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PT-53WX42F & PT-47WX42F Conv fixed, but does size really matter?!?

11002 Views 20 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Guardian
This site rocks with the quality of replies/help! I joined thanks to the mods and their great feedback and experience. I have read on-off for months, put away the project, and now back to it, going to either fix it or free some space up in my house. I have a problem of a different matter, that I can't find anyone else with.

Situation 1:
I originally got the PT-53WX42F from a guy at work, he gave it to me for free, he tired to fix it, and couldn't. The size is perfect, the screen is perfect, everything seemed fine, but had the 3 blinks. Figured I could read up and fix it. Never got around to it.

Situation 2:
A friend in the neighborhood said his TV died all of the sudden, and he was going flat screen, if I wanted the tv I could have it. Low and behold it's a PT-47WX42F! I figured it would be the exact same TV with a different case, and as far as I can tell it is the EXACT same insides. Ok, with 2 TV's, I am positive I can get one of them to work. You know I want to get the 53" working. The 47 unfortunately has bars on the left/right where something was left on pause, and created some kind of burn in.

Solution 1:
I ordered 4 STK chips to fix the convergence (Both units unfortunately had the same problem, so couldn't take those parts..). I read and read on what/how/etc. did the job myself, replaced all 4 at the same time. I hoped the resistors were ok, would replace those later if needed, the board is EASY to get in/out. Sucess!! I got the 47" working, picture came up, setup the convergence a little (was pretty good first time). It actually cut off a few times on me after watching for a while during burn in, but has become less and less frequent. I read that the IC's need time to burn in to the settings, I am not sure if this is true, but seems to be able to stay on any length of time now. But what blows, are the darkened shades on the left and right where someone left the picture on. If anyone can help me resolve that on the cheap please let me know!

Non-Solution 2:
Back to the 53", plug it in, turn it on, the tubes start glowing, I get a little excited, then "click" and it cuts off, still 3 blinks... LONG story short, I have swapped IC's, cleaned/soldered/resoldered, tested resistors, everything appears to be fine, but I can't get away from the 3 blinks.

Ok, EVERYTHING is the same right? Let me just swap the whole Video board as a troubleshooting method. I do, and bam, picture comes right up. VERY badly scewed, but it's a picture and no 3 blinks! Ok, I know for a fact the other vid board has a problem, can worry about that later, I just want to get the 53" working, and I may just trash the 47 since it has burn in..

This leads my long story (really sorry trying to give details) to the ultimate help I need from you all.. If your in Cary/NC and help me resolve this, beers are on me!

Question 1:
The video boards look identicle. I feel 95% sure I should be able to swap them between cabinets. The picture looks "OK", just needs to be converged using the proper settings. Without going into the service menu, if I just try to get the 2 convergence options in the normal menu setup correctly, I can move the crosses up/down/left/right no problem, BUT...the first convergence setting where you place the 1 single thin green mark centered on the plastic marks on the frame of the TV, they aren't stretched all the way out to the left/right, or Top/Bottom. This seems to be because it was setup in a 47". No problem? just let it go for now, and try to line up the R/B/G where it sits. Let the 53 look like a 47 for a while, just want to see if I can get the colors to line up. They line up pretty good, with a little bowing on the tips, a little off, but when you leave the convergence setup, you can tell the picture isn't that good in spots. But now the real problem. With the TV converged with normal menu, after it plays for a few minutes, it will cutoff and start blinking 3 times again.

Am I pushing the convergence chip too far? It will play fine all blurry, but when I try to clean it up on the 53" it cuts off. What can cause this?

If I put it back in the 47" and have it looking great there, it works fine. Put it back in 53" and it plays fine, but it's really off on conv..

I REALLY want to get this board working in the 53", is there any "default" settings I could input into the service menu to tell it it's now in a 53 instead of a 47? It's the same board. OR, any way to go to "Default/Factory" settings on this, so you can start from scratch?

Stopping there, if your still reading thank you very much, let me know your thoughts/suggestions, and I will provide more details if required.

Thanks, Brian.
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Hi MechMan,
Thanks for your reply. I can't seem to find the service manual now, but I know the 3 Blinks means IC/related issue. As mentioned, I have changed the IC's, and tested the resistors.

