[inn8pwr]

Hi all,

Basic question likely. I have the Pioneer SD-643H5 64" Rear Projection TV that has markings stating HDTV Monitor. There is no HDMI connector. There is what appears to be a VGA connector on the rear of the set: above it it states, "RGB."

I'd like to hook up my PS3 and play blue ray at it's digital best. How close can I get?

AM I doomed to Analogue with this set?

Thanks for assistance,

Richard

 

[lcaillo]

Analog is not so bad. It is HD and this set will do 1080i. Use your component inputs.

Your set is capable of some pretty stunning performance if it is maintained and calibrated properly. At its age it could likely use a good cleaning of the optics and some calibration. Look up Bob Jones who is in CA (Mr. Bob). He specializes in getting the most out of these CRT based units. The difference with cleaning and tweaking it will be far greater than any possible difference between HDMI and Component, or 1080i and 1080p.

 

[inn8pwr]

Thanks for the reply.

Great information.

I have watched three Blue Ray films with the component inputs and have enjoyed what I believe to be noticeable difference. This is indeed what has prompted this "thread" concerning digital application. I was hoping that there may be yet "another" level of improvement possible out of this set in the form of digital connections. From your post, I gather there is not a digital signal enhancement connection possibility. Is this correct?

I have previously considered the "tune-up" you have suggested. I am currently not able to pursue such a fun solution financially. I prefer to be the DIY'er. I have the set because someone was throwing it out. I put it in the garage and eventually figured out how to fix it from solutions provided from this fine web site. I replaced the IC's and life is good. This leads to another question, "Is there a DIY'er tune-up reference for my set?"

Richard

Looks like I'm doomed to my current display.

 

[lcaillo]

No, there is no digital solution for your set.

I am working on the DIY reference.

Start by cleaning your optics. Look for Mr. Bob's thread on AVS and post here when you have more questions. It can be kind of hard to sort out the info, but the first step is to clean the lenses and the mirror. Get a copy of the service manual and read up on how to adjust the convergence. As I develop the stickies for the DIY tweaking reference that I am working on I would like your input regarding what is valuable and what is not.

 

[inn8pwr]

All this sounds good.

If you have the "Mr. Bob" link you're referring to, please include it in your next posting.

Next, I have limited time and am unable to get to this fun project for a while. Let's just say that every DIY'er has a honey-do list to fiddle with as well. And, frankly, this set is better than ever right now (with Blue Ray).

My "M.O." is "start to finish" fun. That is, research it to death, then "get 'er done." I found my IC's in a Hitatchi repair kit, practice soldered on old dead remotes, researched trim removal for days, then got busy. In other words, if I believe I have the data, I will start the project. I've started collecting the information for a tune-up already; I have the service manual.

Errrr, so yes. I'd be honored and have fun being the test DIY'er. Initial outline topics to consider: PHOTOS, cleaners to use, tools required, warnings (break mirror, slit wrist), correct trim removal. I wrote a trim removal piece for this set since the ones I found on the sites out there didn't quite get it. I don't know where it is, but it's likely in my history and you're welcome to it.

I suppose I'll be ready to tackle the Tune-up once I've got good data, time, and honey blessings.

Have a good night.

Richard

 

[lcaillo]

Ahh, the time factor...sort of like my DIY reference thread...

 

[rbartyczak]

inn8pwr,

I own a Pioneer SD-532HD5 rear projection TV (vintage 2001). It, too, is limited to component (i.e., analog) input with maximum resolution of 1080i. However, I found a device that will allow for a digital HDMI input to be added to your RPTV.

The device, HDFury2, also allows connection with the RGB DSUB15 input. The only drawback to using the RGB input is that you lose control over the color and tint control. It is still an HD, 1080i, input. You can find information about the HDFury2 device at www.CurtPalme.com.

About the advice to check out Mr. Bob on the AVS forum, I second that. I just sent my power supply board to him for repair. Apparently, Pioneer's soldering leaves a lot to be desired. Your SD-643H5 RPTV may soon need to be similarly repaired. The repair is required because the sets brightness increases and steps, then "pops" and will eventually cause the set to shut off. The thread on the AVS forum is definitely worth reading.

 

[lcaillo]

Let us know how the HD Fury works out.

