P50S601 blue power light flashing 3 times

84198 Views 108 Replies 12 Participants Last post by lcaillo, Aug 12, 2013

Jason1976

Discussion Starter · Jun 23, 2010 (Edited)

I think its the Y sub board. or am I wrong? I found into online that says when this happens it's the Y board.

powr light flashes 2 times and then pauses then flashes 3 times over and over again. only flashes twice once then after that it's the 3 flashes over and over again. when i unplug it and plug it back in standby comes on. then i hit power the screen comes on for a few secs then it goes off and the power light starts flashing.

I was reading on a web page that when it flashes twice then its the x board and if it flashes three times it's the y board.

only found that info on one page. i want to make sure it's right before i order the part.

other web pages ware saying the x board. so i want to make sure that 3 lights means the y board. or do i go by the first set of two flashes?

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Jason1976

Discussion Starter · #81 · May 26, 2011

like i said i always make low offers because I dont know if i can do anything with them or not. if the people dont like my offer for a non working tv then they can hold onto it. I'm not sure if you have a local craigslist for your area or not. When i see something on craigslist if the model isnt listed then i ask them what model it is and what is it doing and not doing. like any flashing lights or any lights on at all. if flashing how many flashes until it pauses and flashes again. Then I do online searches to try and find out what it could be. The one person I contacted them they were to far away from me But the issue they were having samsung was fixing for free. About 2 weeks later they sent me a thank you email saying that samsung sent a guy out and now their tv works like new again. They had the white dot issue with a year and a half old samsung dlp tv.

haojiang11

· #82 · May 26, 2011

Jason1976 said:
like i said i always make low offers because I dont know if i can do anything with them or not. if the people dont like my offer for a non working tv then they can hold onto it. I'm not sure if you have a local craigslist for your area or not. When i see something on craigslist if the model isnt listed then i ask them what model it is and what is it doing and not doing. like any flashing lights or any lights on at all. if flashing how many flashes until it pauses and flashes again. Then I do online searches to try and find out what it could be. The one person I contacted them they were to far away from me But the issue they were having samsung was fixing for free. About 2 weeks later they sent me a thank you email saying that samsung sent a guy out and now their tv works like new again. They had the white dot issue with a year and a half old samsung dlp tv.

It's a nice hobby you have there. Maybe you will get a couple nice TVs cheaply. There is craiglist for our area, and I've seen people selling broken TVs and used TVs. But I'm not good at fixing electronics. Also I don't want buy used flat screen TVs. I talked to a TV salesperon in Sears. He said most big screen TV only lasts like 5 years before breaking down, unlike those old tube TVs that lasts forever.

Bryancito

· #83 · Jun 17, 2011

Hi All,

I have read through the whole thread and I full of information ready to open my p50h401 and make it work. Unfortunately I am living in Mexico and the TV as well... my great companion that never leave the house

Anyway, I have the same problem as most of you, first it blinks 2 twice and then a sequence of 3 times continiouly. Now in my personal suggestion and reading around, I think the 2 blink at the beginning is due to the lack of response or time delay of the electronics to display the third one... like a sort of internal lag... so I think the 2 blinking is not an issue is more than "get ready for the real code"... A guy that the same prob but his blinked 3 times initially and then after this 4 times... so the first code is 1 less then goes into "this is the real code".

Back to my problem, how come my TV works fine most of the time and then doesnt work??!!!

I mean, sometimes it workd perfectly and then suddenly it goes into 3 blinking mode. I unplug for power, wait for 3 mins, plug back inand works for hours. Sometimes I have to do this like 2 or 3 times and walaaa... my TV is working great and even though I can have it for more than 6 hours working.

So, I dont think it is a heating problem, otherwise the TV would have turned off after and hour or so...

I am going to open this weekend and see if there is any visual damae. Any feedback or suggestions are welcome.

Cheers

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Jason1976

Discussion Starter · #84 · Jun 17, 2011

Bryancito said:
Hi All,

I have read through the whole thread and I full of information ready to open my p50h401 and make it work. Unfortunately I am living in Mexico and the TV as well... my great companion that never leave the house

Anyway, I have the same problem as most of you, first it blinks 2 twice and then a sequence of 3 times continiouly. Now in my personal suggestion and reading around, I think the 2 blink at the beginning is due to the lack of response or time delay of the electronics to display the third one... like a sort of internal lag... so I think the 2 blinking is not an issue is more than "get ready for the real code"... A guy that the same prob but his blinked 3 times initially and then after this 4 times... so the first code is 1 less then goes into "this is the real code".