My concern/questions now aren't so much around the 3 blinks, or fixing the original bad board, but getting the 47" Video Board to work in the 53" case. When changing the settings on the convergence, it works for a bit, then shuts down. My initial thoughts are that I am pushing the IC's beyond their limits, and that's why it is shutting down, but it could be many other things. I am sure this board should work in the 53" cabinet, I just need some technical expertise to help show me how :)

Also, The green crosshairs that you initially line up is not stretched all the way out to the 53" cabinet edge to line it up perfect (obvious because it came out of a 47" setup). I don't know how to make this board/settings think that it belongs in a 53" cabinet.

Would be great if there was an easy "settings" list that I could punch in the service menu, to fit that size, instead of having to "eye" the lines up to center on Horiz/Vert.
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Hi Brian,

This is an interesting situation!

I would start by first confirming that the boards are indeed the same. There should be a part number somewhere on them, usually around the outter edges. Here's a (somewhat blurry, sorry about that!) pic of the number that was on a board I just recently worked on.

I think the number on your 47" should be TNP2AH035.

I'm wondering if they are indeed the same board because I just gave a link to a manual for the PT-47WX42F in another thread and it only lists 47" sets, doesn't list larger ones and usually they will if there's no other differences than larger screens, etc..

Here's the link. This manual is really clunky as it's html based and calls separate pdf files, but beggars can't be choosers! 8->


It appears the picture sizes can be adjusted in the service menu though dinking with it and trying to get everything back in perfect geometry again may be a daunting task.

I've never had any "burn in" time that I can think of. The sets do need to warm up for a bit before you convere them though. I usually do an autoconverge or a quick manual converge on them and then let them run for a few hours just to make sure everything is fine and then converge them properly. I've *never* had a repaired set shut down after the repair.

When you tested the resistors did you lift one leg up out of the board? You must do that to isolate it from other components in the circuit and get an accurate reading.

If you've swapped chips with confirmed good chips and the 53" still isn't happy then I would also wonder about the solder pads and traces on the board around the convergence ics - are any damaged? Maybe spend some time with the service manual and find some test points and use an ohm meter to verify all the pins of the stk chips are making contact with the parts of the circuit they are supposed to.

According to the 47" manual, three blinks is indeed a convergence problem - which again leads me to wonder about damaged traces on the convergence ics.

I know you want to get the 53" working, but again - I think diddling with the geometry may not be any fun so I would try to avoid that if I could.

Just a thought . . . if the sets are basically the same except for the screen size and if you put the working board into the 53" and then it works but thinks it's a 47" and doesn't fill the screen then maybe the easy way out here is to simply put the 47" projection chamber and screen over on the 53" cabinet? That would give you a working 47" without the image burnt crts.

I hope that helps some!

Keep us posted!!!



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Hi Brian,

I had a little quiet time tonight so I took a little closer look at the 47" service manual.

Since your 53" is dead and complaining about the convergence and you seem pretty sure of your soldering and the convergence resistors my next thought was that it sounded like you may not have power to the convergence amps.

Some boards have little pico fuses that look like resistors and they like to blow sometimes when the convergence amps go out.

Again, the manual sucks, some of it's text searchable and some is not, but fortunately the parts list is 8-> . I did a quick search for "FUSE" and came up with three - the big glass one by the a/c input and two others. They are referenced as R880 and R881 and are 4 amp 125v fuses.

I did a quick search to see where those two would be at and I found them in the D board schematics on page two of that section near transformer T801 AND they are on +20 and -20 volt feed lines . . . normally the convergence amps are fed off of 20 volt feed lines so I'm REALLY curious as to whether one or both of those fuses are blown!

If you get a chance see if you can locate and test those fuses and post back what you find.

Update - I took a quick look at the D board component layout. T802 is in the top left of the board. Find it and scroll down slowly, about half the way down you will find those two fuses -> they are clearly marked on the board so you shouldn't miss 'em. T801 is just up and to the left of them. You should be able to spot it easily on the board it's self.

I'm tired, I have my contacts out, and I'm tired of squinting at a schematic so it's time for bed! I hope my efforts pan out though - keep me posted! 8->


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Well crud, never mind . . . I just noticed that the fuses are on the D board and your convergence amps are on the A board, so if one A board works and the other doesn't then the fuses gotta be good.

Sorry about that, I just worked on a PT-53WX53G and it had the convergence amps over on the D board so that's what had me led astray a bit. 8-<

Now we're back to suspecting a bad solder joint or fuse.

