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Pednault's Place Theater Build

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51K views 167 replies 15 participants last post by  Todd Anderson  
#1 · (Edited)
Let me catch you all up to speed with my build. I've been stock piling materials for several weeks now and am slowly making progress on the framing.

My first theater design was in 2009 for a new home I had designed (architect by trade), but we didn't build it. Fast forward 3 years, bought a newly constructed home in January of 2012 and put in a couple of provisions for my dedicated theater during the build. My dad builds homes for a living (and built mine), so I got the chance to add some dedicated electrical outlets and coax to the closet under the central stairs which will be my future AV/Media closet.

Pay no attention to the color scheme as I haven't decided on ANY of the colors yet.


Xray view facing the screen:


I'm moving this water pressure tank next weekend so that it's out of the theater:


Framed the entry door:


I'm using 2x4's spaced at 24" on center and will be using one layer of 5/8" drywall for the walls and soffits (more on this later). I'll be using a million and a half tubes of acoustic sealant anywhere I can. I built the wall parallel to the existing stairwell wall and held it off by 1". And also built the return wall which creates the storage space behind the back of the HT. I'll be picking away at the other two walls over the course of this week. I plan on holding the walls along the concrete foundation walls by at least 2" to allow for the water inlet pipe run back to the storage room. I'll be wrapping the new pipe in insulation so that it doesn't create noise within the wall.

The finished room dimensions will be approximately 12'-2" x 19'-8" x 7'-3" before acoustic treatments. I've fully decoupled the walls using the room within a room concept. The only attachment points to the pre-existing structure will be at the sill plate that rests on foam sill sealer and the tops of the walls which will be held utilizing RSIC-DC04's fastening thru the existing drywall into the floor trusses. The existing ceiling is 5/8" drywall with engineered floor trusses with the cavities filled with R19 fiberglass batts. Since I'm building a "fish-tank" I'm hoping I can watch movies and play my video games while my wife and son sleep two stories up. We'll find out since, once I get the first layer of drywall up in the room, I'm going to do some serious, full range, high SPL testing. If I find that my methods are not sufficient I will add another layer of 5/8" drywall with Green Glue between the staggered layers. If that still doesn't function, I'll just have to adjust the maximum volume setting on my Onkyo! :heehee:

I'm new to posting here but have been an avid reader/researcher of both this forum and AVS. So I'm familiar with the methods used for sound isolation and the like. I haven't set a budget on this build as I will pick away at it as funds allow. So far, I've got a stock pile of all the 2x4's I'll need with only the riser and stage lumber to purchase. I've got seven 3" can lights for the soffits, black Lutron dimmers, black outlets, electrical boxes, wiring, 200' of CL2 speaker wire, PVC electrical conduit which will create a raceway around the soffit for future low voltage runs, RG6 subwoofer cable, a 7.1 HDMI wall plate for the AV closet, High Speed HDMI cable for the PJ, all the R13 insulation I'll need for the walls and soffits and probably a bunch more of miscellaneous items I'm currently forgetting.

Every trip I make to Home Dustpan :rofl: from now on, I pick up at least one 50lb bag of sand since I will need 30 of them to fill my stage. I'm currently at 8. It's less burdensome to lug one or two bags down every couple of days rather than trying to do it all at once. BTW, that's over 1500 pounds of sand...

I've got some 3/4" MDF left over from subwoofer builds (I install car audio as a part time job) which I will use to make backer boxes for outlets/lights and such. I'm going to mount my PJ within a hush box which will have an exhaust fan dumping the hot air into the adjacent storage space and keeping as much of the PJ's noise out of the HT.

I'm framing the soffits in such a way that actually makes them more like roof framing. They will not touch the existing ceiling and will hang from the new wall framing at the perimeter of the HT utilizing Simpson Strong-ties. Therefore, it will be decoupled from the rest of the house. Any penetration into the HT drywall will receive a backer box of MDF and sealed with acoustic sealant. The soffit and the main ceiling cavities will be filled with fiberglass batts as well.

I'm going to build an 8' x 8' riser and push it to the back and one side of the HT. This will allow my in-swing door to fully open 90 degrees and will allow for the most seating. My seating plans are to get a reclining sofa for the front row and I'm still battling my decision for the back row. I've found some real theater seats locally on craigslist, but I'm sure they aren't all that comfortable. But at only $150 for two rows of 4, I may just buy them and see if I can squeeze both rows on my riser 8'x8'... Since the theater will be used by only me 60% of the time and by me, my wife and one son 25% more, with only the remaining 15% being for family gatherings and parties, the sofa will be the money seat while the back row(s) are "filler" seating. I may have just talked myself into buying those seats while typing this! :heehee:

Actual shot of one of the seats I might buy:


If you haven't noticed already, I tend to ramble on and type too much but it's mostly due to me keeping a running list of things I need to do or decide on or even things I need help with.

