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Pednault's Place Theater Build

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51K views 167 replies 15 participants last post by  Todd Anderson  
#1 · (Edited)
Let me catch you all up to speed with my build. I've been stock piling materials for several weeks now and am slowly making progress on the framing.

My first theater design was in 2009 for a new home I had designed (architect by trade), but we didn't build it. Fast forward 3 years, bought a newly constructed home in January of 2012 and put in a couple of provisions for my dedicated theater during the build. My dad builds homes for a living (and built mine), so I got the chance to add some dedicated electrical outlets and coax to the closet under the central stairs which will be my future AV/Media closet.

Pay no attention to the color scheme as I haven't decided on ANY of the colors yet.


Xray view facing the screen:


I'm moving this water pressure tank next weekend so that it's out of the theater:


Framed the entry door:


I'm using 2x4's spaced at 24" on center and will be using one layer of 5/8" drywall for the walls and soffits (more on this later). I'll be using a million and a half tubes of acoustic sealant anywhere I can. I built the wall parallel to the existing stairwell wall and held it off by 1". And also built the return wall which creates the storage space behind the back of the HT. I'll be picking away at the other two walls over the course of this week. I plan on holding the walls along the concrete foundation walls by at least 2" to allow for the water inlet pipe run back to the storage room. I'll be wrapping the new pipe in insulation so that it doesn't create noise within the wall.

The finished room dimensions will be approximately 12'-2" x 19'-8" x 7'-3" before acoustic treatments. I've fully decoupled the walls using the room within a room concept. The only attachment points to the pre-existing structure will be at the sill plate that rests on foam sill sealer and the tops of the walls which will be held utilizing RSIC-DC04's fastening thru the existing drywall into the floor trusses. The existing ceiling is 5/8" drywall with engineered floor trusses with the cavities filled with R19 fiberglass batts. Since I'm building a "fish-tank" I'm hoping I can watch movies and play my video games while my wife and son sleep two stories up. We'll find out since, once I get the first layer of drywall up in the room, I'm going to do some serious, full range, high SPL testing. If I find that my methods are not sufficient I will add another layer of 5/8" drywall with Green Glue between the staggered layers. If that still doesn't function, I'll just have to adjust the maximum volume setting on my Onkyo! :heehee:

I'm new to posting here but have been an avid reader/researcher of both this forum and AVS. So I'm familiar with the methods used for sound isolation and the like. I haven't set a budget on this build as I will pick away at it as funds allow. So far, I've got a stock pile of all the 2x4's I'll need with only the riser and stage lumber to purchase. I've got seven 3" can lights for the soffits, black Lutron dimmers, black outlets, electrical boxes, wiring, 200' of CL2 speaker wire, PVC electrical conduit which will create a raceway around the soffit for future low voltage runs, RG6 subwoofer cable, a 7.1 HDMI wall plate for the AV closet, High Speed HDMI cable for the PJ, all the R13 insulation I'll need for the walls and soffits and probably a bunch more of miscellaneous items I'm currently forgetting.

Every trip I make to Home Dustpan :rofl: from now on, I pick up at least one 50lb bag of sand since I will need 30 of them to fill my stage. I'm currently at 8. It's less burdensome to lug one or two bags down every couple of days rather than trying to do it all at once. BTW, that's over 1500 pounds of sand...

I've got some 3/4" MDF left over from subwoofer builds (I install car audio as a part time job) which I will use to make backer boxes for outlets/lights and such. I'm going to mount my PJ within a hush box which will have an exhaust fan dumping the hot air into the adjacent storage space and keeping as much of the PJ's noise out of the HT.

I'm framing the soffits in such a way that actually makes them more like roof framing. They will not touch the existing ceiling and will hang from the new wall framing at the perimeter of the HT utilizing Simpson Strong-ties. Therefore, it will be decoupled from the rest of the house. Any penetration into the HT drywall will receive a backer box of MDF and sealed with acoustic sealant. The soffit and the main ceiling cavities will be filled with fiberglass batts as well.