I also repair these boards, and can often turn them around faster than Bob, particularly for people on the Eastern US. I don't advertise the service, and I recommend using him as a first option, but he does get backed up sometimes. In those cases, I can usually get them out pretty quickly.

 

[rbartyczak]

If I eventually get a blu-ray disk player (which is likely within the year), I might try the HDfury. Upconversion to 1080i sounds to good to miss. However, until then, I content with my DVD player and my DVDO IscanPro to upconvert to 480p.

I have already sent my PS board to Mr. Bob and am hoping to have it back before the Super Bowl. If not, then definitely before Daytona Speedweek and the 500!

 

[Mr Bob]

Wow, if somebody had alerted me to my presence on this thread, I woulda chimed in sooner!

Thanks Len, for recommending me.

I resolder all the x10 Elite PS boards - including the 532 and 642 non-Elite Pioneer HDreadys, and the x20 Elites - including the 533 and 643 non-Elite - PS boards that are vertically mounted. The final part of the x20 model year they redesigned an entirely new PS board and mounted it on the floor of the units and it has none of the cold solder joint problems of the x10 series, but for the first volley of that model year they used the old boards from the year before - the x10 series - all of which were badly soldered on the entire board. The solder flow op was incorrectly done, and years later solder joints started to go out on them right and left, eventually taking down boards downline from the PS board

These sophisticated units were never designed to be operated on hinky power supply boards, ONLY on rock solid ones. They have no defense against huge spikes being sent to them from connections that intermittently let go, in parts of the PS circuit. These spikes act like lightning bolts, damaging circuits downline. There are no surge suppressors or arc gaps to protect the rest of the set when the power supply circuit - which powers up 100% of the entire set - has gone renegade.

So if your set is experiencing any of this, STOP USING IT NOW. Don't play Russian Roulette with it.

:nono:

Send it to me, or in a pinch to Len. We will resolder it to within an inch of its life. On all pertinent connections, not just the ones that are bad now, which is what most local repair personnel do. We resolder 99% of that board, with the only exceptions to that being test points, heat sinks and anything that's already been redone on the board during original production, AFTER their botched solder flow op. Nothing less will do.

Once your set is working properly again, be in touch with me about further enhancements, which can deliver stunning HD to your present CRT set. It all starts with optics cleaning, which is ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL on CRT tech. That 30KV really does a number on your optics. 10 surfaces get trashed! You wanna know why your set looks bleary? It's NOT AGE! It's the optics. That's all! The static cling from the 30KV literally causes ALL airborn particulates to be sucked out of the air and onto your optics every minute the set is on. See my website for more information.

Your set is NOT old, even at this age. CRT just keeps going, and going, and going...

:T

Mr Bob

 

[Mr Bob]

Just to show what these sets are capable of -

This is from earlier this year: Screenshots from my recent out of town calibration, in Seattle, a Pioneer Elite 720 CRT.

Read more: Not all Pioneer connection problems are solder-related. - Home Theater Systems - Electronics and Forum - HomeTheaterShack http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...-solder-related.html#post212925#ixzz0Yv9fDVPy

 

[Mr Bob]

If I eventually get a blu-ray disk player (which is likely within the year), I might try the HDfury. Upconversion to 1080i sounds to good to miss. However, until then, I content with my DVD player and my DVDO IscanPro to upconvert to 480p.

I have already sent my PS board to Mr. Bob and am hoping to have it back before the Super Bowl. If not, then definitely before Daytona Speedweek and the 500!

Hey Ron, long time no see!

:wave:

The Fury II is incredible, I watched the SD version of Half Past Dead on it recently - the recent Steven Segall movie - and it was just incredible, upconverted to 1080i on my Panny BluRay player. Head and shoulders better than any upconverting player I have had before it, and also head and shoulders better than my Mitsubishi display's built-in HDMI circuit. I quite literally forgot it was not HD!

But it is only really needed for that upconversion. True HD from any source will look incredible on your component and RGB inputs, without any additives like the HDMI digital conversion - one extra way to stomp on your already perfect signal - and the Fury will not improve it. Straight thru component from your BDP is best on these CRT sets for true HD.

But it does allow for the 480i-1080i upconversion, which these days is ONLY available via HDMI. It will transcode the HDMI to component or RGB flawlessly, and wow you in the process.

:T

Mr Bob