Download the clunky manual, on page 15 of the main manual it shows the test points where you should check for voltage - that'll help us figure out if it's a power problem or what with the chips.

G'night . . . yes, I'm finally actually going to bed! 8->

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Thanks for the detailed response(s), this is the reason I joined this forum, look forward to the other valuable material when I get past this hurdle and have some more free time to paruse..(I am sure I didn't spell that right).

To try and answer some of your questions:

1. Model #'s. I was pretty sure, just verified they both are the EXACT same model board. Both state TNP2AH035 with a 1 and A circled even on both.

2. What a great last ditch effort, I can't believe I didn't think of that! Replace the whole 47" case over the 53" shell and have a near perfect picture at least for the 47". I would like to end up fixing the 53" board, but with the burn in somewhere on the 47"(is that on the tube itself? no easy repair their correct?), I would really like to get the 53" size working with the 47", it's amazing how much bigger it actually is than the 47".

3. Just for troubleshooting purposes, you got me thinking again about switching parts around. I just took the 47" board and put it back into the 47" TV. The convergence was WAY off, reset it all back to near perfect minus the service menu settings, just using the Conv 1 large crosshairs, and Conv 2 8 smaller cross hairs, and it's running perfect again. Hasn't cut off yet. Will let it run for a few hours to make sure there are no problems. Then I am going to put it back into the 53" and just turn it on, and not make one change. This would test everything "other" than the convergence chips in theory, and if it runs for hours, then I think it would mean that I am stretching the convergence chips beyond their effective range. maybe? :) Also, I don't think I let it "warm up" enough maybe before making any changes. If it runs for a few hours, then once I find the Service Manual or download the one you posted, I will try my hand at that again. If I find the manual I am going to post it in a single file for you guys to share going forward.

4. I am adding a screenshot at the bottom of this post of the 47" with the burn-in on the sides at the bottom. It's not the end of the world, but for me (who also has a 150" HD Projection theater dedicated room), it's pretty annoying trying to watch something and seeing those bars on the sides.

5. Resistor testing. This could be my downfall. I did not lift each leg :( (spanking in order). I just tested over the top of each resistor, understanding that I could get variances. the thing is, that the readings were exactly what they were suppose to be. 2.2 were reading exactly 2.2, 220's same thing, even the 82 ohm read exactly 82ohm. I tested EVERY resistor this way, I even ordered replacements in case I needed them (so I have them, just didn't want to use if I didn't need to), but with the readings on the mark, I couldn't justify to myself that one was bad. If it was, which one would it be? They all look good. Will take a screenshot of that as well and post below.

6. IC contact pads. One of the pads had lifted up, as my soldering iron from radio shack that you can't buy replacement tips for in the store (another aggrevating story) was a bit dull, and I take responsibility for the contact pad coming off :) The first time I replaced the IC, I made a clean bridge from the leg to the contact point off the pad. Since I have had problems, I have replaced the IC's quite a few times, switching them around (I bought 4 new IC's. 2 fixed the 47", I wasn't going to unsolder those, and risk messing that one up)and testing my solder points. The second time, I removed the pad, cleaned it up a bit, and just created a jumper wire (RJ45 wire) from the leg of the IC to the next open trace point on the board which is the leg of one of the resistors. I tested prior to installing and after installing that the path was made, so I don't think there is an issue there. All of that said, there could still be a problem with 1. The IC's bad 2. Resistors 3. Shorting somewhere, or 4. something else on the board I can't detect not working correctly. this is my biggest worry. Will put a picture of this as well.

Picture 1/2: Showing Screen Burn-In on 47"


Picture 3: Bottom of 53" board showing trace re-route

Picture 4: Top of 53" board showing all resistors looking good (tested good without lifting leg, that's next step I suppose)
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It won't let me post links until I have 5 posts :(
I tried to use Insert Image, but it's not showing the pictures.
I guess this is post 4, Mod, can you delete this and the next post, so I can keep the thread clean? But I need 5 posts, and don't want to blow smoke up some other post with (good job!, or Great Pic! :))

I don't see where I can delete this post myself :(
Post #5, I can post pics now! Ok, going to edit my last email and add the links to the pictures (5Meg each, but shows more detail).
Mod, sorry to post like this, please delete. Know it's not the correct process, but I am suppose to be doing work right now, and not this :yikes:
Hi Brian,

You're welcome - though I'm nothing more than a rank amateur, I enjoy working on these and it's fun to collaberate with someone with the same interest.

