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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I originally posted in AVS forums (http://www.avsforum.com/t/1477768/first-diy-project-need-help-with-subwoofer-build) looking for suggestions for a sub that will fill my large room. I was thinking about offerings from HSU or PSA in the neighborhood of $700 – 1000.

Someone suggested a DIY option and I have since been going down the DIY rabbit hole. I have no confidence in myself to build a box but I have some confidence to assemble one of the flat packs from parts express.

The current scenario that I have landed on is the following: Dayton reference HO 18” driver in a 4 ft^3 sealed box combo offered at parts express, paired with the Behringer NU3000DSP amp. The 2 channels of the Behringer are a plus because I might add a second sub later.

My system is ~ 65% music with the rest home theater so I am looking for something that is tight, musical and articulate, not necessarily an SPL monster. With that said, is my above proposal a good option for the price? I don’t mind spending a little more ($750 – 800 total) if it will get me a better setup. At the same time, if a similarly price offering from HSU will outperform it then I’d just assume go with the prebuilt. I am considering the DIY to improve my bang for the buck.

I’d love to hear feedback. Please let me know if you have any questions. Thanks - Garth
 

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If you decide to build your own, (which might be a fun and rewarding project if you have the time), I'd look for some speaker design calculating freeware - or even an online calculator. (Sorry, I don't have any current recommendations, but I would think there would be something of this type available on the web.)

Heavy (dense) enclosure materials are important as well as heavy wires with good connections (correctly soldered ones on permanent connections). Dampening materials can be pretty cheap, too. Make sure your amp is rated for the impedance load of your driver(s).

Be careful about porting if you want tight accurate bass. You might want to go with a completely sealed design if that is what you're after. You might not get as much thump, but also not as much mud.

If you want really tight bass, one commonly overlooked specification of the amp is dampening factor. A high dampening factor goes a long way toward tight bass. (A few hundred is O.K. - over 1000 is great.) The dampening factor is the amp's ability to fight the driver's natural back EMF and keep control over a heavy speaker. Dampening factor can be wasted, though, if your wires are not heavy enough.

Hope it works out well for you - have fun!
 

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Well seeing your in the DIY section of the forum I wont be suggesting anything store bought.:D

The Dayton is a good value woofer as is the 18" from Stereo Integrity. Since you are wanting more of the use to be for music sealed would be my suggestion also. Inuke 3000 and a flat pack and your pretty set. What sub have you had before?

And what size is your room?
 

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As said a sealed sub for music. If your thinking of adding a 2nd sub then I would look at an NU6000 over the 3000, reason being I don't feel the 3000 can run 2 quality subs and get the best from them. In bridged mode 4 ohm yes it will run one quality sub with ease.
So an 6000DSP is a better option.

Personally I prefer sealed and have 2 acoustic elegance 15 and they sound awesome for music and films, I have had ported to but just prefer sealed.

I would look at the si ht 18 to.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using HT Shack
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys for your input. My plan is to go sealed especially if I diy. No tuning ports for me... too sophisticated. My room and adjoining open spaces is ~ 5900 ft^3. My current sub is a boston acoustics PV500 that I won't plan to use anymore with my new sub.

I read in one of the forums that the stereo Integrety 18" and the Dayton reference HO 18" model very similar. However, that doesn't tell one much about how they sound. If the spl and extension are similar, then I would like to go with the one that is better suited to music and tight bass. Is one superior to the other in this area?

scottehat, what makes you say that about the inuk 3000? have you heard it lagging in output when powering two subs? I was leaning in the 3000 direction because it was suggested to me as a good option for powering two of these Dayton 18" in 4 foot cubed box. Also, from what I understand, these drivers don't have "the best" power handling capabilities. Having said that, I'm not exactly sure what that means other than they can be overdriven with too much power... but I'm not sure if I'm interpreting what I read correctly.

so I get the impression that the setup I've proposed is reasonable and that there is not something obviously better out there for similar money. That being the case, I will have to start seriously thinking about the logistics of building these babies and what I will actually need to accomplish the project.

Thanks, Garth
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks Mike,

My understanding is that a lower Q indicates a tighter and quicker response of the woofer, somewhat analogous to a higher dampening factor of an amplifier. Is that correct? If so, then I would say that the Dayton in the 4 ft box is more desirable for my goal, agreed?

Thanks again
 
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