Ported 3.6cuft 12" to..4.3cuft 15" worth it??

chrapladm said:

Sufficient?

If you built another pair of the exact same subs you have you would gain 6db across the BW. SO if thats not enough you can use higher excursion drivers and you may gain around 8db more then what you have now. But seeing that your talking about going from 12's to 15's you will gain quite a bit.

As someone else mentioned you could build the Mini Marty also.

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chrapladm said:

DO you want to use a slot port, Or passive radiators or round ports?

PR's and slot port would be easiest. PR 's are the easiest but cost more. If tuning low, such as 22hz, you will need a long port length. You will probably end up with something closer to 4cuft after fitting in the port in the enclosure. Then it will be a matter of selecting the correct size to keep velocity of the air down.

Lots of variables but after you select your driver to use then you can go from there.

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randyc1 said:

As of now my amp is shutting down on very low hitting scenes when my vol is at -16. The Marty subs are a bit to big for my liking, ...20x24x24 is the biggest i would like to go which gives (6.67 cuft Exterior).

Wondering how low this ^ size box can be tuned with a 15" driver.

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EndersShadow said:

You could still use the mini marty design, you just will give up a few db. But honestly whats 4" in the scheme of things? The Mini Marty is a 24x24x24 cube. I am building my version downfiring so I am adding 3" to the bottom for legs.

Also you are aware that the 15" Stereo Integrity Drivers are dual 4 ohms, meaning you either need 600 wpc @ 8 ohms, or 600 wpc @ 2 ohms..... The 2 ohm load can be a bit hard for pro amps to drive and finding that much wattage @ 8 ohms is marvelous fun. Or you would just need one stereo amp per sub and run each VC to one of its 2 channels.

Personally I contacted them and purchased a unadvertised B-Stock 15" D2 which gives me a net of 4 ohms which. They may still have some of those lying around. When I bought mine a couple months back they had like 30 in stock I think...

Anyway good luck! I am hoping to get my Mini Marty built by the end of August!

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randyc1 said:

I will be building 4 D4 subs in total and use a Inuke 6000dsp,, (2 subs wired parallel) on each channel @4 ohm

Just need help modeling the 20W x24H x25D SUB with a Slot Port design for optimum Performance ?..should be around (4.4cuft) Net,after Port ,braces and driver.

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chrapladm said:

DO you want to use a slot port, Or passive radiators or round ports?

PR's and slot port would be easiest. PR 's are the easiest but cost more. If tuning low, such as 22hz, you will need a long port length. You will probably end up with something closer to 4cuft after fitting in the port in the enclosure. Then it will be a matter of selecting the correct size to keep velocity of the air down.

Lots of variables but after you select your driver to use then you can go from there.

Click to expand...

chrapladm said:

This is all dependent on the speakers Fs and other parameters.

Most car audio subwoofers can play just fine as a HT subwoofer with 30hz Fs. But they also have enough Xmax that they can take an LT circuit or loads of other EQ. SO preferably it would be nice to have a low Fs around 20hz for a HT driver but not a must have per say.

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