[evilskillit]

Best of luck, let us know how it works out. I tried to restore a pair of old Galaxy TS80s that had rotted surrounds on the 12" woofers and the passive radiators on the back had completely fallen off.

Never could get them to sound good. Knowing what I know now I probably could get something going, however I pulled the new 12s back out and put them in something else. At least it wasn't a total waste

 

[evilskillit]

Bleh to rope caulk. It works great but not if you ever want to get the drivers back out without destroying them or the box. I bought the Dayton BR-S1 kit, which came with rope caulk. After putting them together I wanted to double check the crossovers to make sure there were no problems, but even after shoving a broom handle through the back and pressing on the back of the driver about as hard as I dared to, I could not get it out. Fortunately I think I got everything right, after they broke in they sounded pretty good. But had I not I would probably be screwed.

On my next build I just put a small bead of silicon, smoothed it with my finger and let it dry, it made a nice rubbery seal. Weather stripping tape works well also from what I hear.

 

[evilskillit]

Silicon can, as it offgasses while curing from what I have heard, but if you put it on and give it a few days to cure I believe it becomes completely inert. I could be wrong tho, if so someone please correct me. Tho if that is the case I'm sure you could do the same thing with latex based caulk.

I like the idea of the closed cell foam but sometimes getting it to conform around the edge of a circular hole, especially a very small one can be a bit tricky. Also when you are trying to get speakers flush mounted and are trying to be very exact how does one take into account the extra thickness added by the closed cell foam making the speaker stick out of the hole just a hair more?