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Pednault's Place Theater Build

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51K views 167 replies 15 participants last post by  Todd Anderson  
#1 · (Edited)
Let me catch you all up to speed with my build. I've been stock piling materials for several weeks now and am slowly making progress on the framing.

My first theater design was in 2009 for a new home I had designed (architect by trade), but we didn't build it. Fast forward 3 years, bought a newly constructed home in January of 2012 and put in a couple of provisions for my dedicated theater during the build. My dad builds homes for a living (and built mine), so I got the chance to add some dedicated electrical outlets and coax to the closet under the central stairs which will be my future AV/Media closet.

Pay no attention to the color scheme as I haven't decided on ANY of the colors yet.


Xray view facing the screen:


I'm moving this water pressure tank next weekend so that it's out of the theater:


Framed the entry door:


I'm using 2x4's spaced at 24" on center and will be using one layer of 5/8" drywall for the walls and soffits (more on this later). I'll be using a million and a half tubes of acoustic sealant anywhere I can. I built the wall parallel to the existing stairwell wall and held it off by 1". And also built the return wall which creates the storage space behind the back of the HT. I'll be picking away at the other two walls over the course of this week. I plan on holding the walls along the concrete foundation walls by at least 2" to allow for the water inlet pipe run back to the storage room. I'll be wrapping the new pipe in insulation so that it doesn't create noise within the wall.

The finished room dimensions will be approximately 12'-2" x 19'-8" x 7'-3" before acoustic treatments. I've fully decoupled the walls using the room within a room concept. The only attachment points to the pre-existing structure will be at the sill plate that rests on foam sill sealer and the tops of the walls which will be held utilizing RSIC-DC04's fastening thru the existing drywall into the floor trusses. The existing ceiling is 5/8" drywall with engineered floor trusses with the cavities filled with R19 fiberglass batts. Since I'm building a "fish-tank" I'm hoping I can watch movies and play my video games while my wife and son sleep two stories up. We'll find out since, once I get the first layer of drywall up in the room, I'm going to do some serious, full range, high SPL testing. If I find that my methods are not sufficient I will add another layer of 5/8" drywall with Green Glue between the staggered layers. If that still doesn't function, I'll just have to adjust the maximum volume setting on my Onkyo! :heehee:

I'm new to posting here but have been an avid reader/researcher of both this forum and AVS. So I'm familiar with the methods used for sound isolation and the like. I haven't set a budget on this build as I will pick away at it as funds allow. So far, I've got a stock pile of all the 2x4's I'll need with only the riser and stage lumber to purchase. I've got seven 3" can lights for the soffits, black Lutron dimmers, black outlets, electrical boxes, wiring, 200' of CL2 speaker wire, PVC electrical conduit which will create a raceway around the soffit for future low voltage runs, RG6 subwoofer cable, a 7.1 HDMI wall plate for the AV closet, High Speed HDMI cable for the PJ, all the R13 insulation I'll need for the walls and soffits and probably a bunch more of miscellaneous items I'm currently forgetting.

Every trip I make to Home Dustpan :rofl: from now on, I pick up at least one 50lb bag of sand since I will need 30 of them to fill my stage. I'm currently at 8. It's less burdensome to lug one or two bags down every couple of days rather than trying to do it all at once. BTW, that's over 1500 pounds of sand...

I've got some 3/4" MDF left over from subwoofer builds (I install car audio as a part time job) which I will use to make backer boxes for outlets/lights and such. I'm going to mount my PJ within a hush box which will have an exhaust fan dumping the hot air into the adjacent storage space and keeping as much of the PJ's noise out of the HT.

I'm framing the soffits in such a way that actually makes them more like roof framing. They will not touch the existing ceiling and will hang from the new wall framing at the perimeter of the HT utilizing Simpson Strong-ties. Therefore, it will be decoupled from the rest of the house. Any penetration into the HT drywall will receive a backer box of MDF and sealed with acoustic sealant. The soffit and the main ceiling cavities will be filled with fiberglass batts as well.

I'm going to build an 8' x 8' riser and push it to the back and one side of the HT. This will allow my in-swing door to fully open 90 degrees and will allow for the most seating. My seating plans are to get a reclining sofa for the front row and I'm still battling my decision for the back row. I've found some real theater seats locally on craigslist, but I'm sure they aren't all that comfortable. But at only $150 for two rows of 4, I may just buy them and see if I can squeeze both rows on my riser 8'x8'... Since the theater will be used by only me 60% of the time and by me, my wife and one son 25% more, with only the remaining 15% being for family gatherings and parties, the sofa will be the money seat while the back row(s) are "filler" seating. I may have just talked myself into buying those seats while typing this! :heehee:

Actual shot of one of the seats I might buy:


If you haven't noticed already, I tend to ramble on and type too much but it's mostly due to me keeping a running list of things I need to do or decide on or even things I need help with.

