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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This thread has been closed. The thread op choses to not participate on this site any longer and the thread has been abandoned. Since the developer of this app is no longer supporting his threads here and the tints and information tends to change regularly we can not keep track of the changes and verify the validity of this thread.

Recent testing of this application using a spectrophotometer has shown serious color shifting! This is not a recommended solution for adding gain or 'pop'. - mech


Preface

This thread is meant to be a replacement for the “Clear Coat Experiments” thread. I have decided to scale the experiments back to some very basic trials utilizing some of the more readily available pearl and metallic products. I no longer have access to gain measurements so the meticulous preparation of sample cards for color and gain analysis is no longer a worth while exercise.

The plan now is to prepare 2’x4’ sample panels to answer some basic questions. The goal being to identify the best choices for base coat and pearl clear coats.

Here are the basic questions I have in mind:
  1. Does the base layer sheen affect the overall performance?
  2. Do the Pearlizing Mediums provide an adequate amount of mica?
  3. Do the pearlizing mediums add the gain without any color shifting?
  4. Is there any significant difference between the Folkart and Decoart, pearlizing mediums?
  5. The Winsor & Newton Iridescent Medium contains silver metallic flakes; therefore what difference do they make over the typical pearl flakes?
  6. If the silver metallic flakes primarily add on axis gain, can we tailor that by adding some pearl flakes to the silver metallic flakes?
  7. Would a multi-layer approach with a layer of high gain silver flakes between the base gray and Pearl Clear Coat provide a more efficient screen with a reasonable viewing cone?
  8. We know we can lighten the overall shade of gray by using a white pearl; can we darken the overall shade by using Delta Silver Metallic?
  9. Can we apply a Delta Silver Metallic over a white substrate and get a uniform surface and also deepen the black levels?
  10. Assuming the Delta SM Clear Coat over white base is practical; can it be applied to a stretched BOC screen easily?



History

I do not claim to have made any great discovery with respect to the use of pearl and/or metallic flakes in DIY screen paints. This was introduced several years ago by other people. In many mixes Silver Metallic is the primary source of metallic flakes. It is also the colorant that produces a shade of gray. Having learned this by performing experiments with an established metallic mixes, I was impressed with the balancing act the developer had to perform in order to achieve a suitable concentration of flakes while achieving a reasonable shade of gray.

Further consideration of this balancing lead me to wonder if there was a way to separate the flake concentration from the colorant concentration. That led to me investigating the concentration and nature of the flakes in the common pearl paints. Some basic investigation resulted in identifying that both Folkart Metallic White Pearl and Decoart Dazzling White Pearl had similar concentrations of pearl/metallic flakes to the Delta Silver Metallic.

Wanting to keep any mixing instructions simple and easy I tried mixing one and two bottles of the Folkart Metallic White Pearl with a quart of Behr Matte Polyurethane. I successfully produced sample panels of each and had sample cards analyzed. Each bottle of pearl is 2oz. The ratio is then 2:32 == 1 part Pearl + 16 parts Matte Poly, and 4:32 == 1 part Pearl + 8 parts Matte Poly. I then designated these 1xPearl and 2xPearl. I prepared sample using a near neutral gray base and sent them for gain analysis:

Bellow are successive sample panel comparisons to demonstrate visually how the on axis gain varies with the different concentrations of pearl flakes.

Click images to enlarge.

Matte Poly < > 1xPearl


Matte Poly < > 2xPearl


1xPearl < > 2xPearl

I also wondered what effect it would have to apply a
pearl clear coat over an existing Easy-Flex screen:


Matte Poly < > 2xPearl applied over Easy-Flex

The addition of one coat of 2xPearl over an existing matte poly clear coat
does not produce the same gain boost but it does provide a visible improvement.


2xPearl applied over Easy-Flex < > 2xPearl

In the last image you can see that the single coat of 2xPearl over the Easy-Flex does not produce the same gain as the double coat of 2xPearl over a flat gray. That is due to the fact that each coat adds more flakes so the concentration of flakes is lower over the Easy-Flex. It would be possible to apply a second coat but that would mean a total of 4 coats of poly over the flat gray. The concern becomes color shifting due to the ever so slight amber color to the poly. With the pearl flakes in the poly this is not as much of a concern but I would not apply any more coats than that. The recommended upgrade to an existing Easy-Flex would be a fresh coat or two of the base gray and then 2 coats of a pearl clear coat.

