Do you have the service manual? What does it say about the three blinks?
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Hi MechMan,
Thanks for your reply. I can't seem to find the service manual now, but I know the 3 Blinks means IC/related issue. As mentioned, I have changed the IC's, and tested the resistors.
My concern/questions now aren't so much around the 3 blinks, or fixing the original bad board, but getting the 47" Video Board to work in the 53" case. When changing the settings on the convergence, it works for a bit, then shuts down. My initial thoughts are that I am pushing the IC's beyond their limits, and that's why it is shutting down, but it could be many other things. I am sure this board should work in the 53" cabinet, I just need some technical expertise to help show me how
Also, The green crosshairs that you initially line up is not stretched all the way out to the 53" cabinet edge to line it up perfect (obvious because it came out of a 47" setup). I don't know how to make this board/settings think that it belongs in a 53" cabinet.
Would be great if there was an easy "settings" list that I could punch in the service menu, to fit that size, instead of having to "eye" the lines up to center on Horiz/Vert.
Thanks for your reply. I can't seem to find the service manual now, but I know the 3 Blinks means IC/related issue. As mentioned, I have changed the IC's, and tested the resistors.
My concern/questions now aren't so much around the 3 blinks, or fixing the original bad board, but getting the 47" Video Board to work in the 53" case. When changing the settings on the convergence, it works for a bit, then shuts down. My initial thoughts are that I am pushing the IC's beyond their limits, and that's why it is shutting down, but it could be many other things. I am sure this board should work in the 53" cabinet, I just need some technical expertise to help show me how
Also, The green crosshairs that you initially line up is not stretched all the way out to the 53" cabinet edge to line it up perfect (obvious because it came out of a 47" setup). I don't know how to make this board/settings think that it belongs in a 53" cabinet.
Would be great if there was an easy "settings" list that I could punch in the service menu, to fit that size, instead of having to "eye" the lines up to center on Horiz/Vert.
Hi Brian,
This is an interesting situation!
I would start by first confirming that the boards are indeed the same. There should be a part number somewhere on them, usually around the outter edges. Here's a (somewhat blurry, sorry about that!) pic of the number that was on a board I just recently worked on.
I think the number on your 47" should be TNP2AH035.
I'm wondering if they are indeed the same board because I just gave a link to a manual for the PT-47WX42F in another thread and it only lists 47" sets, doesn't list larger ones and usually they will if there's no other differences than larger screens, etc..
Here's the link. This manual is really clunky as it's html based and calls separate pdf files, but beggars can't be choosers! 8->
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/download.php?fileid=30389
It appears the picture sizes can be adjusted in the service menu though dinking with it and trying to get everything back in perfect geometry again may be a daunting task.
I've never had any "burn in" time that I can think of. The sets do need to warm up for a bit before you convere them though. I usually do an autoconverge or a quick manual converge on them and then let them run for a few hours just to make sure everything is fine and then converge them properly. I've *never* had a repaired set shut down after the repair.
When you tested the resistors did you lift one leg up out of the board? You must do that to isolate it from other components in the circuit and get an accurate reading.
If you've swapped chips with confirmed good chips and the 53" still isn't happy then I would also wonder about the solder pads and traces on the board around the convergence ics - are any damaged? Maybe spend some time with the service manual and find some test points and use an ohm meter to verify all the pins of the stk chips are making contact with the parts of the circuit they are supposed to.
According to the 47" manual, three blinks is indeed a convergence problem - which again leads me to wonder about damaged traces on the convergence ics.
I know you want to get the 53" working, but again - I think diddling with the geometry may not be any fun so I would try to avoid that if I could.
Just a thought . . . if the sets are basically the same except for the screen size and if you put the working board into the 53" and then it works but thinks it's a 47" and doesn't fill the screen then maybe the easy way out here is to simply put the 47" projection chamber and screen over on the 53" cabinet? That would give you a working 47" without the image burnt crts.
I hope that helps some!
Keep us posted!!!
Steve
This is an interesting situation!
I would start by first confirming that the boards are indeed the same. There should be a part number somewhere on them, usually around the outter edges. Here's a (somewhat blurry, sorry about that!) pic of the number that was on a board I just recently worked on.
