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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, a little over a year ago you helped me build a monster sub for my theatre so I've returned for further assistance. This time, I need help building a bandpass enclosure for an exterior application (pool / patio).

I want it to be bandpass because I plan to bury the main enclosure and only have the port protrude from the ground. Of course, the enclosure and speaker connections will be fully watertight. I would like to use a JL Audio M10W5-CG-WH, and it's specs are as follows:

Free Air Resonance (Fs) 31.55 Hz
Electrical “Q” (Qes) 0.484
Mechanical “Q” (Qms) 8.946
Total Speaker “Q” (Qts) 0.46
Equivalent Compliance (Vas) 1.58 cu ft / 44.75 L
One-Way Linear Excursion (Xmax)* 0.52 in / 13.2 mm
Reference Efficiency (no) 0.28%
Efficiency (1 W / 1 m)** 86.7 dB SPL
Effective Piston Area (Sd) 50.11 sq in / 0.0323 sq m
DC Resistance (Re) 3.602 Ω

Can someone help with front and rear enclosure and port volumes? I would like to use a 3" ID port, and as I am burying the enclosure and the port will be external to it, please don't include the port in the internal volume calculations.

Thanks so much!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Talked with JL and they gave me the following specs;

Sealed Net Volume = 1.25 cubic foot
Ported Net Volume = 1.00 cubic foot
Twin 3" ports at 8" long
 

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Discussion Starter #4

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Discussion Starter #11
If I use vertical stacks, I will use mushroom cups used for roof vents and some 1cm screen. If I use the 90s I will custom fab something.

Connection will be direct burial wire passed through the enclosure via smallest hole possible with lots of silicone to seal it, and then more resin on the outside. Connections to driver's terminals will be soldered.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The woofer arrived today. More progress

Need to trim the pvc back to the desired port length, but I've filled in the gap between the elbow and mating section with bondo so there is no disturbance to the airflow.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Nope, it will be fully sealed. I will fully test things out before wrapping it in glass
If the driver dies, I'll build a new box. Never had issues with JL stuff so I'm not worried about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have solved the water entry issue, but its top-secret for now ;) It will be a few weeks before the pool/patio construction in complete, so I will post pictures at that time.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I was going to mount the enclosure "upside down" so the ports would be on the bottom. I was going to have them fire through a custom cavity in a retaining wall. Water doesn't run uphill, so it would have been a good way to prevent that problem as well as being a slick install. Totally hidden.

However, today I tested the enclosure again. This time, using my "room gain." I put it in a brick wall corner, with the ports firing into the corner. The gain was pretty amazing, across the entire patio/pool area.

I wish i could have used the cool upside down idea, but it just sounds so much better in the corner, so thats where it will live.

Now if the pool crew could hurry up and finish!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Look closely abd you can see the pvc 90s in the corner. I put pvc caps into the 90s when not in use to keep water out. Both are painted to blend in.
The single 10 absolutely pounds out the low end. As usual, JL does not dissapoint.
 

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