As I indicated before, the use of clear coats and adding pearl and/or metallic flakes is not my discovery. I only set out to perform an orderly set of investigative trials and document the results.


Introduction

The Easy-Flex DIY Screen Solution is comprised of a base coat and a clear coat. I have tried adding pearl paint to the clear coat. This resulted in some reasonable gain boosting without any severe narrowing of the viewing cone.

One of the self imposed limits I have when selecting ingredients for a DIY screen paint is that they must be readily available from typical retailers such as Home Depot and Michaels Arts & Crafts stores.

I have done some preliminary experimenting with the available products and narrowed the list to be worked with down to the following:

  • Folkart Metallic White Pearl
  • Folkart Pearlizing Medium
  • Decoart White Pearl
  • Decoart Pearlizing Medium
  • Delta Silver Metallic
  • Delta Pearlizing Medium?
    [Winsor & Newton Iridescent Medium


The Plan

The first thing I want to do is determine what difference if any the base coat has on the overall performance. Not so much the lightness of gray but rather the gain and viewing cone. I have prepared a preliminary pair of sample panels to give this a try but I am not happy with the preparation. One panel received 2 coats of 2xPearl (I think it was) that I had left over from painting DR.Doom’s screen. This was on a base coat of the Behr Primer #436. It resulted in a very bright but vertically uniform gain boost. I then prepared a sample panel with the flat UPW #1050 base and 2 coats of the remaining pearl clear coat from the same can. Being the end of the can and the possibility of there being a higher concentration of pearl I’m not sure the comparison will be valid. Therefore I feel it will be necessary to prepare two new panels and a fresh batch of a pearl clear coat to apply to each at the same time.

The next part of the trials will be simple comparisons between similar products from Folkart, Decoart, and possibly Delta. I will also do some comparisons between a 1xPearl and a 2xPearl. For easy of application and therefore a better chance of success it might be advisable to apply 3 or 4 coats with a lower concentration of pearl flakes. The Behr matte Polyurethane could be supplemented with initial clear coats using the Faux Glaze. It is less expensive and seems to be slightly clearer than the polyurethane.

I found myself drawn to the Winsor & Newton Iridescent Medium due to its silvery flakes. I did prepare a couple of cards with this in a clear coat. It appears to add a lot of on axis gain. I think on it’s own in a clear coat this would severely limit the viewing angle and more than likely would cause hot or warm spotting. I have been wondering what would result if I were to have a layer of these silver metallic flake sandwiched between the gray base layer and the pearl clear coat. I will try that on the sample cards I have already been playing with and if it looks promising I will try it on a larger sample panel.

In addition to clear pearlizing mediums and white pearls I have gone back to the Delta Silver Metallic as a possible top coat ingredient. I did try applying a 1xSM on a white base and it does seem to have some promise. The real question is more about application. Can this be applied over a large area and produce a uniform color to the screen. If it is possible then this could be a neat upgrade to a white screen or possibly a stretched BOC screen.

So that’s the new plan. It is going to be fluid and we will go in any direction that shows some promise. I have no doubt that the pearlizing mediums will provide the best source of pearl flakes without changing the color. The white pearls and possible the Delta Silver Metallic could be used to deliberately lighten or darken the color of the screen.

I need to scrape a few buck together and pickup some more supplies but thing should get started this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Here is a preliminary look at pearl clear coats and different base paint sheens.

First we have the UPW Flat Latex #1050 \ Pearl?
on the left and the Primer #436 \ Pearl? on the right.



Note the P436\Pearl? is brighter on axis and the UPW #1050\Pearl? is brighter at about 45 degrees off axis. It is likely due to the base coat but I need to duplicate this experiment and control things better. The base coats will obviously be applied separately but the top coat should be clearly known and applied to both panels from the same batch of Pearl Clear Coat at the same time.


I pulled out a sample panel of EasyFlex-06 with a 2xPearl (Folkart) clear coat. It too is not as bright on axis and looks better off axis than the P436.





I used "Pearl?" to designate a pear clear coat on the P436 because I am not really sure what concentration or even if it is just Folkart pearl. It may even be that I threw in some Decoart pearl instead.

So while these are crude preliminary trials, it should be pretty obvious that various combinations will result in different gains and viewing cone characteristics. Personally I would sacrifice gain for a reasonable performance at off axis angles of around 30 to 45 degrees, but when we are done we may be able to provide several possible combinations to suite the individual desires and setup requirements. I would also sacrifice gain to ensure hot spotting is unlikely. The pearl does seem to offer the opportunity to add some "POP" without adversely effecting the performance. We just need to get a handle on what pearl and how much.

