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(1). Two from speakers either side of the screen which will be 3.5 meters wide or 11.5 feet wide.
You will probably have to "toe in" (angle inward) these speakers so the tweeters are aiming at the primary seating area, also try pulling them out from the wall 2-3 feet.

(2). First sub-woofer to one side of the screen or directly below the screen under the stage.
placeing the subs in the corners of the room will increase their bass

(3). Centre Speaker dead centre of screen, just below the screen.
depending on how low the bottom of the screen is to the floor you may want to try to angle the speaker up a few degrees

(4). Two side speakers 3 meters or 10 feet back from the screen.
When sitting in the primary listening these will be on either side wall? i.e. on the right side it would be by the wild boar head? How far away from the primary listening area (your seat) are these speakers? B&W CNTs?

(5). Rear speakers 6.1 meters or 20 feet back from the screen and about 1 meter or 3 feet behind the seating area.
Looking at your pictures I don't see a wall behind the listening area, I see the pilar, the three couches (one up against the pilar, are there stands I don't see or is the second picture taken right up against the rear wall?
Currently while sitting in the primary seating area, if you turn your around can you easily see the rear speakers or is the back of the couch too high.

(6). Second sub-woofer directly behind the seating area. Again if possible see how the bass is if you put one sub in the front right corner and the other in the back left (or vice versa)
 

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Discussion Starter #22
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(1). Two from speakers either side of the screen which will be 3.5 meters wide or 11.5 feet wide.
You will probably have to "toe in" (angle inward) these speakers so the tweeters are aiming at the primary seating area, also try pulling them out from the wall 2-3 feet.
Makes perfect sence, thanks.

(2). First sub-woofer to one side of the screen or directly below the screen under the stage.
placeing the subs in the corners of the room will increase their bass
Making notes of all your tips :D

(3). Centre Speaker dead centre of screen, just below the screen.
depending on how low the bottom of the screen is to the floor you may want to try to angle the speaker up a few degrees
There will be more then enough room to put the Cantre Speaker below the screen, and IF I chose to go with the Panasonic PT-AE6000E or PT-AE8000E I might chose to go with a Aspect Screen Ratio 2:35 as from my understanding this model will show no black lines when watching a movie that was filmed in 16:9 or 2:35 which is a Awesome idea.

(4). Two side speakers 3 meters or 10 feet back from the screen.
When sitting in the primary listening these will be on either side wall? i.e. on the right side it would be by the wild boar head? How far away from the primary listening area (your seat) are these speakers? B&W CNTs?
That is correct on the right side the speaker will be slightly closer towars the screen from where the boar head is between 6 to 12 inches closer to the screen.
So from the Front speakers to the side speakers would be 9 feet and from the side spekers to where the seating area is would also be 9 feet and the rears would be about 3 feet further behind the seating area but on the side walls.

(5). Rear speakers 6.1 meters or 20 feet back from the screen and about 1 meter or 3 feet behind the seating area.
Looking at your pictures I don't see a wall behind the listening area, I see the pilar, the three couches (one up against the pilar, are there stands I don't see or is the second picture taken right up against the rear wall?
Currently while sitting in the primary seating area, if you turn your around can you easily see the rear speakers or is the back of the couch too high.
The rear speakers are on the side not directly behind as the room is a further 26 feet longer from the pillar as the pillar is dead centre of the room. Refer to question 4 and look at the attached photos, hope that makes it clearer.

(6). Second sub-woofer directly behind the seating area. Again if possible see how the bass is if you put one sub in the front right corner and the other in the back left (or vice versa)
Noted

Your advice is very greatfully appreciated.
Regards
Dean
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
As Joe stated the Audyssey calibration system is part of the software included with the Integra.

If I may I would like to edit your AV “1” list with these changes

1 x Panasonic PT-AT6000E (or the 7000 if you buy US)
Review: http://www.expertreviews.co.uk/projectors/1294366/panasonic-pt-at6000e-review-hands-on
Reasoning: Your dealer said Optoma has customer service issues in AU. Additionally, placement/adjustment may be more difficult due to minimal lense shift adjustment and manual focus of the Optoma. Panny is also brighter which is a benefit to 3D viewing

With the Panny’s Lens Memory function you can go from a 16:9 screen to a full Cinescope. http://www.ozts.com.au/cinemascope.htm

If you don’t need the IR extension you can go with the Gefen HDBaseT extender and save some $ http://www.gefen.com/kvm/dproduct.jsp?prod_id=10870

