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Discussion Starter #421
So I still haven't decided on the "finishing touches" for the booth... letters are still in a stack on the poker table...

Here is a picture of what it looks like right now:


Next project in the basement will be FINALLY redoing the bar. I talked about it back at the beginning of this thread - and it just never happened. Now I am MUCH more confident in my ability to build a bar - which is really not hard AT ALL, I was just over thinking it before.
This will be the next project that has to happen in the basement before I'm going to be able to justify the projector/screen.

Still have to keep most basement things on hold though until we replace 2 sliding doors and get new concrete poured for our front porch that has decided to start falling apart. :rant:
 

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Discussion Starter #422
Alright - I'm trying to get my plan together for the upcoming upgrade to a projector and screen. Projector will be a BenQ HT2050, screen will be a DIY spandex AT screen. Up until this past weekend my plan had been for the screen to go on the wall with speakers around it - now I am changing my mind.

First row of seating will be about 9.5' from the screen wall, planned screen will be a 16:9 117" diagonal - my available space allows 102" width for the screen.
Projector will be mounted at 10.5-11' from the screen. This allows me to take advantage of the height difference between the back half of the room and the front of the room (7'10" tall in the back half).

I have a few issues to deal with - main issue being that the false wall can only have 16" of depth behind it, and my subwoofers stick out 26" from the actual back wall... but I have a plan for that.

So let me start out by showing you guys what I'm starting with and what my plan is... and hopefully get some feedback.

So this is what the front of the room looks like now - that door on the right is the reason I can only have 16" of depth:



Plan is to build a 6" tall stage that will bow out from the edge of the door out to about 32" from the back wall - that will make it deep enough for the subs at the right point. I plan to build a false wall with fabric panels held on by velcro or magnets for the front "wall" that will go around the subs and give a place to mount the screen. Here is a SweetHome3D rendering of what it might look like:



I'm not sure exactly where to put the speakers - maybe on a platform just above the subwoofers that would let me put them out at the edges of the screen - if that seems like a reasonable width.
I'm not sure how close they can be to the wall - I'm just using the Andrew Jones Pioneer speakers right now and they are rear ported. For the moment I won't be upgrading speakers so these will have to work - not sure what the best practice is here other than reading they should be "at least a port width" away from a wall. Worst case scenario I could cut into the actual front wall - to create more space, but I would rather not if I can help it.

Plus side to this idea is that I can do some linacoustic or some other form of bass absorption behind the false wall and around the speakers - can I do that around rear ported speakers?

Does this idea look like it makes sense?
 

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Aaron, nice plan to deal with the false wall. I have a similar "funny" front wall idea, although mine isn't limited by the doorway like yours is. I wanted to keep as much depth as I could for screen distance, but the subs and equipment rack will need 2' of space. My plan is to build a lower section out 2' deep to accommodate them, and then push back the upper screen section to 1' deep. This will allow the main speakers to sit behind still, but give me a little more room for viewing distance in my tight room.
 

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A friend of mine put ported subs by a treated wall, and had to put wood in front of the treated wall to get the bass back. Not sure how it will effect non sub frequencies though.
 

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Discussion Starter #425
Aaron, nice plan to deal with the false wall. I have a similar "funny" front wall idea, although mine isn't limited by the doorway like yours is. I wanted to keep as much depth as I could for screen distance, but the subs and equipment rack will need 2' of space. My plan is to build a lower section out 2' deep to accommodate them, and then push back the upper screen section to 1' deep. This will allow the main speakers to sit behind still, but give me a little more room for viewing distance in my tight room.
Yeah I had considered doing something along those lines and building the lower portion out to hide the subs, but I would have to angle or curve it back in for the door and I wasn't sure how that would look. I suppose if I didn't actually build the stage I could do a fabric front wall around the subs...

A friend of mine put ported subs by a treated wall, and had to put wood in front of the treated wall to get the bass back. Not sure how it will effect non sub frequencies though.
Good to know. I guess I'll just have to give it a try and see... I know people do recommend acoustic panels behind the speakers so I don't know that it would be much different? Maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter #427
I did a few mock-ups of stage free versions after some discussion over on AVS... I had one idea that involved rotating the subs 90 degrees and building out the wall to hide them. In my head it sounded great, but after seeing the rendering it doesn't look so good.

So here is my "hide the subwoofers" idea ... I don't think this one will work. It brings the screen to a position where the first row is only 9' from the screen. (Used grey for the walls so they would show up... in real life all would be black)



Bringing it all back in to 16" depth on the screen wall - subwoofers rotated with the ports facing to the side walls. This layout would let me go wider on the screen than the other option would.

 

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Discussion Starter #428
Only current update is that my father in-law came over this weekend to take a look at the HVAC situation in my room, he does heating and cooling professionally. Currently there is one vent into the room that is located just in front of my back row of seats and no return in the room. In fact there isn't a return in the entire basement - apparently all of the air gets returned by going under the door to the upstairs - at least that's how my father in-law explained it. Problem is the movie room is pretty pretty sealed up now so the air in there isn't being pulled out when the door is closed.