Back to my problem, how come my TV works fine most of the time and then doesnt work??!!!

I mean, sometimes it workd perfectly and then suddenly it goes into 3 blinking mode. I unplug for power, wait for 3 mins, plug back inand works for hours. Sometimes I have to do this like 2 or 3 times and walaaa... my TV is working great and even though I can have it for more than 6 hours working.

So, I dont think it is a heating problem, otherwise the TV would have turned off after and hour or so...

I am going to open this weekend and see if there is any visual damae. Any feedback or suggestions are welcome.

Cheers

I would start with the power supply and check for puffy caps.

Bryancito

· #85 · Jun 17, 2011

Ok, Indeed. I have my guidelines and the docos you have posted. Hopefully it is only the Caps so I dont have to invest much on it becuase it cost me a fortune the tele over here in Mexico 3 years ago

In regrds to the Voltage testing... I find it hard to understand but I tihnk with 2 or 3 reading and testings I will get a grasp of it.

I will open this weekend and keep you posted.

Once again, many thanks

Bryancito

· #86 · Jun 17, 2011

BTW,

One techie question... Do I have to check the caps on the PSU and on the SDR's and Ysus? and if so, all of them or just the big one's?

Any pic reference?

Cheers.

Jason1976

Discussion Starter · #87 · Jun 17, 2011

Bryancito said:
BTW,

One techie question... Do I have to check the caps on the PSU and on the SDR's and Ysus? and if so, all of them or just the big one's?

Any pic reference?

Cheers.

with the sdr boards you check resistance. on the caps I only found bad ones on the power supply so far but if you see any that look domed on top or look like they are leaking thats not good and they should be replaced. so far the two that I have been finding domed on top are the two i show in my youtube video. I haven't found any other bad ones yet but its good to look them all over. you dont need to test them all. just give them a look over. also caps have to go in the same way they come out with the line to the same side. If not they will blow up.

With what you are saying I am thinking your having a voltage issue thats why i said to start with the power supply. I could be wrong, but thats were i would start. check those two caps.

Bryancito

· #88 · Jun 17, 2011

Thanks mate, I agree with you and I am crossing fingers that the Caps on the PSU and sloly dying and havent messed up my other boards, or they are getting unsoldered. Anyways, I will update you when I have news.

cheers!

Bryancito

· #89 · Jun 20, 2011

3

Hi Guys,

Well I have found the issue I think. It seems to be the caps on the PSU. They seem slowwen or popped on the top. This is only on the two big one's and the middle size on the side of these looks ok.

Funny enough that the problem is rare but hopefully this has not damaged toerh boards since they all look in excellent condition. The funny think is that when the problem occurs... which is rare, a quick flash on the top half of white lines or dots appear (dont remember which of the two) and then goes into protected mode.

Hopefully is it onlt these 2 caps on the PSU which is causing the top SDR board to fail due to incorrect voltage and has not messed it up.

I will keep updated about this matter and my advancements.

Can anyone confirm if these caps are bad... I think they are...

Cheers.

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Jason1976

Discussion Starter · #90 · Jun 20, 2011 (Edited)

Bryancito said:
Hi Guys,

Well I have found the issue I think. It seems to be the caps on the PSU. They seem slowwen or popped on the top. This is only on the two big one's and the middle size on the side of these looks ok.

Funny enough that the problem is rare but hopefully this has not damaged toerh boards since they all look in excellent condition. The funny think is that when the problem occurs... which is rare, a quick flash on the top half of white lines or dots appear (dont remember which of the two) and then goes into protected mode.

Hopefully is it onlt these 2 caps on the PSU which is causing the top SDR board to fail due to incorrect voltage and has not messed it up.

I will keep updated about this matter and my advancements.

Can anyone confirm if these caps are bad... I think they are...

Cheers.

Yes those are the caps we have been talking about. They go bad and burn out chips on the sdr boards. maybe you got lucky and cought it before it burned them out. It's not that rare of an issue if you check the internet. Lots of people on fixya with the same issue and all. It's best to replace both at once if your going to replace them. They run in parallel.

Enough of these tv's had this issue that Hitachi came out with a service bulletin to let repair shops know what to check. The service bulletin told repair shops to replace the power supply, ysus and any bad sdr boards all at the same time, But I had good luck just replacing the two caps in the power supply and had no issues with the ysus. and if your sdr boards are still fine then your lucky.

Bryancito

· #91 · Jun 20, 2011

Hi,

Thanks for the feedback. Well I am still using the tele and still workin ok only with those minor hickups that it goes in protected mode. But only happens once the most 2 in continious series.