I am an atheist in the religion of high end cables. The Gefen units come with cables and will be fine, saves you some $ (just check on the cable if they are 1.3 compliant)

Does the calibration in the labor include an ISF certified calibration of the projector and receiver? http://www.ehow.com/about_6647292_isf-calibration_.html

A universal remote URC (Universal Remote Control inc) Digital R50 is a nice one

remote control light dimmer http://www.lutron.com/Products/StandAloneControls/Dimmers-Switches/MaestroIRDimmer/Pages/Overview.aspx

Because of the size of your room I will recommend a second sub if it is within your budget. The SVS PC13 Ultra is a cylindrical sub that is easy to move around (did you look at the "sub crawl" video?) and looks cool to boot. http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_14_4/svs-pc13-ultra-subwoofer-12-2007-part-1.html

What did you cousin/father wire your room with?
Firstly thanks a TON for all that info, PLEASE feel free to edit the A/V list. Most of what you suggested is pricless information:T as the projector is something I want to get right and I'm really struggling as to figure out what projector is the best on the market for both 2D & 3D as many movies will be watched in both 2D & 3D I personally love 3D as much as I love 2D.
Is there a site or forum that have something like the Top 10 2D & 3D projectors.

Please note at this stage I'm also not 100% sure if it's true that Optoma's customer service is bad in Australia, im only going by what I was told by the last AV dealer I called.

The first two AV dealers that I went to both said that the Optoma HD83 is by far the best projector on the market within that price range, I was also told by one dealer, that he took home 4 different projectors and set them up and after everything was set up he asked a couple of friends and his family to pick the clearest projector in both 2D &
3D and ALL of them chose the Optoma HD83 and he said he had a $12,000 projector in those 4 demos that he done which wasn't no where as clear as the HD83, he also told me the name of that $12,000 projector but I forgot what it was.

However is saying that I just read some reviews on the PT-AT6000E (EUROPE) which is the PT-AE8000U (USA) the PT-AT7000E is $3,300 here now in Australia which is Panasonic's last years model.
Unfortunately I don’t see anything online saying that the PT-AT6000E or PT-AE8000U will be in Australia, im guessing it could take anywhere from 3 months to a year before it hits Australia.
I must say I absolutely LOVED what I read and seen via video on Youtube about this projector.
The only thing I don't like is how it's lens sits to one side rather then central however it has plenty of placement/adjustment. I love it's added features to improve the 3D image.
It's best feature by a long shot from my understanding with the PT-AT6000E or PT-AE8000U is if you have a 16:9 screen and if watching a movie filmed like 95% movies are these days in 2.35 the projector either automatically fills the screen eliminating the black lines on the screen or you might have to push a button on the remote for this to take effect, either way its a MASSIVE bonus to have.
It's priced at 3,000 British pounds but I can guarantee you it wont be under $6,000 here in Australia.

Would you still chose the Panasonic PT-AT6000E or PT-AE8000U ahead of the Optoma HD83 even if Optoma's customer service was great in Australia?
Also for what its worth, I don't mind paying around the $6,000 to $6,500 for a projector if I know that the projector is excellent in 2D & 3D but when you go by price it's important to realise that a $4,000 Projector here in Australia will only be around $2,000 in the USA so if you can some how check the Australian prices as well it would be greatly appreciated. Remember im going for a large screen 150" and that the projector will be mounted about 6.1 meters or 20 feet from the screen.

You asked me "Does the calibration in the labour include an ISF certified calibration of the projector and receiver?"
I all honesty, I have no idea mate.

I will defiantly have to get a universal remote and will check out the Digital R50 but keep in mind that I need a universal remote that is going to be VERY VERY SIMPLE to use, because my parents are in there 60's and they cant even turn a computer on.
Due to my high disability I very much doubt that I could use most of the universal remotes on the market today because most are touch screen that only work using your finger tip. If they had a Universal remote that had chunky buttons then I could use that just as I use my current TV remote but it would need to be able to learn about 8 remotes.
I operate everything using a stick in my mouth, so im typing this now using a stick in my mouth (I hate voice activated software) I prefer to type it manually when it comes to operating my computer, I hate voice activated software for 2 reasons, firstly many times it doesn't recognise what you say and ends up typing something totally diffrent, secondly if I didn't type myself I would get so lazy that I would end up forgetting how to spell. :scratch:
However I do have a universal remote for my TV in my bedroom which I operate also using my mouth, I will need to get another one just for this room as this will need to hold many remotes such as my Projector, Amp, Ble-Ray, DVD recorder and Set top box or Pay TV. This is the universal remote that will work great for me in this room. http://www.tecsol.com.au/PROGC.htm

