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Discussion Starter #181
I considered other methods, such as the track systems, or one where you staple to furring strips at the top, middle and bottom, then cover the middle one with chair rail. But I really liked the fabric frames look once I saw a few theaters with it, such as GPowers; and I wanted my panels to be removable, so I could tweak acoustic treatments if/when needed. Pretty sure the track system would be easier, has to be faster, building all the panels is fairly time consuming. I thought my approach would be significantly cheaper as well, but not so sure anymore, once you add up plywood, staples, liquid nails, brad nails, tools acquired along the way required to do it, etc. But as a bonus, I have some nice pneumatic tools now that I can use on future projects "for free".

Measuring and fitting wasn't too bad - not too many screwed up - had to spend some time with a belt sander to trim them up to allow for a good fit once the fabric was added (didn't know the thickness in advance).

All the big panels are removable - they are held in place by 6 speaker grill ball/socket connectors each. My panels are 1" deep and sit on 1/2" furring strips, for a 1.5" total depth; no acoustic treatments in place yet, still need to get a mic and preamp, and do full range REW measurements to determine how much absorption to add - planning either 1.5" 703 or 1" spaced 1/2" off the wall. Should I have gone deeper? Probably. Not too worried about it, it sounds pretty good already just with fabric and the bass trapping.
 

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The frame itself is made of roughly 1x4 hardwood; on the back of the hardwood are about 3/4" hollow square tubes, that are screwed into blind nuts in the hardwood - you loosen all the screws, and slip the fabric (tab cutouts) under the square tubing between the screws, pull to tension the fabric, then tighten the screws. Sort of like stretching fabric on a frame - start in the middle of each side and work your way outwards - but instead of staples, you just tighten the screws. It was quite easy really, took about 1/2 hour to tension, and worked perfectly first time, dead flat as far as I can tell.
That sounds like a very simple effective way of tensioning the fabric..Now I see the reason for the cut outs..
It sounds like that idea could be adapted for a DIY frame..:yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #183
That sounds like a very simple effective way of tensioning the fabric..Now I see the reason for the cut outs..
It sounds like that idea could be adapted for a DIY frame..:yes:
Yeah, I'm sure it could - but for the price I paid for the frame, and the time saved, DIY seemed a lot less appealing! I'm happy to move on to the next DIY thing. :T
 

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Thanks Brad, it sounds like you put a lot of thought (and work!) into your panels, and having them removable is a great idea. One of the reasons I thought the track system might be a plus is that if you ever spilled something or damaged a panel, it should be easy to replace the fabric, but you've got that covered as well.

I think you should be good with 1 1/2" depth for treatment, and somehow I doubt you'll use the full space in all your panels if you're measuring and adjusting. Actually, you could put in the perfect mix of absorption and diffusion panels, and they would all be hidden away. A couple of staggered DIY diffusion panels should be no problem for someone of your skill level, and might be helpful when you get to dialing in the room.
 

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Discussion Starter #185
Yesterday I finally got around to hanging the screen. I used a pair of 4' long piano hinges from Home Depot. Because the square metal tubing that stretches the fabric sits proud of the wood frame by 3/4", I first added 1 1/2" x 3/4" poplar under where the hinges go. The poplar strips connect to the poplar frame with 1.25" gold screws; the hinge is connected to the poplar strip with the dinky 1/2" long screws that came with the hinges; the other side of the hinge is connected with 1.25" gold screws to 2x3 cross bracing I added to the false wall. Those 1/2" screws seem a little iffy - but there are going into hardwood, and there are a LOT of them (about every 2 inches along the hinges), so hopefully it will be OK, as the screen isn't all that heavy.

I still haven't painted the vertical braces, you can see the reflection from the flash. I'll need to take one of them out, paint it, wait for it to dry, put it back, and then repeat for the second one - so the screen stays stretched. Or maybe I could make a temporary wood brace to keep it tensioned and work on both braces at once.

The faint circle on the left of the first pic is from the camera, not the screen material - tiny raindrop landed on the mirror when I was changing lenses during a holiday trip, and I haven't gotten around to cleaning it.

Here's the screen, under full light:



under low / screen wash light:



hinge detail:



reference screen shots:





more screen shots - 2.35:1:

























16:9








stretched 16:9 (zoom to widen, throw away some content on top and bottom) - I accidentally watched some 16:9 this way because the velvet frame eats light so effectively that I didn't notice I was overshooting quite a bit. Not bad depending on the content.