And before I get bombarded with "what are you doing for HVAC" questions, let me give you a bit more information. I live in Maine. My basement is 8 to 10 degrees cooler (even more so in the winter) than the rest of the house and currently has no heat source besides the earth below and surrounding it. I've got 2" of rigid insulation under the slab and 8" thick concrete walls around the perimeter. We, here in Maine, don't have central forced air, ducted HVAC systems because we don't usually have the need for cooling. When and if we do, we use window AC units to cool our homes. The adjacent room to my theater will be a game room / bar area which has two windows that can easily take a window AC unit if the need arises. As for heat, the adjacent room will get one of the infrared Edenpure fake fireplace heaters and that's it, no heat in the theater other than warm bodies and lighting (my equipment will all be within the AV/Media Closet). If I find that the air is too stale in the HT, I will simply open the door and run a small room fan to circulate the air. When it's just me in the theater most of the time I can't imagine it getting uncomfortable over the course of under 3 hours and if it does I'll figure out a way to manage it then. For now, there is absolutely zero plans for any venting or cooling for my HT. My initial plan was to use two dead vent systems, (one for supply and one for exhaust) and although it would be a royal PITA, I've designed the framing to allow for me to add them in if I need them, only needing to cut away the drywall. Go ahead, you can say it now... "We told ya so". Yeah, yeah.

:hsd:

List of currently owned equipment:
Denon X1100W
Xbox One
Wii
Klipsch Reference RF-62 II (LCR)
Klipsch S-10 (Surrounds)
Dayton B652's (Front heights, for now)
TubaHT (I might build another one later)
Behringer NU1000DSP Sub Amp
Epson 8500UB (traded it for the Panny I won, hopefully no hard feelings from HTS)
DIY 46x108 (117.5" diag.) 2.35:1 AT Screen
 
#32 ·
I guess it depends on if you wanted different sizes. If so, I would go with this one. I can tell you I like how the different sized stars look on mine - and so does the rest of my family.

This might be a good point to get your family excited about the room - ask them which they like. Also, the panels are super easy to do - I had my 12 and 9 year old help me build mine.

I still remember the first time I took them in after the panels were up and working - it was one of the handful of times where my whole family was really giddy about the room.
 
#34 ·
I'm definitely thinking about doing a couple of "constellations"! My 3yo son has one of those "Moon In My Room" moons and I got to thinking that I could get one and modify it a little bit and use that too!

I stopped by Lowe's on my way home tonight to grab a couple more pieces of lumber and they had bags of sand outside on pallets with a clearance sign on them. Normally priced at $3.69 a piece and were marked down to $2.48. I didn't want the ones outside since they were all wet (not damp, but fully saturated). 4 full pallets of wet sand... So I went inside to see if they had any that were dry and they only had the other brand, and regularly priced. I asked the manager if he would honor the clearance price since I wanted dry sand and he did! So I grabbed 10 more bags and will swing by on my way home tomorrow to get the rest of the bags I'll need for my stage. I like finding deals!

Since I work at an architecture firm as a Project Manager I was able to order a bunch of carpet and fabric samples today which should arrive soon. I'm getting the entire GoM FR701 collection, a bunch of different carpet samples and some other odds and ends to check out. Helps when you're in the profession. I was able to tile my entire upstairs half-bath with "samples" I had coworkers and other friends in the industry order for me!

As my dad always said growing up, "It's not what ya know, its who ya know!"
 
#35 · (Edited)
Picked up the theater seats yesterday and I brought home my GoM FR701 samples to pick out colors.


Pardon the mess!







I forgot to take a pic of the carpet but it's the one pictured below which has blue tones in it and the field color is called black but actually has dark blue/purple in it. My plan is to carpet the floor with this and a cheaper solid black for the riser and stage to save on cost.

Image


I've also got about 60% of the soffits built.


Looking up from the HT door.


Along the left side of the HT.


From second row (knealing).

Next up is to finish the soffit framing, build backer boxes for the electrical boxes and lights, install the conduit to the PJ and to the stage and then I can insulate!
 
