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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've read enough stories about MDF being notoriously hard to paint that I'm starting to get the jitters. Has anyone used Kilz primer? It comes in a variety of flavors and I've used it with good success on stained tables, etc.

If no one has given it a shot, I might try it on some scrap MDF to see if it will help seal it before I spray it (just bought a spray gun, because, well, just because! :) )
 

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I've not heard of it being used on MDF. Should be interesting!

I think that MDF is easy to paint - it's just sucks up a lot of paint if you don't prime it.

Kilz might be overkill - but should be totally effective.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've got a couple gallons of this stuff sitting around in the basement. I sent a note to Masterchem (they make Kilz) and I'll relay their response.
 

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Just use a high build / high solids primer on the mdf flat surfaces. On the cut edges, and to make uneven joints totally disappear under the paint, I use a tube of skim coat body filler (think really thinned down, single part bondo) It will spread down incredibly smooth and thin filling all imperfections before priming.

This is generally how I paint anything with spray cans.
1) Sand & prep best you can. (200g)
2) Fill and smooth out imperfections
3) sand smooth (200g)
4) prime (2 or 3 coats)
5) sand smooth (400g then 800g)
6) fill / prime / sand any spots that were missed
7) top coat (2-4 coats)
8) wet sand (1000g) (don't get bare mdf wet!)
9) final top coat
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Response from Masterchem:

Hello Mr. [MichiganMan],

Thank you for contacting Masterchem Industries.

We appreciate your looking to Kilz to fulfill your coating needs. For sealing your MDF surfaces, we would recommend the use of our Kilz Original oil-based primer. This product should be able to properly prime and seal your project and offers the versatility of being top-coated with a latex paint. Please note that as MDF can be fairly porous, two coats may be necessary to achieve optimal coverage.

If you have any further questions do not hesitate to contact myself or any customer care representative, we would be happy to assist you.

Regards,

Brian K

Web Communications
I think I'm going to try this on some scrap MDF before I finish my very firstest speaker project (I have the PE Tritrix kit sitting in my garage :) )
 

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I painted my recent build with Duratex, and have been very happy with both the appearance and the toughness. Just rolled it on. No priming.
 

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Kiltz takes forever to dry and is too thick for me.

I've had great success with MINWAX Sanding Sealer. It soaks in quickly and dries in a couple of hours. It sands very well and leaves a very smooth finish on MDF. With work, one can get a piano finish using this product.




 

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I painted my recent build with Duratex, and have been very happy with both the appearance and the toughness. Just rolled it on. No priming.
Glad to hear that someone used Duratex and was happy with it. Seems like it's not used on that many builds - and rather surprised. I would have thought that it would be very popular for people looking for a functional durable finish.
 

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At over $50/gallon (from www.acrytech.com), the price seems steep.
I thought so too - until I started looking at a number of other coatings, such as epoxy or truck bed liners as some have used. Those can get up to $100-$120 a gallon.

The cost is why I haven't gotten around to buying it yet (keep putting it off)... but I think unless you are painting or staining... not sure if there is any product cheaper than that - in terms of a durable coating.
 

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kilz is a great product. If you have it, alykyd or waterborne versions I would use it! you will gain nothing by using anything else....
 
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