[Audiodreamer]

In the WinISD program how do I go about choosing the right alignment?

 

[Mike P.]

It depends how much low end extension you want and the subs capabilities. Do you have a sub in mind?

 

[Audiodreamer]

This leads to another question. What makes one driver better than another. Here is one I was looking at because of freq range.http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-468

 

[avaserfi]

I don't recommend picking from the available alignments on WinISD. Sometimes they are an okay starting point, but often they aren't reasonable or optimal. Rather it is better to adjust the cabinet and/or radiator (port or passive) size to an optimal configuration manually. This allows one to maximize performance for a given application.

 

[Audiodreamer]

If I choose a 15" driver and I want to shake in my seat, but not necessarily tear my house apart would I want to port, and if so how many?

What makes one driver better than another, If freq range and power handling are the same?

 

[Mike P.]

What makes one driver better than another.

Usually higher priced subs have more Xmax so they will produce more output. The 15" Reference HF has a Fs of 18 hz which is good for producing the low frequencies required by a sub, compared to a sub with a Fs of 28 hz. Most subs are crossed oner at 80 hz so the 800 hz upper limit of the 15" Reference HF doesn't really matter for sub duty, unless you have other plans for it.

 

[Audiodreamer]

I agree. I am mainly concerned about getting the really earth shaking lows. Could this be accomplished with $600? Just checking, I wouldn't necessarily have to purchase everything in one day. Definitely new to the DIY, so any recommendations I could definitely use.

 

[Mike P.]

If I choose a 15" driver and I want to shake in my seat, but not necessarily tear my house apart would I want to port, and if so how many?

Using the same driver, porting will give you more low end output then a sealed cabinet

What makes one driver better than another, If freq range and power handling are the same?

How linear (accurate) the sub is and more Xmax (cone excursion) are the two biggest reasons.

I am mainly concerned about getting the really earth shaking lows. Could this be accomplished with $600?

That depends on the size of the room and how big a box you are willing to accept. "Earth shaking lows" for $600 usually means a large ported enclosure. How big is the room and is the room open to other areas?

 

[fredk]

Hi Mike. It looks like you are on your way to figuring things out.

If I remember from your other thread, your current sub is a 1' cube (tiny!) and you have it 1' out from the wall. You also felt you could go as high as 2'. Is there any way you could get away with a 2' cube in your space? Can you go any taller than 2'?

 

[Audiodreamer]

I think I would be hard pressed to get a two foot cube, at this time. This would be a big box. I currently have the sub on one side of my tv. It sounded about the same on one side as it did the other, during sub crawl. The side I choose put less objects between the sub and my seating position. For my 11'x 14' room this just seems too large. Possible 1.5'W x 1.5D x 2'H

 

[Audiodreamer]

My next question would be if it is best to have a down firing, or front firing? Is one better than another? If one went with smaller drivers could you have two in one cabinet and have the same impact? Just thinking.
Mike

 

[Mike P.]

I copied the above post and added it to your other thread. We'll continue on over there.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/15840-i-want-new-sub-one-does-what-should.html