So this just a little teaser for now.
It certainly has me curious about things again!

I'm off to Home depot for some more Behr Matte Polyurethane and a few more sample panels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just a little update

I picked up some Behr Matte Polyurethane #780, and some 2'x4' white board panels at lunch today.

The first thing is to determine what if any effect the base layer has on the gain and viewing cone. I will therefore make up 3 panels; an Exterior Primer #436, a UPW Flat Enamel #1850, and UPW Flat Latex #1050. Each will get 3 coats with 10% Floetrol and 10% water. I will also use the two roller techniques for application of the base coat. This is all to make the smoothest possible base layer.

Rather than chose one of the Pearlizing Mediums I will use both to makeup the trial clear coat. So that will be one 2oz. bottle each of Folkart and Decoart Pearlizing Mediums to one quart of Behr Matte Polyurethane #780. This preparation will take me at least four days. The earliest we will be able to try them out will be next Monday evening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This preparation will take me at least four days. The earliest we will be able to try them out will be next Monday evening.
I realized on the way home tonight that I already should have a Flat Enamel #1850 panel and a Primer #436 panel that are already painted that I can use. Therefore I only need to make up a UPW Flat #1050 panel tonight and then tomorrow I can apply the two coats of Pearl. That means Saturday night I should be able to do the comparison.
 

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This should prove to be an interesting experiment. I have found that the silver flakes provide no gain whatsoever. It is the glossy medium that the flakes are suspended in that provide the gain. That is only one man's observations. I theorize that you can't get that many reflective little silver flakes to reflect more light back than they absorb becuase of their colour. You add more flake, you get a darker gray, lower gain. Not enough specular gain from those little babies.

Pearl flakes, on the other hand, do not create a "darker" colour and thusly, can make like a bunch of little mirrors in the base. However, the base must be clear enough to allow that to happen. Mix in some TiO2 or any other material that damps out the specularity of the pearl flakes and you really don't get much gain.

I have stated this in the past also...the pearl mediums and paints that you are using provide most of their gain thru gloss and not the flakes. Yes, the flakes play a part in the reflectiveness of the medium, but the gloss base is much more powerful.

Can't wait to see what you conclude tiddler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This should prove to be an interesting experiment. I have found that the silver flakes provide no gain whatsoever. It is the glossy medium that the flakes are suspended in that provide the gain.
I tried applying a 2.5oz. per quart concentration of Winsor & Newton Iridescent Medium in Behr Matte Poly #780 over a white base and a gray base on sample cards. There is a very high gain on axis. Off axis I would agree the flakes actually seem to darken the surface color. It is my hope that by applying two coats of the same but mixed in the Faux Glaze there will be a more random orientation of the silver flakes. This will then two coats of a Pearl Clear Coat. I'm not actually that hopeful though. I suspect it will simply produce a greater on axis gain at the expense of viewing cone.

There is one positive though. I do believe that it may be advantageous to be able to apply bot than two coats of Pearl Clear Coat. The lower the concentration of pearl the easier it will be to apply. It will be less expensive and easier to apply a couple of lower concentration clear coats using Faux Glaze and then a couple of lower concentration pearl clear coats using the matte poly. Maybe!? :nerd:
 

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Is the Winsor & Newton Iridescent Medium a silver flake or pearl flake? I am assuming from the name that it is a pearl flake medium. What do you think is causing the gain? The flakes or the medium base?

As for the number of coats for the pearl topcoat, let's just say I have more than 5 on my current screen.:bigsmile:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Is the Winsor & Newton Iridescent Medium a silver flake or pearl flake? I am assuming from the name that it is a pearl flake medium. What do you think is causing the gain? The flakes or the medium base?

As for the number of coats for the pearl topcoat, let's just say I have more than 5 on my current screen.:bigsmile:
They are silver like tiny mirrors. You can see them clearly in this photo and video clip:


The medium is only 2.5oz. in a quart of matte polyurethane, so I would say there is nor gloss and the gain is all the flakes laying flat against the surface.
 

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Todd,

Just to verify, this is all rolling, correct? Also, in the photos above in post 1, it appears that the topcoats brighten the image while dulling the contrast. Is that what you see? The darks look darker in the non-topcoated. Might want to do some trials with varying degrees of ambient light... just pondering.:daydream:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I am only rolling.

