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Discussion Starter #1
What technique do you use to drop a 50 lb sub in it? I assume most build with a recessed mount, and it is always a pita/game to get 'er done. I have heard of fishing line used, but don't know quite how that is implemented. Do you make handles (like a marionette) first? If you're like me, you will have to do it at least 3 or 4 times before it's done, once to listen, once after it's finished, yada yada.....
 

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I just hold it on the underside of the frame and slowly drop it into place angled so my fingers don't get caught. Then after securing it slowly roll the box over. Was a bit hard to do with my ED 18" and enclosure. Both together weigh over 200 lbs.

And I actually put my 2nd layer of baffle on after I put the driver in. Not sure if most do that or not, but it worked for me.
 

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I tip the cabinet over so that the hole where the driver goes is facing up...and then I'll just drop it in there. Maybe put the weight on one edge and then drop it from the height of my fingers. If your cabinet is going to be holding a 50lb driver, then there really should be no worry about just dropping it in as your cabinet should be able to handle it...the driver should have no problems either since it's gotta deal with crazy vibration all the time.
 

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As stated drop it in from the top, I have found that all these drivers have the nice heavy rubber gasket, it lends itself to a good thing to grip onto. Its plyable, and if your flex it and it seems like it will be deformed, it will settle back into its original shape. Line up the holes as best you can then lower it into the hole with that after you get it pretty close...

Each driver is its own different animal....
 

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A friend had a large driver to place in his box for his car and he used fishing line. He ran two pieces through 4 holes of the driver to form a square and then lowered the driver into the hole while his brother lined up the holes. Sounds funny but he said it worked great. Of course if you do this get the right strength line.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It's not the dropping it in that's difficult, it's the removal.
That is what was / is keeping me from listening to my sub right now. I (well, actually mostly my brother in law) have the cabinet done to a listening stage, but don't want to put it together until the veneer and finish are on. I only want to put it together ONCE!

It will also be easier to transport back to my house in two pieces.
 

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What technique do you use to drop a 50 lb sub in it?
honestly ? i use steroids. but i don't recommend it.

even so fingers are in short supply. i lost one when i was 17 ... i don't recommend that either.

i wish more subs used neodymium - it would make them much safer - especially for car audio use.

i can't really think of any safe way to handle a 80 lbs sub like my LMS though ... great question !
 

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How to install a heavy driver... I have 4 LMS 5400 18's, and on my big beast replica, it's easiest to install the drivers with the cabinet vertical. My recess is deep enough and very close to the diameter of the outer rubber gasket.

I simply pick the driver up, holding it at the top of the frame with the cone and front of the basket against my chest, or resting on my knees. Set the bottom down in the recess and release the top when you are close, one hand on the bottom where it's sitting in the recess. It sits there just fine. I connect the wiring afterwards through the PR holes. (some won't have that luxury)

I have removed them fairly easily by grabbing the rubber gasket and pulling the top out with one hand, other on the bottom. Once I get my fingers in the spoke of the frame, out it comes.
 

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I guess you are just lucky Mike or have better technique.

To remove my XXX's I'll use a small allen wrench or screwdriver and put it in one of the mounting holes at about a 45degree angle and use that to pull the driver up enough for person #2 to get a hold of the frame on one side. This is with a recessed driver BTW. Problem is we got it wedged bad one time and couldn't get the driver out. We had to drop it back in and try again. This resulted in me losing a lot of skin off of one finger. It hurt BAD.:teeth:
 

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how about this to remove, depending on your enclosure:

remove all but two mounting screws. INvert enclosure, driver facing down. Block it up over the top of a soft surface....folded up blanket, etc. While a friend holds the driver up in place, remove the remaining two screws with a shorty screwdriver. Then just lower the driver down. if you slip, just get your fingers out of the way...the driver should not be damaged if it falls on the blanket.
 

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This resulted in me losing a lot of skin off of one finger. It hurt BAD.:teeth:
when i was installing my LMS i used gloves made of very thick leather that i picked up at home depot for $10.

i rely on those gloves so much i have two pairs.

you always have to think about protecting your fingers and eyes.

life is a race against time to stop being an idiot before you kill yourself. i am not winning this race so far but not giving up either :boxer:
 

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Actually I think that one of the best techniques, if you use T-nuts or hurricane screws, is to get long bolts of the right thread pattern and grind the head off. Leave 2 or 4 of those in and remove the rest then those can guide and control the driver while you remove it up over the headless bolts. I was just too lazy to do this before. Someone recommended this to me before.

BTW I'm talking about the real heavyweight drivers here the 80lb ones. Those make mounting your average 35 -40lb driver seem like a piece of cake comparatively.
 

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I have always thought about an access panel on the opposite side of the enclosure. I know this may be difficult with the ported designs many of you use, but for sealed, it seems reasonable enough.
 
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