I think the number on your 47" should be TNP2AH035.
I'm wondering if they are indeed the same board because I just gave a link to a manual for the PT-47WX42F in another thread and it only lists 47" sets, doesn't list larger ones and usually they will if there's no other differences than larger screens, etc..
Here's the link. This manual is really clunky as it's html based and calls separate pdf files, but beggars can't be choosers! 8->
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/download.php?fileid=30389
It appears the picture sizes can be adjusted in the service menu though dinking with it and trying to get everything back in perfect geometry again may be a daunting task.
I've never had any "burn in" time that I can think of. The sets do need to warm up for a bit before you convere them though. I usually do an autoconverge or a quick manual converge on them and then let them run for a few hours just to make sure everything is fine and then converge them properly. I've *never* had a repaired set shut down after the repair.
When you tested the resistors did you lift one leg up out of the board? You must do that to isolate it from other components in the circuit and get an accurate reading.
If you've swapped chips with confirmed good chips and the 53" still isn't happy then I would also wonder about the solder pads and traces on the board around the convergence ics - are any damaged? Maybe spend some time with the service manual and find some test points and use an ohm meter to verify all the pins of the stk chips are making contact with the parts of the circuit they are supposed to.
According to the 47" manual, three blinks is indeed a convergence problem - which again leads me to wonder about damaged traces on the convergence ics.
I know you want to get the 53" working, but again - I think diddling with the geometry may not be any fun so I would try to avoid that if I could.
Just a thought . . . if the sets are basically the same except for the screen size and if you put the working board into the 53" and then it works but thinks it's a 47" and doesn't fill the screen then maybe the easy way out here is to simply put the 47" projection chamber and screen over on the 53" cabinet? That would give you a working 47" without the image burnt crts.
I hope that helps some!
Keep us posted!!!
Steve
Attachments
Steve!
Thanks for the detailed response(s), this is the reason I joined this forum, look forward to the other valuable material when I get past this hurdle and have some more free time to paruse..(I am sure I didn't spell that right).
To try and answer some of your questions:
1. Model #'s. I was pretty sure, just verified they both are the EXACT same model board. Both state TNP2AH035 with a 1 and A circled even on both.
2. What a great last ditch effort, I can't believe I didn't think of that! Replace the whole 47" case over the 53" shell and have a near perfect picture at least for the 47". I would like to end up fixing the 53" board, but with the burn in somewhere on the 47"(is that on the tube itself? no easy repair their correct?), I would really like to get the 53" size working with the 47", it's amazing how much bigger it actually is than the 47".
3. Just for troubleshooting purposes, you got me thinking again about switching parts around. I just took the 47" board and put it back into the 47" TV. The convergence was WAY off, reset it all back to near perfect minus the service menu settings, just using the Conv 1 large crosshairs, and Conv 2 8 smaller cross hairs, and it's running perfect again. Hasn't cut off yet. Will let it run for a few hours to make sure there are no problems. Then I am going to put it back into the 53" and just turn it on, and not make one change. This would test everything "other" than the convergence chips in theory, and if it runs for hours, then I think it would mean that I am stretching the convergence chips beyond their effective range. maybe? Also, I don't think I let it "warm up" enough maybe before making any changes. If it runs for a few hours, then once I find the Service Manual or download the one you posted, I will try my hand at that again. If I find the manual I am going to post it in a single file for you guys to share going forward.
4. I am adding a screenshot at the bottom of this post of the 47" with the burn-in on the sides at the bottom. It's not the end of the world, but for me (who also has a 150" HD Projection theater dedicated room), it's pretty annoying trying to watch something and seeing those bars on the sides.
5. Resistor testing. This could be my downfall. I did not lift each leg (spanking in order). I just tested over the top of each resistor, understanding that I could get variances. the thing is, that the readings were exactly what they were suppose to be. 2.2 were reading exactly 2.2, 220's same thing, even the 82 ohm read exactly 82ohm. I tested EVERY resistor this way, I even ordered replacements in case I needed them (so I have them, just didn't want to use if I didn't need to), but with the readings on the mark, I couldn't justify to myself that one was bad. If it was, which one would it be? They all look good. Will take a screenshot of that as well and post below.
