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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Custard, more homework!!! :devil:
Do you have the posibility/choice of project an image of 150"?? :innocent:
i'm sorry but i can't - i am limited by the width and and depth of my room to the size mentioned before.

here is an album from a uk user of the hd200x which is pretty much the hd20 in a black casing.
i dont think i will be able to take pics to this standard...

http://www.apah20.dsl.pipex.com/hd200/
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Simple but effective custard..:T
I use the same idea with my HD65, only I have compression springs between the projector and the top plate..
the compression springs is a great idea.
i had considered using some more wingnuts underneath the plate aswell to provide similar stabilty to the springs you mention. the unit works fine without so i have left as is.

just though that i would mention that the lower plate of the two has holes about 5cm wide to allow for minor movement of the top plate and PJ horizontally and forwards/backwards.
 

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i'm sorry but i can't - i am limited by the width and and depth of my room to the size mentioned before.

here is an album from a uk user of the hd200x which is pretty much the hd20 in a black casing.
i dont think i will be able to take pics to this standard...

http://www.apah20.dsl.pipex.com/hd200/
Ok, no problem, I understand the limitations. :T

About the pics of UK user, them look great!!!!!
Do you know the screen size of him? or do you know how to contact him?

Thank you for your help?
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Ok, no problem, I understand the limitations. :T

About the pics of UK user, them look great!!!!!
Do you know the screen size of him? or do you know how to contact him?

Thank you for your help?
i cant remember the exact size but its smaller than mine so i think that does not help you.

as i said before the hd20 will work for you if you are happy with the brightness of the hd65.
 

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just though that i would mention that the lower plate of the two has holes about 5cm wide to allow for minor movement of the top plate and PJ horizontally and forwards/backwards.
That idea might just solve my problem!.:T
With an anamorphic set up, it's very difficult to fill the scope screen without using any zoom, if the projector is not quite exactly the right distance from the screen..
It only needs that small amount backwards or forwards to get the exact position..

At the moment I only have a single plate above the projector, so adding a second plate with large holes, will give me that fine adjustment!
Thanks for the idea custard..:T
 

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How is this Pj to set up without lens shift???
 

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Congrats! Pls make us a review once it's working :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
How is this Pj to set up without lens shift???
it does have limited placement options. the pj lens has to centred for the horizontal plane to keep the image square.

the digital keystone correction allows some height adjustment at the expense of losing 1:1 pixel mapping for 1080p.

my diy mount has some minor adjustable parts to help me acheive the optimal placement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Hi Custard,

I have tried both calibration methods and really prefer the 75% for its pop and life like quality. Keep us posted!:T
i did end up testing the 75% levels but found i could not improve on my settings.

i probably should have spent longer with it - i hope to have another bash at 75% once i reach 500hrs.
 

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If they offer a rebate like they did on the HD70 when I bought it, I'm going to have to upgrade.

4000:1 CR sure ought to blow my 1000:1 out of the water.
 

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Well firstly you're looking at two totally different projectors..

The HD20 is a DLP..and the HC720 is an LCD..
That's your first consideration, as to what type of system you prefer..

I've heard very good reports about both units, particularly for entry level projectors..
The HC720 is the brighter of the two, so if you have any ambient light considerations, or planning on using a grey screen, then that's something to take into account..

Optoma's certainly don't have a good reputation for lamp life..

The difference between 1080p and 720p. is debatable..
Some say that you can see the difference quite clearly, others say that they can't see any difference..particularly at this level of projector..with both types having low contrast ratio's..

If you're not able to see both units in operation (and then they would have to be viewed in the same environment) all you can do is go on other peoples experience with each type..
Well for better lamp life.First of all do not allow your projector to become overheated. The most frequently cause of lamp failure is excessive heat. Please follow the instructions in your user manual for powering down the projector and make sure that the projector has an adequate cool-down period. Operate your projector in a clean, relatively dust-free environment.Please make sure that you clean the air filters regularly. Utilize the "economy mode" if it is available with your projector model.
 

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Looks great 1080 is beautiful but i cant wait for 2560 x 1600 like the high end computer LCD's thats going to be the day nice set-up i like i think projectors are especially great for underground theaters where the light is not a factor that contributes to the pain received in watching movie.:nerd:
 

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I am considering purchasing an Optoma HD20 but I am curious as to which screen I should get. The projector will be going in my bonus room and screen will be placed about 11'6" - 12' away from viewing area. I am probably looking to get a 100" - 106" motorized screen (a LCD will be mounted to the wall behind it for everyday TV watching). This projector will only be used for sporting events, occasional video games, and movies of course.

Not counting the lights (which can all be turned off) there is 1 window in the room which can be covered fairly easily. I've been looking at Elite screens. Any suggestions would be great on what screen or screen material (matte white, maxwhite, gray, etc.)would be suitable to my situation. Thanks in advance.
 
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