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Discussion Starter #1
First of all, thank you so much for this site. My husband and I picked up a couple of RP tv's that had convergence issues, to replace our smaller tv's.
Since we live in the Orlando area, we went to Acme and the guy there, laughed at us, as we asked for some advice. He said that switching to 392-150's was actually down grade, so we just went with exact replacements. Acme was also out of 392-120's which we needed for the Phillips 46pp930217. so I ordered them online. We were able to solder in new IC's on the first one, with success, so I felt comfortable soldering in the 120's. When I put everything back together, the tv came on for a second, then turned off, like it was going into a protect mode. I checked the fuse by the power cable and checked continuity and that was fine. Since my husband is the one who initially took it apart and labeled everything, I'm not 100% sure I put everything back right. (hes out of town on a gig)
What could be causing this? I have scoured over this website and can't find anyone with a similar problem. I can't seem to find a schematic online either. Any advise is appreciated. Thanks!
 

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Read the first ten posts of the convergence repair sticky very carefully:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/for.../5600-crt-based-rptv-convergence-repairs.html

There are suggestions in the DIYRepair forum Stickies for where to find service manuals as well as vendors who sell them in the Vendor listing. I do not recommend proceding with any repair without having the proper manuals, which will show where the fuses and supply voltages are for the ICs.

There is information about what to consider if your repair is ineffective in post 9, IIRC.

If you got the idea that the STK392-150 is a good sub for the -120 here please point me to the post. That is clearly not the case and if someone suggested it or if the information is not clear on the matter, it needs to be corrected.

Each repair can have differences. Just because you have a problem does not mean that someone elses set will be identical. Step by step troubleshooting, however, is beyond the scope of the forum. There is a great deal of background information to help provide a context to troubleshoot and repair most common problems. There are some that are not trivial, however, and require skilled troubleshooting. It is also common for DIYers to miss something, which is why I refer you back to the detail in the sticky.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for your reply and for pointing me to a possible solution.
I don't see how I passed that info up. I'm going to try de soldering the IC's and run the tv without them, to see if the tv turns on. I'm going to be pretty mad if the IC's I ordered were bad (they said they were sanyo.) I'll keep you updated.
 

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Chances are that you missed a fuse in the power supply lines or missed a resistor, either of which can blow a chip quickly. Read and re-read that sticky and make sure that you cover everything mentioned. The reason that I wrote it is that people miss some very important checks all the time. Even very experienced tech do so. I blew a chip myself a couple of weeks ago because I missed an open fuse. I checked, but did not realize that one that I checked was for another supply. You have to check, double check, and triple check your work to be sure you cover everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, update. I checked all two fuses on the board. They were fine. 10 of the resistors are showing 4ohms, with continuity. Resistor #'s 3153-3154- aren't showing continuity. My issue/concern is these 2 seems to be very different in color coding to the other 10 which are identical 6.8 ohm, blue body with(blue/gray/gold/gold), the 2 bad ones are Tan body with Black/pink/white/brown/white/gold stripes. I don't know if these resistors only show continuity with load, or if they are bad. I can't really tell the colors, so the white may just be spacing, but I couldn't find the correct ohm value with a color code calculator. They don't look burnt, or anything.
I purchased stk392-120's from Liberty Electronics, which they stated were Sanyo. Before replacing the IC's, the tv turned on, with a very obvious convergence issue.
I de-soldered the ic's, repatched everything and tv turned on, no problem. I'm now wondering if they sent me bum ic's, or if I missed a resistor and blew it myself.
Thank you so much for your advice.
 

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I do not know the values for every resistor in every set. You need to refer to the service manual to see what the resistors values are, and follow the advice in the sticky very carefully. Liberty is not one of the vendors that I recommend.

As I said before, step by step troubleshooting is beyond the scope of this forum. There is lots of reference information for people who can figure out their problems on their own and professionals to service sets for those who cannot. There is even a discussion of the possibilities and likely causes if your repair attempt does not go as planned. If you follow the advice carefully, and still cannot resolve the problem, you may have something more than a trivial repair that the information here can provide help for and you may need to seek a professional for assistance. If you choose not to follow the advice given, you may complicate your repair further.
 
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