[the colors]

In the off topic of the carpet thread that went into a tangen, I did some thinking and planning and realized that a drop ceiling would be more expensive than drywall one. So have to do some leveling of the exisiting joist which should be easy and only counted 3 hand holes that will have to go in for shut off valves. Now time to insulate!:T

 

[Ted White]

You can build a hatch for the ceiling access. PM me if you want a diagram.

 

[the colors]

You can build a hatch for the ceiling access. PM me if you want a diagram.

Thanks, right now in the middle of insulating and it is warm out so just sweating my but off.

 

[tonyvdb]

.... and only counted 3 hand holes that will have to go in for shut off valves. Now time to insulate!:T

You also must have access to all electrical junction boxes (they can not be covered by drywall).

 

[the colors]

You also must have access to all electrical junction boxes (they can not be covered by drywall).

I did count them and it is only 3 the other stuff I can move into the utility room.
When you guys say building walls decoupled from the foundation with those isolation brackets I built my walls a full 12" from the foundation. Now I finished insulating the ceiling WOW big diff without the drywall installed yet. I guess my next challeng is my HT spot does not have a door for its own room. It is sort of another living room in the basement that I am turning into a HT. I noticed that the sound goes right up the stairs like a funnel. Should I get a type of door that is sound proof?

 

[Ted White]

You can try an exterior door with weatherstrip. Or two of them such that when closed, they create an airlock.

Decouple the drywall from the joists if possible

 

[the colors]

You can try an exterior door with weatherstrip. Or two of them such that when closed, they create an airlock.

Decouple the drywall from the joists if possible

To late to decouple the walls from the joist's. Does it make that much of a difference if just left the way it is? I will be using the hat channel for the ceiling drywall and that will be connected to the joist also or?

 

[Ted White]

I was referring to the ceiling drywall on the joists. Clip + channel would do it.

Walls are fine as-is

 

[the colors]

I was referring to the ceiling drywall on the joists. Clip + channel would do it.

Walls are fine as-is

Sorry I am used to carpentry but not this kind so it's a bit new for me.
What is the web site that sells those clips?:huh:

 

[Ted White]

Many places sell many clips. To directly answer your question, we do, though I don't want to come across as a commercial.

 

[the colors]

Many places sell many clips. To directly answer your question, we do, though I don't want to come across as a commercial.

Sound away, I would rather buy from you guys since I did join your site.
What I do need is how they are installed in relation to the hat channel and joist's.
Also what is the price and in your opinion are they worth it in sound traveling both ways through the ceiling/floor.:whistling:

 

[Ted White]

To be clear, our company is not affiliated with the forum. See the link in my signature. Give us a call if you'd like.

 

[the colors]

Well after doing some homework at that site I feel better about what I am doing. Luckily above the HT area I purchased a higher end carpet and padding and since insulating there is a difference.
Another question how do you join the edges of the drywall to the walls.The hat channel does not go all the way to the corners. Is that ok and I like those Whisper clips, thinking about it.

 

[Ted White]

The ceiling clips don't all the way to the wall, but the ceiling drywall does. Right to the studs. THen the wall drywall buts right up to that ceiling drywall. No gap

 

[the colors]

Ok got it!,Now I just need to figure how many clips needed. According to the specs I can space them every 24" down the hat channel and how about side to side spacing?

 

[Ted White]

There's a clip calculator there, but essentially you can take the total sq. ft and divide by 5.

Rows of hat channel are spaced every 24" along ceiling. So you look up and see a row every 2 feet.

Lets take a look at just one row of channel. You'd see that there was a clip every 48" along the length of that one row of hat channel.

So not a lot of contact points, and large increase in the flex of that ceiling. Decoupling brings a whole other level of isolation. Nothing more than R19 is needed, from a practical standpoint. Insulation offers a better payback in terms of performance when installed in a decoupled system.

Same for the mass of the drywall. Double 5/8" rock is more effective if mounted on a spring (clips + channel).

The selection of the correct channel is critical. You'll get this locally, but here's an article that emphasizes the importance of proper channel. http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/library/articles/furring_channel_with_resilient_sound_clips/

 

[the colors]

Looks like I need 36 Whisper clips. I have to say spread out over 4ft seems scary but I guess the deflection is what absorbs the noise. So much to learn and when you think you have it figuer out they change the rules.lol:bigsmile:

 

[Ted White]

If using the proper channel you're good to go. Unless you exceed two sheets of 5/8". Then you have to change the pattern, with rows every 16" instead of 24"

 

[the colors]

If using the proper channel you're good to go. Unless you exceed two sheets of 5/8". Then you have to change the pattern, with rows every 16" instead of 24"

I will be using 1/2 drywall and maybe Green Glue with a second sheet of 1/2. This would be Ok?

 

[Ted White]

You really, really want the mass. Lot of work to limit the weight to double 1/2". Makes a big difference especially in the low frequencies.