And before I get bombarded with "what are you doing for HVAC" questions, let me give you a bit more information. I live in Maine. My basement is 8 to 10 degrees cooler (even more so in the winter) than the rest of the house and currently has no heat source besides the earth below and surrounding it. I've got 2" of rigid insulation under the slab and 8" thick concrete walls around the perimeter. We, here in Maine, don't have central forced air, ducted HVAC systems because we don't usually have the need for cooling. When and if we do, we use window AC units to cool our homes. The adjacent room to my theater will be a game room / bar area which has two windows that can easily take a window AC unit if the need arises. As for heat, the adjacent room will get one of the infrared Edenpure fake fireplace heaters and that's it, no heat in the theater other than warm bodies and lighting (my equipment will all be within the AV/Media Closet). If I find that the air is too stale in the HT, I will simply open the door and run a small room fan to circulate the air. When it's just me in the theater most of the time I can't imagine it getting uncomfortable over the course of under 3 hours and if it does I'll figure out a way to manage it then. For now, there is absolutely zero plans for any venting or cooling for my HT. My initial plan was to use two dead vent systems, (one for supply and one for exhaust) and although it would be a royal PITA, I've designed the framing to allow for me to add them in if I need them, only needing to cut away the drywall. Go ahead, you can say it now... "We told ya so". Yeah, yeah.

:hsd:

List of currently owned equipment:
Denon X1100W
Xbox One
Wii
Klipsch Reference RF-62 II (LCR)
Klipsch S-10 (Surrounds)
Dayton B652's (Front heights, for now)
TubaHT (I might build another one later)
Behringer NU1000DSP Sub Amp
Epson 8500UB (traded it for the Panny I won, hopefully no hard feelings from HTS)
DIY 46x108 (117.5" diag.) 2.35:1 AT Screen
 
#89 ·
Sorry I haven't posted about the PJ yet! I received it last week and plugged it in, connected my AppleTV and projected on my office wall to test it. It works flawlessly! Thanks again Sonnie and HTS!

As for my rooms progress I was able to hang one sheet of drywall this week. I've just been too busy with work (I'm working full time and picked up a part time job), pulling together two business plans for two separate businesses I'd like to start and normal life stuff like having a kid and a nagging wife (I love you honey!).

Top that with having to plow when the snow falls and having to maintain my vehicles myself, I don't know how I'm surviving! Hopefully this madness will slow down enough for me to get back downstairs to work on the room!
 
#91 ·
It's been a month since my less confession. I come here to state that I've yet again seldom worked on my room. I did however manage to hang more drywall and will be picking up the last two sheets to complete the room this weekend. As well as the tape and mud. Once that's done I can start framing the stage and riser!!!

Wish me luck!
I wish i was that far along!
 
#93 ·
View attachment 47871

Light 1 of 7 all wired and installed! Going to be painting the trim satin black later on. All the holes are cut, just need to find time to finish wiring them. I still have to tape and mud the walls among everything else on the list! But progress is progress in my mind!
Nice!

I remember when I got my first lights up - I sat in there for an hour playing with them... :heehee:
 
#94 ·
Hate to say this but I'm actually dreading it. I'm not an electrician and although I took a course in home electricity way back in 1997 (high school vocational) I'm still nervous about something bad happening. Anything with high voltage/power that can turn out disastrous makes me very nervous. I'm sure it will be fine since I triple checked all my wiring, it's just always in the back of my mind. Even if I had hired an electrician it makes me concerned. As I age I get more and more worried about this stuff!
 
#95 ·
Same here... I feel comfortable doing low voltage but not electrical.
 
#99 ·
Before:
View attachment 47938


During:
View attachment 47937



Sheen is due to wet paint:
View attachment 47936

After:
View attachment 47935

View attachment 47934


I'll be installing and testing them out today. I haven't cut the holes for the 3 at the screen yet because I want to create this effect:

View attachment 47933
Credit to HTip for his great looking HT.

How do I figure out the placement of the lights to get that effect?
Nice job on the painting!

You are going to have to get the type of baffles that allow you to direct light I think...
 