6. IC contact pads. One of the pads had lifted up, as my soldering iron from radio shack that you can't buy replacement tips for in the store (another aggrevating story) was a bit dull, and I take responsibility for the contact pad coming off The first time I replaced the IC, I made a clean bridge from the leg to the contact point off the pad. Since I have had problems, I have replaced the IC's quite a few times, switching them around (I bought 4 new IC's. 2 fixed the 47", I wasn't going to unsolder those, and risk messing that one up)and testing my solder points. The second time, I removed the pad, cleaned it up a bit, and just created a jumper wire (RJ45 wire) from the leg of the IC to the next open trace point on the board which is the leg of one of the resistors. I tested prior to installing and after installing that the path was made, so I don't think there is an issue there. All of that said, there could still be a problem with 1. The IC's bad 2. Resistors 3. Shorting somewhere, or 4. something else on the board I can't detect not working correctly. this is my biggest worry. Will put a picture of this as well.
Picture 1/2: Showing Screen Burn-In on 47"
http://www.thewilsonclan.com/Forsale/47_Bars1.jpg
![]()
http://www.thewilsonclan.com/Forsale/47_Bars2.jpg
![]()
Picture 3: Bottom of 53" board showing trace re-route
http://www.thewilsonclan.com/Forsale/53_Wire1.jpg
![]()
Picture 4: Top of 53" board showing all resistors looking good (tested good without lifting leg, that's next step I suppose)
http://www.thewilsonclan.com/Forsale/53_IC.jpg
![]()
Thanks for the detailed response(s), this is the reason I joined this forum, look forward to the other valuable material when I get past this hurdle and have some more free time to paruse..(I am sure I didn't spell that right).
To try and answer some of your questions:
1. Model #'s. I was pretty sure, just verified they both are the EXACT same model board. Both state TNP2AH035 with a 1 and A circled even on both.
2. What a great last ditch effort, I can't believe I didn't think of that! Replace the whole 47" case over the 53" shell and have a near perfect picture at least for the 47". I would like to end up fixing the 53" board, but with the burn in somewhere on the 47"(is that on the tube itself? no easy repair their correct?), I would really like to get the 53" size working with the 47", it's amazing how much bigger it actually is than the 47".
3. Just for troubleshooting purposes, you got me thinking again about switching parts around. I just took the 47" board and put it back into the 47" TV. The convergence was WAY off, reset it all back to near perfect minus the service menu settings, just using the Conv 1 large crosshairs, and Conv 2 8 smaller cross hairs, and it's running perfect again. Hasn't cut off yet. Will let it run for a few hours to make sure there are no problems. Then I am going to put it back into the 53" and just turn it on, and not make one change. This would test everything "other" than the convergence chips in theory, and if it runs for hours, then I think it would mean that I am stretching the convergence chips beyond their effective range. maybe?
Also, I don't think I let it "warm up" enough maybe before making any changes. If it runs for a few hours, then once I find the Service Manual or download the one you posted, I will try my hand at that again. If I find the manual I am going to post it in a single file for you guys to share going forward.4. I am adding a screenshot at the bottom of this post of the 47" with the burn-in on the sides at the bottom. It's not the end of the world, but for me (who also has a 150" HD Projection theater dedicated room), it's pretty annoying trying to watch something and seeing those bars on the sides.