To complicate matters more at first I was going to have my projector on all day because most days I have my TV on for 10 hours a day, so I came to the conclusion BAD move.
So I still want to purchase a 60 inch LED TV also and either have it on a special fold away bracket or I could have my 60" LED TV bolted to my rock wall, but that would mean that I would then need to get a electronic projector screen in order for the projector screen to go in front of the LED TV but to be honest im not real keen on getting a electronic projector screen especially when your talking 150" I cant help but feel things will go wrong with it, the less electronics the better is my motto, not to mention I quite like the fixed screens.

I also want to get a Multi media player with a 3 or 4 TB hard drive because I record a lot of horse races but I am wanting to be able to make folders for each HORSE so to speak and then each time that horse races I can record its race under a file that has been named that horses name.
I guess it's like having a folder for all the different genre's in movies such as: COMEDY, THRILLER, HORROR, BIO, DRAMA & so on. I'm sure this can be done right?

I will be getting a 2nd Sub but to be honest I have a 2nd Sub and am hoping to use that. Its 21 years old but if its no good I will purchase a new one or the The SVS PC13

My Cousin and father wired my room with Cat-6 & RG6 cable, I will be using HDMI extenders at the end of the Cat-6. I also ran 2 speaker cables of 12 AWG OFC to the back of my pillar just in case I want to put 2 extra speakers on the lower part on the pillar which is only 3 feet wide but its literally directly about 4 feet behind the seating area because at the time I thought that would allow me to get better positioning for rear speakers so I thought I would run the speaker wire just in case, even though its probably a silly idea.

P.s. I tried loading the photo of my rear speakers but for what ever reason it isn't loading.

Thank you so much for all your input you have helped me allot already if you have more advise please keep it coming.
Regards
Dean
 

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“So from the Front speakers to the side speakers would be 9 feet and from the side spekers to where the seating area is would also be 9 feet and the rears would be about 3 feet further behind the seating area but on the side walls

A few things to consider:

Your side surrounds may be a little muffled due to the trophies hanging on either side of them, try to keep at least 3 feet of open wall to either side.

Your Rear surrounds though further away are still at the sides and will not radiate their sound properly as they should be “aimed” at the listening area. You can probably accomplish this by mounting them on a mount that extends out from the wall and pivots towards the listening area. Or, you can move your rear surrounds to the pillar where you can attach a 3 foot long bracket to either side, hang and angle them down to the listening area.

“Is there a site or forum that have something like the Top 10 2D & 3D projectors”
www.projectorcentral.com also you can find prices from US stores, you would have to call them to see if they deliver to AU.

"I was also told by one dealer, that he took home 4 different projectors and set them up and after everything was set up he asked a couple of friends and his family to pick the clearest projector in both 2D &
3D and ALL of them chose the Optoma HD83 and he said he had a $12,000 projector in those 4 demos that he done which wasn't no where as clear as the HD83, he also told me the name of that $12,000 projector but I forgot what it was."


Question is whether the projectors were demos with “out of the box” i.e. default settings or were they all properly calibrated. If I remember correctly the Optoma are adjusted at the factory to look very nice right out of the box, for those plug and play types.

"You asked me "Does the calibration in the labour include an ISF certified calibration of the projector and receiver?"
I all honesty, I have no idea mate."


IMHO not getting a projector calibrated via an ISF certified specialist is like getting your hands on the Holden Efijy and showing it off to people in a dark garage, especially the Panny which loves to be tweaked.

Would you still chose the Panasonic PT-AT6000E or PT-AE8000U ahead of the Optoma HD83 even if Optoma's customer service was great in Australia?

For me personally Yes, to have cinescope in a room of that size would be awesome imho…:D Also the motorized zoom and adjustments make life a little easier. BUT if as you said you would have to wait 3 months to a year to get the latest Panny (8000U) I would re examine the Optoma comparing it to last years modle Panny (7000) if its available, Also if the price difference is exorbadant and over budget I would have to reevaluate sadly..:crying:

"I will defiantly have to get a universal remote and will check out the Digital R50 but keep in mind that I need a universal remote that is going to be VERY VERY SIMPLE to use, because my parents are in there 60's and they cant even turn a computer on."