The Pearl Clear Coat used in the photos in post #1 was a white pearl mixed in matte poly so there was a small amount of white pigment present. That would lighten the overal shade of gray slightly. I do not recall seeing any real difference in the black bars and I'm not seeing it with the photos on at 3 different monitors. I'm not saying it isn't there , I am just not seeing it. I will pay closer attention as we do these trials though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The first trial panels have been clear coated and now can dry until after the boss goes to bed tonight.

Panel #1
Base Layer: Behr UPW Flat Latex #1050 (0/6/0LB+0/3/0YO)
Top Coat: 2oz. each of Decoart & Folkart Pearlizing Medium / Quart Behr Poly #780​


Panel #2
Base Layer: Behr UPW Flat Latex #1050 (0/6/0LB+0/3/0YO)
2nd Layer: 4oz. Silver Metallic Flake medium / Quart Behr Faux Glaze
Top Coat: 2oz. each of Decoart & Folkart Pearlizing Medium / Quart Behr Poly #780​


Panel #3
Base Layer: Behr UPW Flat Enamel #1850 (0/6/0LB+0/3/0YO)
Clear Coat: 2oz. each of Decoart & Folkart Pearlizing Medium / Quart Behr Poly #780​


Panel #4
Base Layer: Behr Exterior Primer #436 (0/5/0LB+0/2/0YO ~match)
Clear Coat: 2oz. each of Decoart & Folkart Pearlizing Medium / Quart Behr Poly #780​

Tonight we will see what difference the base layer makes and also see what effect the intermediate silver flake layer has on gain and viewing cone.

The Fauz Glaze it very nice to apply. It also remains workable for quite a while so down rolling it with the 6" trim roller was no problem. I like to apply paint with the white fuzzy roller because you can get it on the screen and spread out quickly. Then I smooth out the current strip and back to the previous one, followed by down rolling. Both the glaze and the poly will level out quite well so any texture will be from the underlying base coat.

Next up will be two panels with the exact same base layer. One will have 2 coats of 2xPearl (Folkart) and the other will have 2 coats of 2xPearl (Decoart). This is to see what difference there is between the two products. I will speculate the Decoart will have a bit more gain and a slightly reduced viewing cone compared to te Folkart sample.

Now we watch the paint dry. :daydream::waiting::dunno::scratchhead::sleep:
 

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Also, in the photos above in post 1, it appears that the topcoats brighten the image while dulling the contrast. Is that what you see? The darks look darker in the non-topcoated. Might want to do some trials with varying degrees of ambient light... just pondering.:daydream:
The darks are darker in a non topcoated screen. A pearl top coated base coat will have gain. Therefore, raising white level and also raising black level. Off axis would be even worse because white levels are now lowered.

I like topcoats for their "3D effect" and nice colour saturation. But there are always tradeoffs. And that would be higher black levels.

What I suspect is that the lack of "gray" in the topcoat does this. I am currently experimenting with a small amount of "gray" in the topcoat in the hopes to maintain black while increasing white. Sounds contradictory, but we'll see how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I just noticed that Sample #3 has visible roller tracks. I can't tell if they are in the Faux Glaze layer or the poly top coat. When I hold it up to the light I can't see them. If this does prove to be a worthwhile multi-layer solution I will have to work out the application issues.

All the other sample panels look good and uniform. That would suggest it is in the faux glaze layer but it's hard to tell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The Pearl Clear Coat trials begin:

We will start with some camera flash photos. This will give an indication of the tendency to hot spot.


Lets start with a simple matte UPW #1850 panel:

There is no apparent warm spot. The shade seems pretty uniform top to bottom.


Now we will see what a flat gray with a polyurethane only clear coat looks like:

Again the brightness is fairly uniform from top to bottom.


Now we will look at what the camera flash does to a flat UPW #1050 with a 2xPearl clear coat:

The flash spot is quite evident in this photo. It is also evident that I managed to get some streaks in the pearl clear coat.


This is the Flat Enamel \ 2xPearl Clear Coat Sample:

There definitely appears to be a warm spot in this sample.


The Behr Exterior Primer #436 \ 2xPearl Clear Coat:

This sample too appears to be producing a warm spot.

Behr UPW #1050 \ Silver Glaze \ 2xPearl Clear Coat:

Again there is a warm spot and the streaks are quite bad in this sample.