5. Resistor testing. This could be my downfall. I did not lift each leg
(spanking in order). I just tested over the top of each resistor, understanding that I could get variances. the thing is, that the readings were exactly what they were suppose to be. 2.2 were reading exactly 2.2, 220's same thing, even the 82 ohm read exactly 82ohm. I tested EVERY resistor this way, I even ordered replacements in case I needed them (so I have them, just didn't want to use if I didn't need to), but with the readings on the mark, I couldn't justify to myself that one was bad. If it was, which one would it be? They all look good. Will take a screenshot of that as well and post below.6. IC contact pads. One of the pads had lifted up, as my soldering iron from radio shack that you can't buy replacement tips for in the store (another aggrevating story) was a bit dull, and I take responsibility for the contact pad coming off
The first time I replaced the IC, I made a clean bridge from the leg to the contact point off the pad. Since I have had problems, I have replaced the IC's quite a few times, switching them around (I bought 4 new IC's. 2 fixed the 47", I wasn't going to unsolder those, and risk messing that one up)and testing my solder points. The second time, I removed the pad, cleaned it up a bit, and just created a jumper wire (RJ45 wire) from the leg of the IC to the next open trace point on the board which is the leg of one of the resistors. I tested prior to installing and after installing that the path was made, so I don't think there is an issue there. All of that said, there could still be a problem with 1. The IC's bad 2. Resistors 3. Shorting somewhere, or 4. something else on the board I can't detect not working correctly. this is my biggest worry. Will put a picture of this as well.Picture 1/2: Showing Screen Burn-In on 47"
http://www.thewilsonclan.com/Forsale/47_Bars1.jpg
http://www.thewilsonclan.com/Forsale/47_Bars2.jpg
Picture 3: Bottom of 53" board showing trace re-route
http://www.thewilsonclan.com/Forsale/53_Wire1.jpg
Picture 4: Top of 53" board showing all resistors looking good (tested good without lifting leg, that's next step I suppose)
http://www.thewilsonclan.com/Forsale/53_IC.jpg
4
It won't let me post links until I have 5 posts
I tried to use Insert Image, but it's not showing the pictures.
I guess this is post 4, Mod, can you delete this and the next post, so I can keep the thread clean? But I need 5 posts, and don't want to blow smoke up some other post with (good job!, or Great Pic!)
Brian.
I don't see where I can delete this post myself
I tried to use Insert Image, but it's not showing the pictures.
I guess this is post 4, Mod, can you delete this and the next post, so I can keep the thread clean? But I need 5 posts, and don't want to blow smoke up some other post with (good job!, or Great Pic!
)Brian.
I don't see where I can delete this post myself
Hi Brian,
You're welcome - though I'm nothing more than a rank amateur, I enjoy working on these and it's fun to collaberate with someone with the same interest.
*) Glad to hear the boards are the same model. It must be storing the convergence, picture size, etc. info on that board which is why that info is traveling with it. I would imagine you could adjust these items in the service menu. Before you change anything in the service menu make sure you write down what the original values were and keep that info safe. Still, it may not be much fun getting the geometry correct. My son and I changed the CRT fluid in a Magnavox once and we had to take the crts out and then had to diddle with them to get things back right -> it sucked, I'm just not a patient person! So I try to avoid Philips/Magnavoxs these days (though we did just fix a very nice one last weekend).
*) Glad to see you liked the moving the projection chamber idea - not the most elegant solution but it's probably work and I'd rather move the projection chamber than the crts as after moving them you'd probably have to diddle with the geometry (though maybe not, if you take them out as a complete unit in the rack it may not be so bad, I dunno - I've never done it).
*) Yes, inches do make a difference! I would prefer the 53" over the 47" also.
*) The manual I posted a link to is clunky but it does work. An all in one pdf would be nice though. Unfortunately you can't post large files here - which is why I always give links. If you find one upload it to techlore and then link to it.
*) Yeah, that screen burn on the edges would annoy me too!
*) The resistor testing should be OK. It's just good general practice to lift one side but looking at the schematic it looks like nothing is paralleled with them so they should test OK in circuit. I'm posting a couple snips from the service manual showing the convergence ics and the related components - I'd be tempted to test the 3.3k resistors too.
*) The lifted IC contact pad concerns me. You were getting a lot of heat on the board to do that so it makes me wonder about the rest. Again, I posted a snip of the convergence IC circuit so look it over and maybe run some continuity tests between the chip legs and what they are supposed to connect to.
My thoughts are let's fix the 53" board as then we don't have to mess around changing a bunch of stuff in the service menu. I'm really thinking it's a damaged circuit board trace or an overlooked burnt component and I think with a little troubleshooting we should be able to narrow it down.
