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I have a 2003 52 inch Pioneer HDTV Projection television that will not turn on. The standby light just stays illuminated. What could this be, and what would the cost to fix this be.. Thanks for any help
 

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Your thread has been moved to the Pioneer forum in the Service and Support area.

Please post a model number and any more information that you can provide about your situation. More detail yields more specific suggestions, if they are possible.
 

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The model number is SD-533HD5 . Again I bough tthis in 2003 and the other day it would not turn back on. Just the red standby light stays lit. I am sure this uinit needs to be cleaned and calibrated too. Just trying to see if it is woth it to have all this done. The techs out here want $100.00 just to come out and look at it. Thanks
 

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Re: Was re:Don't Dump your CRT RPTV! Pioneer TV dead

Your 533 line set might be experiencing the same problems that the entire 532 line did, the year before it. Cold solder conn's on the PS board finally letting go because of a flawed solder flow op when manufactured. They used up whatever boards they still had around from the year before and then phased in a newly-designed PS board to be installed from that point on.

If your power supply - PS - board is vertically mounted to the bulkhead of the unit, it's from the year before and will eventually take your set down if left untended to, because of that hinky solder flow job. If you catch it in its early stages, having it resoldered will bring it back to permanently solid performance again. Both Len and I can do that job, but if you are a beginner to soldering, don't even think about doing it yourself. Too much can go wrong and too much is riding on it, for a novice solderer to even begin to think about taking that resoldering job on. Contact Len or myself and get it done right.

Do NOT allow most local techs at this job. They will resolder only the points that are bad now, and will not have any desire nor motivation to do any more. Awhile later - a month later, a year later - the rest of the solder joints that were not bad now will start to go bad and you'll be right back where you started. I see it all the time on boards that are sent to me. The owners had them "repaired" by local techs, and I see the half dozen or so re-solders on them, perfectly done. THOSE joints will never let go again. But it is a drop in the bucket compared to what really needs to happen if you want solid, flawless operations from then on, for ther rest of your set's life.

This board has to be handled with a SHOTGUN APPROACH, not a point source approach. The ENTIRE BOARD was poorly soldered in that original solder flow op, and with very little exception, the entire board needs to be resoldered.


If the PS board - just follow the power cord, it's at the end of it - is mounted on the floor, it's a completely different design, and if it has problems there's no real track record of how to handle it that I know of.

Let us know -


Mr Bob
 

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okay, will check it out tommorrow when I get home. If it is a verticly mounted one, do you have a price range for you to reapair it. Or Im guessing I could shop for a board online and just replace it.
Thanks..
 

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Watch it there Bob. I am one of those local techs, and I go through these things pretty thoroughly. Lots of us do. There ARE lots of yahoos that pretend to be technicians that do sloppy work, but don't assume that they all are.

There is a down side to suggesting that DIYers with little experience do extensive soldering. I have had two of these boards that I had to undo solder bridges on because a green DIYer read your advice on AVS.

This solder problem is not restricted to only this model. I have been working on Pioneer RPTV since they first came out and spent many years as an ASC and servicing them for a very active dealer. We always resoldered the "new" boards that came from them for warranty repairs to save having to go back and fix them later. I still won't start troubleshooting most Pioneers until cleaning up the sloppy solder. You would think that they would have figured it out after about 20 years.

This model often blows a fuse when the convergence ICs short, and also can blow a fuse when solder joints start breaking down, so check them as well.
 

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I would not replace that board. That was the board your set was originally set up on, and no board you replace it with will have exactly the same parameters.

I am advising all my PS board resolder clientele to KEEP that board, get it soldered properly like it was in the beginning before the conn's started to let go - they stayed totally solid for at least the first 3 years - and keep your set in its original condition. Who knows what high precision circuits downline from that board will be affected by the slightly different voltages and currents of a new board?

There's also the fact that at least on 1 occasion I have seen it reported that when Pioneer refurbs PS boards - there are no new ones, they died out a long time ago - they only do it the way local techs do, described above. And come up with problems later, when the rest of the untouched bad conns start to go bad.

My resoldered boards never go bad again. I make sure of that, and have literally dozens of them still making beautiful pictures for their owners, in the last few years.

