[jamesee]

Hi all, long time reader first time poster.
Just to fill you in, 2 months ago I had some extra money and decided to buy some Klipsch RF3 towers and RC3 center, that were for sale locally. Well then it all started. These were the first real set of speakers that I have ever had. They handle bass well but I obviously needed more. So, I had a JL 10w0-8 sub that was in a car i had in high school. So I hooked it up to my old Onkyo receiver. It put out a lot better sound than the the "Home theater in Box" came with.
After a few weeks I noticed a staticy sound when "s's" were said in dialogs and in music. So I had a friend come over with his Onkyo 605 and we hooked it up to my Klipsch's. Boom, I got the bug. Instantly resolved the problem and I fell in love with my speakers.
Within a couple of days I had an Onkyo 607 in the mail. Then I had to fix the sub problem. I needed an amp(at the very least). So I also ordered a 240w Dayton off PE. I did some research and found an enclosure diagram on JL's website and built a sealed box to their specs, .75 cu/ft. Then found the winisd program and am still playing with it(kinda having a hard time). Winisd said I needed to build a 1.1 cu/ft box sealed, oh well.

That brings us to this point. I have not received the amp or the receiver yet.

The help I need is with winisd and with another sub.

Is there a guide on how to use the program? A terminology guide?

Also, I have used JL audio a lot in car audio and love them, I understand that subs are somewhat purpose built but how do you guys fell about the W3v3?
here are the specs from JL's website.

DC Resistance (Re) 3.563 ohm
Driver Displacement 0.071 cu. ft. / 2.01 liters
Effective Pistion Area(Sd) 80.600 sq. in. / 0.0520 sq. m.
Efficiency (1W/1m) 87.15 dB SPL
Electrical "Q" (Qes) 0.47
Equivalent Compliance (Vas) 2.844 cu. ft. / 80.54 liters
Free Air Resonance (Fs) 26.72 Hz
Mechanical "Q" (Qms) 7.57
Net Weight 14.50 lbs. / 6.58 kg
Nominal Impedance (Znom) 4 ohm
One Way, Linear Excursion (Xmas) 0.510 in. / 13.0 mm
Reference Efficiency (no) 0.31%
Thermal Power Handling (Pt) 500W
Total Speaker "Q" (Qts) 0.44

Are these good specs?
Sorry for the ignorance, just trying to remedy it.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[Mike P.]

Winisd said I needed to build a 1.1 cu/ft box sealed,

Most times the default box volume in WinISD is not the best solution for home theater. Post the T/S parameters and I'll show you what I mean.

There are two 240w Dayton amps, one with boost and one without. Which amp did you get?

There is a WinISD tutorial here:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...wnload-detailed-guide-how-use-winisd-pro.html

If you have any questions just ask. :T

​

 

[jamesee]

I did get the one with the boost.

 

[jamesee]

fs-25.6
qs-0.413
qms-8.56
qts-0.394
vas-2.45 cu/ft
xmax-0.34"
eff-86.3
sd-54.7 in sq
re-6.43
znom-8 ohm
pe-125 w

here are the specs for the JL audio 10w0-8

 

[jamesee]

any one have an opinion on the JL w3v3?
How do the numbers compare?
Oh yah and i can get it for $149.

How about any help with the 10w0-8?

 

[Mike P.]

Sorry about that, I don't know how I missed your recent posts. I'll model the sub as soon as I get off work.

 

[jamesee]

thanks, this can all get a little frustrating with so little experience.
Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Mike P.]

First things first, the amp with the boost is not the best for this. It might say in the amp's documentation how to remove it. The amp without the boost would have been much better.

Pink is the box you had, .75 sealed. Most box size recommendations from car audio manufacturers is for car audio applications where the extreme amount of cabin gain reinforces the low end output. What works for car audio doesn't work in a large room in a house.

Green is in 3 cu. ft. tuned to 23 hz. The hump in the response is from the 6 db of boost at 30 hz.

Yellow is the same box and tuning without the boost. As you can see the amp without the boost makes a big difference.

 

[jamesee]

What size and length port is it taking you to get the tuning at 23hz? Where is the rear port velocity?

Thanks for you help. Those graphs look much better.

 

[Mike P.]

The port length is 18.25" for a 4" diameter port. With the boost the air speed is 14.5 m/s, without the boost the air speed is just under 19 m/s.

 

[jamesee]

Ok I built the box. 3cuft 18.25" port. And WOW. It goes much lower than before and with the gain set a little over half I havnt hit bottom on the sub yet. BUT, it has lost a lot of its quick punch. Is this due to it being a ported enclosure? The port is facing up like a sono but the box is square. Is this a problem? Before the responses, let me point out that I know it is a cheap car sub. With that out of the way would using stuffing help the issue a bit.
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[Mike P.]

Did you modify the amp to remove the boost or did you use the amp as is?

 

[jamesee]

i am currently using it as is. i do not know how to modify it

 

[Mike P.]

Loss of the "quick punch" is partially due to the sub being ported but in this case it's probably has a lot to do with the 6 db of boost causing a big hump in the response at 30 hz as shown by the green line in post #8.

 

[jamesee]

If i call PE do u think they would help me?
How would removing the boost at 30htz help with the "quick punch"? Sorry just a noob question.
Posted via Mobile Device

 

[jamesee]

Ok time for some more noob help. I am definitely learning a lot from you guys thanks in advance. Here is a link to the info I got from PE.
Please help me decipher this jargon.
I have fairly good soldering skills and am confident I can do this but need a more Laman's term approach.
Kinda like "buy this and replace that"

 

[jamesee]

http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/300-804boost.pdf

 

[jamesee]

correct me if i am wrong but do i need to replace
R35 with a 18K
R36 with a 330K
for it to be flat to 20Hz with a -3db drop at 11Hz?

 

[Mike P.]

Yes, those are the values you need.

 

[jamesee]

how many watts?