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Owen's Dual UXL-18 Sealed Build

20180 Views 50 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Owen Bartley
I've been really looking forward to the subwoofer part of our eventual basement build, and I finally have made progress on that front.

I knew for a long time that I wanted to try a sealed approach this time, having had 2 different ported subs before (and currently). I thought I'd go for a pair of big ones, and when the opportunity came up last year I jumped on a group buy for a pair of Mach 5 / IST UXL-18s. These things are hand built in Canada by @mrogowski, and are extremely capable drivers. 34mm xmax, 1,200w power handling, 65lbs of woofage, and I now have a pair of them. :grin2: Just for reference, on pure displacement capability, I think a single one is capable of about 2.7 times what my Tempest can move.

I fiddled around a lot with enclosure sizes, WinISD graphs, and checking other peoples builds, and I settled on exterior dimensions of 20(w) x 20(d) x 22(h) for an effective net internal volume of about 3.3 cubic feet which should be very reasonable for this driver. I'll be using a MiniDSP on the pair in the final setup, likely working in a Linkwitz Transform to bring up the bottom end. Power will be from an iNuke 6000 (non-DSP), one sub per channel. Below is an approximate comparison of my existing SDX-10, Tempest, plain sealed UXL, and the same UXL with an LT applied.

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Looks like the neighbors will get to enjoy the power of the new subs also. :smile:
Looks like the neighbors will get to enjoy the power of the new subs also.
I ran into my neighbour when I was out cutting the baffles, and I told him I'd try to keep it down when they get set up. Lol.

I'm actually very curious to see how much sound will escape the basement and the house when all is said and done. Our house is detached, but the neighbour is about 5' away.

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I ran into my neighbour when I was out cutting the baffles, and I told him I'd try to keep it down when they get set up. Lol.

I'm actually very curious to see how much sound will escape the basement and the house when all is said and done. Our house is detached, but the neighbour is about 5' away.

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Our house is detached also and I live about 20' from the house next door.

My pair of 12" subs, when you crank them up a bit, can be heard to the end of the street. Bass really travels and can resonate inside other spaces pretty easily. You will definitely be cranking out some major 'subwoofage' ... you'll see!
Our house is detached also and I live about 20' from the house next door.

My pair of 12" subs, when you crank them up a bit, can be heard to the end of the street. Bass really travels and can resonate inside other spaces pretty easily. You will definitely be cranking out some major 'subwoofage' ... you'll see!
I was kind of afraid of that... lol. I know on some quiet nights I can hear bass from someone's house, and I doubt anyone in my 'hood has a really serious setup. Once I get everything all set up and dialed in to my liking, what I'm hoping to do is have my wife run demo scenes, and I'll walk around outside, and if necessary then pop in to each neighbour on either side of my house, just to see what its like. I'm sure being in the basement will help, and I'll have some degree of soundproofing. I don't think I'll be keeping anyone awake at night, but I wouldn't be surprised to have some sound outside the house for sure.
Deep bass sound waves can travel great distances, but it's not a linear spread of sound..
Your neighbour 5' away may not feel or hear anything, but the guy three doors down the road might have his teeth rattling or his eardrums bouncing!
There's no guarantee of who will be affected by it..
Owen, it's easy to get the center. Cut some small spacers to fill the gap created by the original cut. When you clamp it, it will be dead center. Just tap a nail through the cut out into the backer board. Clamp it together before nailing of course! You should be able to shave off the right amount. Don't worry about the spacers, just cut right through them. How much do you need to trim?
Deep bass sound waves can travel great distances, but it's not a linear spread of sound..
Your neighbour 5' away may not feel or hear anything, but the guy three doors down the road might have his teeth rattling or his eardrums bouncing!
There's no guarantee of who will be affected by it..
We'll just have to see who the unlucky neighbour is in this case, I guess! :rofl:

Owen, it's easy to get the center. Cut some small spacers to fill the gap created by the original cut. When you clamp it, it will be dead center. Just tap a nail through the cut out into the backer board. Clamp it together before nailing of course! You should be able to shave off the right amount. Don't worry about the spacers, just cut right through them. How much do you need to trim?
Thanks Tonto, I had a few minutes to myself last night, and I took a look at doing it this way. I think I can make it work, but the baffle is small enough that I can't fit clamps on the corners and get the router around. I do have a solution, I think.

I mocked up a board with the circular cutout on it, and played with spacing. Once I thought it was feasible, I centered the cutout and screwed it into the board, and put a couple of clamps on each end. Here's where it's going to get tricky... Since I'll have to remove the clamps as I go around those corners, I'm going to try to tape the board in place as a secondary method of securing it. If that won't hold without some wiggle until I can get the clamps back on, then I'll just have to screw into the backside of the baffle. I still have to measure my distance and add a new pivot hole to my template. I should get this all done over the weekend, and I'll post some pics on Monday.
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I'm still alive, and so is this project. It's been a few weeks of intermittent activity due to flippin' COLD weather and kid stuff, but I've slowly chipped away at things to the point where I feel like I can post again.

I managed to slightly enlarge the woofer cutouts successfully by reinserting the previous plug, screwed to a long board that I clamped into position on the baffle (thanks, @Tonto!). This, after very careful measuring, gave me my exact centre again, and let me use the router jig to go around and take an incremental amount off the inside. It worked very well, actually. To save time and trouble, I picked up a flush trim bit and used it to copy the cutout to the second baffle. It was my first time using one and I was quite impressed.





Once I was happy with the fit of both the inner and outer baffles, I glued them together and used the stack of unbuilt enclosure panels to weigh them down because I thought this would be more uniform pressure than I'd get with clamps.