Setup Info:

The camera was in auto mode. I used a tripod. The camera was approximately 8 feet away from the screen. I'm not sure if the camera should be this close or if it should have been closer to the projector. I will repeat these photos with the camera near the projector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I repeated the camera flash tests and also did the projected white light tests

Here is the Behr UPW Flat Enamel #1850:
12ft Camera Flash <==> White Light

As expected there is no sign of hot spotting.

Flat Gray Latex \ B780 Clear Coat:
12ft Camera Flash <==> White Light

Again no sign of hot spotting.

Behr UPW Flat Latex #1050 \ 2xPearl Clear Coat
12ft Camera Flash <==> White Light

There appears to be a tendency to warm spot.

Behr UPW Flat Enamel #1850 \ 2xPearl Clear Coat:
12ft Camera Flash <==> White Light

While there is some tendency to hot spot the #1850\2xPearl seems to be slightly less likely to hot spot than the #1050\2xPearl.

Behr Exterior Primer #436 \ 2xPearl Clear Coat:
12ft Camera Flash <==> White Light

There does not seem to be anymore tendancy to hot spot than the #150 \ 2xPearl.

Behr UPW #1050 \ Silver Glaze \ 2xPearl
12ft Camera Flash <==> White Light

The streaks are quite evident, however the tendency to hot spot seems to have remained constant for all the 2xPearl Clear Coated samples..
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Just a quick comment at this point:

I keep thinking I was too greedy. I should have only tried 1xPearl. It would be better to lower the Pearl per coat and apply more coats. I still think the Faux Glaze is a good choice for the intermediate layers. It is thicker and dries very clear. The additional matte poly top coats eliminate any sheen issues from the glaze.

As benven pointed out the mediums have quite a bit of gloss. Reducing the amount added to the poly will reduce the surface sheen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ambient Light Tolerance

Mechman observed that the Pearl Clea Coats seemed to not only brighten the whites but also lighten the blacks. This of course is not a desirable effect. I had not observed this in the photos nor did I recall noticing it when doing previous trials. In order to make the lightening of blacks more noticeable I took the following photos with as much ambient light as I could turn on.

First lets see what the Flat Enamel #1850(matte) UPW
and the UPW #1050 with a poly clear coat do in these high ambient light conditions:

Both samples seem to be very similar to my retractable screen.


Now lets see what happens to the blacks when there is a 2xPearl clear coat:

The blacks definitely are suffering in these high ambient light conditions.


Then there is the UPW #1050 \ Silver Glaze \ 2xPearl sample:

As expected the blacks on this sample also suffer in high ambient light conditions.


So as Benven pointed out everything is a compromise. Increased gain will cost you some ambient light performance, if that ambient light is coming from the projector end of the room.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Off Axis Performance

Another compromise when boosting on axis gain is that off axis gain will usually be reduced. This of course is what is meant when people talk about the viewing cone being reduced. As a general rule I look for a poly clear coated sample to match performance with a matte sample at about 45 degrees. This is only a crude measurement but all we really have for the moment. In the case of a pearl clear coated sample I would hope it too would match performance with the matte screen at about 45 degrees. That is probably a bit optimistic. Past gain curve measurements showed that the poly clear coated samples crossed over the matte samples at around 30 degrees.

Here are photos taken from approximately 45 degrees off axis:

Here are our reference matte gray and poly clear coated gray samples:

As I expected the off axis gain of these two samples is very similar to my retractable screen.


Now lets see how well the Pearl Clear Coated samples perform off axis:

As one might expect they are not quite as bright as the retractable screen surface. Not too bad though.


Finally our 4 layer Silver Glaze & Pearl Clear Coat sample:

It appears to be similar to the other Pearl Clear Coated samples.


The concern with narrowing the viewing cone is most significant if the the variation in brightness is apparent when sitting within the expected audience area. In other words if you are sitting in one of your desired viewing locations that is at the extreme of the viewing angle in your setup, will you see a variation in brightness from the nearest side of the screen to the farthest. This is the real concern, not what the image looks like to someone way off to the side in the next room looking in through a side door way.

I cannot say at this time if that is an issue or not. I have been trying to think of a method to look at this without making up an entire screen. I think if I take a photo of the screen with white light on it and place a sample panel at the 4 locations across the screen, then it may be possible to determine. I would have to make sure the brightness of the background screen remained constant over the 4 photos. Then you could compare the 4 photos to see if the brightness of the sample varied from position to position. I'll have to give this a try. Not being any great photographer I would be inclined to adjust the brightness in Photoshop to get the backgrounds to match.

