[gilbypoleadamson]

Im trying to decide what to do for a new sub. On one hand i want to build my own but it seems pretty complicated. Are the Dayton sub kits a good deal? Because that seems like a good compromise or should i just build my own?

 

[Mike P.]

Building your own is not complicated at all. Once your budget is defined and what your needs are, it's just a matter of finding the right design, and you'll get all the help you'll need here. If you have the tools required and can cut a straight line, it's a simple process.

 

[bonehead848]

Ill second what mike said. Just give us the details on budget, size requirements, etc and you will get more info than you could ever need. On a separate note I would also recommend you build one just because of how rewarding it is. Anyone can go into a best buy and pick out a sub but building one takes it to a new level.

 

[gilbypoleadamson]

Well im looking for something in the 3-400 dollar range, possibly a little more. Ill be using it mainly for music so i was thinking a 12" but im not really sure what the best size would be.

 

[Mike P.]

How big is the room?

 

[gilbypoleadamson]

Small, probably 20 x 20 or so.

 

[Mike P.]

That actually a fair sized room for a 12 inch sub. What are your listening habits, do you like it loud?

 

[gilbypoleadamson]

I keep my music pretty loud, right now ive got a pair of polk audio tower speakers and a psw10 sub i think it is and although its not bad, i want something cleaner with more definition but also something that can get deeper then my 10"

 

[Mike P.]

Do you have preference regarding a sealed or ported sub?

 

[Owen Bartley]

As said above, building a sub really isn't too hard if you're at all handy and know your way around a saw. It can get more complicated depending on how picky you are, and what kind of a finish you're looking for. As an example, my first sub (the Tempest) was pretty much just a box with bracing. I used a jigsaw to cut the driver and port hole and it worked fine. On my next project (the SDX10) I decided to make it a little cleaner and built a jig to cut the holes with a router. I also tried a different method to finish it that was a little more involving than simply rolling on a few coats of paint. You can get very complicated with veneer and stain and curved walls, etc. etc., but you can also build a great simple starter project and have something very rewarding at the end.

As far as the design, there are a lot of people here who can help you with that, and you'll learn about that along the way. Then on your next project, you'll be a step up.

 

[gilbypoleadamson]

Thanks Owen, and to Mike, Im not exactly sure what the differences are but im pretty sure ported would be what i want.

 

[bonehead848]

Thanks Owen, and to Mike, Im not exactly sure what the differences are but im pretty sure ported would be what i want.

If you dont have any strong opinions I would go ported. It will allow your sub to get deeper and allow for more well rounded use. Construction is not any harder, just cut an extra hole for the port.

Does 300-400 include just the driver and amp or does that need to include construction materials as well?

 

[applez]

Ported subs would take up more room vs a sealed sub, and I don't know how much more. The other guys can figure that out later hopefully (I'm not to that experience point yet...).

As for money, you can spend a wide range of money. A good 12" sub will run about $200 and a good 15" would go for ~$250-300.

If you wanted a built in amplifier for the sub, it would be about $220 for a 500W, and if you could go for an external amplifier, you could get an EP1500 or 2500 for a little under $300.

As for all accessories, I am building a sub right now, and the binding posts, metal plate for them, wood, and stuffing was totaled to be about $75.

This is all from what I have seen, so other people might have different viewpoints or products that they have found.

 

[gilbypoleadamson]

bonehead, it doesn't have to include construction materials, applez, thanks for the prices, im trying to decide whether or not i could afford a 15

 

[Mike P.]

Actually you can afford a 18 inch sub. A Mach 5 Audio MJ-18M is $155 and that includes shipping. A Bash 300 amp from Parts Express is $150 and a pair of 4 inch flared ports is $28. Add building materials and miscellaneous items and you are within your $400 budget.

The sub in 5.3 cu.ft tuned to 26 hz would give you 115 db down to 30 hz and drop to 104 db at 20 hz, plus the effects of room gain. A 22.5 inch cube with the sub on the front, the amp mounted at the the back and the ports on the side would make a nice package. The output would be excellent in your 20' by 20' room.

 

[gilbypoleadamson]

I wasnt able to find the MJ-18M anywhere, it was sold out of multiple places including their website

 

[Mike P.]

According to the website a limited number of MJ-18M units will become available by the end of April.

 

[gilbypoleadamson]

That sounds like a good deal but im not sure when ill be able to buy it but i dont think it would be until late may. Also, im not sure if id want a sub that big.

 

[Mike P.]

Not a problem. State how big of a cabinet is acceptable and we'll find something to fit your needs.

 

[gilbypoleadamson]

Just looking for a good sized 12 to 15