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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone.. I am trying to build my first Dedicated Home Theater and this would be a complete DIY. I am attacing a pdf which is my plan for my proposed Home Theater. I would like to make this as sound proof as possible. I am planning to go double dry wall with green glue to both the walls and the celing. I also plan to fill up my joist with insulation and making my drywall framing isolated by using RSIC-V (soundproofingcompany) clips to the celing. There is one issue that I would like to tackle which is preventing me from moving forward and that is what I hope to get answered here.

the next couple of attacments are of my plumbing that runs specifically in one joist through out its length wall to wall. In the 2 picture you would see one more pipe (black) which has its joint right along with the other plumbing. There is also a stop valve for the refrigerator. All this plumbing is in one joist. I would like to keep that part accessible ( that is my problem ) is there anyway I can do double drywall and then install the a 2 feet drywall ( doubled ) running the entire length of the joist ... so if there are any future issues all I would have to do is just open just that portion of the celing ???

I am not sure if this makes any sense but I want to attain resonable soundproofing with access to the plumbing..any other ideas are more than welcome and would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thankyou Bryan,

Let me put the question in a diffent way... Those black pipes are the gas lines there are 3 of them.. one running straight across the area I want to use and 2 running parallel and are at the very edge where I would start the wall.. the other 2 copper lines are the water lines running to my kitchen above.

Is this an unfound fear of mine to leave an access to this lines ??/. Should I just get a plumber in to have him check out the health of this lines and then just cover them up like I am doing with the rest of the room ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have thought of different area but I also do not want to hog up all the open space in the basement. Here is the current setup. The basement is 31 x 31 and if I go with the proposed setup that would be my best bet since it would include all the support post without getting a structural engineer involved and moving them somewhere else if I decide to go with a different setup. any other ideas are most welcome..
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Also anyother arrangement and I would have to deal with windows and I am sure with building codes for a fishished basement I cannot remove any windows. I want full control of light into the basement and now when I think about it Bryan is right I have a 2 floor house and there are tons of pipes tucked away under the drywalls and floors.. so I am sure that would not be an issue..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok here is how it would look if I enclose my current theater seating area (hT4.pdf) .. now if you look at it ..the stair are not facing the open area but the wall.. so as soon as I get into the basement I have a narrow unused space (dead space ) on both the sides and then a 13 x 31 ft open area in the back.. and I dont see any other benefit from moving to this new location... my basement would all of a sudden be dark and uninviting and cramped as soon as I walk in and see walls on all the sides no more than 4 ft from me. If I go along with the proposed HT3LONG.pdf the theater is well in corner ( currently not even being used ) and I sill have a good 16 x 31 ft open area with a future full bath opportunity between the heater/boiler room and the stairs ...
 

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