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Firstly, props for prompt reply
Secondly, at the risk of sounding like a complete noob, do these cords have a "brick" on them like laptop power cords or are they just plain cords. Just wondering how difficult it will be to track one of these down if they do have a brick
Thirdly, any experience/comments on using an Ikea Tupplar roller blind as a makeshift screen?
Thanks again
 

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Firstly, props for prompt reply
Secondly, at the risk of sounding like a complete noob, do these cords have a "brick" on them like laptop power cords
Yes..They are just like your everyday plug in electric jug cords...generally readily available..
Thirdly, any experience/comments on using an Ikea Tupplar roller blind as a makeshift screen?
Thanks again
I haven't used one personally, but they are very popular in the UK..
I looked into them once but couldn't find one big enough for my application..and that's their main limitation..otherwise they make quite a good screen by all accounts..
 

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Discussion Starter #24
211 hours on the HD20 now. i have recalibrated and as Prof predicted the color gamut has settled down much better.

these settings are using a PS3 via hdmi. rgb was set to FULL with superwhite ON.

with my large grey wall been used for projecting onto i have tried to retain brightness as much as possible for myself but have also carried out another calibration where brightness is not an issue.

both of the calibrations were taken reflectively off a matte white panel.

REGULAR CALIBRATION















mode: user
contrast: 47
brightness: 40
color: 47
tint: 49
sharpness: 7
noise reduction: 0
gamma: standard
curve type: 1
offset: -2
color temp: warm
red gain: 4
green gain: 0
blue gain: -5
red bias: -2
green bias: -2
blue bias: -2
lamp bright mode: off



MY CALIBRATION SETTINGS















mode: user
contrast: 47
brightness: 37
color: 47
tint: 49
sharpness: 7
noise reduction: 0
gamma: standard
curve type: 1
offset: -2
color temp: warm
red gain: 7
green gain: 2
blue gain: -3
red bias: 1
green bias: 2
blue bias: 2
lamp bright mode: off
 

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Good job Custard!

I have read somewhere else that calibrating the 100% color saturation points is good but not the best you can do. Actually this is because projectors do not tend to be linear in behavior and are generally less saturated than necessary below 100% color input signal.

What I mean is if you have a 100% saturated red input signal with the projector outputting 100% red color, if you try a 50% saturated red signal input, you'll most probably obtain 20 or 30% saturated red output. To overcome this, I calibrate my projector at 75% saturation points (approx.). This leads to a more linear response up to 75% saturation input signal (where most of the colors practically are), then you'll find that with a 100% input signal, you'll have an oversaturated output from the projector (but linear colors up to 75% input signal). And anyway oversaturated output is not that noticeable by the eye but a good 0-75% input range will make the picture more lively with more pop. From the other side, the power supply of the projector won't be able to deal with a lot of oversaturation, which is a good thing to limit the oversaturation error above 75% saturation input signal...

I don't know if I'm clear :scratch: but I'll be happy to elaborate a little bit more if you want me to!

Enjoy... :)
 

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Welcome to the shack Rmerlano!

What kind of help would be his screen size?? The size is a function of the distance to the seating postion or room dimensions if you want + personal preferences.

So if you want help, pls start with a description of your theater.
 

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I want to know his experience with large screen using the optoma HD20.

I let you know my config:

I have my dedicated Home Theater, its 29.5´x19.6´and 9´ceiling, the four walls has fiberglass as acoustic treatment with some kind of wood over it and the floor is covered by a carpet. I have a total control of light, we can reach total darkness... I seat at 18ft from screen. I watch movies in my 150" screen size.
(Please excuse my english, i´ll try to be clear).

My equipment consist of:

Receiver: Onkyo SR-TX706 7.1
BluRay player: Sony PS3 80GB
HD DVD Player: Toshiba HD A2
Projector: Optoma HD65
Screen: Elite Screen Matte White 150" gain 1.1
Audio: Left/Right Frontal Infinity Primus P252
Central Fronatl Infinity Primus PC250
Surround and surround back Infinity Primus P152
subwoofers 2 JBL L8400PCH 12"


For me, the config is pretty good, but I would like jump to 1080p.
My first option is the Optoma Hd20, now my question...
Do you think it´s a good option? I want to watch a real 1080p on my 150" screen.

That´s why I ask for the size, but if somebody can help me to decide if buy the HD20 or not, will be great!!!