Hope the universe listens to you and wishes me the same luck that it is only the bloody caps and nothin else got damaged. All the SDR and Y-Sus boards look extremely well with nothing at all to doubt. So I am going to look for asap the caps in Mexico. replace them and provide feedback.

Cheers.

Jason1976

Discussion Starter · #92 · Jun 20, 2011

Bryancito said:
Hi,

Thanks for the feedback. Well I am still using the tele and still workin ok only with those minor hickups that it goes in protected mode. But only happens once the most 2 in continious series.

Hope the universe listens to you and wishes me the same luck that it is only the bloody caps and nothin else got damaged. All the SDR and Y-Sus boards look extremely well with nothing at all to doubt. So I am going to look for asap the caps in Mexico. replace them and provide feedback.

Cheers.

I dont think its good to keep using it until you replace those caps. It may burn your sdr chips out.

ajshoe

· #93 · Nov 21, 2011

Has anybody ever checked the other two large caps ? 330uf 450v on mine checked bad (ESR was out of tolerance). I'm replacing those also. thanks

lcaillo

· #94 · Nov 22, 2011

When you say ESR is out of tolerance, what does that mean? What device did you use to measure it and what was the value?

ajshoe

· #95 · Nov 22, 2011

B + K ESR Meter (equilavalent series resistance). This instrument can measure capacitors in place. The two 330uf 450V gave high readings - 0.4 - they should have read 0.1 - .2. Didn't have any new ones - going to get 2 new ones tomorrow. The 3300uf 100V read about .5 on one and .8 on the other (they both were puffy). These should have been 0.1
This instrument is very helpful on repairing old electronics - to say the least. I have mine hooked to 120v xformer - use it quite often.

Your can buy these meters on EBAY - fairly reasonable.

KYBOSH

· #96 · Nov 22, 2011

ajshoe said:
B + K ESR Meter (equilavalent series resistance). This instrument can measure capacitors in place. The two 330uf 450V gave high readings - 0.4 - they should have read 0.1 - .2. Didn't have any new ones - going to get 2 new ones tomorrow. The 3300uf 100V read about .5 on one and .8 on the other (they both were puffy). These should have been 0.1
This instrument is very helpful on repairing old electronics - to say the least. I have mine hooked to 120v xformer - use it quite often.

Your can buy these meters on EBAY - fairly reasonable.

Just out of curiosity, did you measure those caps while they were still on the board or had you pulled them out?

ajshoe

· #97 · Nov 23, 2011

checked them in board. since they were marginally out of tolerance, I pulled them and tested the same, I put them back in (couldn't find any locally) and PU. no picture. I did order some new 330uf 450V caps. My SDR boards test bad - have 4 chips on both boards (caps test 10-13 ohms) bad. Ordered 2 new boards today. Do u know where I can purchase the individual chips ? I going to try to solder new ones on the old boards as a test.

lcaillo

· #98 · Nov 23, 2011

ajshoe said:
B + K ESR Meter (equilavalent series resistance). This instrument can measure capacitors in place. The two 330uf 450V gave high readings - 0.4 - they should have read 0.1 - .2. Didn't have any new ones - going to get 2 new ones tomorrow. The 3300uf 100V read about .5 on one and .8 on the other (they both were puffy). These should have been 0.1
This instrument is very helpful on repairing old electronics - to say the least. I have mine hooked to 120v xformer - use it quite often.

Your can buy these meters on EBAY - fairly reasonable.

The difference between .4 and .2 is likely not creating a problem and is very hard to measure realiably. A little oxidaion or contact deficiency can account for that kind of difference easily, as can the difference between meters and how they measure ESR.

ESR measures in circuit can be fine, but if there is any lower impedance path in parallel with the cap, you won't identify a high ESR.

ajshoe

· #99 · Nov 23, 2011 (Edited)

agree with u 100% - thats why I re-installed them and PU. pic is still not there - comes up about 1 second longer. My readings on the small ceramic caps on the sdr boards is about 2.2K on 2 of the chips and 5 ohms on 6 of the chips. getting the exact same thing on the other SDR caps! Reading somewhere else that these readings should be 500-800 ohms and bad ones are shorted ? thanks, John

mmraceca

· #100 · Feb 10, 2012

I have the same 50", and had the 3 blink problem. With all of your help i found the spot burnt on the sdr-d board and ordered the 2 replacement cap and replaced the domed ones and ordered a replacement sdr-d board off ebay. The bad news is after the plug up and try, now it doesn't even come on, and now blinks 5 blue lights repeatly. Tell me what to try next please, Justin

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