I'm going to build an 8' x 8' riser and push it to the back and one side of the HT. This will allow my in-swing door to fully open 90 degrees and will allow for the most seating. My seating plans are to get a reclining sofa for the front row and I'm still battling my decision for the back row. I've found some real theater seats locally on craigslist, but I'm sure they aren't all that comfortable. But at only $150 for two rows of 4, I may just buy them and see if I can squeeze both rows on my riser 8'x8'... Since the theater will be used by only me 60% of the time and by me, my wife and one son 25% more, with only the remaining 15% being for family gatherings and parties, the sofa will be the money seat while the back row(s) are "filler" seating. I may have just talked myself into buying those seats while typing this! :heehee:

Actual shot of one of the seats I might buy:


If you haven't noticed already, I tend to ramble on and type too much but it's mostly due to me keeping a running list of things I need to do or decide on or even things I need help with.

And before I get bombarded with "what are you doing for HVAC" questions, let me give you a bit more information. I live in Maine. My basement is 8 to 10 degrees cooler (even more so in the winter) than the rest of the house and currently has no heat source besides the earth below and surrounding it. I've got 2" of rigid insulation under the slab and 8" thick concrete walls around the perimeter. We, here in Maine, don't have central forced air, ducted HVAC systems because we don't usually have the need for cooling. When and if we do, we use window AC units to cool our homes. The adjacent room to my theater will be a game room / bar area which has two windows that can easily take a window AC unit if the need arises. As for heat, the adjacent room will get one of the infrared Edenpure fake fireplace heaters and that's it, no heat in the theater other than warm bodies and lighting (my equipment will all be within the AV/Media Closet). If I find that the air is too stale in the HT, I will simply open the door and run a small room fan to circulate the air. When it's just me in the theater most of the time I can't imagine it getting uncomfortable over the course of under 3 hours and if it does I'll figure out a way to manage it then. For now, there is absolutely zero plans for any venting or cooling for my HT. My initial plan was to use two dead vent systems, (one for supply and one for exhaust) and although it would be a royal PITA, I've designed the framing to allow for me to add them in if I need them, only needing to cut away the drywall. Go ahead, you can say it now... "We told ya so". Yeah, yeah.

:hsd:

List of currently owned equipment:
Denon X1100W
Xbox One
Wii
Klipsch Reference RF-62 II (LCR)
Klipsch S-10 (Surrounds)
Dayton B652's (Front heights, for now)
TubaHT (I might build another one later)
Behringer NU1000DSP Sub Amp
Epson 8500UB (traded it for the Panny I won, hopefully no hard feelings from HTS)
DIY 46x108 (117.5" diag.) 2.35:1 AT Screen
 
#130 · (Edited)
I was laying in my recliner listening to some tunes and it dawned on me that I could do something............ The kiss of death.




Yup, that's an unpainted, tilted into place sheet of drywall................




Yup, that's Cap on display in the HT!!!!!!!!!!

If that ain't motivation, I don't know what is!!! Time to get this room done!
 

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#133 · (Edited)
Alright guys. I'm about to start planning out my acoustic treatments and the ideas I've had impact how much and where I'll be painting. So before I buy paint, I want to figure out my acoustic treatment plan. I know I should get the room done and then measure without treatments but I'd like to be proactive and at least figure out the start of my plan.

My finished room (before treatments obviously) is 12'-3" wide x 19'-9" long x 7'-3.5" ceiling height. The soffit drops down to 9" below the 7'-3.5" ceiling so it's at 6'-6.5" above the floor.

The soffit is 26" off the wall on all sides except for its distance from the front wall. The inside dimensions of the soffit are 7'-10" wide x 11'-10" long.

The AT false wall will be placed on the stage at approximately 4'-0" into the room as measured from the front wall.

The stage is resting on two layers of 30# roofing felt and is made out of 2x8 PT framing, sand filled and will have a single layer of 3/4" T&G Advantech sheathing (glued and screwed) and then covered with 8lb. carpet pad and carpet. The riser will be built using the same framing and sheathing as the stage. The floor will be covered with the same pad and carpet as the riser and stage.