Once the remote is programmed via a computer its operation should be simple (one button to turn everything one and set the input/outputs) here is a review of the R50 along with the website with review for many many others. http://www.remotecentral.com/reviews/urc_r50/index.html

In your specific case I would also contact a home automation installer that carries such companies as Control4, AMX, Crestron, Savant to see if any of the touch screens can be activated using a probe such as a stick. The cost will be considerably more but the convenience of having everything from the HT equipment to the lights to the heat..etc may be worth it to you.

Lol just like me to start responding before reading the whole paragraph. I can see that that tecsol remote should work beautifully for you..:)

Reference buying a 60" LED TV:

There is another option, there are projectors that have LED lamps that last for years. Here is a link to a inexpensive one that I have never seen tested as its new to the market. Considering the price I wouldn’t say the quality would be fantastic but also considering the price it may be worth a gamble. You could mount it just underneath the main one. This way you use the same screen for both. http://www.pylepro.com/store/viewitem.asp?sku=PRJ3D89

“I also want to get a Multi media player with a 3 or 4 TB hard drive because I record a lot of horse races but I am wanting to be able to make folders for each HORSE so to speak and then each time that horse races I can record its race under a file that has been named that horses name.
I guess it's like having a folder for all the different genre's in movies such as: COMEDY, THRILLER, HORROR, BIO, DRAMA & so on. I'm sure this can be done right?”


I am sure it can, however you will have to find yourself a computer geek that can build you an HTPC and configure some multimedia software to do what you looking for. XMBC is a free software that may be up to the task but I am not sure.

“One is glad to be of service” (movie reference)
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
“so from the front speakers to the side speakers would be 9 feet and from the side spekers to where the seating area is would also be 9 feet and the rears would be about 3 feet further behind the seating area but on the side walls

100% correct

a few things to consider:

Your side surrounds may be a little muffled due to the trophies hanging on either side of them, try to keep at least 3 feet of open wall to either side.

the side speakers wont be able to be wall mounted, they will have to be floor standing.

your rear surrounds though further away are still at the sides and will not radiate their sound properly as they should be “aimed” at the listening area. You can probably accomplish this by mounting them on a mount that extends out from the wall and pivots towards the listening area. Or, you can move your rear surrounds to the pillar where you can attach a 3 foot long bracket to either side, hang and angle them down to the listening area.

noted and will consider it thats for sure

“is there a site or forum that have something like the top 10 2d & 3d projectors”
www.projectorcentral.com also you can find prices from us stores, you would have to call them to see if they deliver to au.

i wouldn't get a projector or anything like that from another country, firstly because the usa use 110 volts and here its 240 volts and if you change the wall socket to a 3 point plug or to a australian power socket you lose your warentee.
Secondly i found out the hard way once when i purchased a notebook from the usa which came with a 2 year warentee but after about 8 months it packed up on me but they refused to fix it because they told me i should have purchased it through a athorised dealer in australia.

"i was also told by one dealer, that he took home 4 different projectors and set them up and after everything was set up he asked a couple of friends and his family to pick the clearest projector in both 2d &
3d and all of them chose the optoma hd83 and he said he had a $12,000 projector in those 4 demos that he done which wasn't no where as clear as the hd83, he also told me the name of that $12,000 projector but i forgot what it was."


question is whether the projectors were demos with “out of the box” i.e. Default settings or were they all properly calibrated. If i remember correctly the optoma are adjusted at the factory to look very nice right out of the box, for those plug and play types.

great point i have no idea if he calibrated them all or just showed them straight out the box

"you asked me "does the calibration in the labour include an isf certified calibration of the projector and receiver?"
i all honesty, i have no idea mate."


imho not getting a projector calibrated via an isf certified specialist is like getting your hands on the holden efijy and showing it off to people in a dark garage, especially the panny which loves to be tweaked.

noted and will make sure who ever is installing my a/v system is isf certified

would you still chose the panasonic pt-at6000e or pt-ae8000u ahead of the optoma hd83 even if optoma's customer service was great in australia?

