[custard]

i have made the jump from 720p to 1080p and bought the hd20 to replace my the optoma hd65 i have.

delivery was received this morning so i hastily set it up to my 1080i source.
i took some pics with the projector set to the default reference and some ambient light present.

the reference setting is supposed to be as close to D65 as posssible. i'll test that as a starting point with a colorimeter when night falls.

 

[custard]

i was asked by a member in the uk to try and compare performance of my old and new projector

the pics are not the best...

HD20 on the left, HD65 on the right.

the HD65 has less than 50hrs on its current bulb.




firstly a comparison of the hd20 on reference default and the hd65 at my own calibrated setting.

note that the contrast/brilliant color on the hd65 had to be reduced to achieve a calibration i was happy with, and to remove the artifacts i use to see in bright scenes.

in the next set the HD20 was left at reference but the hd65 setting was changed to bright default.

 

[custard]

The biggest difference are whiter whites and image clarity. blacks are about the same.

i am able to sit much closer now without noticing SDE. the other point of note is that the grey ramp is smooth out the box unlike the hd65.

IMO the move up to 1080p was definitely worth the outlay.

 

[custard]

using PS3 media server i projected some 1920x1080 stills. camera was set on custom white balance (still not exact though to what i see in person).
the white side wall reflections are a problem for me which is why the projection wall is grey. i have partially calibrated the PJ.

hope the pics are better! photobucket downsizing of images is a bit of a problem.

 

[custard]

Very nice custard...
Are these still out of the box settings?

I would strongly recommend that you blackout as much as possible..around the screen perimeter, and along the sidewalls and ceiling, out from the front of the screen..similar to what Al Briscoe did..
This makes a huge difference to the perceived contrast..

i have partially calibrated as the reference setting was abit on the cold side.

you'll have to tell the missus that i need to paint/add a black border to her lounge wall and add curtains or darken the side walls.:heehee:

 

[custard]

Oh..I see! That's a pity..:sad:
Maybe some of this!! :kiss: :heehee:

well :kiss: has not helped me so maybe :spend: will work instead.

heres the calibration i have acheived so far. the color gamut is the one that is proving difficult.

the settings i have with 37 hours on the lamp.
mode: user
contrast: 47
brightness: 38
color: 53
tint: 46
sharpness: 8
noise reduction: 0
gamma: standard
curve type: 1
offset: -2
color temp: warm
red gain: 5
green gain: 0
blue gain: -5
red bias: -1
green bias: 0
blue bias: 0
lamp bright mode: off

 

[custard]

thanks for the advice Prof.

i expect the calibration setting to change afair bit upto 150hrs as i have already noticed a change in readings between now and when i first had the projector.


i'll stick with what i have for now.

 

[custard]

211 hours on the HD20 now. i have recalibrated and as Prof predicted the color gamut has settled down much better.

these settings are using a PS3 via hdmi. rgb was set to FULL with superwhite ON.

with my large grey wall been used for projecting onto i have tried to retain brightness as much as possible for myself but have also carried out another calibration where brightness is not an issue.

both of the calibrations were taken reflectively off a matte white panel.

REGULAR CALIBRATION

mode: user
contrast: 47
brightness: 40
color: 47
tint: 49
sharpness: 7
noise reduction: 0
gamma: standard
curve type: 1
offset: -2
color temp: warm
red gain: 4
green gain: 0
blue gain: -5
red bias: -2
green bias: -2
blue bias: -2
lamp bright mode: off



MY CALIBRATION SETTINGS

mode: user
contrast: 47
brightness: 37
color: 47
tint: 49
sharpness: 7
noise reduction: 0
gamma: standard
curve type: 1
offset: -2
color temp: warm
red gain: 7
green gain: 2
blue gain: -3
red bias: 1
green bias: 2
blue bias: 2
lamp bright mode: off

 

[custard]

Custard, I would like to know the size of your screen. Could you help me?

