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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had this idea for a bookshelf without a specific driver in mind. It would be something like an anarchy 5.25" or 6.5" midwoofer with either one or two midrange speakers side by side up top along with maybe a ribbon tweeter above them in a sealed box. The jack would be at the back and will have the wire glued in the corner going up the port, along the top to a crossover embedded in the little wall and then down to the woofer/midwoofer. Inside the smaller box would be another crossover for the mids and tweeters. Hoping to get it done with a 5.25" and have a decent bass range with minimal space taken up. That way I can put 100+ watts into it and have an excellent sound all around. I have a rough draft made up in paint.

 

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Looks like a nice design, have you had your hands wet in DIY speakers before? In about 2 weeks as long as the weather keeps getting nicer i'm going to take my first real leap so i will certainley be curious of your turn out.:T
 

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This is a slot-ported box. It'll work well, just model the result before building using T/S parameters in something like Unibox of WinISD simulators. This long a port is rarely required by anything but a subwoofer. The mid-tweet box is good practice.

My real question is why you'd make such a small 3-way; there are a bunch of very nice MT designs this size out there....
 

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Looks like a decent design but picking drivers that will work nicely together is the trick. Then building a adequate crossover to finish it all off but don't get me wrong it is much more complicated than it sounds.

Hey bambino what drivers did you end up choosing. I remember you had a thread about building towers. I'm almost done Doing the finishing on mine.
 

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Hey bambino what drivers did you end up choosing. I remember you had a thread about building towers. I'm almost done Doing the finishing on mine.

HIGHJACK!: I ended up with Peerles HDS 6.5" bass drivers, Peerless HDS 5.25" mids and Vifa t25 1" tweets. Still waiting for a bit warmer weather before i start things off. I look forward to seeing your finished results.:T
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This is a slot-ported box. It'll work well, just model the result before building using T/S parameters in something like Unibox of WinISD simulators. This long a port is rarely required by anything but a subwoofer. The mid-tweet box is good practice.

My real question is why you'd make such a small 3-way; there are a bunch of very nice MT designs this size out there....
What are MT designs? I want to go with small foot print with a decent bass response. If the port is too long, I can shorten it and do some more to increase the internal space before the port starts and get about 1/2" of polyfilll lining the inside if needed. Now why would I have to worry so much about matching speakers if it's going to be a straight up cutoff with the crossovers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I can remember some decent sounding bookshelf speakers from 25 years ago by a company called Design Acoustics that utilized a downfiring woofer.
Well if I was going to do that, I would get one that would fit under the midwoofer, keep the port the same except have it vent out the back. When I thought about one that would fit, a downfiring woofer in a bookshelf just seemed like an awful idea as far as sound direction goes considering these would hopefully drop off at about 50hz given the size (if I'm lucky).
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm going to have to wait to open that link. The reason I'd want two mids is power handling. I know the midwoofers take most of the heat in regards to power consumption. I see other builds involving multiple 4.5" full range speakers. That is what I was thinking of using in regards to having two mids. If need be, I would seal them off from eachother. I was going to use the 16 ohm driver seen here.
 

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I'm going to have to wait to open that link. The reason I'd want two mids is power handling. I know the midwoofers take most of the heat in regards to power consumption. I see other builds involving multiple 4.5" full range speakers. That is what I was thinking of using in regards to having two mids. If need be, I would seal them off from eachother. I was going to use the 16 ohm driver seen here.
Now that's a nice looking midwoofer... 6mm xmax on that little guy! Does that mean you'd be crossing real low on the bottom half for those, like ~100Hz, or are you thinking MT/TMM/MTM now?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Now that's a nice looking midwoofer... 6mm xmax on that little guy! Does that mean you'd be crossing real low on the bottom half for those, like ~100Hz, or are you thinking MT/TMM/MTM now?
Unfortunately good sir, I do not know what those terms mean. The thought of having a crossover that low has occured to me, maybe a little bit higher around 120-150hz. What I wouldn't mind is finding a 4 or 16 ohm version of this tweeter to have a diagonal layout where it's a tweeter in the top left and mid right and a full range driver in top right and mid left if that makes any sense.
 

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Unfortunately good sir, I do not know what those terms mean. The thought of having a crossover that low has occured to me, maybe a little bit higher around 120-150hz. What I wouldn't mind is finding a 4 or 16 ohm version of this tweeter to have a diagonal layout where it's a tweeter in the top left and mid right and a full range driver in top right and mid left if that makes any sense.
That's what I was wondering, hopefully you have active Xovers planned. Otherwise the component values will be HUGE for a passive Xover that low. At any rate, two of those isn't a bad idea to keep sensitivity up... which will also be a concern for whatever woofer you have in mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
What do you mean by component values? I WAS going to go for a passive (and probably still will) as I want to have everything except an amp tucked away in the box. Also, what does MT/TMM/MTM mean?
 

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What do you mean by component values? I WAS going to go for a passive (and probably still will) as I want to have everything except an amp tucked away in the box. Also, what does MT/TMM/MTM mean?
Component values, as in uF and mH for coils and caps. Higher values get expensive quick.

MT, etc. are different arrangements for mids and tweeter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for the explanations. I think I'll try for a x-over around 150-200 for cost efficiency. I'm going on referance to the Anarchy 6.5" midwoofer with an Spl of 84.7 dB/1W/1M. Then with two of those full range speakers with an spl of 85.8 dB @ 1W, 1m. I tried to find an appropriate tweeter close to 4 ohms but the ones I did find had an SPL in the 90's. I found one with an spl of 89 dB 1W/1m that says 8 ohms but says Re: 5.5 ohms. I'm thinking I'll wire it up to 11 ohms and that will drag it down a bit volume wise. Is my thinking in this matter correct?
 

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I used a pair of off of the shelf xovers in a set of 3 way party speakers from PE and they are working out great. They only ran me like 45 bucks for 2 of them. They also had link-reily xovers from Dayton for not too much money.
 
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