for me personally yes, to have cinescope in a room of that size would be awesome imho…:d also the motorized zoom and adjustments make life a little easier. But if as you said you would have to wait 3 months to a year to get the latest panny (8000u) i would re examine the optoma comparing it to last years modle panny (7000) if its available, also if the price difference is exorbadant and over budget i would have to reevaluate sadly..:crying:

the more i read about this pt-ae8000u the more i want it. Can you answer this, if i got the pt-ae8000u am i right in thinking it's the 16:9 screen you would want to get? This way you get to see both 16:9 which is very popular with tv viewing but the added bonus is that it also allows you to watch the aspect ratio 2.35 which is the way almost all movies are recorded in hollywood. Does it change the format automatically or is it just a push of a button on the remote.
Or am i understanding it the wrong way if you purchase the pt-ae8000u? Do you want your screen ratio to be 2.35? I just cant see that working because the 2.35 screens are not as high as 16:9 but wider and i cant help be think if you had a 2.35 screen and you watched something in 16:9 then there will be a lot of image over thrown for example the image would end up being projected on the top and bottom of my rock wall, thats just how im imagining it would work. I will be calling panasonic tomorrow to see when this projector is due to land in australia

"i will defiantly have to get a universal remote and will check out the digital r50 but keep in mind that i need a universal remote that is going to be very very simple to use, because my parents are in there 60's and they cant even turn a computer on."

once the remote is programmed via a computer its operation should be simple (one button to turn everything one and set the input/outputs) here is a review of the r50 along with the website with review for many many others. http://www.remotecentral.com/reviews/urc_r50/index.html

thanks mate.

in your specific case i would also contact a home automation installer that carries such companies as control4, amx, crestron, savant to see if any of the touch screens can be activated using a probe such as a stick. The cost will be considerably more but the convenience of having everything from the ht equipment to the lights to the heat..etc may be worth it to you.

Lol just like me to start responding before reading the whole paragraph. I can see that that tecsol remote should work beautifully for you..:)

yeah they are great as they hold many commands, i owned one for many years now i have one that works the same way but the one i currently have is the relax this is a link to it: http://www.tecsol.com.au/relax.htm it's a awesome unit but is limited to only 5 remotes so to speak or a total of 50 commands, where as the prog can store upto 14 remotes and up to 240 commands which will do everything for me.

reference buying a 60" led tv:

there is another option, there are projectors that have led lamps that last for years. Here is a link to a inexpensive one that i have never seen tested as its new to the market. Considering the price i wouldn’t say the quality would be fantastic but also considering the price it may be worth a gamble. You could mount it just underneath the main one. This way you use the same screen for both. http://www.pylepro.com/store/viewitem.asp?sku=prj3d89

hmm worth a thought, thats for sure. :scratch:

“i also want to get a multi media player with a 3 or 4 tb hard drive because i record a lot of horse races but i am wanting to be able to make folders for each horse so to speak and then each time that horse races i can record its race under a file that has been named that horses name.
I guess it's like having a folder for all the different genre's in movies such as: Comedy, thriller, horror, bio, drama & so on. I'm sure this can be done right?”


i am sure it can, however you will have to find yourself a computer geek that can build you an htpc and configure some multimedia software to do what you looking for. Xmbc is a free software that may be up to the task but i am not sure.

thanks again mate you have helped me greatly, although if i dont get the panny pt-ae8000u i might want to put you on my wall.:paddle: Just kidding mate

“one is glad to be of service” (movie reference)
"bicentennial man"???
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
It's amazing what 24 hours does.
I just typed "When is the Panasonic PT-AE8000 due to arrive in Australia" in Google and im now finding Australian sites at least recognising that there is a new Panny. On Google there is a site called: "Panasonic PT-AE8000E projector $4,999 - Hot.com.au"
However when you click on the site, which is: http://www.hot.com.au/price/panasonic-pt-ae8000-projector
It stipulates this on there site: "Be the first to know when the Panasonic PT-AE8000 is officially released in Australia! Contact us to get on our notification list and find out as soon as we've got pricing and stock available"
So that price of $4,999 is not accurate enough to go by at this stage although I'm guessing it will cost around that mark. The 7000 is $3,300 here today. I can imagine how cheap the 7000 is in the USA. On a different topic to give you a idea a BMW 328i Sedan costs $66,500 stock standard here in Australia, in the USA they cost half the price, it makes me want to:crying:

On the posative side of things, after seeing this I think they will be here within the next 1 to 3 months at the latest. I don't mind waiting that long.

What I have a slight concern with on the PT-AE8000 is because my projector will be wall mounted on a 18 inch pillar, my real concern is because the lens is not in the centre, will I be able to make up the difference using the image shift.
The projectors dimensions are: 5.9" x 18.5" x 14.3" (HxWxD) So the projector will be slightly wider then my pillar which is fine as the projector will be on a bracket sticking slightly away from the pillar.
However its Lens shift is +/-100% Vertically, and +/-26% Horizontally.