*) Glad to hear the boards are the same model. It must be storing the convergence, picture size, etc. info on that board which is why that info is traveling with it. I would imagine you could adjust these items in the service menu. Before you change anything in the service menu make sure you write down what the original values were and keep that info safe. Still, it may not be much fun getting the geometry correct. My son and I changed the CRT fluid in a Magnavox once and we had to take the crts out and then had to diddle with them to get things back right -> it sucked, I'm just not a patient person! So I try to avoid Philips/Magnavoxs these days (though we did just fix a very nice one last weekend).

*) Glad to see you liked the moving the projection chamber idea - not the most elegant solution but it's probably work and I'd rather move the projection chamber than the crts as after moving them you'd probably have to diddle with the geometry (though maybe not, if you take them out as a complete unit in the rack it may not be so bad, I dunno - I've never done it).

*) Yes, inches do make a difference! I would prefer the 53" over the 47" also.

*) The manual I posted a link to is clunky but it does work. An all in one pdf would be nice though. Unfortunately you can't post large files here - which is why I always give links. If you find one upload it to techlore and then link to it.

*) Yeah, that screen burn on the edges would annoy me too!

*) The resistor testing should be OK. It's just good general practice to lift one side but looking at the schematic it looks like nothing is paralleled with them so they should test OK in circuit. I'm posting a couple snips from the service manual showing the convergence ics and the related components - I'd be tempted to test the 3.3k resistors too.

*) The lifted IC contact pad concerns me. You were getting a lot of heat on the board to do that so it makes me wonder about the rest. Again, I posted a snip of the convergence IC circuit so look it over and maybe run some continuity tests between the chip legs and what they are supposed to connect to.

My thoughts are let's fix the 53" board as then we don't have to mess around changing a bunch of stuff in the service menu. I'm really thinking it's a damaged circuit board trace or an overlooked burnt component and I think with a little troubleshooting we should be able to narrow it down.

The 47" - sell that board on eBay for enough to pay for your chips you bought so the tv ends up being truly free! :D

Now, that being said . . . keep a good head on your shoulders here. You've gotten TWO of these for free! There are more out there! I usually pick them up for free to $50, more free than anything. It's a broken tv, it's not a slam dunk to fix them or everyone would be, and they are heavy and a pain to haul and most landfills charge you to take them so you're actually doing someone a favor taking it off their hands -> don't lose sight of that fact! If you want a big screen and these get too involved then just rip your chips out of them, junk them, and find another on CraigsList <- 3rd time is a charm! :D

I admire your persistance though and I really hope we get this figured out for ya! At the very least I'm sure you can end up with a 47" out of the deal.




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Leonard has commented that most sets will fire up without the convergence chips isntalled. The convergence will of course be off, but it should tell you if it's a chip problem or something else.

I dunno if this is one of them or not, but maybe give it shot?

Before that though, I'd grab the manual and find a couple test points for the 18v going to the convergence chips and confirm that is there.


Hi All,
Sorry for the delay, weekends are tough to get any personal time, now that I am back, can dedicate some more time to getting this going.

Few updates:
1. I have downloaded all of the 22 files painstakingly and zipped them all together and posted them on my website for now. Please put them wherever you think they fit best, and we can edit the post to show a new location for any new people looking for a service menu. I really think Panasonic should just offer this on their site cleanly..

2. The last update I said I would put the 47" board back into the 47" cabinet, get it working perfect again, then switch it back. I have done this, and after putting it in the 53" cabinet, it has ran for 8+ hours playing a DVD over and over no problem whatsoever.

So this clarifies everything "Other" than the Video board correct? If there were any problems with anything else in the TV, it would just shutoff. But with the convergence set perfectly for a 47" on the 47" board, the TV runs great, but blurry as hell :)

3. So this leaves me with a few thoughts, and I would like to get some others feedback here.
a. When I converge (using basic settings, not Service Menu) the picture to look correct, the TV was shutting off. I didn't give it ample time to warm up, so I could try that, but it still wouldn't fix the stretch issue that needs to happen from within the service menu.

