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Discussion Starter #1
A year ago I painted RS-MaxxMudd Retro v.2.1 and my results were "just OK". Too much orange peel and the screen is too sparkley and the whites are washed out.

I blaim the orange peel on the gun. I used a Wagner Flexio 890 and I just couldn't get a smooth surface despite my best efforts. I just ordered an Earlex and a 1mm needle to solve that problem.

I think the screen is too shiney becuase I have absolutely no ambient light coming into my cave/basement... none. My ceiling and my front wall (screeen wall) are dark grey. All walls are dark. I have black cloth accoustic pannels up all around my room. It's DARK.

I was wondering if anyone would be kind enough to offer advice on a better solution. I'm obviously new to this forum but I've spent a lot of time over at AVS. It seems like the folks over here prefer to use a simpler method (grab a certain off the shelf paint and go to town) and that intrigues me. I like simple!

BTW I have a Sony HW40es ceiling mounted, throw is about 14-15' from screen
Thanks!
 

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You didn't mention the screen size. But off the top of my head I'd go with a OTS neutral gray in the N9 category.

And I won't even get started on the multitude of reasons why you should never use one of Roland's (MMan) concoctions from AVS. I've reviewed a couple versions of silver fire here but they seem to keep changing the formula every time I do a review.
 

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Awesome! Thanks Mechman. So is there an OTS you can recommend? Also, for whatever I buy does AAA need to be added? I'm still working to find out more about BW, is that still a recommended solution nowadays? Thanks!
 

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Whoops sorry, I meant to include the screen size in my last response: 120".

285 hours on the lamp.

I'm not sure how to answer the calibration question. That's new to me.

Thanks!
 

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Hello.

120? Then, i believe Mech's suggestion about N9 base is the right one.:)

Calibration is the proccess in order to achieve maximum color and image fidelity according to certain standards. Usually most of the units out of the box are ok nowdays. It is also known that most of the units after calibration lose an amount of light (usually 15-25%). That's why i asked you about.
 
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