 

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Discussion Starter #187
Thanks Simon - I used a Canon Digital Rebel XT, set the ISO as low as it will go (100), put it on a tripod, and used the Program mode (which gave a fairly long exposure - anywhere between 1/3 and 2 seconds depending on how bright the scene was).

Edit: forgot to add, its the "kit" lens - 18-55 mm, f 3.5-5.6 - nothing fancy.
 

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I've read every post in this thread and I have to say, this is the absolute best diy ht build I have seen. Nice job. It's been a while since I've read the thread because it seems you didn't update it for a while. Didn't you pick up a used projector on the cheap? Which one was it and are you still using it. Everything looks perfect. I'm looking forward to more updates but it doesn't seem like you have too much more to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #190
I've read every post in this thread and I have to say, this is the absolute best diy ht build I have seen. Nice job. It's been a while since I've read the thread because it seems you didn't update it for a while. Didn't you pick up a used projector on the cheap? Which one was it and are you still using it. Everything looks perfect. I'm looking forward to more updates but it doesn't seem like you have too much more to do.
Thanks very much SP, you are too kind. I'm quite happy with how it has come out - here's how it used to look before I started:



The projector I bought and am still using is a JVC RS20 that I bought used locally - not really "on the cheap", but reasonable - $2500, with 600 hours on the original bulb, and with a free new replacement bulb.

I'm sure I'll have plenty of updates, there's always something to do, and I'm not exactly rushing along...especially since its so fun to just watch movies instead of actually working on it. :dumbcrazy:

Nice screenshots..The screen has come up a treat! :T
Thanks Prof! Kinda fun trying to find a suitable frame within a suitable scene that shows off color, contrast, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #193
Thanks guys!

Finally got around to watching Tron last night. Lots of fun, wow there's a ton of LFE content in it, and the surround effects are really nice, and some of the surround was more full range than the usual fare. I was only listening at like -15, and it had huge impact - can't imagine how people can watch at reference, -15 to -10 feels like the soffits are going to come down on my head.

Ordered a Behringer ECM8000 mic and Audio Buddy preamp, so I can take some full range measurements, and see where I am as far as acoustic treatments need.
 

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Awesome job man, im just starting a new one so gonna 'nick' a few ideas! Have you found the 12 inch step high enough for the back seats?
 

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Discussion Starter #197
Thanks ALM.

I haven't updated for a while because - well mostly because I've been watching movies instead of finishing the room! :nono::paddle::rolleyesno::whistling::hissyfit::huh:

I'm currently working on a second THT LP sub - the first one lays down horizontally, corner loaded into the left wall; the second will either shoot into the right wall or center, depending on what measures better. I hope to drag it into the room tonight, so I can hook it up, check for leaks, caulk any that I find, and then get it in place and test response tomorrow.

Edit: as I mentioned before, my screen is hung by piano hinges at the top - I'm a little tempted to put it a couple linear actuator motors to lift the screen for access - but the prices I've seen are $100+ each, not sure I want to invest that much just to have a whizbang screen lift when I need it, which shouldn't be all that often. I dunno - someone talk me into it! (or link me to somewhere I can get them cheaper!!)
 

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Thanks ALM.

I haven't updated for a while because - well mostly because I've been watching movies instead of finishing the room! :nono::paddle::rolleyesno::whistling::hissyfit::huh:

I'm currently working on a second THT LP sub - the first one lays down horizontally, corner loaded into the left wall; the second will either shoot into the right wall or center, depending on what measures better. I hope to drag it into the room tonight, so I can hook it up, check for leaks, caulk any that I find, and then get it in place and test response tomorrow.

Edit: as I mentioned before, my screen is hung by piano hinges at the top - I'm a little tempted to put it a couple linear actuator motors to lift the screen for access - but the prices I've seen are $100+ each, not sure I want to invest that much just to have a whizbang screen lift when I need it, which shouldn't be all that often. I dunno - someone talk me into it! (or link me to somewhere I can get them cheaper!!)
Hey Brad

While its not as fancy as actuators, I have seen a guy use the parts from a foldout clothes line. He lifts the screen up and it locks open so he can get in behind it

Motorised actuators would be cool though :devil:

Cheers
Simon
 
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