My plan is to paint the ceiling flat black and place my glow stars up there. The soffit will get a crown moulding which will double as a tray to hold the LED strip lighting. I'll line the inside with aluminum foil to reflect as much light up as I can. Here is the LED kit I'm going with (2 strips) HERE. I'll be painting the soffit and the trim the same flat black as the ceiling.

Now as for the walls, I'm planning on doing bass traps in all four corners using stacked 2" Roxul AFB from floor to ceiling with the short sides of the triangle being 24". Basically cutting the 24" x 48" boards into equal triangles and then stacking them... I'll place the insulation triangles within 2x3 wood frames that are screwed into the walls. I'll wrap the resulting bass traps with an AT fabric of some sort.

I'll line the entire front wall with ductliner, along the side walls from the front wall until it reaches the backside of the false wall framing and then along the entire length of each side wall, up to 48" (4" above ear level at the MLP). How thick should I do the front wall? How thick should I do the sides until it reaches the false wall? How thick should it be from the false wall all the way back to the back corner bass trap?

From there I'll be placing my DIY custom printed acoustic panels (24"W x 36"H) at the points along the side walls using the mirror trick. I'm thinking two per side. I've also got one large DIY custom printed acoustic panel (49"W x 21"H) that will be centered on the back wall. How much Roxul AFB should I place inside my DIY panels? 2" thick? 1" thick? Or wait until I measure?

Would all this treatment make my room too dead? I'd like to prescriptively approach... Or should I just paint my entire room black and take measurements and then treat as I need?

I should add that I'm going with 7.1 with front heights hung from the ceiling and pointed at the MLP. I'll tow-in my Klipsch RF-62 mains at the MLP and directly center the third RF-62 (center channel). This puts my front speaker's tweeters at 44" (36" tweeter height + 8" stage) above the floor which is spot-on to the MLP ear height (44" for me :D ).

The surrounds will be placed 100° back from the MLP with the tweeters at 26" above ear height (5'-10" above the floor).

The false wall will be framed using 2x3 studs wrapped with AT fabric and my DIY spandex screen (122.5" diagonal 2.35:1) will be made to hinge up so I can access the speakers. The TubaHT will be on the stage but it's final position will be based on measurements. I'm going to need to get a spike kit for it since it dances across the carpet without them.
 
#134 ·
The sides I would do 3-4" thick. The rear, as thick as you can tolerate. Use a membrane on the rear one to minimize absorption in the rear to keep the surround field a bit more lively but grab the bass in the back to prevent cancellations off that wall and boom for seats close to the wall.
 
#136 ·
It can be anything from that to FSK to pond liner to MLV pending what frequencies you want to start blocking at, how quick you want it to roll off, and how much bass enhancement you want to try to get from the damped membrane.

MLV will roll off the fastest, cut off the lowest, and give the most bass absorption gain in terms of frequency extension.
 
#137 ·
I'm going to put up the four side wall DIY art panels, the one rear DIY art panel and the four corner bass traps and then measure using a mic and REW. Then I'll see what I need to do in addition to those treatments. I ordered my Behringer iNuke 1000DSP today and the soffit LED strip lights. A friend is coming to finish the drywall before I paint. This weekend I'll be laying the plywood on the stage and starting the riser.
 
#138 ·
First coat of mud is on the walls and soffit! Tomorrow will be another coat and then on to sanding. Picked up some black paint for the ceiling and will be deciding on a wall paint color soon. Oh and I ordered some fabric from Magna fabrics in Jersey. Larry was a nice guy and tossed in some samples of other fabrics I might be interested in. Going with the GoM Anchorage line for the walls and bass traps and am trying to find just 3 yards of GoM FR701 in black for the false wall, but all of the places have at least a 5 yard minimum order. No sense in ordering 2 extra yards but if I have to, I'll just bite the bullet.

I'm going with Ultratouch denim insulation in all of the treatments. I don't feel comfortable with fiberglass possibly entering the room and the stats I've read on it's sound absorbtion are outstanding, even compared to fiberglass. Not sure why people aren't using the denim instead of fiberglass...
 
