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Discussion Starter #1
I posted here prior (http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...-building-dayton-15-classic-4-ohm-sealed.html)

As the title of this post says, I will pay $10 paypal for the sub plans for this particular driver. I would like to build the box out of plywood rather than mdf for cost and weight savings and I will probably reinforce it of course.

I am thinking a slot port. Driver is a 15" Dayton Classic 4 ohm. Amplifier is a Parts Express Dayton 240 Watt Plate with 6db Bass Boost at 30 hz.

Specifications:
Subwoofer

Power handling: 250 watts RMS/350 watts max *VCdia: 2" *Le: 2.30 mH *Impedance: 4 ohms *Re: 3.1 ohms *Frequency range: 20-500 Hz *Fs: 20 Hz *SPL: 92 dB 2.83V/1m *Vas: 9.70 cu. ft. *Qms: 4.00 *Qes: .50 *Qts: .44 *Xmax: 8.5 mm *Dimensions: A: 15", B: 14", C: 6-3/8".

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-470

Amplifier: Dimensions: 9-13/16" W x 9-13/16" H x 5" D. Cutout dimensions: 8-1/2" W x 8-1/2" H.

* Power output: 170 watts RMS @ 8 ohms 240 watts RMS @ 4 ohms
* Bass Boost 6dB @ 30Hz
* S/N ratio: 90 dB (A-weighted)
* High power/low distortion
* Adjustable low pass crossover
* Auto On/Off
* Phase reversal switch

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-805

I would like to build a slot port but beyond that I am not sure. I would prefer it to be 4 cubic feet or so. Additionally there must be room for the amplifier inside of course.
 

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What was wrong with the ported enclosure Mike. P suggested?

I would highly suggest just going with MDF. It is easier to work with and with such a small box weight will not be to big a problem. I think I paid 22 bucks for a sheet which should be plenty for 4cu.ft.
 

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so are you looking for a cut sheet? Have you ever built an enclosure?

The easiest would be to just use a round port. Why do you prefer slot port?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I made a 3 cubic foot one with a pvc port and it sounded horrible so I was thinking of trying a slot instead.
 

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Yeah I doubt the fact that the port was a round port was the problem. Most people use slot ports only when you have to fit a really long port in a smaller box. I have built many excellent sounding enclosures with round ports. The skill level needed for a round port is definetly lower.
 

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You can make a 20.5" cube with a 18" long port that is 4" in diameter.

If you use .75" MDF that would require 2-20.5"x20.5" , 2-20.5"x19", and 2-19"x19" sheets to make it.

The slot port is also possible.
 

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It looks like your main concern is that the sub sound good. 4 cubes is too small for that driver to operate optimally with a Qtc of over .8. High Q's can give a subwoofer that 'bad car sub' sound but this can be resolved with equalization. The BFD is a great eq for the money.

Round vs slot - if the port is built correctly it doesn't matter what shape it is. As a beginner you might consider a regular round port as the can be purchased or made out of pvc pipe. It requires a lot less planning than a slot port.

As for cut sheets, we can certainly help you figure this out. Are you confined to any dimensions? To do some basic experimenting look at this page. Plug in some dimensions you like where the final volume of the box is about 5 cubic feet or so. This will leave some room for the driver cone, bracing and port.

Let us know how else we can help. Your sub can be any shape you desire and that's part of the fun.
 

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It seems like he is frustrated since he has started another thread now.

Just tell everyone what you want to do and they will make up cut sheets and everything free of charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sorry about that. I got a cut sheet and 3d plans from a dude on a different forum. Ill post some pictures when it is finished.

I don't trust my ability enough given how poorly my last box sounded.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
its a slot port, about ~4 cu ft volume, slot and sub fire same direction, amp goes on side, vent goes up and around inside.
 
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