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This would be the optimum size for HT and music, shown with 550 watts input power, with 2 subs wired for 4 ohms. The original E.D. plate amps didn't have a Hi-Pass filter, I'm not sure if the new version does or not, or which version of the amp you have. If the box size is too big we can go smaller but you'll give up low end output.

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1. It doesn't have to be L shaped, just as long as the port entrance is 4 inches away from any wall.

2. There's an Enclosure Calculators here:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/enclosure-volume-calculator/

It will give you the panel sizes and you can figure out how to best place them on a 4' x 8' sheet of MDF.

3. With this setup, since the amp has no Hi-pass filter, the sub will start to bottom out below 16 hz if pushed hard. If you were to get an E.D. eQ.2 and add a HPF at 18 hz, the air speed would drop low enough that you could use a 6" PVC port 17 inches long and also protect your subs from over excursion. Without a HPF the air speed would be 35 m/s which is too high.

4. Go with 9.0 ft3 net volume. Which port volume are you referring to, the slot port or the 6" PVC?
 

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Sealed ( small ) 0.7ft³
Sealed ( ideal ) 1.0ft³
Sealed ( large ) 1.2ft³
Vented ( ideal ) 1.5ft³ Tuned to 30Hz
Vented ( DDLoud) 1.8ft³ Tuned to 35Hz
The above recommendations are for car audio where the extreme effects of cabin gain are taken into account. Those recommendations do not apply to in home use where room gain is much less.

If 9 cu.ft is too big then what is the biggest box size that is acceptable to you?
 

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16 x 16 x 48 would be an internal volume of 5.6 cu.ft. What's the widest you could go with the 18 high by 18 deep design?

Here's sealed vs ported in 5.6 cu.ft internal volume. Ported is with 2 - 4" ports 25 inches long each. Both models require a Hi-Pass filter ar 18 hz.

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