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For DIY AT, Seymour AV is highly regarded (and made in Iowa), and Phifer Shearweave 4500. Woven seems to produce less Acoustic Problems with AT than perforated, and doesn't have quite the same possibility for moire problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
What would you suggest if I were to do the non AT screen route. I have looked at Seymour and it looks nice, as well if I remember they gave a good plan for making a frame for the screen. I'll look at Shearweave 4500. Seymour suggested putting the material at a 15 degree angle I think to reduce moireing?!?!? The builder is coming over tomorrow, maybe we can find 2 extra feet in the plan somewhere lol... we will see, gotta get that one past the wife :nono:
 

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Non AT recommendation would be the Black Widow paint mix found here on the Shack. I'd link, but it's hard to do on my mobile device. Maybe someone else can link for me, or just do a search for Black Widow and the official thread should pop up.
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Discussion Starter #24
Non AT recommendation would be the Black Widow paint mix found here on the Shack. I'd link, but it's hard to do on my mobile device. Maybe someone else can link for me, or just do a search for Black Widow and the official thread should pop up.
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Marshall thanks for the reply, I have a hard enough time texting on my phone, nevermind leaving a form post.

I found the thread, its seems simple enough. And he is out of the Auto Air Aluminum Fine lol till October. I'll look around town here to see if I can find it. As long as I ask for that, does it matter who makes it? I don't know if I will paint it directly on my back wall. I think it would look better if I bring if off the back wall and create a drywall screen raised away from the front wall? Is that how most people have done it, or do they just paint the wall and project it on that with a felt or other black border.

I really wanted to light up the speakers behind the AT screen, but I just don't have the room. I will hide them behind panels. Anybody have any luck still highlighting them with light behind black fabric or the like? Lemme know.

-NV
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Ok, I kept reading on and I get it, I don't paint the wall, I create a frame and paint some fabric/screen. I am not sure if the Black Widow post will give a suggestion of what type of material to paint, or do you have the option.

I assume this is the primer everybody is talking about. KILZ Oil based right? Humm in Canada I only see the Oil based Kilz and not the 2

Spend enough time and it all becomes clear: TaDA
 

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Discussion Starter #27
OK going with the 100 wide BW screen, If I want to make it a 2.4:1 screen and still be able to put on a 16:9 HD picture on it. What height would I go? I am using a Panny 4000 projector that has a constant height setting?

Would I just make the screen 100"/2.4 = 42"high? and then the 16:9 will fit to that? or do I make it

100/(16/9)=56.25 inches high?
 

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I'm unfamiliar with how the constant height works on the Panny. Does it use optical zoom to preserve pixel density, or does it simply scale the image.

Mast folks would say, if you can, go with a 2.35 screen to fit the widest of motion pictures. Then, use a masking system, even basic black curtains, to mask for 1.85, 1.77, or 1.3 sources.
 

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The only problem with side masking on an AT screen is that it puts your speakers behind the masking.

That's why personally, I prefer to get the 16:9 screen and then mask top and bottom.

Bryan
 

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Discussion Starter #30
The only problem with side masking on an AT screen is that it puts your speakers behind the masking.

That's why personally, I prefer to get the 16:9 screen and then mask top and bottom.

Bryan
Because I am short on depth for my room, I don't think I can go the AT route =c(. Its a shame because I really wanted to do it that way. 30" takes away to much and sits me to close to the screen and back wall.
 

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My bad. Thought you were going AT.

That said, you shouldn't let screen size drive seating location. If you need/want AT then put the seats where they need to go acoustically and size the screen accordingly. Setting screen size first is kinda backward IMO.

You have close to 18' to play with. I've done rooms with AT screens that size that had 2 rows of seating and they were in good places and not up against a wall.

Nothing wrong with non-AT certainly. Just making sure you're going through the right decision sequence.

Bryan

Bryan
 

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Discussion Starter #32
My bad. Thought you were going AT.

That said, you shouldn't let screen size drive seating location. If you need/want AT then put the seats where they need to go acoustically and size the screen accordingly. Setting screen size first is kinda backward IMO.

You have close to 18' to play with. I've done rooms with AT screens that size that had 2 rows of seating and they were in good places and not up against a wall.

Nothing wrong with non-AT certainly. Just making sure you're going through the right decision sequence.

Bryan
Ok Bryan,

I feel like a coin lol going between heads and tails. After chatting with you, I'm going back to the AT version. Its really what I wanted anyways, and I'll check out the screen widths to see if I can squeeze a bit more then the 100" width. I'll shoot for a 40deg viewing angle front row and see what it comes out as.

-NV
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I will post up the first live picture of my HT, there is still a bit of work to do, lots os ambient noise going on and the HVAC currently is a nightmare. I'm a few months away from having the build complete, but you can just start to see how it all will work out. :R

 

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Hi Brad

So are you actually currently building your house? If so, you might want to pay attention to the plumbing attached to the wall joining the theatre. It won't take much noise from the toilet flushing/refilling or faucets running to be a distraction - a rule of thumb is to avoid plumbing being attached to a wall of a sensitive space.

So if possible, reorient the bathroom so that plumbing is in another wall, if this is not possible you can do the following: If using copper piping, explain to the plumber that noise is of a concern and ask if they can pay attention to removing burrs left after cutting the piping, a good plumber should be doing this anyway. The second step is to isolate the framework when run through stud walls by mounting the pipe clips on felt or rubber pads. The sound of water flowing through the pipes is amplified by the plasterboard studwork, so avoid hard shorts where possible. The third step is choose a cistern float valve that is low-noise, one brand you can look at is Torbeck.

-Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Thanks Steely! I have talked with the builder and have asked him to route all drain pipes etc away from the ceiling of the HT. The HT does back onto the mechanical room. I hope it does not become to big of an issue. I can ask that all plumbing fixtures etc be located on the other side of the Mechanical room.

Brad.
 
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