[McG1977]

I am a newbie and I am getting ready to build my first sub in about 15 years and I don't know much about either one of these companies. I was wondering if the Peerless 830500 XLS 12" Subwoofer or the Dayton RSS315HO-4 12" Reference HO Subwoofer would be better for a ported HT/Music Sub.

Thanks, This place rocks!

 

[Mike P.]

Both are good subs although they have limited excursion (Xmax) for HT. The Peerless requires a small cabinet, porting is best done with a passive radiator which would add to the cost. A little more info would help in recommending the best solution for you.

Budget for sub and an amp?

Maximum box size that is acceptable?

How big is the room, is it sealed or open to other areas?

Low end output expectations?

 

[McG1977]

I think my size limit would be around 6 cu ft. My room is not large, (12 X 18) but does join an open area. My budget would be about $450 for the speaker and amp.

 

[Mike P.]

A Dayton Titanic 15 in a 24 inch external cube powered by a O-Audio 500 watt amp with two 4 inch flared ports.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-420&AID=10624738&PID=2777698

http://www.oaudio.com/500W_SUBAMP.html

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=268-352&AID=10624738&PID=2777698

$220 for the sub plus shipping, $229 for the amp with free shipping. A pair of 4 inch flared ports is $28. It's a few dollars over your $450 budget but you can save on the ports by building a slot port which is simple enough. This would be the best bang for the buck for your room size.

 

[McG1977]

Thanks! I am afraid that a 15" might be too much for my room but I am not so well versed in this area. What about the Titanic 12" with the Dayton Plate amp? Would I be dissapointed with this setup?

 

[focusrocker]

I know what you mean about being to much for a room, but to me it is more important to match your sub with your main speakers. I have some small polk 2 way bookshelf speakers, and my ported css sdx10 is showing the weakness of my mains.

I would love the bass that a 12 or 15 would provide, but I would seriously need to upgrade my speakers. Yeah, I know you can cut the 12 or 15 down, but why build a 6+ ft box, when a 2 or 3 may do? But then you need to look at headroom, my 10" runs out of steam sometimes. Oh, so many compromises to be made!

My room is close to the size of your room with openings as well. I think a 12" ported would work nice, depending upon placement. My 10" sounds great where I have it located. However, I placed the sub in many locations, and some spots just sounded terrible.

 

[McG1977]

Thanks for the input. My mains are B&W 601's and they get loud but are definitely lacking on the low end. I am running them off of a Denon 2802 receiver.

 

[ironglen]

imo, for music only, a nicely sized sub- will sound pretty good; for HT also I'd go with the greater headroom the 15" can provide without straining-you'll be thankful for it, especially with the hotly recorded soundtracks on movies. And if you're taking the time and expense to build it...I like that my new sub doesn't 'complain' because the former did at times-and I noticed.

 

[Mike P.]

A 15 inch sub isn't too big for the room size you have, especially for the HT part where low end output requires the sub to move air. If you should find that the sub overpowers the mains with music, you simply turn the sub down a bit.

 

[McG1977]

A Dayton Titanic 15 in a 24 inch external cube powered by a O-Audio 500 watt amp with two 4 inch flared ports.



$220 for the sub plus shipping, $229 for the amp with free shipping. A pair of 4 inch flared ports is $28. It's a few dollars over your $450 budget but you can save on the ports by building a slot port which is simple enough. This would be the best bang for the buck for your room size.

View attachment 15034

Mike P what value did you use for power when you ran winISD?

 

[Mike P.]

500 watts input power, with the high pass filter set at 20 hz. The 20 hz HPF has 4 db of boost, I modeled it with the EQ cutting the boost to 2 db. ( The EQ on the amp is cut only, the effective range is 18 - 80 hz).

 

[McG1977]

Thanks, That explains the difference in your model output and mine. I really thank everyone for their help. I am now leaning towards the Titanic MKIII 15".

 

[ironglen]

I'm sure you'll enjoy it, maybe not :hsd: but definitely:yay:

 

[Mike P.]

In the modeling the flared ports would be 23 inches long. They need to be one diameter away from any interior wall. If that isn't possible depending on your box dimension, then you'll have to use elbows to turn the ports.

 

[sub_crazy]

I don't know if you decided on a sub yet but madisound is selling off the ACI SV12's for $75 each.

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=8639

I just finished putting 2 of these in a 5.2 cubic foot sealed box driven by 1 channel of a QSC PLX2502 and they sound great.

I wasn't sure what to expect and got them mainly to make sub for a relative but I am picking up some more for myself.

The nice thing also is they are easy to drive as I estimate I am putting about 4 to 500 watts into both subs and they crank.

While not the equal of my Mal-X 18" or TC Sounds TC-3000 15" I could definitely live with this sub and the price is more than half the cost of those others.

Someone else I talked to gave me the idea when he went from a TC-2000 15" with a Crown XTi amp to a pair of the SV12's and ED plate amp in a 4 cu ft sealed enclosure and he raved about it.

With your budget you could do a pair easily or more. I personally like 2 or more subs as I am sure most do.

For ported it looks like your F3 is about 20hz in a 6 cu ft box.

 

[bja-fre]

I have two Dayton 10" HO subs powered by 300W BASH amps in my stereo and two 15" powered by OAudio 500W amps in my home theater, and they are more than capable to play both loud and deep enough for my standards. At the price, I recommend them as a good buy.
The XLS/XXLS are also very capable though.