure this corner of the room is raisable so I can check periodically.

Any other thoughts?
 

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Water is a big concern for any basement construction I'd guess. On one hand, it's a shame that you have had that problem, but on the other, at least you noticed it now before going too far!

I'd try to find the source of the leak if possible, and treat it there. If you can figure out where the water is coming in, maybe you can stop it. If you're not able to find and eliminate it, what about putting down something like a dricore subfloor? The only other thing I can think of is to build a removable section like you mentioned, and use something like the LeakFrog to tell you when you have a problem... http://www.leakfrog.com/leakfrog.html
 

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I've had four floods (relatively minor) since we moved into our 2000-built home a year ago. Two from sprinklers breaking and essentially filling the window wells, one from a busted water heater, and another from a lot of rain and a detached rain gutter extension off the downspout. I fixed that downspout extension, which is only 3 feet long, and the next downpour didn't cause any flooding. They handle a surprising amount of water...so I would say keep an eye on them. I've gotten to the point where when it rains, I obsessively run outside and check them all to make sure they're attached!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Water is a big concern for any basement construction I'd guess. On one hand, it's a shame that you have had that problem, but on the other, at least you noticed it now before going too far!

I'd try to find the source of the leak if possible, and treat it there. If you can figure out where the water is coming in, maybe you can stop it. If you're not able to find and eliminate it, what about putting down something like a dricore subfloor? The only other thing I can think of is to build a removable section like you mentioned, and use something like the LeakFrog to tell you when you have a problem... http://www.leakfrog.com/leakfrog.html
More than likely the source is twofold, first being the downspout that was only about 2’ from foundation and the other is the excavation of the lot right next to us for a new construction. I doubt the issue was caused when the floor plate was nailed into the concrete. That leak frog looks interesting. Thanks

I've had four floods (relatively minor) since we moved into our 2000-built home a year ago. Two from sprinklers breaking and essentially filling the window wells, one from a busted water heater, and another from a lot of rain and a detached rain gutter extension off the downspout. I fixed that downspout extension, which is only 3 feet long, and the next downpour didn't cause any flooding. They handle a surprising amount of water...so I would say keep an eye on them. I've gotten to the point where when it rains, I obsessively run outside and check them all to make sure they're attached!
Yep, I'll be checking that same spot more often.
 

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I've gotten to the point where when it rains, I obsessively run outside and check them all to make sure they're attached!
Lol... that reminds me of the time in university when we had a hard rainstorm after a very recent basement flood. 3 of us ran outside in the pouring rain to try to fix the grading around the house so water wouldn't pour into the window wells, but we had no shovels. We used hands, a baking sheet, and some sticks we found nearby to do all of our excavation. The shocking thing is it actually worked. If 3 half-educated (and probably half in the bag) students could fix it, I'm sure you can.
 
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