What I wanted to do was either move the incoming vent to the center of the front of the room, or split it into 2 and put them closer to the side walls in the front of the room and add a return along the back wall of the room.
Main reason I wanted to do this was that it gets pretty stuffy in the room with 4-6 people watching a movie.

It turns out that won't be possible without some major work. The duct to the vent is running in a joist space and it is only a 6" duct so no splitting it. Unfortunately there isn't enough room between the drop ceiling in the back half of the room and the joists to turn it and run it to the front of the room, and the main trunk running near the front half of the room already has enough branches off of it that my FIL didn't think it would be good to add another because we would potentially lose to much airflow to the upstairs.

I may look into rerouting the 6" duct in the furnace room to bring it into the front of the room, but that looks extremely labor intensive as it will have to route around quite a few pipes and other ducts.

I will be putting in a return at the front of the room though - FIL suggested just putting an intake vent on the main trunk of the furnace and opening up a hole (with a grate on it) into the theater room in the area of my equipment rack. I will probably end up doing either that or running a duct to the front of the room off to one side (probably above the closet door).
 

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When we were doing our HVAC setup... the installer said that we could get by without one due to the size of the room. What i do have though is a filter on a HVAC hose behind our AT screen that dumps into the closet in the next room. We do have sound leakage to the rest of the house though because of it, and you def will know if the fan is on when you try to close the closet door. LOL
 

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If you're doing an acoustically transparent screen (which is absolutely the way to go, in my opinion), I very much recommend spending just a bit more for the material than spandex. If you contact SeymourAV, they'll sell you just their material and you can use it in your DIY frame just as you would spandex. It really is affordable, and you're getting a big step up using material that was engineered to project an image on and not affect the sound passing through, as opposed to a material that was engineered to be worn by 80's rockers and aerobics instructors. ;)

I built my 115" DIY screen with Seymour's material, velvet, and the wood for under $400.
 

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Discussion Starter #431
If you're doing an acoustically transparent screen (which is absolutely the way to go, in my opinion), I very much recommend spending just a bit more for the material than spandex. If you contact SeymourAV, they'll sell you just their material and you can use it in your DIY frame just as you would spandex. It really is affordable, and you're getting a big step up using material that was engineered to project an image on and not affect the sound passing through, as opposed to a material that was engineered to be worn by 80's rockers and aerobics instructors. ;)

I built my 115" DIY screen with Seymour's material, velvet, and the wood for under $400.
Thanks for the input, I do understand what you're saying - unfortunately $400 is a whole lot more than I can spend on a screen.
Maybe in the future... at the moment the $50-70 it will cost to build the spandex screen fits my budget much better ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #432
Okay - so I as working out how I wanted to build the false wall in the front of the room I realized my renderings had the ceiling height wrong. I adjusted the rendering - which makes it pretty clear than I can't go any bigger than a 102" wide screen because I'll run out of room height-wise. At 102" wide it will be 57" tall and leave me 5" of space between the ceiling and the top of the screen.
I'll have an additional 6" of height in the back part of the room where the projector will mount, so there is plenty of room there.

Anyway - this is what it will look like with 26" under the screen as needed for the rear row to be able to see the whole screen:



I did an old school drawing for the false wall framing since I still can't figure out how to use SketchUp...
I figured that the opening should allow for 2" of overhang of the screen in all directions so I am making it 4" shorter and narrower than the screen will be.
Do I need that much overhang?



I will be overbuilding this - as I always seem to do, so there will be another frame against the front wall, the frame pictured above will be 16" off the front wall to give enough depth for the speakers to sit behind the screen.
The front wall will be skinned in fabric - velvet is looking like the best option right now... I can get it locally at Joann Fabric with a coupon, and I won't need to figure out how to make a frame around the screen ;)

I'm going to pick up some corner bass traps from the Foam Factory (it is local for me) for the front corners since it is a whole lot cheaper than anywhere else: http://www.usafoam.com/acousticfoam/bassbroad.html


I plan on doing some sort of insulation on the whole front wall - Linacoustic is a bit on the expensive side, but maybe in the future.
So anyway - that's what I'm planning so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #433
I've done literally nothing as far as progress with the room... Not really much point at the moment since I don't have the projector ;)

I've been spending my spare time working on tracking down some problems on my wife's SUV, and after getting new tires on my Jeep Saturday I found out that I need to replace both control arms on mine! Setting aside funds for the projector/mount/screen/etc is becoming more difficult than I expected!

On the plus side I've watched a few movies and played some PS4 games in the room, so it isn't being completely neglected ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #434
Been 2 months in the making, but I have a huge update: I just ordered my projector!! I just got an early Christmas amazon gift card from my parents, and the price on the projector dropped by $130, so I had to put the order in! It will be here Sunday along with a mount.
I'm actually feeling more nervous than excited about this for some reason, and I know that is probably ridiculous... but what can you do?