The 47" - sell that board on eBay for enough to pay for your chips you bought so the tv ends up being truly free!
Now, that being said . . . keep a good head on your shoulders here. You've gotten TWO of these for free! There are more out there! I usually pick them up for free to $50, more free than anything. It's a broken tv, it's not a slam dunk to fix them or everyone would be, and they are heavy and a pain to haul and most landfills charge you to take them so you're actually doing someone a favor taking it off their hands -> don't lose sight of that fact! If you want a big screen and these get too involved then just rip your chips out of them, junk them, and find another on CraigsList <- 3rd time is a charm!
I admire your persistance though and I really hope we get this figured out for ya! At the very least I'm sure you can end up with a 47" out of the deal.
TTYL,
Steve
You're welcome - though I'm nothing more than a rank amateur, I enjoy working on these and it's fun to collaberate with someone with the same interest.
*) Glad to hear the boards are the same model. It must be storing the convergence, picture size, etc. info on that board which is why that info is traveling with it. I would imagine you could adjust these items in the service menu. Before you change anything in the service menu make sure you write down what the original values were and keep that info safe. Still, it may not be much fun getting the geometry correct. My son and I changed the CRT fluid in a Magnavox once and we had to take the crts out and then had to diddle with them to get things back right -> it sucked, I'm just not a patient person! So I try to avoid Philips/Magnavoxs these days (though we did just fix a very nice one last weekend).
*) Glad to see you liked the moving the projection chamber idea - not the most elegant solution but it's probably work and I'd rather move the projection chamber than the crts as after moving them you'd probably have to diddle with the geometry (though maybe not, if you take them out as a complete unit in the rack it may not be so bad, I dunno - I've never done it).
*) Yes, inches do make a difference! I would prefer the 53" over the 47" also.
*) The manual I posted a link to is clunky but it does work. An all in one pdf would be nice though. Unfortunately you can't post large files here - which is why I always give links. If you find one upload it to techlore and then link to it.
*) Yeah, that screen burn on the edges would annoy me too!
*) The resistor testing should be OK. It's just good general practice to lift one side but looking at the schematic it looks like nothing is paralleled with them so they should test OK in circuit. I'm posting a couple snips from the service manual showing the convergence ics and the related components - I'd be tempted to test the 3.3k resistors too.
*) The lifted IC contact pad concerns me. You were getting a lot of heat on the board to do that so it makes me wonder about the rest. Again, I posted a snip of the convergence IC circuit so look it over and maybe run some continuity tests between the chip legs and what they are supposed to connect to.
My thoughts are let's fix the 53" board as then we don't have to mess around changing a bunch of stuff in the service menu. I'm really thinking it's a damaged circuit board trace or an overlooked burnt component and I think with a little troubleshooting we should be able to narrow it down.
The 47" - sell that board on eBay for enough to pay for your chips you bought so the tv ends up being truly free!
Now, that being said . . . keep a good head on your shoulders here. You've gotten TWO of these for free! There are more out there! I usually pick them up for free to $50, more free than anything. It's a broken tv, it's not a slam dunk to fix them or everyone would be, and they are heavy and a pain to haul and most landfills charge you to take them so you're actually doing someone a favor taking it off their hands -> don't lose sight of that fact! If you want a big screen and these get too involved then just rip your chips out of them, junk them, and find another on CraigsList <- 3rd time is a charm!
I admire your persistance though and I really hope we get this figured out for ya! At the very least I'm sure you can end up with a 47" out of the deal.
TTYL,
Steve
Attachments
Hi All,
Sorry for the delay, weekends are tough to get any personal time, now that I am back, can dedicate some more time to getting this going.
Few updates:
1. I have downloaded all of the 22 files painstakingly and zipped them all together and posted them on my website for now. Please put them wherever you think they fit best, and we can edit the post to show a new location for any new people looking for a service menu. I really think Panasonic should just offer this on their site cleanly..
http://www.thewilsonclan.com/Files/PT-47WX52F.zip
2. The last update I said I would put the 47" board back into the 47" cabinet, get it working perfect again, then switch it back. I have done this, and after putting it in the 53" cabinet, it has ran for 8+ hours playing a DVD over and over no problem whatsoever.