b. It could possibly be the convergence IC's that I put into the board can't handle the strain of tweaking from 47 to 53 size? This is what I would like feedback on. I hear all the complaints of "you get what you pay for..." But I just don't buy it personally. I have heard this for everything electronics, and usually it's posted from the ones who have something to lose (revenue), or also had some other problems (solder bridges, incorrectly installed, etc), but if I was just using these $10 parts in the 47" and left it at that they would be running fine. Does anyone think the "cheaper" $10 IC could be limited in it's ability to handle more power/heat of what a 53 setting could be putting on it? I am not even sure that makes a true difference in power/heat, just trying to figure it out by process of elimination.

c. Now that I have a Service Manual back, I can easily write down settings that have a beginning/changed value, but there are some like Horiz/Vert stretching that I will need to do, that I don't believe have a set value, so if I start making changes, I may never be able to get this back to near perfect for the 47"

I am in the process next of looking over the 53" board to see any problems, other than the pad (which I think I have bypassed successfully, I am not sure what else could be wrong with it (other than just getting new IC's again and trying again). Would really like to get this board working to avoid all the changes to the 47" board to work with the 53". Will try cleaning and putting in the brand new IC's again, with the wire jumper on the one pad and see if that works.

Thanks, Brian.
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Hi Brian,

Thanks for the update! I completely understand the lack of personal time!

Yeah, the manual is a booger, isn't it. A nice all in one pdf would be nice but oh well, this one works.

It sounds like the 47" board is running solid enough.

I haven't read the manual, but from what I've read in manuals for other sets it seems geometry can be a pain so I've been glad I haven't had to go there. If you can save the original values then you should be ok, but if there aren't values to save then it could be a booger.

The convergence ics should be able to handle the normal load but with the geometry out of whack they may be working overtime trying to pull everything back into spec. If you converge it for the 53 and it starts shutting down does it continue to shut down if you put it back in the 47" with the 53" convergence profile?

I DO buy the fact that you get what you pay for when it comes to convergence chips. I've simply seen waaay too many posts where people have put the time and effort in and used cheap chips and then asked for advice and after they replaced them the sets worked perfectly. Also, I recently bought some components (resistors, caps, diodes, etc.) off fleaBay just so I'd have some inventory to draw on while I diddle around with electronics (I've picked up a copy of Forrest Mims's book Understand Electronics and plan on working through the 100 example circuits given) and I tossed them once they arrived - the leads on them are as thin as a human hair and extremely flexible, the resistors may be marked 5% tolerance but many were way out of spec, etc.. Just junk . . .

That being said, there are a couple vendors selling convergence ics on fleaBay that have outstanding feedback ratings. One would think if their stuff didn't work it would be reflected in their feedback ratings so it makes me wonder. That coupled with the fact that one of my favorite trusted suppliers, Acme in Orlando Florida, is now carrying a STK392-570 chip that they readily admit comes from China but they guarantee for 90 days and claim that they have tested extensively and have found them to be as good as original really makes me wonder. Evidently there's at least one factory in China that knows how to make these chips correctly and I wonder if the couple vendors on fleaBay haven't found the same one Acme has? I dunno, I'm saving so much doing the work myself and usually the difference in cost is only $20 or so. That and the fact that the repairs I've been doing have been for family and friends and I don't wont call backs has kept me from letting the Jack Benny in me loose. My son and I recently picked up a freebie Philips that we really have no use for (it may end up in my basement since it has a cable qam tuner in it, or it may end up being a gaming set for my son - we haven't decided yet) so I planned on using some cheap chips in it just to see but then my son decided he wanted to be the lead worker on it and since he's not overly experienced in electronics I decided I didn't want to introduce another variable so I sprung for chips from Acme for it. The next set I do though I may use as a test bed set - unless it's not for me personally, in that case I'll spring for Acme chips again as I really don't want to risk callbacks.

I would spend a little time with the 53" board yet and try to recover it. Use the schematic to find test points on the board so you can do continuity checks with an ohm meter from the stk chip leg to whatever it hooks up to - that should confirm your soldering and whether any pads are damaged or not. Next I'd test for voltage to the chips - the manual shows you the test points. Do those two things first, if nothing turns up post back and we'll dig deeper.

I do also suspect the stks if they aren't from a trusted supplier. I know it's a pain, but maybe pull the known good stks out of the 47" board and try them in the 53"? That's the no bucks approach, but it takes time and I know how it is to be short of time!

Keep us posted!