In the meantime I have started to prepare the next samples. It is two identical base coat samples. One will get 2xPearl-Folkart 2 coats, and the other will get xPearl-Decoart 2 coats. I am pretty sure already from applying the Decoart pearl clear coat that it is more silvery looking than the Folkart.

The trial to follow that will be a matte white reference compared to the same matte white base coat with 2 coats of 1xSilver (Delta Silver Metallic). This is to determine if we could apply such a silver (gray) clear coat to a white base and increase the black level performance and maintain the whites or even boost them. The really test will be to see if I can apply this uniformly.
 

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Great work tiddler!

I have often wondered why certain other very famous paint mixes are so popular. One look at this thread would really open up some eyes. Those craft store paints add nothing but gloss. And for those famous mixes that are predominantly craft store paints, they do hotspot, have poor off axis performance, and have poor colour balance. Hopefully, I don't get raked over th coals like I would in another popular forum where those very famous paint mixes rule the roost.

This is why I have been advocating the use of metallic powders instead of metallic paints. You can control the amount of gray or pearl in amix and try to maintian a reasonable balance of gain, cone, and colour. Can't do that with craft paints.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Those craft store paints add nothing but gloss.

This is why I have been advocating the use of metallic powders instead of metallic paints. You can control the amount of gray or pearl in amix and try to maintain a reasonable balance of gain, cone, and colour. Can't do that with craft paints.
I don't think I would jump to that conclusion already. I would imagine that the pearlizing medium alone does have a gloss when dry. Keep in mind though I am only adding 2 or 4oz. od the medium to 32oz. of Behr Matte Poly. Yes it will add some sheen to the poly but the gain I am seeing appears to be more a result of the metallic or pearl flakes. If it wer sheen alone then there would be terrible hot spotting from the projected light the way the Behr Eggshell hot spotted.

You may be looking at the first set of photos where the camera flash was used too close (8ft) to the samples. Once I moved the camera back closer to the projector position things looked much more reasonable.

Using the projector we don't see the hot spotting problem:

Curiously it is the primer that seems to be not only the brightest but also to have the most uniform brightness top to bottom. I was expecting it to be the worst of the three for base paints for this warm spotting behavior.


With the camera flash close to the projector position the hot spotting is not predominant either:



Using the camera flash about 8 feet from the panels does cause a noticable hot spot but I don't think it is realistic:



At the moment my suspicion is that the Decoart has flakes that are more silvery than pearly. That is probably where the hot spotting is coming from. The next samples that will compare the Folkart Pearlizing Medium to the Decoart Pearlizing Medium in 2xPearl Clear Coats will tell a lot about the type of flakes. Again will also say that if I were pressed to produce screen of this type right now, I would opt for only a 1xPearl and more coats utilizing the Faux Glaze for the first two clear coats and the matte poly for the final two clear coats. Another approach using the same ingredients would be to mix 2oz. of Folkart Pearlizing Medium, 2oz. of Decoart Pearlizing Medium, a quart of Faux Glaze, and half a quart of the matte poly. This would then be applied as three coats of 1.5xPearl Clear Coat. The remaining pure matte poly would be appled as a top coat to kill any gloss. Hmmm . . . that sounds like a reasonable plan. But lets see what the difference between the two pearlizing medium is before we jump to any conclusions.

I do however agree that for the best results one would use high quality ingredients and keep them separate. By using craft store pearlizing medium you get both flakes and clear medium in the bottle. If the medium adds gloss then you are limited as to how much pearl flake you can add. By using pearl powders you first of all can chose the flake size and secondly you have total control over the concentration of flakes without effecting the gloss or other characteristics.

I am hopeful that once you feel more comfortable posting here you will present some of your work to the members here. I am trying to cover the Average Joe, pickup some stuff on the way home and make a screen over the weekend demographic. I think this represents a large number of people new to the idea of making a front projection screen. Like me many people find themselves with a projector and when they started to look into a suitable screen the price of the project suddenly doubles. My goal is to find a few solutions for them, that will tied them over until they are prepared to either buy a good screen, implement a laminate screen, or try a more advanced mix like the solutions that you have explored. I know there are many here that would be interested in your work and also in any knowledge you are willing to pass on regarding spray painting.
 
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