Regards...

my screen (or should i say wall) measures 122" diagonally for 16:9.
it is painted matte gray with a gain in the region of 0.85.
the measurements i have shown are taken using a white panel though.

coming from a former owner of the hd65 who moved up to the hd20 i would definitely recommend the upgrade.
If you are happy with the brightness of the hd65 on your large screen then i cant see you having an issue with the hd20 as i have found it to be brighter. there are some images i put up ealier in the thread comparing both.

 

[custard]

Good job Custard!

I have read somewhere else that calibrating the 100% color saturation points is good but not the best you can do. Actually this is because projectors do not tend to be linear in behavior and are generally less saturated than necessary below 100% color input signal.

What I mean is if you have a 100% saturated red input signal with the projector outputting 100% red color, if you try a 50% saturated red signal input, you'll most probably obtain 20 or 30% saturated red output. To overcome this, I calibrate my projector at 75% saturation points (approx.). This leads to a more linear response up to 75% saturation input signal (where most of the colors practically are), then you'll find that with a 100% input signal, you'll have an oversaturated output from the projector (but linear colors up to 75% input signal). And anyway oversaturated output is not that noticeable by the eye but a good 0-75% input range will make the picture more lively with more pop. From the other side, the power supply of the projector won't be able to deal with a lot of oversaturation, which is a good thing to limit the oversaturation error above 75% saturation input signal...

I don't know if I'm clear :scratch: but I'll be happy to elaborate a little bit more if you want me to!

Enjoy...

thanks for the info Blaser.:T

i have read this aswell.

i know Calman allows this but my free HCFR software version does not unless the figures are edited manually. it seems that previous versions had this facility but i cant seem to find this in the current version.
the problem with replacing the 100% saturation with 75% is that it messes up the gray scale calculations in HCFR.
i suppose the workaround for this would be to carry out two separate measurements for the color gamut and the gray scale.

i'll have a go with the 75% saturation this weekend...

 

[custard]

there are still some things i need working on....

its a fairly basic setup in my lounge with the hd20 on a wall mount that i made myself.

quite ugly looking but it works!


i'll get some pics of the hd20 in action over the weekend for you. do you need to see any in particular?

 

[custard]

Rmerlano and Blaser - looks like you guys have set my homework for the weekend!:bigsmile:

 

[custard]

Custard, more homework!!! :devil:
Do you have the posibility/choice of project an image of 150"?? :innocent:

i'm sorry but i can't - i am limited by the width and and depth of my room to the size mentioned before.

here is an album from a uk user of the hd200x which is pretty much the hd20 in a black casing.
i dont think i will be able to take pics to this standard...

http://www.apah20.dsl.pipex.com/hd200/

 

[custard]

Simple but effective custard..:T
I use the same idea with my HD65, only I have compression springs between the projector and the top plate..

the compression springs is a great idea.
i had considered using some more wingnuts underneath the plate aswell to provide similar stabilty to the springs you mention. the unit works fine without so i have left as is.

just though that i would mention that the lower plate of the two has holes about 5cm wide to allow for minor movement of the top plate and PJ horizontally and forwards/backwards.

 

[custard]

Ok, no problem, I understand the limitations. :T

About the pics of UK user, them look great!!!!!
Do you know the screen size of him? or do you know how to contact him?

Thank you for your help?

i cant remember the exact size but its smaller than mine so i think that does not help you.

as i said before the hd20 will work for you if you are happy with the brightness of the hd65.

 

[custard]

Custard, did you do your homework?? :devil:

:hide:

not yet.....opssign:

do you still need some images or are the photos from the earlier link enough for you?

 

[custard]

How is this Pj to set up without lens shift???

it does have limited placement options. the pj lens has to centred for the horizontal plane to keep the image square.

the digital keystone correction allows some height adjustment at the expense of losing 1:1 pixel mapping for 1080p.

my diy mount has some minor adjustable parts to help me acheive the optimal placement.

 

[custard]

Hi Custard,

I have tried both calibration methods and really prefer the 75% for its pop and life like quality. Keep us posted!:T

i did end up testing the 75% levels but found i could not improve on my settings.

i probably should have spent longer with it - i hope to have another bash at 75% once i reach 500hrs.