So this clarifies everything "Other" than the Video board correct? If there were any problems with anything else in the TV, it would just shutoff. But with the convergence set perfectly for a 47" on the 47" board, the TV runs great, but blurry as hell
3. So this leaves me with a few thoughts, and I would like to get some others feedback here.
a. When I converge (using basic settings, not Service Menu) the picture to look correct, the TV was shutting off. I didn't give it ample time to warm up, so I could try that, but it still wouldn't fix the stretch issue that needs to happen from within the service menu.
b. It could possibly be the convergence IC's that I put into the board can't handle the strain of tweaking from 47 to 53 size? This is what I would like feedback on. I hear all the complaints of "you get what you pay for..." But I just don't buy it personally. I have heard this for everything electronics, and usually it's posted from the ones who have something to lose (revenue), or also had some other problems (solder bridges, incorrectly installed, etc), but if I was just using these $10 parts in the 47" and left it at that they would be running fine. Does anyone think the "cheaper" $10 IC could be limited in it's ability to handle more power/heat of what a 53 setting could be putting on it? I am not even sure that makes a true difference in power/heat, just trying to figure it out by process of elimination.
c. Now that I have a Service Manual back, I can easily write down settings that have a beginning/changed value, but there are some like Horiz/Vert stretching that I will need to do, that I don't believe have a set value, so if I start making changes, I may never be able to get this back to near perfect for the 47"
Steve,
I am in the process next of looking over the 53" board to see any problems, other than the pad (which I think I have bypassed successfully, I am not sure what else could be wrong with it (other than just getting new IC's again and trying again). Would really like to get this board working to avoid all the changes to the 47" board to work with the 53". Will try cleaning and putting in the brand new IC's again, with the wire jumper on the one pad and see if that works.
Thanks, Brian.
Sorry for the delay, weekends are tough to get any personal time, now that I am back, can dedicate some more time to getting this going.
Few updates:
1. I have downloaded all of the 22 files painstakingly and zipped them all together and posted them on my website for now. Please put them wherever you think they fit best, and we can edit the post to show a new location for any new people looking for a service menu. I really think Panasonic should just offer this on their site cleanly..
http://www.thewilsonclan.com/Files/PT-47WX52F.zip
2. The last update I said I would put the 47" board back into the 47" cabinet, get it working perfect again, then switch it back. I have done this, and after putting it in the 53" cabinet, it has ran for 8+ hours playing a DVD over and over no problem whatsoever.
So this clarifies everything "Other" than the Video board correct? If there were any problems with anything else in the TV, it would just shutoff. But with the convergence set perfectly for a 47" on the 47" board, the TV runs great, but blurry as hell
3. So this leaves me with a few thoughts, and I would like to get some others feedback here.
a. When I converge (using basic settings, not Service Menu) the picture to look correct, the TV was shutting off. I didn't give it ample time to warm up, so I could try that, but it still wouldn't fix the stretch issue that needs to happen from within the service menu.
b. It could possibly be the convergence IC's that I put into the board can't handle the strain of tweaking from 47 to 53 size? This is what I would like feedback on. I hear all the complaints of "you get what you pay for..." But I just don't buy it personally. I have heard this for everything electronics, and usually it's posted from the ones who have something to lose (revenue), or also had some other problems (solder bridges, incorrectly installed, etc), but if I was just using these $10 parts in the 47" and left it at that they would be running fine. Does anyone think the "cheaper" $10 IC could be limited in it's ability to handle more power/heat of what a 53 setting could be putting on it? I am not even sure that makes a true difference in power/heat, just trying to figure it out by process of elimination.
c. Now that I have a Service Manual back, I can easily write down settings that have a beginning/changed value, but there are some like Horiz/Vert stretching that I will need to do, that I don't believe have a set value, so if I start making changes, I may never be able to get this back to near perfect for the 47"
Steve,
I am in the process next of looking over the 53" board to see any problems, other than the pad (which I think I have bypassed successfully, I am not sure what else could be wrong with it (other than just getting new IC's again and trying again). Would really like to get this board working to avoid all the changes to the 47" board to work with the 53". Will try cleaning and putting in the brand new IC's again, with the wire jumper on the one pad and see if that works.