I'm not sure if that +/-26% Horizontally lens shift will be enough. I'm not totally sure if a 150" screen comes into account when dealing with lens shift also?

Regards
Dean
 

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many many projectors have off centre lenses I can't see this being a factor when aiming it straight forward.

Your screen would be 2.35 and would have a masking system. Now you can view a 16:9 or 4:3 picture without a masking system but it woudn't look a nice because the picture would "bleed" into the white screen on either side. Masking systems can be manual or automatic, however, I would not be able to advise you on their costs. perhasp the company http://www.ozts.com.au/cinemascope.htm can advise you. I know this is all adding up so I can understand that the Optoma is starting to look better financially. The only alternative to using a masking system that I know of is going with a black screen such as one from screen innovations (Black Diamond) but I don't know if that is available in AU http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/home-theater-audio-video-news/61717-screen-innovations-shows-off-projection-screens-work-bright-rooms-cedia-expo-2012-a.html Review: http://www.hometheater.com/content/screen-innovations-black-diamond-ii-hd-projection-screen


There are a couple of other vidoes on youtube but unfortunately they are not in english.

I also wondered about the remote can it be programed that it does multiple different things with one key press? i.e. Pressing A, Turns on the projector, turns on the receiver, turns on the bluray, adjust the video inputs/outputs of the receiver/projectors, lowering the lights. Pressing B does all the remote functions to adjust the componets to watch TV..etc. etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
many many projectors have off centre lenses I can't see this being a factor when aiming it straight forward.

Your screen would be 2.35 and would have a masking system. Now you can view a 16:9 or 4:3 picture without a masking system but it woudn't look a nice because the picture would "bleed" into the white screen on either side. Masking systems can be manual or automatic, however, I would not be able to advise you on their costs. perhasp the company http://www.ozts.com.au/cinemascope.htm can advise you. I know this is all adding up so I can understand that the Optoma is starting to look better financially. The only alternative to using a masking system that I know of is going with a black screen such as one from screen innovations (Black Diamond) but I don't know if that is available in AU http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/home-theater-audio-video-news/61717-screen-innovations-shows-off-projection-screens-work-bright-rooms-cedia-expo-2012-a.html Review: http://www.hometheater.com/content/screen-innovations-black-diamond-ii-hd-projection-screen

Thanks again, im leaning towards your idea of getting a motorized screen and having the 60" LED TV directly mounted on the rock wall, this way when the screen is down you wont see the LED TV.
The overall look of everything if done this way will look so much more professional with out a doubt.
I have no doubt that I will get very little change from $20,000 if I were to get a Black Diamond 150" motorized screen, The Panasonic PT-AE8000 projector, either a Integra DTR 70.3 or the NAD T777 Receiver, Oppo BDP-95 Blu-Ray and a DVD recorder. However I don't mind spending that kind of money providing it will look Awesome & sound Awesome.

You said this:
"Your screen would be 2.35 and would have a masking system. Now you can view a 16:9 or 4:3 picture without a masking system but it woudn't look a nice because the picture would "bleed" into the white screen on either side."

Excuse my lack of knowledge when it comes to all this AV stuff.
I'm a little confused on this masking topic now. If I purchased the Panasonic PT-AE8000 Projector which can automatically change the aspect ratio from 2.35 to 16:9
Secondly if I purchased a 2.35 screen would the screen still need to have a masking system?
Lastly if I was able to purchase a motorized 150" 2.35 Black Diamond screen would it still need a masking system? The reason I ask this is because Black Diamond say there is no need for masking when purchasing a Black Diamond screen, however how true this is I don't know

IFA 2009 - Panasonic PT-AE4000 Auto Zoom - YouTube

There are a couple of other vidoes on youtube but unfortunately they are not in english.

