Hello everyone,
This is my first post here, but I have been reading alot in here over the last few weeks.
I am looking to build a sub for computer gaming. This might seem a little extreme, but I play a tank game (yes, I am 49) and I like big sound. I have a SMSL DAC/AMP optically connected to my computer running a pair of Definitive Technologies Pro Monitor 1000's and the sub out from the little amp is connected to a Polk Audio HTS 10" powered subwoofer. The sub does not have the boom that my Klipsh Sub-12 does in my home theater system. My wife has told me to go buy Supercube 6000 or 8000 and I might just end up doing that.
I am an experienced woodworker and have basically a full cabinet shop at home.
My three main considerations are, small size, not overly complicated and low end boom. The advantage for making it is that I can make it an unusual size (i.e. 16" tall x 16" deep x 24" wide in the case of the 12" example to follow).
My four senarios are,
Dayton UM10-22 in a sealed 0.85 cu ft box, F3 of 26.7hz with a 5db boost at 30hz - Simple to make and very small
Dayton UM12-22 in a sealed 2.50 cu ft box, F3 of 24 hz with a 4.5db bost at 27hz - Simple but on the large size
Dayton UM10-22 in a sealed 1.50 cu ft box with two 10" passive radiators, F3 of 22Hz w/no boost - Also not hard, but most expensive
Dayton UM10-22 in a ported 1.80 cu ft box, F3 of 18Hz w/no boost, complicated to make, large room for error with box and port sizing, but not undoable (1.5"x12" slot port needs to be 54" long for a port speed of 36fps at 100 watts/100db or 5" round wants to be 60" long)
My plan was to use the Dayton SPA250DSP amp.
Here are the graphs from WINISD,
I am pretty sure I am overthinking this.
Any ideas how these would compare to my Polk 10" or Klipsh 12"?
Opinions on the four designs?
Thank you,
David.
London, Ontario
This is my first post here, but I have been reading alot in here over the last few weeks.
I am looking to build a sub for computer gaming. This might seem a little extreme, but I play a tank game (yes, I am 49) and I like big sound. I have a SMSL DAC/AMP optically connected to my computer running a pair of Definitive Technologies Pro Monitor 1000's and the sub out from the little amp is connected to a Polk Audio HTS 10" powered subwoofer. The sub does not have the boom that my Klipsh Sub-12 does in my home theater system. My wife has told me to go buy Supercube 6000 or 8000 and I might just end up doing that.
I am an experienced woodworker and have basically a full cabinet shop at home.
My three main considerations are, small size, not overly complicated and low end boom. The advantage for making it is that I can make it an unusual size (i.e. 16" tall x 16" deep x 24" wide in the case of the 12" example to follow).
My four senarios are,
Dayton UM10-22 in a sealed 0.85 cu ft box, F3 of 26.7hz with a 5db boost at 30hz - Simple to make and very small
Dayton UM12-22 in a sealed 2.50 cu ft box, F3 of 24 hz with a 4.5db bost at 27hz - Simple but on the large size
Dayton UM10-22 in a sealed 1.50 cu ft box with two 10" passive radiators, F3 of 22Hz w/no boost - Also not hard, but most expensive
Dayton UM10-22 in a ported 1.80 cu ft box, F3 of 18Hz w/no boost, complicated to make, large room for error with box and port sizing, but not undoable (1.5"x12" slot port needs to be 54" long for a port speed of 36fps at 100 watts/100db or 5" round wants to be 60" long)
My plan was to use the Dayton SPA250DSP amp.
Here are the graphs from WINISD,

I am pretty sure I am overthinking this.
Any ideas how these would compare to my Polk 10" or Klipsh 12"?
Opinions on the four designs?
Thank you,
David.
London, Ontario