Thanks, Brian.
Agree, think it's not even worth the postage at this point. Thanks so much for the offer, but like you said, I think it's not worth it. Plus as I mess with the service menu settings on this 47" board in the 53" Cabinet, I am really thinking I can get this thing running good. It hasn't cut off on me yet, and is making all of the changes I try (though I am having trouble with a few things, will comment below on).
So concentrating on getting the Service menu to work for me, here is where I am so far..
1. Able to get into Service Menu. Yay! FYI, for anyone following this thread, it's very simple, I think people mess up reading the manual when it's time to press the key on TV. So here are the steps to easily get the service menu up on this unit:
On Remote: press action to bring up setup. Make sure you have Cable mode selected. Go to Timer option, and make it 30 minutes. Hit Action three times to get out of setup completely. Go to Channel 124. Turn your volume all the way to 0.
On TV: press the volume DOWN button. You will see some text at the top of the screen. The TV is now in Service Mode.
On Remote: Press Power. This will bring up all of the service options.
Hopefully that helps a few people that were having trouble with the service menu. Now back to my problem
2. In the Service Manual (The one we have been discussing is for PT-47WX52F and it's vaiants. On page 38 of the service manual (47wx_01.pdf from my above link) it provides all of the "Default" settings. This is great, I am sure if I had checked this before, the picture would have been great in the 47" cabinet. But now I am in a 53" cabinit...Shucks. Now I REALLY need to find the service manual for PT-53WX42F thinking I could just use the default settings that are listed in that, and may fix most of my Horiz/Vert issues.. If you use Torrents, there appears to be a torrent of the SM here: http://www.fulldls.com/torrents/pt-53wx42f-service-manual But I don't use torrents.
3. After printing off these pages, and setting everything to default as a 47", the picture is of course pretty off. I had a small hope it would look perfect but only on 47" of the screen, but it doesn't work that way unfortunately. I started making a few changes to the ones I felt comfortable with, and was able to pull in the center area to almost perfection. If I exit out of the service menu, I can see the picture and it looks beautiful! but only in about a 8x8 section of the middle of the screen. This is where it gets complicated for me personally.
4. I have found that there are a lot of settings to change, but most are for all of the picture, I am not seeing specific sections of the screen to be able to change. So right now, as mentioned can get center good, but with the "Bow" effect from Bottom/Top and some from Left/Right (but not as bad), I am not sure what to do next. I have just "tested" settings going up and down the range to see what it effects, and not getting a flatening of the bow effect. I think this is where someone familiar with these settings could be done in 10 minutes probably, but trial and error is taking a while as you said steve. My next steps are to start googling the differences in Coarse/Fine adjustments, Horz/Vert Parabola, Vert SAW, but since I am not seeing much change in them, will see.
5. Lastly, when pulling up the color grid boxes, I feel sure there is a way here to move the outside areas of the screen, I just am not sure how yet. Like in the "Basic Convergence" where you have all the little crosses, I shouldn't need to use that because I am in the service menu right? I wouldn't think I would have to get everything set in service, then go make adjustments to the basic? Even if I did, I think I am getting some "slightly tilted" crosses on a few spots where the picture is still bowing.
Steve,
I have a video camera setup and it's pointing at the TV in my home office(normally pointed at me for work meetings). Would you be up for a Teleconfrence? If so I can setup a WebEx/Skype, and we can chat real time, and you can see the TV as I make adjustments to it. Offer open to anyone comfortable with Service Menu settings, send me a PM with your email address, and time you want to chat if so, and I will send an invite.
Thanks,
Brian.
So concentrating on getting the Service menu to work for me, here is where I am so far..
1. Able to get into Service Menu.
Yay! FYI, for anyone following this thread, it's very simple, I think people mess up reading the manual when it's time to press the key on TV. So here are the steps to easily get the service menu up on this unit:On Remote: press action to bring up setup. Make sure you have Cable mode selected. Go to Timer option, and make it 30 minutes. Hit Action three times to get out of setup completely. Go to Channel 124. Turn your volume all the way to 0.