I also wondered about the remote can it be programed that it does multiple different things with one key press? i.e. Pressing A, Turns on the projector, turns on the receiver, turns on the bluray, adjust the video inputs/outputs of the receiver/projectors, lowering the lights. Pressing B does all the remote functions to adjust the componets to watch TV..etc. etc.
That would be very very handy to say the least especially for someone in my situation but to my knowledge there isn't anything like that on the market.
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
Reading more about the black screen I can see how it would be very benefical to you especially if you room won't be completely dark for watching. http://www.trustedreviews.com/screen-innovations-black-diamond-zero-edge_Projector_review
My Trophy Room gets almost pitch black when everything is shut and with no lights on.
When walking in the room there are 2 large windows on the left that have electric shutters which block out 95% of the light and when the curtains are drawn there's no light at all entering the room from these 2 windows.
On the right side I have 3 small windows that are 2 feet wide by 7 feet high, each window are always closed with timber Venetian blinds which still let in a little light on that right side, as I just closed all blinds, curtains, lights and TV off just to see how much light actually enters the room through these 3 small windows.
The best way to explain it would be to say a little light enters the right side from these 3 windows as I can see that the rock wall is a little brighter on the right side compared to the left side. The room it self I wouldn't say gets to pitch black once everything is off, but the room is defiantly very very dark once everything is closed.
If I turn my 60" rear projection TV on, you still need to watch where your walking otherwise you'll walk into a animal.

To give you a better idea, there is no way you can read a thing if your sitting even 10 feet away from the TV while its on, no matter how big the TEXT is on your book. It's fair to say this room is as dark, actually id even say its darker then any cinema with my 60" rear projection TV on. However in saying that everything else is closed and off in the room.
So it might not be worth me just concentrating on just a Black Diamond screen unless they are one of the best screens on the market while in a very dark room

Regards
Dean
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Reading more about the black screen I can see how it would be very benefical to you especially if you room won't be completely dark for watching. http://www.trustedreviews.com/screen-innovations-black-diamond-zero-edge_Projector_review
I just wanted to let you know that I just found a Black Diamond distributor here in Australia.
This is there link: http://networkav.com.au/screens

I'm going to email them and ask them how much will it cost for a 150" Motorized Black Diamond screen that is excellent for both 2D and 3D. As far as I can understand when purchasing a BD screen there is no need for masking.

I copied this and pasted it below, what BD stipulate. I don't really understand why BD screens don't need to be masked
* Screen Innovations has a competitive range of screens for any Video application.
* Aspect ratios include 4:3, 16:9, 16:10, 2:40 and 235:1
* Size from 80-215 inches * when using the Black Diamond screen no masking is needed
* reference screens are available in 6 different materials; including woven acoustic transparent
* curved screens available in 2:35 & 2:40 for a true home cinema experience
* 2K, 4K & 3D ready

When I hear back from them with a quote, I will let you know. I may fall off my chair when I see the price... :dontknow:

Regards
Dean
 

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Sorry I haven’t responded in a bit, I had a problem with my shack account and was locked out….sob..:)

Between the Integra and the NAD I would still choose the Integra because of the Audyessy room EQ

The Panny 8000 allows you to change the aspect ratio of the movie to fit how it was filmed. I.e. if it was filmed 16:9 you wouldn’t “expand” it to 2.35 as you would see the picture “stretched” and it wouldn’t look good. However, if the film was done in 2.35 and you watched it in 16:9 you would “lose” the extra picture that 2.35 provides (i.e. the picture would be cropped). So the project lets you maximise to 2.35 IF that aspect is available in the recording your have. The movie packaging should tell you how the movie was recorded.

So if your movie is inherently 16:9 and you watch it on a White 2.35 screen without a masking system your picture isn’t a crisp rectangle, the masking system is black and absorbs the light coming from the projector giving you a nice edged screen. Without that the extra white sides of the 2.35 screen reflects the light which in turn can bleed out the colors and the brightness of the edge of the movie, decreasing the wow and awesomeness..:)

The Black Diamond doesn’t need the masking system because it’s “Black”. Normally this would be ludicrous because a black screen will absorb all the light of the projector and you wouldn’t be able to see a picture, however, they figured out a way around that, don’t ask me how, its supposedly a company secret, but whatever they did according to reviews it works. Additionally, and this is good for you, you can watch a movie without having the room in pitch darkness for the best picture. You can have ambient lighting so that you can move around without bumping into anything.