Next I mocked up a test fit of the first enclosure to check my cuts, confirm assembly order, and to measure for some bracing. I had some vague plans for bracing, but when I saw the actual dimensions I have to work with I scrapped them and just made some on-the-fly decisions. The sides will have 3 cross braces, top to bottom will have 2, and the piece that is in place in the picture below is how the rear panel ties in to one of the 3 lateral cross pieces. I think this should do the trick when I get it all set up. I didn't have zipties handy, so I made some handles for the woofer out of twine. I also decided to bail out on the T-nuts and threaded inserts, and to stick with screws, so I started gluing blocks on to the back of the inner baffle to give some more depth to bite into.







I went to see if HD carried any nice looking black cap head screws, which they didn't. I did see these though, which look interesting, assuming the integrated washer head is the right size for the woofer basket. If I go with these I might shoot them with a bit of black paint before sinking them. Any thoughts?

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Coming along nicely, I see! Love those pics, thanks!!
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The screws look good Owen..providing they will fit in the basket rim..
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"When it rains it pours", I guess. I had some more time to put in work on the first cabinet, and glued up a second side (the top, in addition to a side, actually) as well as the remaining two "side to side" braces (sitting vertically now for glue-up. The side panel that is on top is just resting there to keep the 2 braces stable and square while they are glued at the "bottom" only. If I can continue to get a little in over the next few days I should be able to finish the first one by the weekend. But now that I just went and said that, and stated a date, guess what's going to happen...? :rolleyes: LOL

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The screws look good Owen..providing they will fit in the basket rim..
Thanks Prof. Next time I get out to HD I'll grab a pack and see. They seem like they'll do a good job. Am I overcomplicating this by not just using coarse thread wood screws or drywall screws with a washer? Probably... but I'm OK with that.
Yeah..I looked at all sorts of screw fixings including T nuts when I built my sub and finished up just using wood screws and washers!..
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Nice work Owen, mic the holes in the woofer before you go to HD, them mic the screws there. Save the trouble of getting them home & having to return them. I do like the way they look though, and I really like the torx feature.
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Nice work Owen, mic the holes in the woofer before you go to HD, them mic the screws there. Save the trouble of getting them home & having to return them. I do like the way they look though, and I really like the torx feature.
That's a great idea. I didn't buy that digital micrometer for nothing!

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And I now feel like I've accomplished something. Enclosure 1 is assembled, and came out not too badly. There were definitely mistakes made, but nothing too critical. The first half of the enclosure came together REALLY nicely and I was astonished at how tight my edges and corners were joining up. I squared up and glued in my last braces, and was pretty happy with how they worked out.



The first noticeable mistake came when I was test fitting the final panels, and - oops! - I had measured and cut the braces for an inset panel instead of a panel that would be attached to the outside of the adjoining walls. No big deal, I was off by exactly a panel width, so I added some spacers to the braces. You can see the blocks up on top. Now it's a nice tight fit.



My next mistake was the order I chose to assemble. Basically at this point I was left with 2 side panels and the baffle to go together in one step (because of the stepped baffle I couldn't slide it in very well if 3 sides were closed in). I thought I could manage it not too badly with the 7 long clamps I had, but I really should have had 3 more. I made due, and got strategic about where clamps went, and then I used weight on the baffle when I ran out. I could have used a couple more to help pull a few corners into square a touch better, but it came out OK.



The final result from this morning's unclamping. It's not the prettiest, but it's solid. It will need a good amount of filling and sanding before I can think about finishing it, but at least I do feel like I got a good seal. Almost all of the interior corners had a fair bit of squeezeout, which I was able to run a finger over to complete most edges. I'll probably run a quick bead of something over a few of the final joints internally just to be safe.



And now I get to do it all over again! With the next one I'm going to start with the baffle, and work my way around a side or 2 at a time. That should help me to keep things tight, and not leave me gluing in 3 dimensions at a time. I'll probably just post the final when the next one is completed, since it will be more of the same.

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For some reason I can't open the 4th page of this thread on my computer no matter what I try, so I can't edit that post to insert the pics. It's been that way for the last couple days on my work computer. I'll try from home tonight. Anyone else having trouble?

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Nevermind, all good now.
For some reason I can't open the 4th page of this thread on my computer no matter what I try, so I can't edit that post to insert the pics. It's been that way for the last couple days on my work computer. I'll try from home tonight. Anyone else having trouble?

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Tapatalk is most likely the culprit. Seems people have a lot of problems with that. On a laptop I can open any page of your thread.
Weird. I think it's my work computer actually, I can get on with Tapatalk just fine.

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OK, I've been shamefully neglectful of both this project and this thread, but I have made some progress since my last posts. The big holdup was that I was waiting for my new flush trim bit to come from China. It's a $6.00 Amazon special, and as you can see, it really is "trump card quality". But more to the point, it worked, and as far as I'm concerned it worked pretty well. I had a few wiggles, but overall didn't make too big of a mess with it.





Next I moved on to filling. I wanted to try something other than the Dap drywall compound I had used before, so I picked up a small tub of Elmer's ProBond Max wood filler. I think it would be nice when working with large areas or gaps, but since it seems to be textured, it isn't great for the tiny gaps I had here. I made it work, and there was only one area that needed buildup. At least it sands well.





Next, I wanted to get moving with the details on the enclosures. I had planned to do a large chamfer around the top of each box. When the time came to get to work, the chamfer bit I had wasn't very big, but I figured I could always get a bigger one and go over it later if I wanted. I ended up liking the profile as-is, so things were going great... until I realized that I had just done the SIDES of the enclosures instead of the TOPS. I had them with sides up after sanding, and hadn't remembered to check the orientation I was so gung-ho to start using the router. D'OH! Well, it just meant that now all corners would be subject to the chamfer treatment. Not the end of the world. My helper for the afternoon seemed to think they were still a good home for his dinos.





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