#36 ·
Looking forward to seeing the final ceiling. The shallow soffits look cool, a little different than the typical standard framed ones. So they're decoupled from the ceiling, and attached directly to the joists with the strong ties? I don't think the strong ties are visible in the pics above, but hey, if you can hang on them, they're good. I can't remember if you planned to have some rope lighting up there, in addition to the stars?
 
#37 ·
The existing ceiling is going to remain. The framing is held 1" down from the existing drywall and is supported at the top plate using DC04 clips bolted thru the existing drywall ceiling into the existing floor trusses. The soffit was then "hung" from the wall framing using 2x6's which create the perimeter of the inside of the soffit and I used the Simpson screws with hex heads at the connection points. The soffit joists are held tight to the underside of the wall top plate so that there is in effect a 2.5" gap between the top of the soffit frame and the existing ceiling. The intermediate soffit framing is 2x4's so that's why you see a gap between the top plate of the wall and the top of the soffit framing. I will the frame the ceiling with 2x4's across the room @ 24" O.C. with batt insulation within the spaces and then I will hang my new ceiling drywall from them. I had purchased and might add the Simpson support angles at these new ceiling "joists" for piece of mine, but like I said, I can do pull ups without it flexing...

I'm going to do the DIY star ceiling, following ALMFamily's design, and the seven 3" can lights within the soffits. I'll add rope lighting to the risers edge and might add some below the theater seats so that people can get to their seats without having to turn on the other lights.

I temporarily pushed both rows of theater seats into the room to see how they fit and check for clearances and I MIGHT be able to use both rows AND a couple of recliners for the first row... But I'm going to finish up the room with the drywall before I can truly decide. It is TIGHT, but might be feasible. It also might force me to change my screen size to accommodate but I'm okay with that. We'll see.





I might go down to 3 seats at the back, centered in the room and then 4 for the middle row and offset them so that the people in the back row are looking through between the people in the row in front of them. They are aligned in the picture but I'm going to look into offsetting the rows and putting the back row on a 8.75" riser (need to study headroom further) and the middle on a 4.375" riser with the potential for a couple of recliners on the floor.
 
#39 ·
Got the rest of the soffit framing up tonight as well as some of the conduit. No pics. It's boring... Time to start building the backer boxes for the can lights and put blocking in for the surrounds. Then some more wiring.

I've decided to go with the Epson 8350 since it's been on my watch list for a long time and is an LCD PJ. I'm concerned my wife is sensitive to the RBE and want to stay away from it. I know I'll have to manually zoom if I want to watch 16:9 content but most of what we'll be viewing will be new blurays in 2.35:1 or thereabouts. The idea is that since 4k is fast approaching I can get into the 8350 now for under $1k and then when funds allow and I feel the need to upgrade I can do so at that time. So I should be able to get into a 125" diagonal 2.35:1 DIY screen and the 8350 for under $1500. I think that's a sweet deal that I can't pass up!
 
#40 ·
So in thinking about the design of the star field ceiling as ALM has it, I'm concerned about the MDF panels "ringing" and have thought about placing sound deadener typically used in car audio to dampen the effects that the LFE's will have on these loosely laid panels at the ceiling level. Normally you only need to adhere about 25% of the overall panel size in the material but I'm going to go to like 50% and a thicker (80mils) instead of the "standard" 50mils used in car audio. I'm hoping doing so will reduce the panel resonance. Obviously I would have to apply the deadener prior to drilling the holes for the fibers. Thoughts?

Also, we decided on a different carpet:

Image


It's the Joy Carpets "Damascus - 1755" in black. There is some slight blue cues in it as well so it will tie into the room nicely. This will be placed as the main "field" in the room while the stage and riser will be covered in a standard black carpet.

Tonight, I'm buying the rest of the insulation I need for the ceiling cavities and the MDF to start constructing the backer boxes.
 
#42 ·
Thanks Owen.

So I decided to try making my own putty pads out of the Duct Seal found in the electrical dept at my local HD. I used gloves, a plastic bag and a cardboard tube I had laying around to flatten out the thick puck that you get. This stuff is sticky! This was a trial and I think next time I'll see if aluminum foil will work better since it stuck to the plastic bag and was hard to seperate. Overall I think it should work out well and they are only $2.48 a piece plus I have $5 off when you spend $50 coupons. So in all I can make 20 for $48 after tax and a little bit of DIY labor.







I also used the foam-in-a-can to make sure my wiring doesn't create unwanted noise within the walls.