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Based on your response/Leonard's comment about running with no IC's, I pulled both IC's, and tried the 53" A-board, and it still turns off within about 5 seconds ( from behind I can see the tubes warming up, but before showing anything on screen), with the 3 blinks. Think I am ready to call it quits on this board. The resistors all test fine (without removing a leg), I couldn't find the best test point for the 3.3k resistors, was going to try that as well, but not following the service manual clearly enough to know the exact test points for those.

So I am going to attempt to use the service menu to adjust the 47" board to fit the demensions of the 53" case. Wish me luck, hopefully if I can get the Vert/Horiz stretched out to the edges, and they are straight, I can get the rest lined up.

If I get this working and trash the 47" case, what should I keep from it if anything? Was thinking of letting someone on CL take it with everything and see if they can fix the board, or salvage backup parts for the 53 and just trash the 47 case, etc.
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If you would like you could send me the board and I'd be happy to give it a once over - new eyes sometimes spot things old ones miss, drop me a pm if you'd want to do that. (and I'm conveniently on vacation starting this Friday! 8-> )

Since the service manual specifically says three blinks is convergence (not problems on the 20 volt supply, etc.) this set may actually sense if the convergence ICs are in and running correctly so I'm not so sure I'd give up just yet . . .

Else, I'm with ya - these old rear projections are not that hard to find on CraigsList, etc. so it's not worth a ton of time to chase gremlins and 50 to 57" sets are pretty easy to find so I can see why one wouldn't want to settle for a measley 47! LOL! Even the occasional 65" shows up (bring two men and a boy if you ever have to move a 65" Mitsubishi!!!) if your patient.

Soooo, going for the retune of the 47" is probably a route I'd take too.

Keep us posted . . . oh, by the way, if you get one running you will soon become the "big screen guy" for your friends and relatives! And you may, like me, develop a sickness and start working on them for a hobby!!!


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Agree, think it's not even worth the postage at this point. Thanks so much for the offer, but like you said, I think it's not worth it. Plus as I mess with the service menu settings on this 47" board in the 53" Cabinet, I am really thinking I can get this thing running good. It hasn't cut off on me yet, and is making all of the changes I try (though I am having trouble with a few things, will comment below on).

So concentrating on getting the Service menu to work for me, here is where I am so far..

1. Able to get into Service Menu. :) Yay! :) FYI, for anyone following this thread, it's very simple, I think people mess up reading the manual when it's time to press the key on TV. So here are the steps to easily get the service menu up on this unit:
On Remote: press action to bring up setup. Make sure you have Cable mode selected. Go to Timer option, and make it 30 minutes. Hit Action three times to get out of setup completely. Go to Channel 124. Turn your volume all the way to 0.
On TV: press the volume DOWN button. You will see some text at the top of the screen. The TV is now in Service Mode.
On Remote: Press Power. This will bring up all of the service options.
Hopefully that helps a few people that were having trouble with the service menu. Now back to my problem :)

2. In the Service Manual (The one we have been discussing is for PT-47WX52F and it's vaiants. On page 38 of the service manual (47wx_01.pdf from my above link) it provides all of the "Default" settings. This is great, I am sure if I had checked this before, the picture would have been great in the 47" cabinet. But now I am in a 53" cabinit...Shucks. Now I REALLY need to find the service manual for PT-53WX42F thinking I could just use the default settings that are listed in that, and may fix most of my Horiz/Vert issues.. If you use Torrents, there appears to be a torrent of the SM here: http://www.fulldls.com/torrents/pt-53wx42f-service-manual But I don't use torrents.

3. After printing off these pages, and setting everything to default as a 47", the picture is of course pretty off. I had a small hope it would look perfect but only on 47" of the screen, but it doesn't work that way unfortunately. I started making a few changes to the ones I felt comfortable with, and was able to pull in the center area to almost perfection. If I exit out of the service menu, I can see the picture and it looks beautiful! but only in about a 8x8 section of the middle of the screen. This is where it gets complicated for me personally.

4. I have found that there are a lot of settings to change, but most are for all of the picture, I am not seeing specific sections of the screen to be able to change. So right now, as mentioned can get center good, but with the "Bow" effect from Bottom/Top and some from Left/Right (but not as bad), I am not sure what to do next. I have just "tested" settings going up and down the range to see what it effects, and not getting a flatening of the bow effect. I think this is where someone familiar with these settings could be done in 10 minutes probably, but trial and error is taking a while as you said steve. My next steps are to start googling the differences in Coarse/Fine adjustments, Horz/Vert Parabola, Vert SAW, but since I am not seeing much change in them, will see.