On TV: press the volume DOWN button. You will see some text at the top of the screen. The TV is now in Service Mode.
On Remote: Press Power. This will bring up all of the service options.
Hopefully that helps a few people that were having trouble with the service menu. Now back to my problem
2. In the Service Manual (The one we have been discussing is for PT-47WX52F and it's vaiants. On page 38 of the service manual (47wx_01.pdf from my above link) it provides all of the "Default" settings. This is great, I am sure if I had checked this before, the picture would have been great in the 47" cabinet. But now I am in a 53" cabinit...Shucks. Now I REALLY need to find the service manual for PT-53WX42F thinking I could just use the default settings that are listed in that, and may fix most of my Horiz/Vert issues.. If you use Torrents, there appears to be a torrent of the SM here: http://www.fulldls.com/torrents/pt-53wx42f-service-manual But I don't use torrents.
3. After printing off these pages, and setting everything to default as a 47", the picture is of course pretty off. I had a small hope it would look perfect but only on 47" of the screen, but it doesn't work that way unfortunately. I started making a few changes to the ones I felt comfortable with, and was able to pull in the center area to almost perfection. If I exit out of the service menu, I can see the picture and it looks beautiful! but only in about a 8x8 section of the middle of the screen. This is where it gets complicated for me personally.
4. I have found that there are a lot of settings to change, but most are for all of the picture, I am not seeing specific sections of the screen to be able to change. So right now, as mentioned can get center good, but with the "Bow" effect from Bottom/Top and some from Left/Right (but not as bad), I am not sure what to do next. I have just "tested" settings going up and down the range to see what it effects, and not getting a flatening of the bow effect. I think this is where someone familiar with these settings could be done in 10 minutes probably, but trial and error is taking a while as you said steve. My next steps are to start googling the differences in Coarse/Fine adjustments, Horz/Vert Parabola, Vert SAW, but since I am not seeing much change in them, will see.
5. Lastly, when pulling up the color grid boxes, I feel sure there is a way here to move the outside areas of the screen, I just am not sure how yet. Like in the "Basic Convergence" where you have all the little crosses, I shouldn't need to use that because I am in the service menu right? I wouldn't think I would have to get everything set in service, then go make adjustments to the basic? Even if I did, I think I am getting some "slightly tilted" crosses on a few spots where the picture is still bowing.
Steve,
I have a video camera setup and it's pointing at the TV in my home office(normally pointed at me for work meetings). Would you be up for a Teleconfrence? If so I can setup a WebEx/Skype, and we can chat real time, and you can see the TV as I make adjustments to it. Offer open to anyone comfortable with Service Menu settings, send me a PM with your email address, and time you want to chat if so, and I will send an invite.
Thanks,
Brian.
Hi Steve,
Glad to hear your son's home and hopefully in good shape!
Haven't gotten any further, need to sit down with the service manual some more to figure out how to move areas outside of the center marks within the service menu. I think that's all I need to figure out, and can get this thing running near perfect.
FYI, if you do get time, you don't have to do anything on your side, no camera or technology to learn I just send you a link and you can connect to my meeting, it will call your home phone, and I will be sharing video so you can see the TV in action.
If your up for it anytime soon, send me a PM with your email address and what times are good and I would like to chat with you.
In the meantime I will keep working on trying to find a 53" manual and messing in the service menu.
Thanks, Brian.
Glad to hear your son's home and hopefully in good shape!
Haven't gotten any further, need to sit down with the service manual some more to figure out how to move areas outside of the center marks within the service menu. I think that's all I need to figure out, and can get this thing running near perfect.
FYI, if you do get time, you don't have to do anything on your side, no camera or technology to learn
I just send you a link and you can connect to my meeting, it will call your home phone, and I will be sharing video so you can see the TV in action. If your up for it anytime soon, send me a PM with your email address and what times are good and I would like to chat with you.
In the meantime I will keep working on trying to find a 53" manual and messing in the service menu.
Thanks, Brian.
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