I also ran my conduit which comes down from above the soffit framing, along the stair framing and into the "hidden room" below the stairs. I can access the end of the conduit from the hidden room and this will allow me to make a nice, clean finished equipment room. More on this later.



The picture doesn't show the plastic ties I used to fasten the conduit to the framing...

I'm getting about 15 to 20 minutes a night to work on the room and about 2-4 hours on the weekends. My schedule is dictated by my better half.

Her = :foottap:
Me = :crying:
My son = :hissyfit:
 
#44 ·
What is a good, cheap acoustic sealant that HD carries? I can't find anything that's called "acoustic sealant". Latex? All Purpose? Silicone? Acrylic? Poly? I want to use it around the perimeter of the framing where it meets the concrete and around the perimeters of electrical boxes... I don't want to wait for it to ship or drop the $ on the GG sealant.
 
#45 · (Edited)
Watching the World Series at 5 feet away from my 60" Sharp AQUOS LCD and I'm very comfortable and enjoying it this large. I moved my recliner to put my eyeballs at 5 feet away from the screen. This is a 16:9 panel so I'm curious how this can translate to a good screen size for my HT. So would it be safe to say that doubling the screen size and viewing distance will produce the same viewing experience? So a 120" diag. 16:9 screen is what I should shoot for? I'm looking to build a 2.35:1 screen and manually mask for 16:9... So I would size it to 120" for 16:9 and let 2.35:1 be more immersive.
 
#46 ·
And we've started insulation folks!!!



The JM plastic wrapped insulation is within the stair wall and the 23" wide OC paper faced insulation is in the HT wall so that each wall has insulation. It's getting much quieter in the HT now! I got 2-3 hours to work on the room tonight while the kid, the wife and the neighbor watched The Croods upstairs.



Notice the plywood blocking for the rear surround...
 
#47 ·
Got nothing done this past weekend (other than receiving more stuff) due to everyone in the house being sick but I'm slowly recovering. I plan on getting back downstairs this week and weekend to finish up the wiring and the insulation.

After that it's drywall...

As I approach getting to a "finished" shell I'm thinking more and more about acoustic treatments. It's basically the last piece of the puzzle I haven't figured out or have a full plan for. My thoughts were to line the entire front wall with 2" of mineral wool. Then make "super chunk" corner bass traps using triangles of 4" thick mineral wool stacked in all four corners (24"x24"x~34"). And then place 3"x24"x48" panels at the first reflection points on the walls and ceiling as a starting point and then figure out what to do from there, if anything.

Thoughts?

Premature? Should I wait to do any treatments until I can test the rooms response? Obviously the cheapest solution is best considering my non-existent budget...

Brian!?! :D
 
#51 ·
Woohoo! Just had Christmas at my moms and she got me some Klipsch surrounds! Now all I need is my center and to finish this room! Also got a $100 gift card to HD so that'll help cover the carpet and pad. Goin to work on the room this week since I have about 5 days off from work. All I have left to buy for equipment is a PJ and to make my DIY screen!
 
#53 ·
Found an RC3 center for sale locally on the Klipsch forum so hopefully I've got all my speakers. I'm still going to save up for the RF62 II to use for a center but this will cover me or the time being. Going to work on the room tomorrow morning! And I will post pics! :D
As a owner and fan you may want to look into the RF-64. It's big but very nice I match mine with some RF-63 for L/R only because I thought RF-83's would be to big and heavy for me to move with out having help. Nice work so far:).
 
#55 ·
My kid got strep throat this week so once again the build all but screeched to a halt. I managed to hang a few more sheets of drywall and got the rest of the basement cleaned up so now I can focus on the HT exclusively when I go down there to work. I also picked up my entry door which is a solid core 2 panel style to match the rest of the doors in the house.

Some of my electrical boxes aren't sticking out far enough into their holes in the drywall. Is there a way to fix that so that the outlets line up nicely with the cover plates?
 
#58 ·
Went downstairs yesterday to find an inch of standing water in the basement! THANKFULLY we didn't lose anything since all the stuff in storage is in plastic totes. The HT materials are all okay since I had the small stuff in boxes on a bench and the I've dried out the lumber that was laid down. Running a dehumidifier for a few days to dry out the rest. Found out the drainage systems outlet pipe that supposed to be exposed to daylight had backed up due to ice build up. With this years winter in Maine we've had snow, freezing rain and then unseasonably warm temps which caused a deep melt and high surface water table. All of this compounded to a clogged pipe and all the runoff went above and below my slab!