#139 ·
Been almost two months since my last update! Well, I'm glad to say that I'm on vacation next week and my plan is to get down in the basement and do some more work on the room. I still have to mud and sand the drywall. I plan on doing that and also start the riser construction. I've bought some hardware to hang my PJ from the soffit and might find some time to get that installed.

I'm sticking to my useable room date of Super Bowl XLIX (February 1, 2015)!!! I won't have time to get the rest of the basement (family room/bar area) done by then, but at least we'll be able to use the room (hopefully)!
 
#140 ·
Got the framing members cut for the riser today. Also put up the metal corner bead around the outside edge of the soffit for a nice sharp edge. I had a lot to clean up and organize so I wasn't able to get much done but I told the wife whenever it rains I want a few hours to work on the room.

Next I'll cut and lay the plywood on the stage and riser and then finish up mudding and sanding the drywall. Hey progress is progress, even if a small amount.
 
#142 ·
No pics to show but I've got the plywood screwed down on the stage and riser. I have two coats of mud on the walls. I'll be heading down there this weekend to sand it, then the final coat of mud goes on and then some more sanding. Then I'll paint the ceiling and walls. Then the wood trim goes up and gets painted. I'm pushing to have the walls and ceiling painted before the end of this month.
 
#143 ·
Wow! Has it really been 5 months already!?! And it's 2015!?! And the Super Bowl is only 18 short days away!?! Guess I won't be meeting my deadline... It's been bitter cold here in southern Maine and I just haven't wanted to bundle up and head down to work on the HT. With that said, I plan on finishing up the remainder of the outside walls complete with insulation so I can get some heat down there. I just ordered the spandex for my DIY AT screen this morning! I'm hoping to lay down the carpet pad and carpet this weekend! We shall see!
 
#146 ·
So I've made leaps and bounds of progress in my room. I'll be posting pictures this weekend. I've made my own movie theater poster acoustic panels, corner bass traps, have an 8" riser, 8 real theater seats, a 108" 2.35:1 DIY acoustically transparent screen (2 layers of white milliskin) on hinges so I can get to the Klipsch LCR and TubaHT sub behind the false wall on the sand-filled stage. I've got 42" high wainscoting at the sides of the room which has denim insulation inside and will be covered with fabric. I'm putting up glow-in-the-dark stars on the flat black ceiling and color changing LED strip lighting behind the crown molding around the inside of the soffit. I still have a ton of work to do to get it done for my sons 5th birthday party but I think I'll make it!

I owe a huge debt of thanks to this forum.
 
#147 ·
PICS!!!!!!!!!! Sorry about the quality of these. I took them with my iPhone. I'll take better ones with my Canon DSLR once I get the trim and wall panels done. I've got to paint the door, install the trim including the wainscot cap, the soffit trim at all three corners of the soffit, the door trim and the base trim around the room. Then I'm going to finish the screen, hang the PJ, install the speakers and then I still need to hang the drywall in the AV closet and finish that room before I can terminate the connections at my AVR. BUT I can now see the light at the end of the tunnel!!!

Almost forgot to mention that I bought a Dell ChromeBox today and will be installing Kodi on it to use in the HT! I can't wait to get it all up and running using my Harmony Smart Control!!!

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#148 ·
Looks great! I'll bet you will like Kodi too. :T
 
#151 ·
Looks great! Are you also running them on a dimmer?
 
#153 · (Edited)
Movie poster acoustic panel number one almost done!


It pays to have a dad who builds homes for a living! This finish nailer is awesome. The clamp is mine from my speaker building days.


Poor mans acoustic panel! This is pillow stuffing that's temporary until I get my order of Roxul. The panel is mounted using industrial Velcro so I can easily take it off the wall to replace the insulation.


I'll be adding a decorative crown moulding around the edge for a nice finished look!

Sorry for the bad cellphone pics. I'll be taking final pictures with my canon once the rooms done.