I have the screen material in a box waiting for a frame to be built - a really generous local AVS member gave it to me because he didn't need it for his build anymore. VERY cool! Thanks Brian - even though I don't think you're on this forum. Screen will be white over black spandex.

Screen will be built with fingerjoined pine boards - 8'7" wide and however tall it works out to be when you divide that by 1.77 ;)
I was going to do 8'6" wide, but I discovered that the FJ pine boards came in either 12' or 8' lengths and didn't want to waste a bunch of wood... so I'll be doing 8' crossbars on the top with 1x4s on either end to bring it up to 8'7".

Thus far I have done nothing in the way of building my new front wall - simply no time or money to put towards it. All I've done is pick up a couple of FJ 1x3" boards to test out the fit for the uprights of my minimalist screenwall.

I have a "guys movie day" planned for the 18th where we will be watching Suicide Squad extended cut - don't anticipate having the screen up for that.
 

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Be careful...once you start watching movies in the new room, you will be lucky if you do any more work on it. I didn't heed to others that said this and 3 years later my HT is still not completed. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #436
Be careful...once you start watching movies in the new room, you will be lucky if you do any more work on it. I didn't heed to others that said this and 3 years later my HT is still not completed. ;)
Haha! Yeah... I'm going to build a "minimalist" screen wall with velvet panels, I am going to build in just the uprights to hang the screen at first. My fear is I will never get the velvet panels built :rofl:

I'm thinking the screen build and installation of the uprights and rigging a way to hang the screen shouldn't take too much more than a day of work. I do also have to build a stand for the center speaker - I think I'll be just standing the right and lefts on top of the subs instead of building the large shelf I had been planning on.
 

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Discussion Starter #437
Projector arrived today... didn't get much time to play with it but I did throw a sheet up in my living room and fire it up. Watched a bit of Pitch Perfect 2 through my computer - it just happened to be what was on the web app from my cable provider at the time, don't judge!

I was pretty impressed with how it looked on an unevenly hung sheet in a room with the lights on - so I can't wait to see how it looks on a proper screen in a light controlled theater room!

 

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Discussion Starter #438
We've officially moved into Version 3.0 of the English Way Cinema...

First I had to mount the projector and figure out how to mount the outlet for power and an outlet for the HDMI... being that I had a drop ceiling to deal with I wanted to deal with and wanted everything mounted "correctly".
I just happened to have a piece of 2x12 leftover from my riser build that just happened to be the exact size to replace part of a ceiling tile...


On the 24th I had a little time so I got to work trying to get things figured out...

Pulled out the Kreg pocket hole gizmo that I have never used before and drilled myself a few holes...


A friend that does a lot of woodworking suggested getting the Kreg specialized clamp for keeping things in place - and it worked like a charm!



You may notice that the 2x4 pieces are different lengths and you may wonder if there is a reason... the answer is "yes". The reason is that I had 2 pieces of 2x4 laying around that were different lengths and I didn't want to fire up the saw at midnight. LOL!

Ended up looking like this:


Took a lot of fiddling but I got the mount attached to the projector - this was the first attempt, turned out it needed to be shifted over a bit to get the lens in the middle of the room.


Test fit looked like this:


I'll have to pull it back down to make the hole for the outlet - and while it is down I'll get it painted flat black to match the rest of the ceiling.
 

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Discussion Starter #439
Monday I had a little time... and decided to get to work on my screen!

Started out by putting the Kreg pocket hole jig to good use - note the creative solution to the low ceiling ;)



I also put the router I got from my wife's grandpa to good use to put some grooves in 1x2 boards for the "frame stiffeners":



You can see that I did 2 passes with a 3/8" bit to get the 3/4" I needed... it's made a lot of sawdust! Clearly hooking the shop vac to the router didn't do much! LOL!


It was at this point that I realized I had made a big mistake. I drilled the pocket holes in the 1x3s without actually measuring them to see if they were actually 8' long! When I checked - it turned out they were both too long, but not the same amount of too long. Since the holes were already drilled there was only a fraction of an inch I could trim off on either end - and to make it better one of the 2 remaining boards had a nasty lateral curve to it so I couldn't use it for the frame!
Thankfully the other spare board was good and also a good length. Very long story slightly shorter: the long boards are 1/4" longer than originally planned.

Next bummer was that the special pocket hole clamp I used earlier wouldn't work for this frame :(
Luckily I had a solution:


End result was this beauty:


Before I could get the "stiffener trim" installed I had to stop... my plan for the day also included changing a wheel bearing on my wife's car - and that took way too long to get back to the screen build.
 

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Discussion Starter #440
Still left to do on the screen build is attach the stiffener boards, attach the Screen Tight strips, add a cross beam between the center uprights for the French cleat to attach to... and then stretch the 2 layers of spandex onto it. Not too bad...
Of course then I have to build the front wall framing that it will attach to... then build the panels that will be covered in velvet and fill in the area around the screen... and then add the corner bass traps... and ... and ... and ... Okay there is a lot still to do.
 
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