A professionally programmed system remote from AMX, Control 4, Savant, and Creston will be able to store multiple functions in one push of a button. Example, you’ve put the DVD into the machine and have now placed yourself dead centre to watch. Your control could have a button that is labelled “watch movie”. You press this and:

The lights dim, the screen comes down, the receiver turns on, selects the appropriate input, the blu-ray starts playing. You can have another button for “Pause” which pauses the movie and brings up the lights….with the right dimmer and switches you can do almost anything your heart desires.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Sorry I haven’t responded in a bit, I had a problem with my shack account and was locked out….sob..:)

Between the Integra and the NAD I would still choose the Integra because of the Audyessy room EQ

The Panny 8000 allows you to change the aspect ratio of the movie to fit how it was filmed. I.e. if it was filmed 16:9 you wouldn’t “expand” it to 2.35 as you would see the picture “stretched” and it wouldn’t look good. However, if the film was done in 2.35 and you watched it in 16:9 you would “lose” the extra picture that 2.35 provides (i.e. the picture would be cropped). So the project lets you maximise to 2.35 IF that aspect is available in the recording your have. The movie packaging should tell you how the movie was recorded.

So if your movie is inherently 16:9 and you watch it on a White 2.35 screen without a masking system your picture isn’t a crisp rectangle, the masking system is black and absorbs the light coming from the projector giving you a nice edged screen. Without that the extra white sides of the 2.35 screen reflects the light which in turn can bleed out the colors and the brightness of the edge of the movie, decreasing the wow and awesomeness..:)

The Black Diamond doesn’t need the masking system because it’s “Black”. Normally this would be ludicrous because a black screen will absorb all the light of the projector and you wouldn’t be able to see a picture, however, they figured out a way around that, don’t ask me how, its supposedly a company secret, but whatever they did according to reviews it works. Additionally, and this is good for you, you can watch a movie without having the room in pitch darkness for the best picture. You can have ambient lighting so that you can move around without bumping into anything.

A professionally programmed system remote from AMX, Control 4, Savant, and Creston will be able to store multiple functions in one push of a button. Example, you’ve put the DVD into the machine and have now placed yourself dead centre to watch. Your control could have a button that is labelled “watch movie”. You press this and:

The lights dim, the screen comes down, the receiver turns on, selects the appropriate input, the blu-ray starts playing. You can have another button for “Pause” which pauses the movie and brings up the lights….with the right dimmer and switches you can do almost anything your heart desires.
Andre,
Glad to see you have worked things out with your Shack account, welcome back mate.
I am strongly considering getting a screen in 2.35 because I will be watching movies on this most of the time and from all my research 80% of movies are recorded in the 2.35 aspect ratio, that's really the only reason why I'm leading towards a screen in 2.35

I have decided against Black Diamond, they quoted me $15,000 for a motorised screen in 147" they said they don't go bigger then 147" and there motorised screen isn't even tentioned which I think is far to expensive.
If my room had problems with controlling ambient light then I can totally understand looking into the Black Diamond screen but because I can control the light theres no way I'll be paying that much.

I got a quote from Technics Screens, they quoted me $6,940 for a 170" screen in 2.35 with Matrix white and flocking with motorised dual masking, it's there top of the line screen. They genrally don't go larger then 150" which is $5,940 but they said that they will do a 170" if that's what I wanted.

I LOVE the sound of that AMX remote control, that would make life a little easier and will make note of that.

I have been reading more and more about the Sony 95ES, almost all the reveiws I have read about it mention that when watching 3D then its reccomended that the screen is no larger then 100" for 3D viewing due to the darkness. I really started to like what I read about this projector apart from that fact.
I really want to go and look at this Sony 95ES and see it projecting a image within the next couple of weeks.

I also want to check out the Epson TW9000 because I need a black projector, the more common Epson TW9000W is white and most people I speak to have never heard of the Epson TW9000, The differences being that the TW9000W is white and ships with a WirelessHD transmission system while the
TW9000 is black and doesn’t support wireless video transmission.

Regards
Dean
 

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You will have to pick your projector Before you order a screen. The reason being is that the company you buy from will have to calculate the screen Gain (the higher the gain the more reflective, lower brightness projectors will require a higher gain screen). The screen brightness you will want to hit is about 14FL at the screen minimum for 3D viewing.

You will want to make sure the projector you purchase will be able to project an image of the size you wish at the distance it will be placed (different lenses and zoom ratios will make this different from projector to projector)

If the projector you purchase does not have a power zoom freature that allows the automatic adjustment from 16:9 to 2.35 you will have to purchase an anamorphic lens (which will need a special mount, and will also have to be motorized which will cost big $$). I don't know which others besides the panny that has this feature.

Doing a Feature search on www.projectorcentral.com I asked for

1080 HD, Full 3D, 170" image at 20foot throw distance, Power Zoom, Power Focus, Vertical & Horizontal lens shift, with a price under 3k and only got the Panny 7000/8000 and the JVC DLA-RS40
 
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