5. Lastly, when pulling up the color grid boxes, I feel sure there is a way here to move the outside areas of the screen, I just am not sure how yet. Like in the "Basic Convergence" where you have all the little crosses, I shouldn't need to use that because I am in the service menu right? I wouldn't think I would have to get everything set in service, then go make adjustments to the basic? Even if I did, I think I am getting some "slightly tilted" crosses on a few spots where the picture is still bowing.

I have a video camera setup and it's pointing at the TV in my home office(normally pointed at me for work meetings). Would you be up for a Teleconfrence? If so I can setup a WebEx/Skype, and we can chat real time, and you can see the TV as I make adjustments to it. Offer open to anyone comfortable with Service Menu settings, send me a PM with your email address, and time you want to chat if so, and I will send an invite.

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Hi Brian,

I'm intrigued by the offer of the teleconference but I've never done that and don't have a web cam. On top of it our son is back on pre-deployment leave so we're spending time with him so I'm not really up to the learning curve of teleconferencing.

I scanned your note, it sounds like you're on your way. I think part of the problem with not having a perfect 47" screen in the middle of the 53" is due to the throw of the cabinet so I'm not overly concerned, I think you should be able to fine tune it in.

I don't torrent either, but I hope someone else does if there is a 53" specific sm out there.

Best get, ttyl,

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Hi Steve,
Glad to hear your son's home and hopefully in good shape!

Haven't gotten any further, need to sit down with the service manual some more to figure out how to move areas outside of the center marks within the service menu. I think that's all I need to figure out, and can get this thing running near perfect.

FYI, if you do get time, you don't have to do anything on your side, no camera or technology to learn :) I just send you a link and you can connect to my meeting, it will call your home phone, and I will be sharing video so you can see the TV in action.

If your up for it anytime soon, send me a PM with your email address and what times are good and I would like to chat with you.

In the meantime I will keep working on trying to find a 53" manual and messing in the service menu.
Thanks, Brian.
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Hi Brian,

Sounds intriguing - and easy (and we like easy!).

I'll drop ya a pm. I'll have to fit it in with my new project . . . a 65" Sony I just picked up for free!

Take care,

So I messed, and messed, and messed, and then… I got the 53" with the 47" motherboard looking better for the moment. It’s a step in the right direction at least. I don't think 47/53 has anything to do with it any longer...

So here is what I think the issue is/has been..

Those basic convergence settings (cross hairs) ARE linked to the service menu settings. (Some of them at least).
But the Mute (seems to just enable/disable digital convergence), Course, and Fine settings stand on their own and have nothing at all to do with the convergence OR the Service Menu settings. You really have to understand this, because I thought for everything I set in the Course, was changing the settings in the service menu like VSIZE (Vertical Size) which makes absolutely no sense to me at this point, but…

The first time tonight, I set all of the default service menu settings to the 47” service manual, most don’t matter, colors, etc..
I went into the Course setting, and all I have heard is that I need to focus on GREEN first. So I stretched green out as far as it would go (it would say END, and I wouldn’t be able to tweak it further, but it was very close, so I left it there). I tried to get the Green as perfect of a rectangle box as I could, and filling the screen as much as I could. This led me down the wrong path I believe, because with it stretched all the way out, the bottom left corner had this strange wave in it. I figured if the Red/Blue matched it, I could tweak it in the convergence settings. At the end of those hours of going through all of the course settings, I couldn’t get the red to match green at all..

So I decided to start over and try a different approach. I noticed that the default setting for VSIZE for some ungodly reason is 00. This is the smallest sideways hourglass shape picture the tv will do. So I figured ok, must be that way for a reason. Let me configure the green lines in course to fit within those parameters and not stretch it out. This actually worked! For a nice looking hour glass picture in the tv.. When I was finally done and my fingers were killing me from all the back and forth settings for green, then for red, then repeat for blue, and trying to get them to all line up after each change moved something else. So it looks great! But now when I go into the service menu to stretch the picture out with VSIZE, the colors all start to spread out  So I have to start all over again.

So this time I *think* that I need to figure out what the exact VSIZE needs to be for the 53” case. Set that. Then go in and start with course, and do it all again at a bigger footprint image for green, red, blue. If this works, and I don’t run into boundary issues with the stretching I think I may be able to get this unit to work soon…
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