Thank you!!
 

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Hey! That's a pretty big screen that no projector will power easily. Not sure about the HD20 though, but I am really cynical since you obviously need a light cannon and a high gain screen.
I have seen Epson models that are light Canons but not sure about the resolution though. Keep looking while waiting for the reply of Custard.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Custard, I would like to know the size of your screen. Could you help me? :)

Regards...
my screen (or should i say wall) measures 122" diagonally for 16:9.
it is painted matte gray with a gain in the region of 0.85.
the measurements i have shown are taken using a white panel though.

coming from a former owner of the hd65 who moved up to the hd20 i would definitely recommend the upgrade.
If you are happy with the brightness of the hd65 on your large screen then i cant see you having an issue with the hd20 as i have found it to be brighter. there are some images i put up ealier in the thread comparing both.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Good job Custard!

I have read somewhere else that calibrating the 100% color saturation points is good but not the best you can do. Actually this is because projectors do not tend to be linear in behavior and are generally less saturated than necessary below 100% color input signal.

What I mean is if you have a 100% saturated red input signal with the projector outputting 100% red color, if you try a 50% saturated red signal input, you'll most probably obtain 20 or 30% saturated red output. To overcome this, I calibrate my projector at 75% saturation points (approx.). This leads to a more linear response up to 75% saturation input signal (where most of the colors practically are), then you'll find that with a 100% input signal, you'll have an oversaturated output from the projector (but linear colors up to 75% input signal). And anyway oversaturated output is not that noticeable by the eye but a good 0-75% input range will make the picture more lively with more pop. From the other side, the power supply of the projector won't be able to deal with a lot of oversaturation, which is a good thing to limit the oversaturation error above 75% saturation input signal...

I don't know if I'm clear :scratch: but I'll be happy to elaborate a little bit more if you want me to!

Enjoy... :)
thanks for the info Blaser.:T

i have read this aswell.

i know Calman allows this but my free HCFR software version does not unless the figures are edited manually. it seems that previous versions had this facility but i cant seem to find this in the current version.
the problem with replacing the 100% saturation with 75% is that it messes up the gray scale calculations in HCFR.
i suppose the workaround for this would be to carry out two separate measurements for the color gamut and the gray scale.

i'll have a go with the 75% saturation this weekend...
 

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my screen (or should i say wall) measures 122" diagonally for 16:9.
it is painted matte gray with a gain in the region of 0.85.
the measurements i have shown are taken using a white panel though.

coming from a former owner of the hd65 who moved up to the hd20 i would definitely recommend the upgrade.
If you are happy with the brightness of the hd65 on your large screen then i cant see you having an issue with the hd20 as i have found it to be brighter. there are some images i put up ealier in the thread comparing both.
Thank you very much Custard!
I appreciate your comments, i´m very interested in buy the HD20. Hope in december have it under my ceiling!!
Have you completely setting the HD20 now?
Could you post more images?

:R
 

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Discussion Starter #34
there are still some things i need working on....

its a fairly basic setup in my lounge with the hd20 on a wall mount that i made myself.





quite ugly looking but it works!


i'll get some pics of the hd20 in action over the weekend for you. do you need to see any in particular?
 

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Thanks for the pics of the optoma, I like the idea :T
Any pic of any movie Full HD will be welcome. but if you have King Kong, Dark Knigh or Casino royale I´ll apreciate it..

:R :clap:
 

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thanks for the info Blaser.:T

i have read this aswell.

i know Calman allows this but my free HCFR software version does not unless the figures are edited manually. it seems that previous versions had this facility but i cant seem to find this in the current version.
the problem with replacing the 100% saturation with 75% is that it messes up the gray scale calculations in HCFR.
i suppose the workaround for this would be to carry out two separate measurements for the color gamut and the gray scale.

i'll have a go with the 75% saturation this weekend...
Hi Custard,

I have tried both calibration methods and really prefer the 75% for its pop and life like quality. Keep us posted!:T
 

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Thank you for the Optoma´s pics :T It´s a great idea.

About the next pics, any screenshot of any movie Full HD will be OK, but if i cana choose...

King Kong, Dark Knight, Casino royale, Transformers... would be excellent!!

Cheers and thank´s again.

RM
 

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It's a pleasant homework though, I'll be working during the weekend in a tender bid preparation :hissyfit:
 
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