#102 · (Edited)
Decided to just go with my gut and installed the screen lights. Yay! This felt REALLY good to get to this phase in the project.

Seeing how the trim looks:







Wait, is that a...............no.....it can't be.....!!!! Is that framing for a STAGE!?




I put two layers of 30# asphalt roofing felt between the framing and the slab. I used recycled PT 2x lumber from my moms old house and Simpson Strongtie screws. We tore her old deck apart and I saved these for this exact use. I also caulked the joint between the drywall and the slab. I taped all the seams and will be mudding throughout this week. Since 80% of all the drywall in the room will be covered with fabric wrapped panels, I'm only doing a single coat of mud and sanding it down to make it relatively presentable. I'll be painting the ENTIRE room SW ProMar 200 flat black. The only exposed drywall will be the ceiling which has already been taped and mudded. I did this intentionally since my finishing skills aren't sufficient enough to create a nice smooth drywall finish. PROGRESS FEELS SO GOOD! LOL
 
#103 ·
Decided to just go with my gut and installed the screen lights. Yay! This felt REALLY good to get to this phase in the project.

Seeing how the trim looks:

View attachment 47955


View attachment 47956


View attachment 47957


Wait, is that a...............no.....it can't be.....!!!! Is that framing for a STAGE!?!


View attachment 47958

I put two layers of 30# asphalt roofing felt between the framing and the slab. I used recycled PT 2x lumber from my moms old house and Simpson Strongtie screws. We tore her old deck apart and I saved these for this exact use.

I also caulked the joint between the drywall and the slab. I taped all the seams and will be mudding throughout this week. Since 80% of all the drywall in the room will be covered with fabric wrapped panels, I'm only doing a single coat of mud and sanding it down to make it relatively presentable.

I'll be painting the ENTIRE room SW ProMar 300 flat black. The only exposed drywall will be the ceiling which has already been taped and mudded. I did this intentionally since my finishing skills aren't sufficient enough to create a nice smooth drywall finish.

PROGRESS FEELS SO GOOD! LOL
Great progress mate - looking good!
 
#104 ·
Time to select the paint brand, line, sheen and color for my room!

All of the walls will be covered in fabric wrapped panels for which I've already selected the 3 colors for. Refer to the post where I show pictures of the seats and the GoM fabric selections for those colors.

The carpet is going to be a cheap black commercial grade carpet throughout the room but we'll be buying a custom carpet to overlay onto that with. I'm posting from my phone so I'll have add the link to the carpet we might go with later on today.

The ceiling is going to be black and needs to be non-reflective and as smooth as possible so that I can install a glow-in-the-dark star field kit: http://www.theglowpatch.com/XVR-Star-Ceiling.html

Since the walls will be 100% covered with panels I don't need to worry so much about the finish other than painting it so that the white drywall doesn't show through. With that said I think the easiest and most effective approach is to paint the entire room (walls and ceiling) with the same paint. Since the ceiling will be the only exposed, painted surface, that will determine which paint I go with...

I'm hoping to test a few in the room with actual paint and not just swatches. Keep in mind, my cousin is a regional sales manager for SW so I get his discount on their paint. Plus, I've never used anything but SW paints and my firm only specifies their paint for all of our building projects...

Sooooo, what brand, line, sheen and color should I try out?
 
#105 ·
I like the star field idea too... Won't the stars be distracting though when you are watching a movie since you can't turn them off? The other thing is how will they react to light from a projector?
 
#109 ·
I just found this at the glowpatch site...

"Question:
Will your star kits work in theater rooms?
Answer:
The XVR bedroom series has been designed for bedrooms only and needs to be in darkness with no interfering light. They will not work in a theatre room, you would need to use a fibre optic system. I have customers that set up my bedroom stars in their theatre rooms and listen to music under the stars before or after movies and in that way provided the room is dark from all other light the stars will work perfect. A new XVR version that is LED powered will be available later this year."

I will wait to purchase until the Pednault has completed his, and see what he thinks about it. It def appears to be the least expensive route to get a decent night sky. :T
 
#110 ·
The way he answered that question is rather interesting. It sounds as though he thinks someone wants to see the stars WHILE the projector is on (which is not the case, for me at least).

So lets break his response down.

The XVR bedroom series has been designed for bedrooms only and needs to be [topic 1]in darkness with no interfering light. They will not work in a theatre room, you would need to use a fibre optic system. I have customers that set up my bedroom stars in their theatre rooms and listen to music under the stars [topic 2]before or after movies and in that way provided [topic 3]the room is dark from all other light the stars will work perfect.