I DK what the rules are for quoting $ on these boards, but my fee is less than $300, you do the shipping both ways. It's all in that email I'll send you. Be sure to mention that you learned about what I do here, on the HTShack Forum.

If you want to know more send me an email at the address in my sig. I have an emailout all ready to go with all the pertinent info - my address, how to send it, how to box it, what it costs, what insurance levels to use, etc. I'll get it right back to you as soon as I see that email requesting all that info.


b
 

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Ditto that. We never have had recalls on these boards once repaired properly. In general, when a board like this is repairable it is preferable to do so. Replacement can require alignment that is beyond the capability of many "techs" and certainly most DIYers who likely do not have the test equipment nor skill to deal with high voltage and deflection circuits.
 

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Watch it there Bob. I am one of those local techs, and I go through these things pretty thoroughly. Lots of us do. There ARE lots of yahoos that pretend to be technicians that do sloppy work, but don't assume that they all are.
Len, you and I both know you can do this job, and superlatively. I mention you specifically in my post:

Both Len and I can do that job,
Perhaps I shoulda said MOST local techs...I'll change that. I'll leave the owner to figure out whether HIS local tech will be good enough...

There is a down side to suggesting that DIYers with little experience do extensive soldering. I have had two of these boards that I had to undo solder bridges on because a green DIYer read your advice on AVS.
I cover that too, in my post, advice which is no different on the AVS or here or anywhere else today - tho in the beginning I may have not realized it needed to be shouted, and strongly, heading into this project 3 years ago:

but if you are a beginner to soldering, don't even think about doing it yourself. Too much can go wrong, and too much is riding on it, for a novice solderer to even begin to think about taking that resoldering job on. Contact Len or myself and get it done right.
I do allow for the fact that these are DIYer boards, and DIYers deserve their best shot. Many DIYers reading these boards HAVE totally corrected their problems on these boards by themselves.

Just not novices. Not on THIS operation...

:yikes:


This solder problem is not restricted to only this model. I have been working on Pioneer RPTV since they first came out and spent many years as an ASC and servicing them for a very active dealer. We always resoldered the "new" boards that came from them for warranty repairs to save having to go back and fix them later. I still won't start troubleshooting most Pioneers until cleaning up the sloppy solder. You would think that they would have figured it out after about 20 years.
I have found copious amounts of cold solder joints in the SD-P line, long before HD, and keep hearing about similar intermittents in the 200 model. Couldn't agree more.

This model often blows a fuse when the convergence ICs short, and also can blow a fuse when solder joints start breaking down, so check them as well.

Right. Again, couldn't agree more -

b
 

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I just like to be careful to qualify advice. People take things out of context, as you know. We certainly do have a problem in this industry with techs who do sloppy work and even just plain rip people off. My experience is that most markets have at least one who cares about the quality of his work, however, so I don't like to rip at techs in general too much without giving the other side.

I have found that you just have to be careful how you say things, and even if you come back with a qualifier, it is often the first and strongest statement that people get.

You and I are on the same page on nearly everything, as our many prior discussions will indicate. My point is simply that sweeping statements and generalizations can be dangerous when taken out of context. The folks that get in over their heads eat up more time than 10 others on forums like these.
 

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For those of you who don't know Bob, he is one of the most helpful tech/calibrator/CRT gurus on the web. I don't think it is a stretch to call him an evangalistic supporter of CRT based RPTV. He has helps hundreds tweak, repair and generally maximize what they get out of these sets, and has likely fixed and tweaked many more than that.

Bob and I bounce things off one another, and occassionally offer up a friendly professional jab, but make no mistake, I have the utmost respect for what he dones. Among the proliferation of vitriole and egomania on the internet, he is a refreshing voice for good sense and optimizing the performance of products that people actually live with. He has single handedly done more to keep TVs out of landfills than most tree hugging enviromentalists could dream of accomplishing.

We would love to see you here more than over at that other forum, Bob.
 

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Thanks, Len. It's nice to be loved!

:1eye:

I would spend more time here but don't have the time to search out what needs to be answered. If you want to scan around and send me links to things you think I might be able to help out on, feel free! It's always hard for me to resist "len"ding a hand -

:T


b
 

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