Topic 1.
He states that the kit is for the darkest room as possible with no interfering lighting. What is darker than a dedicated HT with no light and no PJ on? I don't know anyone with a flat black ceiling, dark colored fabric paneled walls and a mostly black carpet in their bedroom... Do you?

Topic 2.
This is the key to having this work for me and this application. The star kit is for my guests and myself to view before or after the movie and during music listening sessions. NOT WHILE watching a movie. The fact that he states this, means that the stars will lose their luster and sparkle while the PJ's light washes across the ceiling, which I'm 100% okay with.

Topic 3.
With the lights and PJ off in my dedicated HT, you won't be able to see your hand in front of your face! What a PERFECT setting for his XVR kit (with the PJ and lights off, or at least dim)!!! Refer to Topic 1....

So hell yes I'm going to give this kit a try! One of my coworkers used one of his kits in a child's room and said that they were awesome, easy to apply and for the quality of what you receive in the kit, its worth the price for the effect given. I truly wanted to go with fiber optics but with my already low ceiling height and almost $0 budget, I couldn't justify the expense considering this kit is available in this level of quality and price-point.

I'll be sure to write a review for both HTS and back to the company as I want him to realize it has a use in the HT world, given the customer understands the effects the stars create in a dedicated HT.

Now, back to paint! I'm concerned that just going with any old flat black isn't going to give me the results I'm after. Certainly the quality of the painted finishes is 99% dependent upon the level of the preparation and what the paint is covering. So I'm going to have to hire someone to come in and remud and sand the bajesus out of the ceiling to ensure that it's as smooth as a babies behind. Then and only then would any old flat black would do the trick...
 
#113 ·
I really like the idea, and if it works out nicely for you I will most likely also do it. :T
 
#112 ·
What if you wrapped some pegboard with black fabric (and glued it to the pegboard), and then attached the star dots to that... By doing it this way you could have fabric on all the surfaces and not have to worry about paint.
 
#115 ·
Gotcha. :T
 
#116 ·
About to go pick up my HD order for the rest of the drywall and the corner bead for the outside edge of the soffit. I'll be finishing up the stage framing today and will start laying the sand within the spaces inside plastic sheeting. I'm hoping I also have enough time to start building the PJ shelf and finish up the curved soffit that goes above the screen which will match the stage arch.
 
#117 ·
Sounds good! At least one of us is making some progress on their HT.
 
#119 ·
One thing I have done with my current project which has really helped - I try to do something every day. Even if it is something as minor as putting up a couple of wall plates, at least I can tell myself that I worked on it that day. It really helped me to feel like I was always making progress.

Which reminds me - I really need to update my thread!
 
#121 ·
#123 · (Edited)
Can I officially call it a room now? It has a door!



And for those inquiring minds, this is what the inside of a Jeld-Wen "solid core" door looks like.



16 bags later, we have sand in 4 bays of the stage!




Only 4 bags (1 bay) left to go. I might need 1 more bag to top them all off. I'm leaving 3 bays on either side without sand but will put fiberglass batts in there instead. The riser is getting the batts too which is coming up next after I put down the plywood on the stage.

I picked up the metal corner bead for the outside soffit edge and some mud and tools to start in on finishing up the drywall. I held the stage 3/4" off the wall so I can insert backer rod in there so I grabbed that too. This weekend I plan on framing the rest of the basement walls for the other rooms and framing the riser. Progress!!!
 
#124 ·
Our solid core door looked like particle board when we shortened it, but it was def solid. Is your solid inside?
 
#125 ·
I should explain a but more. I cut the bottom off the door to fit my opening and the cut edge is what you see there. The end (vertical part of the door) is the solid piece of wood you see in the pic. The inside of the door is a composite material that's basically particles of wood glued together. It is solid just not what I was expecting I guess.
 
#126 ·
That is like ours was when we cut it but yours looks like some of it fell out... Did you reseal it with veneer or anything?
 
#128 ·
Great project you are doing! Sorry I didn't respond to your PM. I've been really busy and time on forums was cut short because of that.

Now to answer your question about the placement of my lights. My ceiling was layout in such a way that It was symmetrical and I placed the lights exactly in the middle of each tile. The effect on the screen was a bonus and not planned, but turned out nicely. When we changed construction of the bass traps and the fixed screen, we had to change the position of the lights and this time the lights were also positioned exactly in the middle both in length and width of the tile.

Good luck with the build. Keep up the good work :T